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MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS 

OF  THE 

PRINCIPAL  NATIONS 


THE  GLOBE. 


BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF 

PETER  PARLEY’S  TALES. 


BOSTON: 

C . n . PEIRCE  AND  G . C . R A X D , 
No.  3 Corn  hill. 

1 8 4 8. 


r 


G^£Z'^ 

ms 

— 


CONTENTS. 


PAOE. 

5 

Introduction, 

1 ^ 

America,  

Polar  Regions, 

The  Esquimaux, 

British  America, 

United  States,  20 

Mexico, 

West  Indies,  25 

South  America, 27 

2Q 

Europe, . . 

England, 

Wales,  

Scotland,  . . • • • • • .9/ 

Ireland,  .•••••••  108 

France,  .••••••» 

Spain, 1^0 

Portugal, 1^0 

The  Gypsies,  100 

Switzerland, 1®^ 

The  Tyrol, 103 

Italy, ■ • 100 

Greece, 210 

Turkey, 214 

Germany, 231 


IV 


CONTE^^TS. 


Holland,  . • . . * 

Belgium,  . • . . 

Denmark,  , • . • 

Sweeden,  .... 

Norway,  .... 

Lapland,  .... 

Russia, 

Poland,  * . . . . 

Africa, 

The  Moors  and  Arabs  of  Africa, 
The  Negroes, 

Abyssinia,  .... 

Egypt,  .... 

Asia, 

Russia  in  Asia, 

Circassia, 

Georgia,  .... 

Siberia,  .... 

Kamschatka,  .... 

Turkey, 

Arabia,  .... 

Persia, 

Afghanistan,  . . . 

Tartary,  .... 

Hindustan,  .... 

Farther  India,  . . . 

China,  .... 

J apan,  . . . • 

OCEANICA,  ..... 


. 241 

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247 
250 
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. 277 

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. 286 
. 294 

. 297 

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. 316 

. 322 

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. 347 

. 351 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  NATIONS. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  Manners  and  Customs  of  Nations  ejnbrace 
their  various  modes  of  thought,  feeling  and  action, 
more  especially  as  these  are  manifested  in  religion, 
marriage,  burials,  dress,  dwellings,  food,  drink,  amuse- 
ments, &c. 

Though  mardvind,  in  all  ages  and  countries,  possess 
the  same  elements  of  character,  these  are  modified  or 


6 


INTRODUCTION. 


controlled  by  the  potent  influences  of  climate^  religion^ 
and  government.  There  is,  doubtless,  such  a thing 
as  inherent  character  in  nations,  which  belongs  to  the 
race,  and  may  be  traced  back  as  far  as  we  can  investi- 
gate their  records.  Without  entering  into  details,  we 
may  refer  to  the  five  grand  divisions  of  the  human 
family — the  Caucasian,  or  European;  the  Mongolian, 
including  the  Chinese,  Japanese,  &c. ; the  Malaysian, 
embracing  most  of  the  South  Sea  Islanders  ; the 
African ; and  the  American,  including  our  Indians, 
Though  the  individuals  of  these  have  each  the  same 
faculties  and  features,  in  number  and  kind,  yet  their 
forms,  aptitudes,  capacities  and  powers  are  widely  dif- 
ferent. Still,  the  remark  holds  good,  that  national 
character  is  mainly  dependent  upon  the  transforming 
power  of  the  three  great  circumstances  above  men- 
tioned. 

Let  us  look  a moment  at  the  influence  of  climate. 
In  a cold  country,  like  that  of  New  England,  the  in- 
clemency of  the  season,  for  six  months  in  the  year, 
compels  the  inhabitants,  during  the  other  six,  to  make 
provision  for  this  period,  by  industry,  frugality  and 
providence.  Necessity  thus  becomes  the  parent  of 
these  qualities : and  it  may  be  observed  that  while  the 
habits  of  the  people  are  thus  drawn  into  the  paths  of 
virtue,  the  physical  system  is  braced,  the  intellectual 
faculties  stimulated,  and  the  moral  qualities  elevated 
and  ennobled. 

Let  us  look  at  this  process  a little  more  in  detail ; 
and,  in  the  first  place,  we  may  consider  the  subject  of 
dwellings.  In  a severe  climate,  these  must  be  sub- 
stantial, to  withstand  the  effects  of  hail,  frost  and  snow; 


INTRODUCTION. 


7 


and  they  must  be  tight,  to  exclude  the  blasts  of  winter. 
So  far,  stern  necessity  is  a dictator,  that  enforces  its 
demands  with  despotic  authority.  The  house,  then, 
becomes  a matter  of  the  first  importance,  and  naturally 
engrosses  a large  share  of  attention  and  care.  When 
at  last  it  is  completed,  it  becomes  the  point  around 
which  many  lively  feelings  revolve.  It  is  associated 
with  ideas  of  shelter  from  the  severities  of  winter ; of 
peace,  comfort  and  protection.  It  affords  these  bless- 
ings to  the  wife  and  the  children.  A fire  is  kindled 
upon  the  ample  hearth,  and  while  the  tempest  rages 
without,  light  and  warmth  are  dispensed  upon  the 
family  circle.  Day  by  day,  new  thoughts  and  feel- 
ings spring  up  here,  and  associate  themselves  with  the 
place  in  which  we  dwell,  until  at  last  the  full  idea  of 
home  is  formed  in  the  heart.  When  once  we  have 
bestowed  this  title  upon  our  dwelling,  it  possesses  an 
invincible  claim  upon  our  affections. 

An  object  thus  cherished  cannot'  be  permitted  to 
decay,  or  to  linger  in  a state  of  barbarism.  Year  by 
year  it  will  be  improved  ; new  comforts  and  con- 
veniences will  be  added,  as  taste  demands  or  means 
allow.  When  the  claims  of  comfort  are  satisfied,  plans 
of  embellishment  and  notions  of  luxury  succeed.  At 
first,  a rough  wall  of  plaster  was  sufficient  for  the 
sides  of  a room — for  then  the  object  was  to  exclude 
the  weather;  but  now,  these  must  be  papered,  and 
finally,  they  must  be  hung  with  pictures.  A naked 
floor  of  plank  was  sufficient  in  the  infancy  of  society, 
but  now,  carpets,  decorated  with  graceful  figures,  and 
made  pleasant  to  the  foot  and  eye  by  a soft  nap  and 
harmonious  colors,  are  indispensable.  Nor  are  these 


8 


INTRODUCTION. 


palpable  advantages  enough : the  proportions  of  the 
rooms  must  satisfy  a cultivated  taste  in  architecture, 
and  even  the  exterior  of  the  edifice  must  gratify  that 
fine  perception  of  blended  utility  and  beauty,  which 
springs  up  in  the  bosom  of  refined  society.  Such  are 
the  wonderful  results  of  climate,  operating  upon  man- 
kind ; necessity,  which  seems  a severe  task-master, 
becomes,  in  fact,  the  benignant  parent  of  a thousand 
thrifty  virtues,  as  well  as  the  source  of  those  tastes, 
powers  and  privileges,  which  belong  only  to  the  high- 
est stages  of  civilization. 

To  illustrate  more  fully  the  force  of  climate,  in 
forming  the  manners  and  customs  of  nations,  let  us 
consider  the  subject  of  dwellings  in  a tropical  region. 
Here  no  stern  winter  comes  to  wrap  the  blighted 
leaves  and  flowers  in  a winding  sheet  of  snow ; to 
lock  up  the  bosom  of  our  mother  earth,  and  freeze  the 
fountains  of  nature.  On  the  contrary,  the  fruits  and 
flowers  go  on  unchecked  in  endless  rotation.  The 
breeze  is  always  balmy,  and  one  may  safely  sleep  in 
the  open  air,  without  shelte^.  What  need  of  industry, 
forecast,  frugality  here  ? Why  build  an  expensive 
dwelling,  when  a slight  fabric  of  cane  poles,  covered 
with  leaves  of  the  palm,  are  sufficient  to  provide 
against  every  attack  of  the  season  in  this  genial  cli- 
mate ? We  can  see  that  mankind  would  naturally 
reason  thus ; and  every  one  who  has  been  in  a warm 
country  has  had  abundant  evidence  that  they  do  reason 
thus.  The  m^^ss  of  the  dwellings,  in  all  tropical  re- 
gions, are  slight  structures,  small  and  inconvenient. 
They  are  objects  of  little  cost  and  little  consideration. 
The  ideas  which  cluster  around  a northern  home,  never 


INTRODUCTION. 


9 


enter  there.  They  are  like  the  lair  of  the  wild  beast 
or  the  nest  of  the  bird,  always  temporary,  and  only 
regarded  as  a transient  necessity. 

A similar  train  of  observations  might  be  made  in 
respect  to  dress — though  it  is  proper  to  notice  a prin- 
ciple here,  that  does  not  belong  to  the  subject  just 
noticed.  It  would  s^m  that  among  all  animated  be- 
ings there  is  an  inherent  affection  founded  upon  per- 
sonal appearance^  if  we  may  be  allowed  the  term. 
The  gaudy  decoration  of  the  feathered  and  insect 
tribes ; their  diversified  forms,  attitudes  and  move- 
ments, are  doubtless,  to  some  extent  at  least,  designed 
to  attract  attention  and  excite  interest  among  the  mem- 
bers of  their  several  species.  There  is  no  more  reason 
to  doubt  that  the  modest  pea  hen  looks  with  approba- 
tion upon  the  gaudy  peagantry  of  her  lord  and  master, 
with  his  expanded  tail  glittering  in  the  sunbeam,  than 
that  the  Indian  maiden  admires  the  young  warrior  in 
his  paint,  or  that  the  city  lass  approves  the  smart  at 
tire  and  glistening  soap-locks  of  her  lover. 

This  hint  is  sufficient,  at  least,  to  indicate  that  uni 
versal  regard  to  appearance,  which  belongs  to  animat- 
ed nature,  and  more  especially  to  the  human  species. 
Everywhere,  and  in  all  stages  of  society,  personal  ap- 
pearance is  significant  of  feelings  and  character.  Looks 
are  a kind  of  language  understood  in  all  countries, 
which  appeal  with  more  or  less  .effect  to  every  bosom. 
Conscious  of  this,  personal  appearance  becomes  an  ob- 
ject of  study  in  the  very  rudest  stages^f  society.  At 
first,  tattooing  is  adopted,  as  aiding  the  expression  of 
the  features ; though  this  often  runs  at  last  into  a kind 
of  hieroglyphic  language,  to  mark  the  tribe  to  which 


10 


INTRODUCTION. 


the  wearer  belongs.  Next,  paint  is  adopted,  and 
at  last,  certain  ornaments,  as  beads,  rings,  caps 
feathers,  &c.  Thus  far  the  main  idea  is  that  of  decora- 
tion, with  a desire  to  give  a favorable  effect  to  personal 
appearance.  Among  warlike  tribes,  the  embellish- 
ments of  the  men  are  designed  to  render  their  aspect 
fearful  and  appalling,  and  they%  are  thought  to  be 
beautiful  in  proportion  as  they  appear  terrible. 

In  considering  dress,  then,  we  must  not  overlook 
this  eternal  foppery  of  our  race.  But  allowing  due 
influence  to  this,  we  may  still  repeat,  that  climate 
operates  upon  human  attire  much  as  it  does  upon 
human  dwellings.  In  a stern  wintry  zone,  a leading 
idea  in  dress  ever  must  be  protection  from  the  cold. 
Ample  garments,  under  such  circumstances,  are  indis- 
pensable. The  supply  of  these,  demands  care,  indus- 
try, providence.  Objects  obtained  at  such  cost  will 
be  prized,  and  in  proportion  as  they  are  prized,  they 
will  become  important  and  interesting.  Made  thus 
the  subject  of  thought  and  study,  they  will  gradually 
become  improved.  At  first  the  sheep-skin,  with  its 
native  covering  of  wool,  will  be  suflicient ; and  every 
man  may  then  be  his  own  tailor  : but  in  the  progress 
of  society,  the  taste  rises  step  by  step,  until  at  last  the 
wool  must  be  shorn  off  and  wrought  into  a delicate 
fabric  ,*  a glossy  nap  must  be  raised  with  infinite  art 
upon  the  outer  side;. the  garment  must  be  cut  with 
a profound  knowledge  of  human  anatomy,  and 
finally,  it  must^ossess  that  indescribable  air,  which 
bespeaks  an  appearance  of  the  most  subtle,  shifting 
and  shadowy  of  all  existences — fashion.  Such  is  the 
career  of  society,  in  respect  to  dress,  where  it  begins 


INTRODUCTION. 


11 


in  ideas  of  simple  necessity.  It  is  climate  which  is 
the  law-giver, — harsh  and  stern,  it  might  seem,  as  the 
blood-written  code  of  Draco ; but  if  we  look  at  results, 
we  shall  observe  that  they  are  truly  beneficent,  and 
afford  one,  among  the  thousand  proofs  of  benign  watch- 
fulness in  providence,  by  thus  affording  a compensa- 
tion to  the  inhabitants  of  the  frigid  regions  of  the  earth, 
in  the  energy  of  character  and  refinements  of  life, 
which  spring  up  in  the  soil  of  necessity.  If  we  look 
at  the  condition  of  society  in  hot  countries,  and  see  the 
indolence,  weakness  and  raggedness,  which  pervade 
the  mass  of  society,  we  shall,  by  strong  contrast,  be 
made  to  feel  the  force  of  these  observations.  Let  a per- 
son turn  round  an  artificial  globe,  and  mark  the  coun- 
tries which  lie  within  the  tropics,  and  observe  that 
there  is  not  one  among  them  all  where  the  spirit  of 
liberty,  the  light  of  learning,  the  love  of  industry,  the 
voice  of  piety,  or  the  arts  of  refined  life,  pervade 
society — and  he  may  then  bless  Providence  that  his  lot 
is  cast  in  the  chill  regions  of  the  Pilgrims. 

We  have  not  space  to  consider  this  subject  more  in 
detail,  and  with  these  suggestions,  we  must  leave  it  to 
the  reflections  of  the  reader,  only  remarking  that  the 
descriptions  of  manners  and  customs  in  the  following 
pages  will  afford  ample  illustrations  of  these  views. 

In  respect  to  religion,  we  may  remark  that  not  only 
the  ceremonies  of  worship,  but  those  which  belong  to 
births  and  burials,  courtship  and  marriage,  as  well  as 
many  others,  are  shaped  or  modified  its  potent  in- 
fluence. Nor  is  government  less  efficient  in  moulding 
the  manners  of  nations.  If  it  be  despotic,  it  crushes 
the  thoughts  and  feelings  into  a common  mould,  re- 


12 


INTRODTjCTION. 


presses  personal  independence,  and  diffuses  a sort  of 
uniform  livery,  mental  and  moral,  over  the  nation. 
In  such  a country,  society  is  divided  into  castes,  each 
one  of  which  is  marked  with  its  significant  badges. 
Here,  the  son  follows  the  trade  of  the  father,  and  pos- 
sessions, estates,  titles,  descend  unto  the  third  and 
fourth  generation.  Each  man  is  a tool  in  the  hand 
of  the  despot,  and  he  never  dreams  that  he  can  do 
otherwise  than  work  in  the  grooves  to  which  he  is 
fitted. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  the  government  be  free,  if 
every  man  is  allowed  to  choose  his  own  path  of  life ; 
to  think,  feel,  speak  and  act  as  he  pleases,  having  no 
check  but  the  law,  which  requires  him  to  regard  the 
rights  of  others, — it  is  clear  that  society  will  assume  a 
very  different  character  from  that  in  the  case  we  have 
just  considered. 

There  are  other  modes  in  which  the  power  of 
government  upon  national  character  is  made  manifest, 
but  we  have  not  space  to  notice  them  here.  Our 
purpose,  in  these  introductory  remarks,  is  but  to  sug- 
gest these  topics,  and  leave  the  obvious  principles  laid 
down,  to  the  application  of  the  reader,  as  he  peruses 
the  succeeding  pages. 


AMERICA. 

^ Tkis  portion  of  the  globe  embraces  about  15,000,000 
square  miles,  and  a population  of  nearly  50,000,000, 
thus  distributed : 


N.  America,  West  Indies  and  Guiana. 


Russian  America, 
Danish  America, 
British  America, 
United  States, 
Spanish  Islands, 
Hayti, 

French  America, 
Dutch  America, 
Mexico, 

Texas, 

Guatemala, 


50,000 

110,000 

2.150.000 
20,000,000 

1.050.000 
600,000 

240.000 

114.000 
8,000,000 

100.000 
2,000,000 


South  America. 


New  Grenada, 

Venezuela, 

Equator, 

Peru, 

Bolivia, 

Chili, 

La  Plata, 

Uraguay, 

Paraguay, 

Brazil, 

Independent  Indies, 


1,680,000 

900.000 

650.000 

1.700.000 

1.300.000 

1.400.000 

1.800.000 
90,000 

250.000 
5,000,000 
1,400,000 


34,314,000  16,170,000 

Of  this  number,  about  20,000,000  are  whites ; 
10,000,000  of  the  aboriginal  race  ; 9,000,000  negroes, 
and  the  remainder,  mixed  races  ; the  latter,  called 
mestizos being  chiefly  within  the  Spanish  settlements. 

The  Indians  of  the  American  Continent  were  marked 
with  shades  of  difference ; yet,  exclusive  of  the  Es- 
quimaux, who  doubtless  belong  to  the  Mongolian 
family,  and  are  of  the  same  stock  as  the  Samoides  of 
Asia,  there  is  a striking  resemblance  between  them  all. 
Within  the  British  provinces,  and  the  United  States, 
they  are  still  numerous ; but  they  generally  preserve 
their  variginal  independence,  and  savage  habits.  Some 
XIX. — 2 


14 


AMERICA. 


of  the  tribes  have  partially  adopted  agricultural  pur- 
suits. In  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  settlements, 
most  of  them  have  submitted  to  the  government,  and 
occupy  settled  abodes ; yet  they  are  generally  poor 
and  depressed.^  In  Mexico  and  Peru,  they  consti- 
tute one  half  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  negroes,  for  the  most  part,  are  in  a state  of 
slavery,  and  though  the  cheerful  temperament  of  the 
race  prevents  them  from  becoming  gloomy  and  despe- 
rate, they  are  still  reduced  to  the  lo^yest  scale  in 
respect  to  whatever  may  dignify  and  ennoble  human 
nature. 

The  whites,  in  America,  are  descended  from  Eu- 
ropeans, and  still  bear  distinct  traces  of  their  origin, 
in  person,  manners  and  customs.  In  many  cases,  es- 
pecially in  the  Spanish  settlements,  there  is  little  to 
distinguish  the  people  from  those  of  the  mother  coun- 
try. In  the  following  pages,  we  shall,  for  these  rea- 
sons, treat  briefly  of  American  manners,  that  we  may 
give  more  ample  details  respecting  the  leading  nations 
of  the  globe  which  seem  to  have  given  law  to  the  rest 
of  mankind. 

* For  a full  view  of  this  subject,  see  “ Manners,  Customs, 
and  Antiquities  of  the  American  Indians.” 


THE  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Human  society  in  this  bleak  extremity  of  the  earth, 
exists  in  the  rudest  form,  and  on  the  most  limited 
scale.  The  ungrateful  soil  refuses  to  man  any  sup- 
port ; but  the  huge  amphibia,  particularly  the  seal  and 
the  walrus,  with  which  the  shores  are  crowded,  being 
attacked  with  a skill  and  diligence  prompted  by  neces- 
sity, yield  a precarious  but  not  scanty  subsistence. 
All  the  arctic  regions  are  peopled  by  that  peculiar  race 
called  Esquimaux.  The  greater  number  of  them,  not 
belonging  to  America,  are  found  on  that  extensive 
mass  of  land  called  West  Greenland.  The  dominion 
of  this  region  is  claimed  by  Denmark,  which  maintains 
along  the  shores  a few  scattered  settlements,  occupied 
each  by  a handful  of  Danes,  who  often  intermarry 
with  the  natives.  They  employ  themselves  in  cap- 
turing the  seal,  and  in  exchanging  with  the  people 
some  European  goods  for  skins,  blubber,  feathers,  and 
the  tusks  of  the  narwhal.  A vessel  comes  annu- 
ally from  the  mother  country,  bringing  provisions  and 
the  materials  of  trade,  and  receiving  the  above  articles. 
A few  missionaries,  chiefly  Moravian,  have  employed 
their  pious  labors  in  the  conversion  of  the  natives,  but 
their  success  has  been  limited. 

In  height,  the  Greenlanders  seldom  exceed  five  feet ; 
they  have  flat  faces  with  high  cheek  bones,  and  very 


6 


GHEE  N LAND. 


full  cheeks.  From  their  manner  of  life  they  are  much 
inclined  to  fat.  Their  eyes  are  small  and  black,  but 
with  little  lustre ; and  their  hair  is  long  and  black. 
They  have  little  beard,  which  they  carefully  eradicate. 
A life  of  alternate  plenty  and  want  in  a severe  climate 
;js  so  little  favorable  to  longevity,  that  few  males  live 
to  above  fifty  years ; the  females,  who  endure  less 
hardship,  sometimes  attain  to  eighty  years. 

The  Greenlanders  generally  dress  in  the  skins  of 
seals ; their  winter  houses  are  built  of  straw  and  mud, 
near  the  sea ; in  summer  they  dwell  in  tents.  The 
pursuit  of  the  seal,  is  the  chief  pleasure  and  employ- 
ment of  the  men ; the  common  drudgery  is  performed 
by  the  women.  Their  sports  are  wrestling  and  danc- 
ing, the  latter  being  performed  with  many  ludicrous 
grimaces.  They  have  some  obscure  notions  of  a 
future  state,  and  many  superstitions,  by  means  of 
which  the  jugglers  practise  gross  impositions  upon  the 
people.  Moravian  missionaries  have  some  stations 
among  them,  and  a few  have  been  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity. There  is  no  formal  magistracy  in  Greenland, 
and  custom  furnishes  the  law  of  the  land. 

THE  ESQUIMAUX. 

This  race  of  people,  which  is  spread  over  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  northern  coast  of  America,  differs  much 
in  form,  manners  and  customs  from  any  other  tribes 
of  the  continent.  They  resemble  more  some  of  the 
natives  of  the  north  of  Europe  than  the  American 
Indians.  In  stature,  they  are  below  the  Europeans 
generally.  Those  to  the  northwest  of  Hudson’s 
Bay  are  of  a larger  size  than  those  of  Labrador,  but 


THE  ESQUIMAUX. 


17 


all  are  dwarfish.  Although  they  are  diminutive,  they 
are  well-formed  and  hardy.  Their  faces  are  round 
and  full,  their  eyes  small  and  black,  and  in  some,  the 
cheeks  were  as  prominent  as  the  nose.  Their  eyes 
are  not  horizontal,  but  the  lowest  point  is  nearest  the 
nose.  Their  teeth  are  short  and  regular,  and  in  the 
young  very  white.  Their  complexions  are  clear,  and 
their  skins  smooth.  Their  hair  is  black  and  straight ; 
the  men  wear  it  long  and  loose ; hut  the  women  who 
take  pride  in  it  separate  it  into  two  portions,  and  tie  it 
so  that  one  part  hangs  over  each  shoulder.  Some  of 
the  men  wear  the  beard  on  the  upper  lip  and  chin,  and 
cut  the  hair  on  the  crown,  like  the  tonsure  of  a monk. 
Many  of  the  females  and  children  have  pleasing  coun- 
tenances, even  after  the  strictness  of  the  European 
standard.  The  old,  however,  are  generally  exceed- 
Ingly  ugly. 

The  dress  is  of  skins,  with  little  variety  of  form. 
Along  the  shores  the  houses  are  of  driftwood ; in  the 
interior  they  are  tents  of  skins.  In  winter  they  build 
edifices  of  snow  and  ice.  Their  food  is  of  ||sh,  or  the 
flesh  of  the  seal  and  walrus.  They  often,  migrate, 
having  no  crops  or  permanent  dwellings  to  bind  them 
to  one  spot.  They  have  vigorous  dogs,  which  draw 
their  sledges  over  the  snow  with  the  speed  of  the  rein- 
deer. They  are  fond  of  dancing,  and  display  much 
affection  for  their  children.  On  the  whole,  the  Esqui 
maux  are  a gentle,  simple  and  ignorant  race,  content- 
ed, if  not  happy,  in  the  midst  of  a desolate  and  sterile 
extremity  of  the  globe. 


2* 


BRITISH  AMERICA. 

The  extensive  colonies  of  Great  Britain  in  North 
America  are  chiefly  inhabited  by  emigrants  from  Eng- 
land, Wales,  Scotland  and  Ireland,  and  their  descend- 
ants. The  Irish  brogue,  the  Scotch  bagpipe  and  the 
ruddy  English  complexion  are  common  in  every  part 
of  the  Provinces.  Society  has  little  to  distinguish  it 
that  is  not  brought  from  the  mother  country,  excepting, 
indeed,  a bitterness  of  party  spirit,  not  to  be  found 
in  Great  Britain,  and  surpassing  anything  to  be  met 
with  in  the  United  States. 

In  Canada  and  the  interior  of  Nova  Scotia  and 
New  Brunswick,  the  descendants  of  the  early  French 
settlers  are  numerous,  and  present  some  interesting 
aspects  in  their  society.  They  are  called  Habitans 
and  possess  much  of  the  courtesy  and  contentment  of 
their  nations.  They  speak  French,  though  it  has 
become  a species  of  patois.  They  enjoy  a happy 
mediocrity  of  condition,  possessing  in  abundance  the 
necessaries  of  life  and  some  of  its  luxuries.  They 
are  a contented,  gay,  harmless,  ignorant,  superstitious 
gossiping  race.  They  emigrate  reluctantly  and  rarely, 
adhering  to  their  paternal  spot,  and  dividing  it  as  long 
as  possible  among  the  members  of  their  family. 

In  religion  the  habitans  have  always  adhered  to  their 
original  Catholic  profession.  In  this  the  British  hav<r 


BHITISH  AMERICA. 


19 


fully  protected  them,  continuing  to  support  the  estab- 
lishment, and  levying  a small  land-tax  to  defray  the 
expense.  The  Canadian  clergy  are  represented  as 
exemplary  in  their  conduct,  diligent  in  the  discharge 
of  their  functions,  and  by  no  means  possessed  of  that 
violent  spirit  of  proselytism,  which  has  been  often 
ascribed  to  them.  Catholics  are  admitted  to  the  . house 
of  assembly  and  to  all  offices,  and  are  perfectly  loyal. 

The  amusements  of  Canada  are  not  various.  The 
French,  always  fond  of  dancing  and  of  social  parties, 
gave  to  the  towns  the  character  of  being  gay  and  hos- 
pitable ; but  Mr.  Lambert  says,  “ that  since  British 
residents  have  multiplied,  a spirit  of  party,  a propen- 
sity to  scandal  and  jealousy  as  to  rank,  have  consider- 
ably marred  this  harmonious  disposition.” 

The  food  of  the  rural  Canadian  is  chiefly  pork, 
boiled  in  pea  soup,  which  is  the  standing  dish  at  break- 
fast, dinner,  and  supper.  During  Lent,  fish,  vegeta- 
bles and  sour  milk,  supply  its  place.  Knives  and  forks 
are  accounted  superfluous  ; and  to  meals  which  can  be 
eaten  with  a spoon,  the  whole  party  sit  round  and 
help  themselves,  from  one  general  dish.  Tea  and 
coffee  are  only  occasional  treats.  Unfortunately  from 
its  cheering  influence,  rum  is  much  in  request,  and 
the  habitant  seldom  returns  from  market  without  rather 
an  undue  portion.  At  certain  seasons,  and  espe- 
cially after  Lent,  they  have  their  jours  gras,"^^  in 
which  fifty  or  a hundred  sit  down  to  a table  cov- 
ered with  enormous  joints,  huge  dishes  of  fruits  and 
fowl  and  vast  tureens  of  milk  and  soup.  Dancing 
concludes  the  merriment. 


UNITED  STATES. 


The  mass  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  are 
the  descendants  of  English  people  who  settled  in  the 
country  at  various  periods  within  the  last  two  cen- 
turies. There  have,  indeed,  been  settlements  formed 
here  from  France,  Sweden  and  Holland,  and  emi- 
grants from  these  countries,  as  well  as  Ireland,  Ger- 
many, and  other  portions  of  Europe,  have  been  and 
still  are  pouring  into  the  country.  Still,  the  nation  is 
essentially  English,  the  tide  of  emigration  hardly 
serving  to  tinge,  certainly  not  to  change,  the  general 
character  of  society. 

One  of  the  most  striking  peculiarities  of  this  coun- 
try, is,  that  from  Maine  to  Louisiana,  the  people  all 
talk  better  English  than  can  be  heard  from  the  mass,  in 
the  city  of  London.  For  a space  1500  miles  in  extent, 
and  among  15,000,000  of  people,  the  traveller  will 
hear  nothing  like  the  provincial  dialects  of  Lancashire, 
Northumberland,  Yorkshire,  &:c.,  which  render  it 
difficult  for  the  people  of  one  county  in  England  to 
understand  those  of  another.  There  is  not,  probably, 
on  the  globe,  an  example  of  another  nation,  so  popu- 
lous and  so  widely  extended,  that  speaks  any  language 
so  correctly,  and  with  such  uniformity,  as  do  the 
Americans  their  English  mother  tongue. 

The  freedom  from  those  distinctions  of  rank  which 


tJNITED  STATES. 


21 


strike  the  traveller  in  other  countries,  is  a peculiarity 
of  our  manners.  We  have  no  privileged  classes,  and 
none  of  the  badges  and  liveries  which  follow  in  their 
train.  All  classes  dress  alike  ; all  travel  in  the  same 
vehicles ; all  meet  on  the  same  footing  of  equality- 
before  the  law,  and,  for  the  most  part,  before  society. 
The  tendency  to  exclusiveness  is  checked  and  repress- 
ed by  public  opinion,  which  is  exercised  more  to 
secure  equality  than  even  liberty.  For  this  reason, 
American  life  appears  to  foreigners  to  be  uniform,  flat 
and  insipid ; as  in  costume,  we  are  deflcient  in  those 
picturesque  dresses,  which  please  the  eye  of  a painter, 
so  in  thought  and  feeling  we  are  regarded  as  wanting 
those  contrasts  which  give  interest  and  dramatic  effect 
to  society  in  Europe.  We  are  looked  upon  as  all  en- 
grossed in  the  single  pursuit  of  wealth,  not  allowing 
time  for  those  reflections  and  emotions  which  dignify 
and  refine  society. 

We  are,  doubtless,  a busy,  enterprising  people  ; the 
ample  fields  of  prosperity,  which  lie  open  before  us,  are 
calculated  to  urge  us  steadily  forward  in  the  race  of 
life.  It  may  be  admitted  too,  that  society  wears  an 
aspect  of  uniformity  among  us.  But  both  of  these 
points  seem  resolved  into  this — that  we  are  an  un- 
interesting people,  because  we  are  generally  well  off. 
We  can  easily  afford  to  admit  that  we  have  no  courtly 
standard  of  manners,  and  therefore  are,  perhaps,  be- 
hind some  classes,  in  European  nations,  in  artificial  re- 
finements— while,  as  an  offset,  we  may  claim  that  we 
have  few  paupers,  and  no  beggars,  except  those  that 
come  from  foreign  lands.  When  it  is  said,  however, 
that  we  are  wholly  engrossed  in  the  chase  of  money. 


B 


22 


UNITED  STATES. 


we  deny  tlie  charge,  and  challenge  the  world  to  pro- 
duce another  instance  in  history,  in  which  so  young  a 
country  has  done  so  much  for  literature,  learning,  re- 
ligion and  humanity,  as  these  United  States. 

One  of  the  first  things  that  strikes  an  American,  in 
most  foreign  countries,  is  the  constant  appearance  of 
military  force  in  town  and  country.  Such  a thing 
would  not  be  endured  here.  The  few  soldiers  with  us 
are  confined  to  regular  garrisons.  The  bristling  of  the 
bayonet,  as  a signal  to  the  people,  of  their  servitude 
and  the  necessity  of  their  obedience,  is  revolting  to 
every  sentiment  of  an  American  bosom. 

Another  peculiarity  of  our  country,  is  that  we  have 
no  national  church,  no  connection  between  church  and 
state.  Every  individual  supports  that  worship  which 
he  prefers.  It  might  have  been  supposed,  that  under 
such  a system,  religion  would  pass  into  neglect,  but 
there  is,  probably,  no  part  of  the  world  where  religion 
is  better  supported,  and  where  it  exercises  a deeper  in- 
flupnce  upon  society. 

In  dress,  the  people  follow  the  fashions  of  Europe. 
Paris  gives  the  law  in  millinery  and  mantua- 
making,  and  the  tailors  of  London  are  dictators  as  to 
male  attire.  We  have  no  provincial  costumes;  law- 
yers and  judges  wear  neither  wigs  nor  gowns.  The 
Catholic  and  Episcopal  clergymen  dress  as  in  Europe, 
but  those  of  other  sects  wear  a common  black  citizen’s 
dress,  and  sometimes  a black  gown  in  the  pulpit. 

Qur  houses  are  chiefly  of  wood,  and  though  the 
general  arrangement  is  the  same  as  in  the  houses  of 
England,  yet  the  aspect  is  very  different.  Mr.  Dick- 
ens, accustomed  to  the  heavy  stone  architecture  and 


UNITED  STATES. 


23 


sombre  hues  of  the  houses  in  that  country,  was  very 
much  struck  with  the  sharp  outlines  and  white  paint, 
of  our  New  England  dwellings. 

The  American  people  are  generally  admitted  by 
foreigners  to  display  great  energy  and  enterprise,  and 
a remarkable  power  of  mechanical  invention.  They 
are,  doubtless,  what  might  be  expected  of  an  Anglo- 
Saxon  race,  placed  in  circumstances  to  call  every 
thrifty  faculty  into  full  exercise.  “ The  United 
States,”  says  an  able  English  writer,  “ was  colonized  a 
century  later  than  Spanish  America ; but  their  brilliant 
and  rapid  progress  shows,  in  a striking  light,  how 
much  more  the  prosperity  of  nations  depends  on  moral 
than  on  physical  advantages.  The  North  Americans 
had  no  gold  mines,  and  a territory  of  only  indifferent 
fertility,  covered  with  impenetrable  woods ; but  they 
brought  with  them  intelligence,  industry,  a love  of 
freedom,  habits  of  order,  and  a pure  and  severe  mo- 
rality. Armed  with  these  gifts  of  the  soul,  they  have 
converted  the  wilderness  into  a land  teeming  with  life 
and  smiling  with  plenty ; and  they  have  built  up  a 
social  system  so  preeminently  calculated  to  promote 
the  happiness  and  moral  improvement  of  mankind, 
that  it  has  become,  truly,  the  envy  of  nations.” 


MEXICO. 


In  this  republic  there  are  four  distinct  classes,  viz. : 
the  native  Spaniards,  called  Chapetones ; Spaniards 
born  in  America,  called  Creoles ; mixed  races,  called 
Mestizos  ; and  the  Indians. 

The  greater  part  of  the  first  class  have  been  ex- 
pelled ; and  the  mestizos  are  chiefly  in  the  lower  sta- 
tions of  life.  The  Indians  constitute  nearly  one  half 
the  population,  and  excepting  a few  wild  and  savage 
tribes  to  the  north,  they  have  submitted  to  the  govern- 
ment, have  adopted  the  habits  of  civilized  life,  and 
are  a poor,  quiet  and  inoffensive  race. 

The  Creoles,  or  Americans,  as  they  choose  to  call 
themselves,  form  a privileged  class  in  comparison  with 
the  other  inhabitants.  Retaining  the  general  manners 
and  customs  of  their  Spanish  ancestors,  they  are  fond 
of  splendor,  and  delight  in  riding  horses  richly  capar- 
isoned. Many  of  them,  descended  from  the  first 
conquerors,  or  enriched  by  speculation  in  the  mines, 
enjoy  fortunes  almost  more  than  princely.  Two  or 
three  hundred  thousand  dollars  a year  is  not  an  un- 
common income  for  many  of  these  families.  These 
immense  fortunes,  however,  are  often  dissipated  in 
mining  speculations,  to  which  the  owners  are  tempted 
by  one  successful  adventure,  and  in  which  they  often 
squander  all  that  they  have  gained.  An  ostentatious 
mode  of  living,  a rage  for  gaming  and  an  ill-arranged 
domestic  economy,  are  also  causes  which  involve  the 
\^richest  families  in  embarrassment.  ] 


WEST  INDIES. 


These  islands,  situated  within  the  tropics,  enjoy  a 
delicious  climate,  and  abound  in  the  richest  produc- 
tions of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  The  original  inhabit- 
ants— the  first  possessors  of  the  soil,  are  swept  away, 
and  their  sunny  homes  are  parcelled  out  among 
various  European  nations,  who  hold  them  as  colonies. 

Cuba,  one  of  the  finest  islands  on  the  face  of  the 
globe^  has  continued  in  the  hands  of  Spain  since  the 
days  of  Columbus.  Its  population  is  800,000,  three 
eighths  of  which  are  whites,  three  eighths  slaves,  and 
the  remainder  free  blacks  and  mulattoes.  Among  the 
white  population,  the  manners  of  Spain,  modified  by 
condition  and  climate,  prevail.  Hospitality  is  a prom- 
inent virtue  with  the  planters,  and  a general  character 
of  luxury  and  indolence  pervades  society.  The  Cath- 
olic religion  is  predominant,  and  displays  its  customary 
pageantry.  The  slaves  are  severely  tasked,  uned- 
ucated and  degraded.  The  cock-pit  is  common  in 
Cuba,  and  the  priest  may  be  often  seen  there  with  his 
bantam.  Gambling  is  a prevalent  vice. 

Jamaica  is  also  a fine  island,  having  a population  of 
380,000,  and  belonging  to  the  British.  About  40,000 
are  whites,  the  remainder  are  blacks  and  mulattoes. 
The  slaves  have  been  recently  emancipated,  and,  ac- 
cording to  the  testimony  of  numerous  individuals,  the 

XIX.— 3 


26 


WEST  INDIES. 


result  is  likely  to  prove  favorable  to  the  planters  as 
well  as  the  negroes.  English  manners  prevail  among 
the  settlers,  though  the  reserve  and  haughtiness  of 
John  Bull  are  exchanged  for  the  hospitality  and  amen- 
ity which  spring  from  a luxurious  climate  and  the 
isolation  of  an  insular  position. 

Hayti,  formerly  called  St.  Domingo,  has  a popula- 
tion of  800,000,  most  of  whom  are  blacks  and  mulat- 
toes.  After  a series  of  convulsions  from  1791  to  1825, 
the  independence  of  the  country  was  acknowledged 
by  France,  in  consideration  of  30,000,000  of  dollars,  to 
be  paid  by  instalments.  Since  the  latter  period,  the 
country  has  possessed  a regular  government  of  a re- 
publican form.  Thus  Hayti  presents  the  only  exam- 
ple of  an  independent  negro  nation  in  the  western 
hemisphere.  The  hopes  of  the  friends  of  Hayti  have 
not  been  realized  under  its  state  of  emancipation.  The 
people  are  indolent,  and  the  products  of  their  fertile 
island  have  dwindled  to  a shadow  of  what  they  once 
were.  It  is  said,  however,  that  very  recently  the 
industry  of  the  people  has  revived,  and  thus  the  pros- 
pects of  the  country  are  improving.  The  state  of 
morals  is  low ; the  government  has  slid  into  a kind  of 
practical  despotism  ; and  the  religion,  which  is  Catho- 
lic, is  slightly  regarded. 

It  may  be  remarked,  that  the  benefits  of  independ- 
ence have  hardly  been  more  conspicuous  in  Mexico 
and  Buenos  Ayres  than  in  Hayti.  We  may  therefore 
look  to  other  sources  than  the  negro  character  of  the 
people  for  the  partial  success  of  their  institutions. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


Tins  portion  of  the  Western  Continent,  embracing 
about  seven  million  square  miles,  and  about  fifteen 
millions  of  inhabitants,  is  now  parcelled  out  among 
independent  nations,  with  the  exception  of  Guiana, 
which  is  divided  between  Holland,  France  and  Eng- 
land. Over  such  an  immense  extent  of  surface,  there 
must  be  ^me  diversity  of  manners,  yet  the  whole 
may  be  grouped  under  two  divisions. 

Peru,  Bolivia,  Chili,  Buenos  Ayres,  and  the  three 
states  of  Colombia  were  Spanish  colonies  for  three 
centuries.  The  white  population  was  derived  from 
Spain,  and  here  Spanish  manners,  in  dress,  religion, 
arts,  tastes  and  opinions,  became  established.  These 
may  be  still  found  in  Caraccas,  Quito,  Lima,  Chuqui- 
saca,  Valparaiso,  and  Buenos  Ayres.  In  all  these  places 
may  be  seen  cathedrals,  monks,  crosses,  pictures  of  the 
virgin,  and  religious  processions.  The  Spanish  cos- 
tume is  also  common  with  both  men  and  women. 
The  stateliness  of  Castilian  manners  is,  however, 
somewhat  relaxed,  and  commercial  habits  are  tending 
to  introduce  the  arts  and  fashions  of  the  great  centres 
of  European  and  American  civilizatidn.  The  tone  of 
morals  is  by  no  means  elevated,  and  the  general  as- 
pect of  society  presents  little  that  inspires  respect. 
The  Indians,  who  constitute  'about  one  half  the  pop- 


28 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


ulation,  are  even  more  depressed  and  degraded  than 
in  Mexico. 

The  other  division  of  South  America  embraces  the 
extensive  and  fertile  empire  of  Brazil ; a portion  of 
the  world  peculiarly  favored  by  its  delicious  climate 
and  its  varied  productions.  But  the  state  of  society 
furnishes  a sad  contrast  to  these  bounties  of  nature. 
The  population  is  about  5,000,000,  one  fourth  of  whom 
are  whites,  and  the  remainder  Indians  and  negroes. 
Of  the  latter,  a large  portion  are  slaves,  and  in  no 
country  does  slavery  possess  a more  revolting  aspect 
than  in  Brazil.  The  country  is  now  independent, 
being  governed  by  an  emperor,  who  exercises  almost 
despotic  sway.  The  religion  is  Catholic,  and  its  im- 
posing ceremonials  furnish  a large  part  of  the  amuse- 
ments of  the  people.  In  the  cities,  the  manners  of 
Lisbon  still  linger  in  respect  to  costume  and  the  gen- 
eral intercourse  of  society,  though  these  are  yielding 
to  the  general  customs  of  Europe,  which  are  every- 
where tending  to  an  equilibrium.  In  morals  and  in- 
telligence the  Brazilians  stand  even  below  the  other 
nations  of  South  America.  The  colored  population 
is  in  a state  of  extreme  degradation ; many  of  the  In- 
dians still  preserve  their  independence,  while  those 
who  submit  to  the  government  and  are  regarded  as 
within  the  pale  of  religion  and  civilization,  appear  to 
have  derived  little  advantage  from  this  condition, — for 
while  they  have  lost  the  vigor  and  independence  of 
savages,  they  have  adopted  the  degrading  vices  and 
superstitions  of  artificial  society. 


EUROPE. 


This  division  of  the  world,  though  smaller  in  extent 
than  either  of  the  other  four,  must  still  be  regarded  as 
taking  the  lead  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  in  literature 
and  knowledge.  Though  it  was  settled  long  after 
Asia ; though  it  is  less  extensive,  less  populous,  and. 
less  fertile  than  that  cradle  of  the  human  family,  still 
it  has  greatly  outstripped  it  in  all  that  belongs  to  civi- 
lization. 

The  present  population  of  Europe  is  about  250,000,- 
000.  The  principal  cities  are  London,  Paris,  Vienna, 
Berlin,  St.  Petersburg,  Kome  and  Constantinople. 

The  means  of  communication  throughout  all  parts 
of  Europe  are  so  easy  and  abundant,  that  the  manners 
of  the  people  are  becoming  more  and  more  assimilat- 
ed. The  fashions  of  London  and  Paris,  in  respect  to 
dress,  take  the  lead  in  all  the  commercial  towns,  ex- 
cept Constantinople.  In  general,  the  dress  of  the  men 
in  Europe  is  close,  strongly  contrasting  with  the  loose 
and  flowing  costumes  of  Asia^.  The  latter  are  more 
picturesque  than  the  former,  and  are  suited  to  an  in- 
dolent and  luxurious  people,  while  the  former  are 
adapted  to  the  active  business  habits  of  Europe. 
Nothing  more  incongruous  could  he  imagined  than 
the  full  dress  of  a Turk  upon  a brisk  shopkeeper  of 
London  or  Paris. 


3* 


80 


EUROPE. 


The  leading  nations  of  Europe,  with  their  popula- 
tion, are  exhibited  in  the  following  table. 


Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  - 

26,863,957 

France,  - - - - 

- 

34,000,000 

Spain,  - - - - 

12,000,000 

Portugal,  - - - - 

3,400,000 

Italy,  - - - . 

21,800,000 

Greece,  - - . - 

180,000 

Turkey,  - - - - 

10,000,000 

Switzerland,  - - - 

2,200,000 

Austria,  - - - - 

35,000,000 

Germany,  - - - 

38,204,000 

Prussia,  - - - - 

14,500,000 

Holland,  - - - - 

2,545,000 

Belgium,  - - - - 

4,230,000 

Denmark,  - - - 

Norway  and  Sweden, 

2,150,000 

4,300,000 

Russia,  - - - - 

54,000,000 

265,372,957 

The  energy  of  European  nations  has  been  remark- 
ably displayed  within  the  present  century,  and  pro- 
mises speedily  to  change  the  aspect  of  the  other  por- 
tions of  the  eastern  continent.  Africa  is  occupied  at 
numerous  maritime  points  by  English,  French  and 
Portuguese  colonies,  and  the  light  of  civilization  is 
rapidly  encroaching  upon  the  gloom  of  barbarism  that 
has  shrouded  the  country  for  ages.  The  exclusive 
systems  of  Asia  are  giving  way  before  the  arts  and 
arms  of  Great  Britain  and  Russia,  and  even  China, 
with  its  340,000,000  of  people,  has,  in  our  own  day, 
been  made  accessible  to  the  civilized  world.  The 
changes  that  will  follow,  before  the  close  of  the  pre- 
sent century,  will  probably  be  in  the  highest  degree 
interesting  and  important  to  the  world  at  large. 


ENGLAND. 

In  external  appearance,  the  English  resemble  the 
Americans.  Their  general  mode  of  dress  is  what  we 
adopt  in  the  United  States,  though  some  of  the  ex- 
tremes of  English  costume  do  not  cross  the  Atlantic. 
In  high  life  the  fashions  are  constantly  changing, 
though  more  in  details  than  in  general  forms.  The 
varieties  of  English  dress  seem  to  have  been  exhaust- 
ed, and  there  is  nothing  new  in  it  that  has  not  once 
been  old.  The  same  garments  have  been  used  at 
every  era  for  a long  period,  and  the  mutations  operate 
chiefly  on  the  forms  of  these. 

The  greatest  change  in  English  fashions  was  ex- 
perienced during  the  period  of  the  French  revolution. 
In  the  ten  years  from  1790  to  1800,  a more  complete 
alteration  was  effected  in  costume  by  the  spontaneous 
action  of  the  people  than  had  taken  place  at  any  pre- 
vious period  during  a century.  This  change  began 
in  France,  and  arose  partly  from  a desire  to  show  a 
contempt  for  old  court  usages,  and  partly  from  an 
imitation  of  certain  classes  in  England,  whose  attire 
the  French  mistook  for  that  of  the  nation  generally. 
This  new  French  costume  was  introduced  by  the  party 
who  were  styled  Sans  Culottes,  It  consisted  of  a 
round  hat,  a short  coat,  a light  waistcoa^  and  pan- 
taloons \ a handkerchief  was  tied  loosely  round  the 


32 


ENGLAND. 


neck,  with  the  ends  long  and  hanging  down,  and 
showing  the  shirt-collar  above  ; the  hair  was  cut  short, 
without  powder  ; shoe-buckles  were  discarded  for 
leather  strings.  “ Ah,  Monsieur  ! all  is  lost ! ” ex- 
claimed one  of  the  old  regime,  when  the  minister, 
Roland,  appeared  at  court  in  shoe-strings. 

The  comparatively  simple  dress  of  the  Sans  Culottes 
found  many  admirers  in  England,  and  soon  became 
common  among  young  men  there.  The  change  from 
antique  fashions  was  also  greatly  facilitated  by  the  im- 
position of  a tax  upon  hair-powder,  which,  from  that 
time,  fell  into  disuse.  ) Tight  pantaloons  remained  in 
pretty  common  use  till  about  1814,  when  trousers, 
already  introduced  into  the  army,  became  fashionable. 
The  general  use  of  white  neckcloths  continued  till  the 
reign  of  George  the  Fourth,  when  that  monarch’s 
taste  for  wearing  a black  silk  kerchief  or  stock,  and 
also  the  use  of  black  stocks  in  the  army,  caused  a .very 
quick  abandonment  of  the  white  neckcloth  for  the 
black  one  ; this  happened  about  the  year  1825.  The 
disbanding  of  the  army  after  the  peace  of  1815,  led  to 
various  other  changes.  While  pantaloons  were  the 
fashionable  dress,  it  was  customary  to  wear  Hessian 
boots  : these,  which  had  originated  among  the  Hessian 
troops,  were  without  tops,  and  were  worn  with  small 
silk  tassels  dangling  from  a cut  in  front,  and  being 
drawn  over  the  lower  part  of  the  pantaloons,  they  had 
a neat  appearance.  When  trousers  were  introduced, 
from  the  practice  of  the  army,  the  use  of  Welling- 
ton boots,  to  go  beneath  them,  also  became  common. 
About  the  same  time  the  surtout  was  also  introduced. 
When  the  collarless  and  broad-skirted  coat  disappeared 


t' 


English  farm-house* 


34 


ENGLAND. 


at  the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  the 
fashion  of  coats  changed  in  various  ways  till  the 
above-mentioned  period,  when  the  loose  frock  coat  or 
surtout  was  added  to  the  list  of  garments.  The  sack^ 
now  in  vogue  as  an  outside  garment,  has  been  recently 
Introduced. 

A man  of  fashion  in  England  is  compelled  to  devote 
a great  portion  of  his  time  to  putting  on  and  off  his 
clothes.  Putting  on  the  cravat,  when  cravats  are  in 
vogue,  is  an  affair  of  great  consequence.  When  Beau 
Brummell’s  valet  came  down  stairs  with  twenty  or 
thirty  rumpled  cravats  in  his  hand,  and  was  asked 
what  he  had  got  there,  he  replied,  “ These  are  our 
failures,'''^  A well-dressed  man,  we  are  told,  requires 
per  week  twenty  shirts,  twenty-four  pocket  handker- 
chiefs, nine  or  ten  pairs  of  summer  trousers,  a dozen 
waistcoats,  and  neck-kerchiefs  and  stockings  without 
number.  He  cannot  get  on  without  dressing  three 
or  four  times  a day.  ) 1st.  At  breakfast  his  toilette  is  a 
chintz  dressing-gown  and  Turkish  slippers.  2d. 
Morning  riding-dress  : a frock  coat,  hoots  and  spurs. 
3d.  Dinner  dress : dress  coat  and  shoes.  4th.  Ball 
dress.  England  is  the  paradise  of  tailors  : one  of  the 
fashionables  of  London  has  been  known  to  wear  three 
new  suits  every  day  for  years.  At  his  death,  his  old 
clothes  sold  at  auction  for  fifteen  thousand  pounds  ! 

js  proper  to  remark,  however,  that  neatness  is  the 
most  striking  feature  of  English  dress.  Men  of  high 
rank  aremsually  fastidiously  neat  and  simple  in  their 
common  attire.  A diamond  of  ‘‘  purest  ray  serene  ” 
glitters  upon  the  bosom,  and  a costly  stone  upon  the 
finger ; but  a display  of  gold  chains,  satin  neckcloths, 


36 


ENGLAND. 


velvet  collars  and  facings,  is  esteemed  vulgar.  The 
most  rehned  taste  rejects  everything  that  appears  to 
court  admiration. 

As  to  the  dress  of  ladies,  we  can  hardly  venture  to 
speak.  To  paint  the  rainbow,  is  a task  which  demands 
a livelier  pencil  than  ours — for  while  we  are  catching 
the  form,  the  hues  change,  or  perhaps  have  vanished 
from  the  view.  It  may  be  said,  in  general,  however, 
that  the  ladies  of  England  dress  nearly  in  the  fashion 
of  ours.  Both  imitate  the  French,  which  is  the  Mecca 
of  milliners  and  mantuamakers  throughout  Christen- 
dom. Yet  the  English  ladies  consult  comfort  and 
health,  in  their  dress,  more  than  ours.  They  wear 
thick  shoes,  and  comfortable  garments,  when  the 
season  demands  it,  and  do  not  sacrifice  health  and  life, 
to  the  Vain  desire  of  showing  a pretty  foot  in  a pretty 
slipper,  even  though  it  be  December.  If  the  beauty  of 
the  English  women  is  of  a more  masculine  character 
than  that  of  ours,  they  at  least  show  a sound  and 
wise  regard  for  the  other  sex  in  preserving  it  as  long 
as  they  can. 

In  England,  as  well  as  most  other  countries  in  Eu- 
rope, a particular  costume  is  appropriated  to  some  of 
the  professions.  The  gown  is  common  in  all  pulpits, 
even  out  of  the  establishment.  A hat  turned  up  behind, 
is  the  mark  of  a bishop.  The  scholars  at  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  wear  a gown,  and  cap  with  a square  top. 
Judges  and  lawyers  wear  gowns  and  wigs.  The  phy- 
sicians have  no  peculiar  costume.  When  sitting  in  the 
House  of  Lords,  the  bishops  appear  in  white  surplices. 

In  their  habits  and  modes  of  life,  the  English  may 
be  called  a domestic  people,  especially  when  compared 


ENGLAND. 


37 


with  the  French.  In  regard  to  food,  their  taste  is 
inclined  to  that  which  is  solid  and  substantial.  Roast 
beef,  or  other  viands,  cooked  in  the  plainest  manner, 
accord  with  their  unsophisticated  taste,  and  the  repast 
is  despatched  more  rapidly  than  on  the  continent, 
though  not  with  the  ravenous  haste  which  is  common 
in  the  United  States.  The  English  are  fond  of  dining 
together  in  large  companies  on  any  public  occasion 
which  can  afford  a plausible  pretext  for  such  an  enter- 
tainment. A great  dinner,  followed  by  a long  train 
of  toasts,  forms  the  bond  of  union  to  all  political  par- 
ties, and  to  all  patriotic,  benevolent,  and  even  religious 
associations.  In  the  metropolis,  various  anniversaries 
are  celebrated  by  persons  who  are  natives  of  the  same 
county,  or  have  been  educated  at  the  same  university. 
It  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  for  the  stewards  or  com- 
mittees of  these  meetings  to  dine  together  on  some  day 
previous  to  the  dinner,  for  the  purpose  of  ordering  it, 
and  again  on  some  day  after  it,  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
charging the  bill.  In  common  with  other  northern 
nations,  the  English  retain  a taste  for  fermented  and 
distilled  liquors,  which,  however,  has  been  in  a great 
measure  corrected  and  subdued  in  the  higher  and 
middle  classes.  Beer  and  porter  constitute  the  staple 
drink  of  the  great  body  of  the  people ; but  vast  quan- 
tities of  gin  are  also  consumed  by  the  lower  orders, 
especially  in  the  metropolis,  where  it  exercises  a most 
pernicious  effect  upon  their  morals,  the  government 
making  no  exertion  to  check  the  consumption  of  it,  as 
the  excise  upon  this  article  constitutes  a material  item 
in  the  revenue.  Among  the  middle  classes,  the  wines 
of  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Madeira,  are  in  general  use  ; 
c XIX. — 4 


38 


ENGLAND. 


but  the  cellars  of  the  rich  are  stored  with  the  choicest 
products  of  the  French  vineyards. 

The  dinner  hour  is  usually  five ; the  laboring  part 
of  the  community  dine  at  one,  the  highest  rank  at 
seven  or  eight,  or  even  nine.  The  English  eat  more 
meat  than  the  French,  but  their  tables  are  not  heaped 
with  the  immense  loads  common  at  American  dinners. 
The  roast  beef  of  Old  England  is  much  superior  to 
that  of  the  continent,  and  is  also  better  than  the  ave- 
rage of  beef  in  the  United  States,  but  the  best  beef  in 
England  is  in  no  respect  superior,  if  it  be  indeed  quite 
equal,  to  that  of  our  own  country.  None  but  those  in 
comparatively  easy  circumstances  can  enjoy  much  of 
this  luxury  in  England.  The  poorest  of  the  laborers 
and  manufacturers  cannot  have  in  a week  as  much 
animal  food  as  the  American  laborer  consumes  in  a 
day.  With  the  rich,  of  course,  the  case  is  different. 
All  parts  of  the  globe  are  ransacked  for  an  English- 
man’s table.  Turtle  are  brought  alive  from  the  West 
Indies,  and  their  arrival  is  of  so  much  consequence, 
that  notices  are  immediately  sent  to  the  newspapers, 
particularly  stating  that  they  are  “ in  fine  order  and 
lively  !”  India  supplies  sauces  and  curry  powder ; they 
have  hams  from  Portugal,  Westphalia,  and  the  United 
States  ; reindeer’s  tongues  from  Lapland,  caviare  from 
Eussia,  sausages  from  Bologna,  macaroni  from  Na- 
ples, and  cheese  from  Parma.  Fish  come  packed  in  ice 
from  Scotland  for  the  London  market,  and  the  epicures 
will  eat  no  mutton  but  what  is  killed  in  Wales. 

The  English  inns  afford  the  most  perfect  exhibition 
of  the  manners  of  the  middle  classes.  Every  man 
shows  himself. here  as  he  is,  and  seems  to  feel  himself 
alone.  The  English  traveller  usually  passes  his  time, 


ENGLAND. 


39 


when  not  out  of  doors,  in  what  is  called  the  coffee-room. 
In  the  evening  the  room  is  lighted  with  lamps ; can- 
dles are  carried,  if  ordered,  to  the  gentlemen  who  sit 
at  separate  little  tables,  and  it  is  amusing  to  observe 
the  perfect  uniformity  with  which  they  all  behave,  as  if 
they  were  machines  out  of  one  workshop.  This  is  par- 
ticularly to  be  seen  in  their  eating : though  placed  at 
separate  tables,  and  no  individual  taking  the  slightest 
notice  of  any  other,  they  all  seem  to  have  exactly  the 
same  usages  and  the  same  gastronomic  tastes.  A 
large  joint  of  meat  is  sometimes  carried  from  one  to 
another,  and  each  cuts  off  what  he  likes ; this  is 
accompanied  by  potatoes  and  other  vegetables  : sauces 
are  placed  on  every  table,  and  beer  is  poured  out,  and 
here  commonly  ends  the  dinner.  Only  the  luxurious 
eat  fish  before  meat ; and  soup  is  not  to  be  had  unless 
bespoken  beforehand. 

Now  follows  the  second  stage.  The  table-cloth  is 
removed,  a clean  plate,  knife  and  fork  are  laid ; wine 
and  a wine  glass,  a few  wretched  apples  or  pears,  with 
hard  biscuits,  are  brought  on  ; and  now  the  diner  seems 
to  enjoy  tranquillity  and  comfort.  His  countenance 
assumes  a placid  expression ; apparently  sunk  in  pro- 
found meditation,  leaning  back  in  his  chair  and  look- 
ing fixedly  straight  before  him,  he  suffers  a sip  of  wine 
to  glide  down  his  throat  from  time  to  time,  only  break- 
ing the  death-like  silence  by  now  and  then  laboriously 
crunching  his  stony  biscuit.  When  the  wine  is 
finished,  succeeds  stage  the  third : that  of  digestion. 
All  motion  now  ceases  ; his  appetite  being  satisfied, 
he  falls  into  a sort  of  magnetic  sleep  with  his  eyes 
open.  After  this  has  lasted  for  half  an  hour  or  an 


40 


ENGLAND. 


hour,  all  at  once  it  ceases  : he  cries  out,  as  if  under 
the  influence  of  some  sudden  passion,  “ Waiter,  my 
slippers  ! ” and,  seizing  a candle,  walks  off  gravely  to 
his  chamber,  to  meet  his  slippers  and  repose.  With 
the  exception  of  the  last  item,  pretty  nearly  the  same 
scene  is  acted  over  in  the  first  clubs  of  the  metropolis. 
An  Englishman  shows  more  animation  at  breakfast 
than  at  dinner ; this  meal  consists  of  tea,  bread  and 
butter,  eggs  and  cold  meat.  Custom  enjoins  it  upon 
him  to  read  the  newspaper  at  breakfast,  though  she 
rigidly  prohibits  it  at  dinner,  and  at  every  sip  of  his 
tea  he  turns  over  the  Times  or  the  Morning  Chronicle. 
The  breakfast  sometimes  lasts  for  hours,  and  the  sixth 
or  seventh  cup  is  drank  cold. 

An  English  traveller  is  excusable  for  complaining 
of  the  inconveniences  of  travelling  in  other  countries, 
and  he  should  be  allowed  some  license  in  criticizing 
the  accommodations  for  travellers  in  the  United  States. 
In  England,  the  roads  are  excellent,  the  coaches  easy, 
and  the  speed  great — not  only  on  the  railroads,  by 
which  almost  every  part  of  the  country  is  now  inter- 
sected, but  on  the  highways  and  turnpike  roads.  In 
particular,  the  inns  are  much  superior  to  those  of  any 
other  country the  houses  are  commodious,  the  furni- 
ture is  good,  the  servants  are  prompt  and  attentive,  and 
the  host  civil  and  obliging.  All  this  is  crowned  with 
the  neatness  and  propriety  of  arrangement  that  distin- 
guish the  private  dwellings  of  the  English.  As  all 
these  conveniences  are  for  hire,  it  is  but  natural  that 
the  traveller  whose  appearance  denotes  most  wealth 
should  receive  the  greatest  attention.  The  passenger 
who  arrives  in  a stage-coach  will  not  encounter  such 


ENGLAND. 


11 


a rush  of  servants  to  welcome  his  arrival  as  he  who 
comes  in  a post-chaise,  and  the  pedestrian  may  often 
be  left  to  wait  upon  himself,  if  he  is  even  so  fortunate 
as  to  be  admitted  to  the  house.  The  English  travel 
much,  and  the  life  of  the  higher  classes  is  almost 
migratory,  being  passed  between  London,  the  country, 
the  watering  places,  and  the  continent.  There  are 
even  among  the  yeomanry  few  of  any  substance  who 
have  not  been  at  London. 

The  English  servants  are  excellent,  both  in  the  inns 
and  elsewhere,  and  they  are  easily  obtained,  as  it  is 
considered  no  discredit  to  serve.  At  the  inns  the 
servants  have  no  wages,  and  depend  for  support  on  the 
liberality  of  the  guests.  Of  course  they  are  obsequious 
and  obliging ; they  are  always  well  dressed,  and  many 
of  them  are  coxcombs.  Some  of  them  give  a premium 
for  their  places  instead  of  receiving  a salary  for  their 
services.  On  the  arrival  of  a coach  there  is  a great 
rush  of  servants  to  assist  the  passengers  in  alighting. 
Two  footmen  stand  at  the  door  and  proffer  an  elbow  ; 
the  chambermaid  comes  to  show  the  rooms,  and  even 
“ Boots,”  who  gets  his  title  from  what  he  brushes,  shares 
in  the  hospitable  impulse.  On  the  departure,  the  ser- 
vants range  themselves  in  a line,  and  if  any  guest 
forgets  a douceur,  he  is  gently  requested  to  “ remember 
the  chambermaid,  Boots,  &;c.”  It  may  be  observed 
that  every  chambermaid  is  called  Sally.  Every  one 
remembers  Dr.  Johnson’s  panegyric  of  the  English 
inns,  where  “ the  more  trouble  you  give,  the  more 
welcome  you  are.”  To  this  we  may  add  the  com- 
mendation of  Shenstone,  which  is  so  often  found 
scribbled  upon  the  wainscot  and  windows — 

4^ 


42 


ENGLAND. 


Whoe’er  has  travelled  life’s  dull  round; 

Whate’er  his  stages  may  have  been, 

Must  sigh  to  think  he  still  has  found 
His  warmest  welcome  at  an  inn. 

The  more  numerous  class  of  travellers,  however, 
who  cannot  afford  the  luxuries  of  the  inns,  resort  to 
the  alehouses ; and  these  are  often  neat  and  commodi- 
ous. A traveller  who  desires  to  see  the  unsophisti- 
cated English  character,  will  find  it  perhaps  more  at 
the  alehouse  than  at  the  inns. 

i In  the  establishment  of  an  English  gentleman,  the 
men-servants  are  divided  into  two  distinct  classes : 
servants  in  livery,  and  servants  out  of  livery.  The 
servants  who  wear  no  livery,  and  who  are  considered 
superior  to  the  others,  are  the  butler,  the  under-butler, 
and  the  gentleman’s  valet.  The  livery  servants  are 
the  coachman,  the  footman,  and  the  grooms.  To  all 
families  of  any  consequence,  a certain  livery  belongs. 

A livery  is  a coat  and  small-clothes  of  a particular 
color  and  stuff.  The  coat  is  of  fine  cloth,  and  the 
small-clothes  of  plush.  Some  wear  a silyer  or  gold 
epaulette  on  the  left  shoulder,  or  an  aiguillette,  which 
is  a long  silver  or  gold  cord  depending  from  the  shoul- 
ders, and  looped  up  with  a gold  or  silver  pin  ; also  a 
hat  with  a gold  or  silver  band.  When  a family  is  in 
mourning,  the  footmen  wear  black  livery  with  a black 
epaulette  or  aiguillette  on  the  shoulder.  If  the  master 
of  the  house  is  a military  man,  or  the  lord  lieutenant 
of  a county,  his  footmen  wear  black  cockades  in  their 
hats.  There  is  one  livery  which  may  be  adopted  by 
any  family,  as  belonging  to  no  peculiar  one ; this  is  a 
white  cloth  coat  and  scarlet  plush  small-clothes.  Many 


ENGLAND. 


43 


families  who  dislike  the  color  of  their  own  liveries, 
dress  their  servants  in  this.  The  livery  servants  leave 
their  liveries  when  they  leave  their  places.  The  foot- 
men must  wear  powder  ; so  generally  does  the  butler. 

The  king’s  livery  is  crimson  and  gold  ; so  also  is 
that  of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  The  Fife  livery  is 
green  and  crimson  with  gold  lace  ; that  of  the  Earl  of 
Weymess,  dark  blue  and  yellow  with  a profusion  of 
silver.  Pale  blue  and  silver  is  the  livery  of  several 
noble  families.  The  coats  are  lined  and  faced  with 
silk  the  color  of  the  small-clothes.  The  dress  of  the 
grooms  is  a frock  coat,  top  boots,  and  white  corduroy 
small-clothes.  When  they  ride  as  postilions  their 
dress  is  altered  from  a frock  coat  to  a colored  jacket 
agreeing  with  the  livery,  and  the  hat  is  changed  to  a 
black  velvet  cap,  called  a jockey  cap.  The  under 
grooms,  who  are  usually  very  small,  light  boys,  are 
those  chosen  as  postilions.  The  coachman  wears  the 
same  livery  as  the  footman,  but  is  distinguished  by  his 
frock  coat.  To  this  is  added,  when  he  mounts  the 
box,  a bag  wig  powdered  and  curled  like  that  of  a 
judge,  to  increase  his  dignified  appearance  ; also  a 
cloth  great  coat  with  seven  capes,  three  of  the  same 
color  as  his  coat,  the  other  four  the  same  as  his  small- 
clothes. 

The  duty  of  the  coachman  is  to  superintend  the 
carriage  and  horses,  to  see  that  the  grooms  do  their 
duty,  and  to  drive  with  grace  and  dexterity.  The 
duty  of  the  grooms  is  to  rub  down  and  feed  the  horses, 
and  keep  them  in  good  condition ; to  brighten  the 
harness,  and  keep  the  saddles,  bits,  stirrups,  &c.  in 
order.  They  are  usually  assisted  by  stable  boys  and 


44 


ENGLAND. 


helpers.  When  the  coachman  mounts  his  box,  two 
grooms  should  be  in  readiness  to  place  his  whip  in  his 
hands,  and  to  hold  the  reins  for  him  while  he  puts  on 
his  white  gloves.  A coachman  of  taste  seldom  ap- 
pears without  a large  bouquet  in  his  coat.  The  busi- 
ness of  the  butler  is  to  take  charge  ofdhe  cellar,  to  see 
that  the  under-butler  and  footmen  do  their  duty,  and 
to  superintend  at  the  serving  of  the  table,  upon  which 
he  usually  places  the  first  dish.  The  duty  of  an  under- 
butler is  nearly  the  same.  The>^entfeman’s  valet 
attends  solely  to  the  personal  appearance  ot.his  master. 
It  is  his  duty  to  keep  the  gentleman’s  \%rdrobe  in 
order  ; to  curl  his  hair  ; atange  his  whiske,|jf ; remind 
him  of  his  engagements  ; and  to  take  care  that  his 
dress  and  appearance  are  exactly  according  to  the  last 
fashion.  In  a large  establishment  there  are  usually 
several  footmen.  Of  these  one  belongs  exclusively  to 
the  lady.  He  attends  her  wherever  she  goes,  with  a 
cane  in  his  hand,  silk  stockings,  and  a nosegay  in  his 
coat.  He  stands  behind  her  carriage  ; attends  her  to 
the  opera,  theatre.  See.  Sec.,  and  walks  behind  her  in 
the  Park  ; stands  behind  her  chair  at  table,  and  should 
be  six  feet  high.  Footmen  of  this  altitude  are  in  great 
demand.  The  other  footmen  stand  behind  the  car- 
riage, serve  at  table,  clean  the  plate,  and  keep  every- 
thing appertaining  to  the  table  in  order.  A separate 
table  is  usually  kept  for  the  upper  and  under  servants, 
as  the  butler  and  gentleman’s  personal  servant  con- 
sider it  a degradation  to  eat  with  the  footmen  or 
grooms. 

Ladies  of  high  rank  in  London  are  frequently  at- 
tended by  chasseurs  and  hussars,  especially  by  the 


ENGLAND. 


45 


former.  The  dress  of  a chasseur  is  very  splendid.  It* 
is  either  green  and  gold,  or  green  and  silver.  He 
wears  a dress-coat  covered  with  gold  lace,  loose  trou- 
sers striped  with  gold,  a cocked  hat,  and  an  enormous 
black  plume  and  moustaches ; also,  half  boots  of  cha- 
mois colored  leather,  and  gloves  of  the  same,  with  a 
gold  belt,  in  which  is  stuck  a couteau-de-chasse.  The 
tallest  men  are  chosen  for  this  office,  and  they  are 
usually  Italians.  The  hussar  wears  the  dress  of  a 
hussar  officer,  with  a cap,  cloak,  and  boots.  It  is  the 
duty  both  of  the  hussar  and  chasseur  to  stand  behind 
the  carriage,  and  attend  upon  the  lady,  supplying  the 
place  and  doing  the  office  of  a lady’s  footman. 

Architecture  has  received  distinguished  patronage 
from  the  successive  sovereigns,  and  the  principal 
nobility  of  England ; and  many  recent  specimens, 
both  in  the  classic  and  Gothic  styles,  reflect  honor  on 
the  living  professors  of  the  art.  London,  the  capital, 
is  a well  built  city,  yet  the  foreigner  who  visits  it  dis- 
covers that  utility,  not  ornament,  is  the  main  charac- 
teristic of  the  place.  The  manner  of  building  among 
the  rich  in  England  is  not  so  much  national  as  it  is  a 
collection  of  all  that  is  national  in  other  countries,  and 
of  what  remains  of  former  ages.  Costly  and  magnifi- 
cent piles  of  architecture  are  spread  over  the  whole 
country,  and  there  is  scarcely  a neighborhood  which 
has  not  some  edifice  that  attracts  the  visits  of  travel- 
lers. The  Gothic,  the  Grecian,  the  Chined,  the 
Saracenic,  the  Egyptian,  and  various  othe^  styles  of 
building,  for  which  art  has  no  name,  are  found  in 
England.  The  convenience  of  an  Englishman’s  house 
is  unrivalled ; everything  is  perfect  in  its  kind ; con- 


46 


ENGLAND. 


venience  is  more  studied  than  economy,  and  there  is 
not  a door  nor  a window  that  is  not  jointed  with  the 
nicest  art.  The  very  farmhouses  have  an  air  of  neat- 
ness and  comfort  that  makes  no  part  of  the  picture  of 
a farmer’s  dwelling  in  the  United  States.  The  walls 
are  covered  with  creeping  and  flowering  plants.  The 
roofs  are  frequently  thatched  with  straw  ; and  in  some 
of  the  older  towns,  whole  streets  of  thatched  houses 
may  be  seen.  England  is  the  country  of  unequal 
wealth,  and  the  cottage  of  the  poor  is  strongly  con- 
trasted with  the  mansion  of  the  rich ; yet  if  there  is 
luxury  in  the  one,  there  is  often  comfort  in  the  other. 
The  cottages  are  both  of  brick  and  stone,  and  though 
small,  they  are  neat.  The  villages  are  generally  old 
and  dingy.  It  is  in  the  country  mansion  that  the 
wealthy  part  of  the  English  are  seen  to  the  best 
advantage. 

The  traveller  in  England  is  struck  with  the  beauty 
of  the  external  aspect  of  England.  Every  house, 
every  farm,  seems  to  be  kept  with  the  utmost  neat- 
ness. Nothing  is  seen  unfinished ; nothing  is  left 
as  a blemish  to  the  landscape  ; there  are  no  heaps 
of  rubbish ; no  spectacles  of  dilapidation ; no  works 
begun  and  abandoned  as  evidences  of  abortive  schemes 
and  ruinous  enterprises.  Whatever  is  begun  seems 
to  be  carried  on  to  completion. 

The  lands  are  cultivated  to  the  highest  pitch  of  per- 
fection ; the  cattle  are  of  fine  breeds  and  are  well 
kept ; the  sheep  are  clean  and  fat ; the  horses  well 
groomed,  and  generally  in  high  condition.  The 
houses,  though  often  old  and  meanly  built,  still  bear 
the  marks  of  care  so  as  to  be  kept  tight  and  dura- 


ENGLAND. 


47 


ble.  Everywliere  is  displayed  a taste  for  vines  and 
flowers  and  shade-trees,  about  the  houses.  The  num- 
ber of  stately  country  seats  is  amazing,  and  the  care 
and  skill  bestowed  upon  them  are  worthy  of  admiration^ 

To  account  for  this  external  aspect  of  wealth  and 
happiness,  which  strikes  the  traveller  in  England,  we 
must  bear  in  mind  that  a very  large  share  of  the  soil 
belongs  to  rich  proprietors.  Each  one  of  them  is 
solicitous  to  preserve  the  family  estate  in  good  con- 
dition, and  to  hand  it  down  to  his  successor  even 
improved  and  embellished.  To  his  cultivated  taste,  it 
is  as  important  that  his  house  and  grounds  should  pre- 
sent a tasteful  aspect,  as  to  afford  convenient  shelter  or 
ample  income.  Thus  a large  part  of  the  lands  in  the 
kingdom  are  subjected  to  the  cherishing  influence  of 
men  of  cultivated  taste  and  abundant  means.  Nor  is 
this  all — the  examples  thus  set  are  likely  to  establish 
a taste — a fashion — which  will  surely  be  followed  by 
others.  In  respect  to  the  humble  tenements,  it  must 
be  remembered  that  even  these  are  usually  the  property 
of  wealthy  landlords,  who  are  not  likely  to  permit  them 
to  offend  against  the  general  notion  of  propriety.  If 
they  are  thatched,  they  must  be  well  thatched,,  and 
brought  near  to  the  standard  of  perfection,  in  that  style 
to  which  they  belong. 

The  greater  number  of  the  houses  in  London  are 
of  the  following  description.  They  are  built  of  brick 
of  a dingy  brown  color,  and  are  of  a pretty  uniform 
style  of  architecture,  plain  and  unornamented.  They 
are  narrow,  and  four  or  five  stories  in  height ; one  of 
which  contains  the  dining-room,  another  the  sleeping 
apartments,  a third  the  drawing-room,  a fourth  is 


ENGLAND. 


49 


under  ground  for  the  kitchen,  and  the  garret  is  for  the 
servants.  The  ease  and  agility  with  which  the  indi- 
viduals of  the  family  run  up  and  down  and  perch  on 
the  different  stories,  give  the  idea  of  a cage  with  its 
birds  hopping  from  roost  to  roost.  The  plan  of  these 
houses  is  very  simple : there  are  two  rooms  on  each 
story,  one  in  the  front  with  two  oj  three  windows 
looking  on  the  street,  the  other  on  a^'yard  behind, 
often  very  small,  the  stairs  being  generally  taken  out 
of  the  breadth  of  the  back  room.  The  ground  floor  is 
usually  elevated  a few  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
street,  and  separated  from  it  by  what  is  called  the  area^ 
a sort  of  ditch  a few  feet  wide,  and  six  or  eight  feet 
deep,  inclosed  by  an  iron  railing ; the  windows  of  the 
kitchen  are  in  this  area,  and  a bridge  of  stone  or  brick 
passes  over  it  to  the  front  door  of  the  house. 

A favorite  sport  of  the  English  is  fox-hunting ; and 
as  foxes  are  scarce  in  the  south  of  England,  they  are 
imported  from  France  and  turned  loose  upon  the  coast 
to  keep  up  the  breed  for  hunting.  There  is  no  race  of 
people,  not  even  the  hunting  tribes  of  savages,  who 
delight  so  passionately  as  the  English  in  this  sport. 
The  fox-hunter  of  the  last  generation  was  a character 
as  utterly  unlike  any  other  in  society,  and  as  totally 
absorbed  in  his  own  pursuits,  as  the  alchymist.  All 
his  thoughts  ran  upon  his  hounds  and  his  horses ; his 
whole  anxiety  was  that  the  weather  might  be  favora- 
ble for  the  sport ; his  whole  conversation  was  of  the 
kennel  and  stable,  and  history  of  his  chases.  This 
race,  however,  has  much  declined,  and  now  exists 
only  in  a few  families,  in  which  the  passion  has  so 
long  been  handed  down  from  father  to  son  that  it 
XIX. — 5 


50 


ENGLAND. 


has  become  a sort  of  hereditary  disease.  The  great 
alteration  in  society  which  has  taken  place  during  the 
present  century,  tends  to  obliterate  all  strong  contrasts 
of  character.  The  agriculturist  has  caught  the  spirit 
of  commerce ; the  merchant  is  educated  like  the  noble- 
man ; the  sea-officer  has  the  polish  of  high  life ; and 
London  is  now  so  often  visited,  that  the  manners  of 
the  metropolis  are  to  be  found  in  every  country  gen- 
tleman’s house.  But  though  hunting  is  less  prevalent 
than  formerly,  it  is  still  pursued  with  keen  ardor  and 
desperate  perseverance,  beyond  even  that  of  savages. 
The  prey  is  the  object  for  which  these  set  their  snares 
or  lie  patiently  in  wait ; but  with  the  English  sports- 
man, the  pleasure  is  in  the  pursuit.  It  is  no  uncom- 
mon thing  to  read  in  the  newspapers  of  a chase  of 
thirty  or  forty  miles,  and  all  this  at  full  speed  and 
without  intermission ; dogs,  men  and  horses  equally 
eager  and  equally  delighted,  if  not  equally  fatigued. 

The  grand  resort  of  fox-hunters  at  the  present  day 
is  at  Melton  Mowbray  in  Leicestershire,  a place  which 
has  sprung  up  within  thirty  years  from  an  insignifi- 
cant village  into  a thriving  town,  where  fifty  thousand 
pounds  sterling  are  annually  spent  in  sporting.  This 
place  generally  contains  from  two  to  three  hundred 
hunting  horses  in  the  hands  of  the  most  experienced 
grooms  which  England  can  produce the  average 
number  of  animals  being  ten  to  each  sportsman,  though 
some  of  them  maintain  double  this  number.  A horse 
requires  five  days’  rest  after  a moderate  run  with  the 
hounds,  and  seven  or  eight  after  a severe  one.  The 
stables  and  other  conveniences  here  are  on  a superb 
scale.  The  horses,  being  of  the  first  quality,  cost  at 


ENGLAND. 


Ol 


least  two  hundred  guineas  each,  and  the  annual 
expense  of  a stud  of  twelve  hunters  is  not  less  than 
one  thousand  pounds.  The  wear  and  tear  of  horse- 
flesh is  considerable,  as  one  horse  out  of  every  five  or 
six,  on  an  average,  is  lame,  diseased  or  in  some  way 
unfit  for  work.  Melton  Mowbray  is  the  metropolis  of 
the  fox-hunting  world ; and  the  style  ot  the  sportsman 
here  has  long  distinguished  him  above  his  brethren  of 
what  be  calls  the  'provincial  chase.  When  turned  out 
of  the  hands  of  his  valet,  he  exhibits  the  perfection  of 
his  caste.  The  exact,  Stultz-like  fit  of  his  coat,  his 
superlatively  well-cleaned  leather  breeches  and  boots, 
and  the  generally  obvious  high  breeding  of  the  man 
can  seldom  be  matched  elsewhere.  The  reader  would 
be  surprised  by  an  enumeration  of  the  persons  of  rank, 
wealth  and  fashion,  who,  during  several  months  of 
every  year,  resign  the  comforts  and  elegances  of  their 
family  mansions  for  a small  house  in  some  paltry 
town  of  Leicestershire, — to  the  eye  of  any  but  a sports- 
man, one  of  the  most  uninviting  of  all  the  counties 
of  England. 

The  most  marvellous  feats  are  recorded  in  the 
annals  of  sporting.  We  are  told  bow  a hunted  animal, 
unable  to  escape,  has  sprung  from  a precipice,  and 
somd  of  the  hounds  have  followed ; of  a stag  which, 
after  one  of  these  unmerciful  pursuits,  returned  to  its 
own  lair,  and,  leaping  a high  boundary  wfith  its  last 
effort,  dropped  down  dead, — the  only  hound  which  had 
kept  up  with  it  to  the  last,  dying  in  like  manner.  It 
is  said  hunting  was  the  only  English  custom  which 
William  of  Orange  thoroughly  and  heartily  adopted, 
as  if  he  had  been  an  Englishman  himself.  He  was  a 


52 


ENGLAND. 


very  bold  rider,  making  it  a point  of  honor  never  to 
be  outdone  in  any  leap,  however  perilous.  A certain 
Mr.  Cherry,  who  was  devoted  to  the  exiled  family, 
took  advantage  of  this  to  form  perhaps  the  most  pardon- 
able design  which  was  ever  projected  against  a king’s 
life.  He  regularly  joined  the  royal  hounds,  put  him- 
self foremost,  and  took  the  most  dangerous  leaps,  in 
the  hope  that  William  might  break  his  neck  in  follow- 
ing him.  One  day,  however,  he  accomplished  a feat 
so  imminently  hazardous,  that  the  king,*  when  he  came 
to  the  spot,  shook  his  head,  and  drew  back. 

Shooting  is  pursued  with  the  same  zeal.  Many  a 
man  who,  if  a walk  of  seven  or  eight  miles  were  pro- 
posed to  him,  would  shrink  from  it  as  an  exertion 
beyond  his  strength,  will  walk  from  sunrise  till  a late 
dinner  hour,  with  a gun  upon  his  shoulder,  over  heath 
and  mountain,  never  thinking  of  distance,  and  never 
feeling  fatigue.  A game-book,  as  it  is  called,  is  one 
of  the  regular  publications  in  which  the  sportsman 
may  keep  an  account  of  all  the  game  he  kills,  the 
time  when,  the  place  where,  and  chronicle  the  whole 
history  of  his  campaigns.  The  preservation  of  the 
game  becomes  necessarily  an  object  of  peculiar  inter- 
est to  the  gentry,  and  the  laws  upon  this  subject  are 
enforced  with  a rigor  unknown  in  any  other  part  of 
Europe.  In  spite  of  this,  it  is  becoming  scarcer  every 
year.  Poaching,  that  is,  killing  game  without  a 
license  to  do  so,  is  made  a regular  occupation ; from 
this  source,  the  stage  coaches  carry  hares,  partridges, 
*&c.  from  all  parts  of  the  kingdom  to  the  metropolis 
for  sale,  and  the  larders  of  all  the  great  inns  are  thus 
regularly  supplied ; they  who  would  eagerly  punish 


ENGLAND. 


53 


the  poacher,  never  failing  to  encourage  him  by  pur- 
chasing from  his  employers. 

Music  and  dancing  can  hardly  be  reckoned  among 
the  popular  amusements  of  the  English.  Christmas, 
Easter  and  Whitsuntide,  the  only  seasons  of  festival 
in  England,  are  always  devoted  by  the  artificers  and 
peasantry  to  riot  and  intoxication.  Bull-baiting  is  a 
favorite  sport  of  the  vulgar,  but  nothing  interests  them 
more  than  a boxing-match, — although  it  is  less  in 
vogue  than  formerly.  Pugilism,  as  it  is  scientifically 
called,  seems  to  be  peculiar  to  the  English.  This 
barbarous  practice  might  easily  be  suppressed ; it  is 
against  the  laws ; the  magistrates  may  interfere  if 
they  please ; yet  exhibitions  of  this  sort  are  frequent. 
When  a match  is  made  between  two  prize-fighters, 
the  tidings  are  immediately  communicated  to  the  public 
in  what  are  called  the  flash  newspapers,  and  paragraphs 
occasionally  appear,  stating  the  rivals  to  be  in  training, 
what  exercise  they  take,  and  what  diet, — for  sometimes 
they  feed  upon  raw  beef  as  a preparative.  Meantime, 
the  amateurs  and  gamblers  choose' their  party,  and  the 
state  of  the  betting  appears  also  in  the  newspapers 
from  time  to  time ; not  unfrequently  the  whole  is  a 
concerted  scheme,  that  a few  rogues  may  cheat  a great 
many  fools.  When  the  combat  at  length  takes  place, 
a regular  report  is  prepared  for  the  newspapers,  as  if 
it  were  an  affair  of  national  concern  ; the  particulars 
are  recorded  with  a minuteness  at  once  ridiculous  and 
disgraceful,  for  every  movement  has  its  technical  or 
slang  name,  and  the  unprecedented  science  of  the 
successful  combatant  becomes  the  theme  of  general 
admiration. 


D 


5* 


54 


ENGLAND. 


The  Clubs  form  a main  feature  in  the  social  system 
of  the  richer  classes  in  London.  Formerly  they  were 
merely  the  resort  of  gamesters,  politicians,  or  men 
given  to  the  pleasures  of  the  table ; at  present  they 
have  assumed  a more  intellectual  character ; and  every 
calling  has  its  peculiar  club,  from  the  soldier  to  the 
scholar.  The  effect  which  this  multiplicity  of  clubs 
has  produced  is  thought  to  be  highly  beneficial ; it  has 
begun  to  counteract  the  reserved  and  solitary  disposi- 
tion of  the  people : it  opens  a ready  intercourse  with 
foreign  guests,  who  are  usually  admitted  as  honorary 
members.  It  has  been  thought  that  the  clubs  render 
men  less  domestic ; but  in  fact  they  render  them  less  un- 
social, and  form  a cheap  mode  of  intellectual  relaxation, 
and  unbend  the  mind  while  improving  it.  But  these 
are  their  least  advantages ; they  contain  the  germ  of  a 
great  improvement  in  the  condition  of  the  humbler 
classes,  who  will  sooner  or  later  adopt  institutions  so 
peculiarly  favorable  to  their  condition.  By  this  species 
of  cooperation,  a man  with  £200  a year  can,  at  pres- 
ent, command  the  luxuries  of  a man  of  £5,000  a year, — 
airy  and  spacious  apartments,  the  comforts  of  the  table, 
lights,  fires,  a library,  and  intellectual  society.  The 
same  principle,  on  a humbler  scale,  would  procure  the 
same  advantages  for  the  shopkeeper  or  the  artisan. 

All  that  luxury  and  convenience  demand  is  found 
at  the  club-houses  in  as  great  perfection  as  in  private 
dwellings.  The  stairs  and  rooms  are  covered  with 
fresh  and  handsome  carpets ; marble  chimney-pieces, 
superb  mirrors,  and  a profusion  of  furniture,  adorn  the 
rooms.  Numerous  servants,  neatly  dressed,  are  in 
attendance ; and  a porter  is  always  at  his  post,  to  take 


ENGLAND. 


5S 


charge  of  great  coats  and  umbrellas.  In  the  elegant 
and  well  furnished  library  there  is  a person  always 
ready  to  fetch  you  what  books  you  want ; all  the 
magazines,  newspapers,  &:c.  are  provided  in  the 
reading-room ; a large  collection  of  maps  and  charts 
are  arranged  in  a separate  apartment ; — in  short,  every 
convenience  for  study  may  be  found  in  these  estab- 
lishments. The  arrangements  of  the  first-rate  London 
clubs  have  now  arrived  at  such  a point  of  perfection, 
that  young  men  of  fashion  not  only  spend  the  greater 
part  of  their  time  there,  but  care  little  for  any  other 
society  than  they  find  there.  Newspapers,  billiards, 
conversation  upon  sport,  gaiety  or  politics,  lounging  at 
the  windows  and  quizzing  the  passers-by,  usually  fill 
up  their  morning  hours,  and  dispose  of  those  dull 
moments  during  which  no  votary  of  fashion  can  with 
propriety  be  seen  out  of  doors.  Eeturning  either  from 
his  attendance  at  parliament,  or  from  a fatiguing  ride, 
a Member  has  the  satisfaction  of  having  a dinner  at  a 
moment’s  warning,  without  the  troublesome  necessity 
of  diessing  or  pulling  off  his  boots.  If  he  gives  a dinner 
to  a party  of  his  fashionable  friends,  a private  apart- 
ment is  provided  for  him,  together  with  every  luxury 
and  delicacy  that  London  can  afford, — the  most  perfect 
attendance,  the  best  cookery  and  the  rarest  wines. 

The  English  are  unquestionably  the  greatest  gam- 
blers in  Christendom.  London  abounds  with  gaming 
houses,  great  and  small.  The  most  famous  is  Crock- 
ford’s  : it  is  situated  in  the  fashionable  part  of  the  city, 
and  is  probably  the  most  extensive  and  splendid  gam- 
ing establishment  in  the  world.  The  house  and  fur- 
niture are  supposed  to  have  cost  £100,000  sterling. 


56 


ENGLAND. 


The  most  sumptuous  dinners  are  here  given,  free  of 
charge,  and  the  choicest  wines  are  added  in  profusion. 
Young  noblemen  who  have  just  succeeded  to  their 
estates,  and  others  who  have  large  expectancies,  are 
sought  out  and  taken  by  the  arm  by  some  person  in 
the  pay  of  the  establishment,  whose  business  it  is  to 
hunt  for  victims.  By  this  agent  they  are  invited  to 
dine  at  Crockford's,  but  not  a word  is  said  about  cards 
or  dice.  They  feel  flattered  by  the  invitation  and 
accept  it.  After  the  sumptuous  dinner  a liberal  supply 
of  choice  wines  will  often  inspire  a disposition  for 
gaming  where  it  did  not  previously  exist.  It  is-  a 
great  object  to  dupe  one  of  these  “ flats,”  as  they  are 
called,  and  a regular  plan  is  concerted  to  effect  it. 
All  the  skill  and  cunning  of  experienced  gamblers  are 
put  in  requisition.  The  victim  is  treated  with  the 
utmost  courtesy  and  attention,  and  for  the  first  few 
nights  he  is  allowed  almost  invariably  to  win.  During 
the  interval,  the  proprietor  of  the  establishment  has 
informed  himself  of  the  amount  of  his  property,  and 
he  has  been  inspired  with  confidence  in  his  own  skill 
and  a deeper  passion  for  play*  The  road  to  ruin  is 
made  smooth  : all  his  desires  are  gratified ; he  seems 
to  have  everything  in  his  own  way  : his  purse  is  filled 
with  unexpected  gold,  and  he  dashes  into  the  fashion- 
able world  with  exultation  and  display. 

The  wine-cellar  is  the  great  agent  that  ensures  suc- 
cess to  the  establishment.  This  is  an  enormous  vault 
filled  with  the  choicest  liquors  in  the  world.  The 
cook  has  a salary  of  a thousand  guineas  a year,  and 
spreads  an  entertainment  as  exquisite  as  the  most  fas- 
tidious epicure  could  desire.  After  the  young  prac- 


ENGLAND. 


57 


titioner  has  enjoyed  his  good  luck  and  good  dinners 
for  some  time  the  tables  are  turned,  and  he  begins  to 
lose.  But  he  considers  it  only  the  fortune  of  the 
game  : no  man  can  expert,  to  have  all  the  luck  on  his 
side,  and  the  play  goes  on.  His  ready  money  is  gone  ; 
what  shall  he  do  ? The  embarrassment  cannot  be 
borne  : it  must  not  be  whispered  in  the  circles  of 
fashion  and  rank,  where  he  has  already; -made  a sen- 
sation, that  the  young  lord  can  no  longer  keep  up  his 
establishment ; but  he  has  no  money.  This  matters 
not,  since  Crockford’s  bank,  which  is  always  full,  will 
advance  him  cash  to  the  amount  of  his  property.  He 
is  now  ready  for  a deeper  and  more  exciting  game, 
with  the  belief  that  the  luck  will  turn,  and  he  feels 
that  he  must  win  back  his  money  or  fall  from  his 
elevation  in  disgrace.  In  this  state  of  mind  he  is 
introduced  to  a private  room,  where  the  French 
hazard-table  stands,  and  here  the  work  of  plunder  and 
robbery  is  prosecuted  on  a grand  scale.  The  stakes 
are  usually  high : the  first  he  wins ; and  then,  per- 
suaded that  the  tide  of  fortune  has  turned  in  his  favor, 
he  grows  more  daring.  The  next  stake  is  higher, 
and  this  also  he  wins.  The  delicious  wines  sparkle 
on  the  table  afresh,  for  it  is  only  under  the  maddening 
influence  of  the  bottle  that  these  deeds  of  desperation 
are  performed,  and  the  game  once  more  goes  on.  An 
immense  stake  is  laid,  exceeding  the  aggregate  of  all 
that  had  gone  before, — the  throw  is  made  and  he  loses 
it ! He  now  feels  that  unless  he  can  recover  himself 
by  a single  fortunate  stake  he  is  a ruined  man  ; and 
in  the  madness  of  desperation  he  resolves  to  make  or 
mar  his  fortune  forever  : he  stakes  his  all : and  the  next 
cast  of  the  dice  makes  the  young  nobleman  a beggar  * 


58 


ENGLAND. 


Such  is  the  manner  in  which  the  most  princely  for 
tunes  are  dissipated.  If  a man,  whose  estate  is  known 
to  be  sufficiently  large,  offers  to  play  for  a stake  of 
£100,000  at  Crockford’s,  the  proffer  is  instantly  accepted. 

oung  noblemen  under  age  have  been  known  to  con- 
tract “ debts  of  honor  ” here  to  the  amount  of  more 
than  the  above  sum,  which  they  paid  off  at  the  expira- 
tion of  their  minority.  It  is  morally  certain  that  every 
man  who  frequents  this  establishment  will  come  off  a 
beggar  at  last,  unless  he  is  a sharer  in  the  gains  of  the 
house ; and  when  his  money  and  lands  are  gone,  he 
is  no  longer  wanted  there,  and  is  generally  turned 
away  with  little  ceremony.  Crockford,  the  proprietor 
of  this  establishment,  died  during  the  present  year 
(1844,)  leaving  an  immense  fortune  of  a million  and  a 
half  sterling,  the  whole  obtained  by  his  gaming  tables. 

He  was  originally  a fishmonger,  and  during  his  whole 
lifetime  was  to  the  last  degree  illiterate,  coarse  and 
vulgar ; yet  he  was  supreme  lord  among  the  crowds 
of  noblemen  who  flocked  to  his  club-house.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  the  sums  annually  lost  in  the  different 
gaming  houses  in  London,  or  “ hells  ” as  they  are  very 
appropriately  termed,  amount  to  eight  millions  sterlino-, 
annually. 

IN  or  are  the  hells  of  London  the  only  places  where 
gambling  is  carried  on.  Betting  at  horse  races,  the' 
cock  pit,  the  sparring  match  and  the  ring,  is  practised 
by  all  classes,  from  the  lord  to  the  lackey.  Betting,  '* 
in  fact,  constitutes,  at  all  these  amusements,  the  pre- 
dominant source  of  interest.  As  the  horses,  at  a race 
course,  approach  the  stand  of  the  judges,  the  whole 
mass  of  spectators  seems  to  writhe  with  an  intensity  of 


ENGLAND. 


59 


feeling  only  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  fact,  that  in 
addition  to  the  excitement  produced  by  a spectacle  of 
strife,  a lively  pecuniary  interest  is  felt  by  thousands 
disti'ibuted  through  the  multitude.  Lords  and  ladies 
are  present,  and  as  they  bet  thousands  of  pounds,  it 
must  be  expected  that  men  and  women  will  follow  their 
imposing  example,  and  where  pounds  are  beyond  their 
means,  they  will  risk  shillings  or  pence.  Even  boys 
catch  the  spirit  of  the  occasion,  and  risk  their  money 
as  bravely  as  their  betters. 

Of  all  offences  against  the  laws  of  good  breeding  in 
England,  v/e  are  told  that  the  three  following  are  the 
greatest,  viz.  : to  put  the  knife  to  the  mouth  in  eating ; 
to  take  up  sugar  or  asparagus  with  the  fingers,  and  to 
spit  anywhere  in  a room.  These  may  be  laudable 
prohibitions  in  England,  though  manners  differ  greatly 
in  different  countries.  A perfectly  well-bred  French- 
man uses  his  fingers  where  an  Englishman  does  not. 
Marshal  Richelieu  detected  an  adventurer  who  pre- 
tended to  be  a man  of  rank,  by  the  single  circumstance 
of  his  taking  up  an  olive  with  his  fork.  Eating  with 
a knife  is  pretty  common  in  the  United  States,  owing, 
perhaps,  to  the  fact  that  the  food  is  of  a more  liquid 
character  than  in  England.  *There  is  apparently  an 
undue  importance  attached  to  these  matters,  but  trivial 
things  are  always  of  the  highest  moment  in  what 
relates  to  etiquette.  A person  who  has  seen  much  of 
the  world,  gives  the  following  advice  to  a young  tra- 
veller. “ In  Naples,  treat  the  people  brutally : in 
Rome,  be  natural : in  Austria,  never  talk  politics ; in 
France,  give  yourself  no  airs  : in  Germany,  assume  a 
great  many  : and  in  England,  don^t  spit^  A Dutch- 


60 


ENGLAND. 


man  who  was  very  uneasy  on  account  of  the  last  pro- 
hibition, declared  that  an  Englishman’s  only  spitting- 
box  was  his  stomach. 

A traveller  in  England  cannot  fail  to  admire  the 
well-adapted  arrangement  of  everything  belonging  to 
the  economy  of  life ; and  especially  that  of  the  public 
establishments.  The  systematic  rigor  with  which 
whatever  has  been  determined  on,  is  executed,  is  a 
striking  national  characteristic.  In  the  United  States 
our  habits  of  change,  our  love  of  novelty,  sometimes 
lead  us  to  overturn  a good  institution  without  scruple ; 
it  is  the  new  broom  only  that  sweeps  clean.  In  Eng- 
land, the  people  go  even  to  the  opposite  extreme.  A 
thing  is  often  maintained,  when  it  has  become  useless 
— perhaps  pernicious — merely  because  it  has  been  long 
established. 

The  complete  division  of  labor  and  occupation,  in 
that  country,  affords  a strong  contrast  to  the  state  of 
things  here.  A man  there  is  not  expected  to  know 
anything  beyond  his  own  particular  vocation.  We 
Yankees  must  know  and  do  a little  of  everything.  An 
Englishman  confines  himself  strictly  to  his  own  voca- 
tion, and  in  this  he  is  generally  perfect.  Everything, 
there,  is  not  required  of  th*e  same  person,  but  exactly  so 
much,  and  no  more,  as  falls  within  his  own  depart- 
ment. 

The  treatment  of  servants  is  as  excellent  as  the  per- 
formance of  their  duties ; each  has  his  prescribed  field 
of  activity,  in  which,  however,  the  strictest  and  most 
punctual  execution  of  orders  is  required ; and  in  any 
case  of  neglect,  the  master  knows  who  is  to  be  called 
to  account.  At  the  same  time,  the  servants  enjoy  a 


ENGLAND. 


61 


reasonable  freedom,  and  have  certain  portions  of  time 
allotted  to  them  which  the  master  carefully  respects. 
They  are,  however,  entirely  excluded  from  all  familiar- 
ity, and  such  profound  respect  is  exacted  from  them, 
that  they  appear  to  be  considered  rather  as  machines 
than  as  beings  of  the  same  order  with  their  masters. 
This,  and  their  high  wages,  are  no  doubt  the  causes 
why  the  servants  really  possess  more  external  dignity, 
considering  their  station,  than  any  other  class  in  Eng- 
land. In  many  cases  it  would  be  a very  pardonable 
blunder  in  a foreigner  to  mistake  the  valet  for  the  lord, 
especially  if  he  happens  to  imagine  that  courtesy  and 
a good  address  are  the  distinguishing  marks  of  a man 
of  quality.  Such  a test  is  by  no  means  applicable  in 
England,  where  these  advantages  are  not  to  be  found 
among  the  majority  of  persons  of  the  higher  classes. 

One  of  the  most  repulsive  features  of  the  character 
of  the  English  is  that  haughty  aversion  which  they 
show  to  addressing  a stranger ; and  if  the  latter 
should  venture  to  address  them,  they  receive  it  with 
the  air  of  an  insult,  or  treat  him  as  if  they  suspected  a 
design  upon  their  purse.  They  sometimes  laugh  at 
themselves  for  this  strange  incivility,  but  no  one  at- 
tempts to  correct  his  manners.  There  is  a story — made 
perhaps  to  illustrate  this  national  characteristic — that  a 
lady  saw  a man  fall  into  the  water,  and  earnestly  en- 
treated the  dandy  who  accompanied  her,  and  who  was 
known  to  be  a good  swimmer,  to  save  his  life.  The 
exquisite  raised  his  eye-glass  with  the  deliberation  and 
phlegm  indispensable  to  a man  of  fashion,  looked  ear- 
nestly at  the  drowning  man,  whose  head  rose  for  the  last 
time,  and  calmly  replied,  “ It  is  impossible.  Madam, — I 

XIX. — 6 


62 


ENGLAND. 


was  never  introduced  to  that  gentleman ! ” We  are 
told  that  two  young  Englishmen,  on  their  travels,  who 
had  studied  together  at  Oxford  without  an  introduc- 
tion, met  accidentally  at  the  top  of  Mount  Vesuvius — 
they  looked  foolishly  at  each  other,  and  walked  down 
the  mountain  in  opposite  directions,  without  speaking. 

The  first  impression  which  the  foreigner  receives 
in  England,  is  that  of  its  wealth  ; and  the  first  thing 
that  strikes  us  when  we  inquire  into  the  social  system 
of  the  country,  is  the  respect  in  which  wealth  is  held. 
In  some  countries  Pleasure  is  the  idol ; in  others  Glo- 
ry and  the  prouder  desires  of  the  world ; but  with  the 
English,  Mammon  holds  the  ascendancy.  A notorious 
characteristic  of  their  society  is  the  universal  market- 
ing of  their  unmarried  women ; — a marketing  to  he 
found  nowhere  else  in  Christendom,  and  which  a dis- 
tinguished writer  of  that  country  says  is  rivalled  only 
by  the  slave  merchants  of  the  East.  The  English 
may  be  called  a match-making  nation,  and  their  novels 
give  a lively  and  generally  an  unexaggerated  picture 
of  the  intrigues,  the  manoeuvres,  the  plotting  and  coun- 
ter-plotting that  make  the  staple  of  matronly  ambition. 
In  what  is  called  “ good  society,’’  the  heart  is  remark- 
ably prudent,  and  seldom  falls  violently  in  love  with- 
out a sufficient  “ settlement.” 

The  middle  classes  of  the  English  interest  them- 
selves in  grave  matters  ; the  aggregate  of  their  senti- 
ments is  called  opinion.  The  higher  classes  interest 
themselves  in  frivolities,  and  the  aggregate  of  their 
sentiments  is  termed  fashion.  The  former  represents 
the  popular  mind,  the  latter  the  aristocratic.  English 
fashion  is  a strange  thing,  often  contradictory  not  only 


ENGLAND. 


63 


to  common  sense,  but  contradictory  to  itself.  It  has  a 
respect  for  wealth,  with  an  affected  disdain  for  it.  The 
man  of  title  has  generally  either  sprung  from  the  class 
of  rich  citizens,  acknowledging,  as  the  founder  of  his 
rank,  some  thriving  merchant,  banker,  or  lawyer,  or  he 
has  maintained  his  station  by  intermarriage  with  that 
class.  On  the  one  hand,  therefore,  he  is  driven  to  re- 
spect and  to  seek  connexion  with  the  wealthy,  while 
on  the  other,  the  natural  exclusiveness  of  titular  pride 
creates  in  him  or  in  his  wife  a desire  to  maintain 
closely  an  intimacy  with  that  select  circle  into  which 
mere  wealth  is  never  allowed  to  intrude.  The  Eng- 
lish allow  the  opulent  to  possess  power,  but  they  deny 
them  fashion.  But  the  wheel  is  constantly  turning 
round,  and  in  the  next  generation,  the  wealthy  cit  is 
transformed  into  the  titled  exclusive.  Some  one  in 
Dr.  Johnson’s  company  was  asking  the  question, 
“ Where  is  the  spirit  of  the  ancient  aristocracy  ? ” 
“ Sir,”  replied  the  Doctor,  “ I will  tell  you  : — it  is  gone 
into  the  city  to  seek  a fortune.” 

In  our  country  we  have  no  privileged  classes,  but 
in  England  the  nobility  constitute  an  important  feature 
of  society  and  an  unfailing  source  of  interest  to  all. 
The  movements  of  persons  belonging  to  this  superior 
race  of  beings  are  watched  by  the  people  with  the  live- 
liest interest,  and  their  doings,  good  or  bad,  constitute 
a large  share  of  the  staple  for  town  and  country  gos- 
sip. A thing  which  would  be  wholly  indifferent,  if 
done  by  a plebeian,  possesses  a thrilling  interest  if  it 
is  the  work  of  my  lord  or  my  lady.  In  describing 
English  manners,  it  would  be  unpardonable  to  leave 
out  these  high  and  mighty  personages. 


64 


ENGLAND. 


Owing  to  the  meeting  of  parliament,  the  London 
season,  as  it  is  called,  takes  place  during  the  finest 
months  in  the  year.  No  sooner  has  the  spring  begun 
to  put  forth  her  blossoms,  than  carriages  and  four  may 
be  seen  hastening  in  every  direction  towards  the  me- 
tropolis. Green  fields  are  exchanged  for  smoky  streets, 
the  lowing  of  cattle  for  the  voices  of  statesmen,  and  the 
song  of  the  lark  for  the  warbling  of  Grisi  or  Persiani. 
The  noble  mansions  in  Cavendish  or  Grosvenor 
Square,  and  the  elegant  fabrics  in  Park-Lane  and 
May-Fair,  which  all  winter  have  looked  forlorn  and 
deserted,  now  begin  to  assume  an  appearance  of  busi- 
ness and  gaiety.  The  unmarried  nobleman  usually 
hastens  to  his  favorite  hotel,  in  Berkeley  or  St.  James’s 
square,  Albemarle  street  or  Piccadilly.  The  bowing 
waiters  welcome  the  arrival  of  the  coroneted  carriage. 
The  Morning  Post  announces  his  lordship’s  arrival, 
and  his  fashionable  friends  hasten  to  welcome  his  re- 
turn to  the  metropolis.  In  an  incredibly  short  period, 
his  table  is  covered  with  petitions  from  authors  who 
request  the  permission  of  dedicating  their  works  to 
him ; from  actresses  who  request  his  patronage  on  a 
benefit  night ; from  half-starved  younger  sons  wishing 
for  promotion  in  the  army  or  navy ; from  men  out  of 
place  who  are  desirous  of  preferment;  tickets  from 
Almack’s,  tradesmen’s  bills,  showers  of  invitations,  let- 
ters from  his  agents,  from  his  steward,  &c.  It  is  sel- 
dom that  the  noble  lord  has  either  time  or  inclination 
to  attend  to  these  multifarious  matters.  While  taking 
his  chocolate  in  dressing  gown  and  slippers,  he  opens 
a few,  answers  those  from  ladies,  commits  a proportion 
to  the  flames,  and  intrusts  the  rest  to  the  discretion  of 
his  secretary  or  confidential  valet. 


ENGLAND. 


66 


If  he  is  a man  of  political  consequence,  his  society 
is  courted  by  men  in  power,  by  ministers  to  whom  his 
vote  may  be  of  service,  and  who  endeavor  by  invita- 
tions to  their  select  dinners,  and  other  marks  of  atten- 
tion, to  draw  him  over  to  their  party.  If  parliament 
has  met,  his  lordship  drives  to  the  House  of  Lords, 
and  takes  his  seat  amongst  his  peers.  When  the  de- 
bate is  over,  he  mounts  his  horse,  and  gallops  to  the 
park ; renews  his  acquaintance  with  the  ladies  of  his 
own  circle ; makes  his  appearance  at  the  windows  of 
the  most  fashionable  club ; chooses  his  box  at  the 
opera ; patronizes  the  new  singer,  or  ballet  dancer, 
and  repairs  from  thence  to  a select  supper  at  lady 
J y’s,  or  perhaps  terminates  the  evening  by  dis- 

posing of  some  of  his  loose  cash  at  Crockford’s.  A 
soiree  at  H — House,  is  one  which  his  lordship  would 
by  no  means  omit.  This  splendid  mansion  is  situated 
in  Park-Lane.  On  festive  occasions  nothing  can  be 
more  brilliant  than  the  appearance  it  presents.  The 
stair  is  an  inclined  plane,  winding  through  the  house 
by  a gentle  ascent,  and  richly  covered  with  Turkey 
carpet.  The  light  is  inclosed  in  pillars  of  crystal, 
which  have  a very  brilliant  and  novel  effect.  The 
rooms  are  magnificently  furnished ; and  even  the 
dressing  room  and  boudoir  of  the  marchioness  are 
thrown  open  on  gala  nights  for  the  inspection  of  the 
curious.  The  furniture  of  the  boudoir  is  composed 
entirely  of  Indian  shawls  of  immense  value.  The 
chairs  and  sofas  are  covered  with  the  borders  of  these 
shawls.  All  the  toilette  ornaments  are  massive  gold  * 
and  pages  dressed  in  pink  and  silver  are  in  constant 
attendance.  If  the  nobleman  is  married,  he  prefers 
6* 


66 


ENGLAND. 


his  family  maDsion  to  an  hotel.  His  society  is  more 
extensive,  yet  more  recherchee.  The  duke  of  D. 
though  an  unmarried  nobleman,  yet  being  of  a certain 
age,  and  possessed  of  a stupendous  fortune,  is  in  the 
habit  of  giving  balls,  suppers,  and  private  theatricals, 
to  which  ladies  of  the  highest  rank  consider  it  a dis- 
tinction to  be  invited.  They  do  not  even  expect  his 
grace  to  exert  his  memory  so  far  as  to  call  upon  them, 
but  leave  their  cards  with  his  porter,  who  inscribes 
their  names  in  his  book.  It  is  also  the  duty  of  a no- 
bleman to  attend  the  levees  and  drawing-rooms  at 
court,  on  which  occasion  he  displays  every  possible 
magnificence  in  dress,  equipage,  and  liveries. 

But  parliament  at  length  is  up,  London  gaiety  ends, 

“ And  tradesmen,  with  long  bills,  and  longer  faces, 

Sigh  as  the  post-boys  fasten  on  the  traces.^’ 

Every  one  who  has  the  least  pretensions  to  fashion 
hastens  from  town,  as  if  the  plague  or  cholera  morbus 
had  suddenly  made  their  appearance  in  its  populous 
streets.  As  Lord  Byron  says. 

The  English  winter — ending  in  July 
To  recommence  in  August — now  was  done, 

’T  is  the  postilion’s  paradise  j wheels  fly  j 
On  roads,  east,  south,  north,  west,  there  is  a run.’’ 

The  Morning  Post  announces  the  departure  of  the 
noble  lord  and  his  family  for  his  seat  in  the  county  of 

, as  the  shooting-season  is  about  to  commence. 

His  lordship,  however  numerous  his  estates,  gives  the 
preference  to  that  where  the  best  sport  can  be  furnish- 
ed. But  to  enliven  the  solitude  of  the  country,  a se- 
lect and  numerous  party  of  his  fashionable  and^ sporting 
friends  are  invited  to  join  him.  Dukes  and  duchesses, 


ENGLAND. 


67 


earls  and  countesses,  foreigners  of  distinction,  Greek 
counts,  and  Polish  princes,  sporting  characters,  men 
of  talent  and  literature,  or  who  wish  to  pass  for  such ; 
wits,  poets,  and  hangers  on,  of  every  description,  and 
frequently  the  last  celebrated  actress  or  singer,  who 
has  consented  to  w’arble  a few  notes  at  an  enormous 
expense,  all  follow  in  his  train ; some  to  amuse,  and 
some  to  be  amused,  some  to  kill  time,  and  others  to 
kill  birds  ; fortune-hunters  and  fox-hunters,  some  from 
the  love  of  gaming,  and  others  from  the  love  of  game. 
A French  cook,  an  Italian  confectioner,  and  a German 
courier  have  been  sent  down  to  prepare  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  guests.  The  country  squires  and  their 
wives  look  out  anxiously  for  the  arrival  of  the  noble- 
man and  his  London  train ; the  ladies  in  hopes  of  see- 
ing the  last  London  fashions  and  London  airs,  gay 
breakfasts  and  county  balls  ; the  gentlemen  in  the 
more  substantial  expectation  of  good  dinners  and 
choice  wines.  The  villagers  rejoice  at  seeing  the 
curling  smoke  once  more  ascend  from  the  chimneys 
of  the  great  house.  The  gamekeepers  clean  their 
rusty  firelocks  and  shot  belts.  The  grooms  look  well 
to  the  condition  of  their  stud,  and  the  gardeners  ar- 
range their  hot-houses,  conservatories,  and  pineries 
for  my  lady’s  approbation.  The  family  seat  of  an 
English  nobleman  usually  combines  ancient  grandeur 
with  modern  elegance. 

The  principal  entries  are  guarded  by  gates  of  solid 
iron,  with  porter’s  lodges  constructed  with  much  taste ; 
sometimes  castellated  to  suit  the  architecture  of  the 
house  itself,  or  low  Grecian  buildings  with  rows  of 
marble  pillars,  entwined  with  jasmine  and  roses.  The 


68 


ENGLAND. 


avenue  winds  through  the  park,  which  is  a vast  in- 
closure, frequently  twenty  miles  in  circumference,  and 
adorned  with  scattered  clumps  of  noble  trees,  oaks 
which  are  the  growth  of  centuries. 

And  oaks,  as  olden  as  their  pedigree, 

Told  of  their  sires,  a tomb  in  every  tree.’’ 

Summer-houses,  cottage-ornees,  and  temples  are 
scattered  in  every  direction.  Perhaps  a noble  river 
winds  its  course  through  the  grounds,  with  wooded 
banks  sloping  downward  to  its  brink ; or  a broad  trans- 
parent lake  with  islands  and  pleasure-boats,  adds  to 
the  variety  of  the  scenery.  Numerous  herds  of  deer 
may  be  seen  lying  under  the  forest-trees,  startling  at 
the  slightest  sound,  and  sweeping  by  to  hide  them- 
selves in  the  thickest  shade.  Then  there  are  gardens 
with  heated-walls,  shrubberies  and  plantations  of  vast 
extent,  green-houses  and  hothouses,  graperies,  pine- 
ries and  aviaries ; yet  little  rural  beauty  is  enjoyed 
by  the  proprietor  of  the  estate  ; for  the  flowers  have  fad- 
ed, and  the  leaves  grown  yellow  with  the  autumnal 
tint,  before  fashion  permits  him  to  pay  any  lengthened 
visit  to  his  country  seat.  Within  the  mansion  there 
are  long  suites  of  rooms,  furnished  with  all  the  reflne- 
ment  of  modern  luxury,  Turkey  carpets,  low  ottomans, 
damask  hangings,  and  walls  draped  with  silk,  and 
panelled  with  mirrors  ; statues,  vases,  and  candelabras, 
tables  of  mosaic  and  or-molu ; long  galleries,  and  huge 
halls  which  retain  a more  ancient  and  feudal  taste ; 
the  walls  hung  with  family-portraits,  descended  from 
generations  long  since  passed  away, — barons  in  steel, 
and  ladies  in  antique  court-dresses  ; judges  in  ermine, 
and  generals  in  armor ; beauties  from  the  pencil  of 


ENGLAND. 


69 


Vandyke  and  Sir  Peter  Lely — frequently  mingled 
with  paintings  from  still  greater  masters ; — Claude  Lor- 
raines, Titians,  and  Salvators.  It  might  be  thought 
from  the  heterogeneous  mixture  of  guests  assembled 
at  the  nobleman’s  villa,  that  little  harmony  would  sub- 
sist among  them.  But  there  is  one  rule  observed  by 
the  host  which  is  seldom  broken  in  upon.  He  never 
interferes  with  the  pursuits  of  his  guests,  but  leaves 
them  to  follow  the  bent  of  their  own  inclinations  whe- 
ther grave  or  gay. 

The  m.an  of  literature  and  the  sportsman,  follow 
their  respective  tastes  undisturbed.  Here  is  a library 
for  the  studious,  music-rooms  for  the  lover  of  harmony ; 
for  the  connoisseur  there  is  the  gallery  of  paintings, 
and  billiards  for  those  who  prefer  that  amusement. 
Horses  ready  saddled  are  at  the  disposal  of  all  who 
wish  for  exercise ; and  numerous  servants  are  in  waiting 
to  attend  the  call  of  those  who  remain  in  their  apart- 
ments, and  prefer  their  own  society  to  that  of  others. 
If  the  morning  is  fine,  and  fitted  for  the  enjoyment  of 
the  chase,  his  lordship  rises  betimes,  and  joins  the 
sportsmen.  The  court  now  presents  an  animated 
scene  ; there  are  game-keepers  ; gentlemen  in  shooting- 
jackets  or  hunting-coats ; grooms  giving  gentle  exer- 
cise to  the  hunters ; grey-hounds  in  leashes ; pointers, 
&;c.  A substantial  breakfast  is  spread  for  the  keen 
appetite  of  the  sportsmen.  The  side-tables  are  cover- 
ed with  game,  cold  meat,  and  wine.  A hasty  break- 
fast is  interrupted  by  the  shrill  blast  of  the  horn.  The 
huntsman  rides  round  at  the  head  of  his  yelling  pack 
of  fox-hounds,  cracks  his  whip,  and  calls  each  dog  to 
order  by  name.  The  nobleman  and  his  sporting 


70 


ENGLAND. 


guests  hurry  out,  mount  their  hunters,  and  gallop  after 
the  hounds.  But  if  the  morning  is  dark  and  rainy, 
and  no  sport  can  be  enjoyed  out  of  doors,  other 
amusements  are  resorted  to.  The  breakfast-room  is 
filled  with  idlers  and  loungers. 

The  first  interesting  moment  is  the  arrival  of  the 
newspapers  and  letters.  The  eagerness  with  which 
the  bag  is  opened,  and  the  avidity  with  which  its  con- 
tents are  received,  would  lead  one  to  suspect,  that 
wherever  the  guests  may  have  strayed,  their  thoughts 
are  in  London.  As  his  lordship  enjoys  the  same  lib- 
erty that  he  leaves  to  his  guests,  he  probably  passes 
the  morning  in  his  apartment,  receives  his  steward, 
looks  over  his  bills,  listens  to  the  complaints  of  his 
tenantry,  or  consults  with  his  architect  in  regard  to 
the  repairing  or  embellishing  his  mansion.  Perhaps 
an  hour  at  billiards,  or  a visit  to  the  stables,  passes 
away  the  time  till  luncheon,  when  the  ladies  meet  to 
eat,  and  the  gentlemen  to  look  at  them,  for  no  true 
gourmand  will  spoil  his  dinner  by  an  intervening 
m.eal.  But  the  dinner  hour  in  the  country  is  the  time 
for  sociability,  when  English  reserve  thaws,  when  the 
company  meet  together  probably  for  the  first  time  in 
the  day,  and  the  courteous  host  presides  at  his  table 
with  the  cares  of  the  morning  erased  from  his  brow. 

The  large  hall  is  brilliantly  lighted  up,  and  a cheer- 
ful fire  blazes  in  the  grate.  The  tables  and  side- 
board shine  in  all  the  luxury  of  massive  gold  plate, 
with  the  family  arms  emblazoned  in  every  direction. 
The  refined  French  cookery  is  mingled  with  more 
solid  fare  for  the  hungry  sportsman  and  the  county 
squire.  The  conversation  sparkles  like  the  cham- 


ENGLAND. 


71 


paigne ; and  brilliant  wit,  which  has  been  corked  up 
all  day,  now  flows  unchecked.  In  the  evening,  the 
long  suite  of  rooms  are  in  a blaze  of  light,  and  the  del- 
icate exotics  of  the  conservatory  shining  in  the  light  of 
the  lamps  produce  a kind  of  artificial  summer.  Music 
and  dancing,  cards  and  conversation,  are  resorted  to  by 
turns.  The  sportsmen  recount  their  feats ; the  gourmand 
discusses  the  merits  of  the  dinner ; and  the  politicians 
sit  in  a nook  apart,  calculating  upon  the  probabilities 
of  a continental  war.  The  company  usually  disperse 
by  midnight,  the  ladies  to  recruit  their  looks  for  the 
next  London  season,  the  gentlemen  to  recruit  their 
strength  for  the  next  pheasant  hattue^  or  fox-chase. 
When  the  sporting  season  is  over,  the  guests  disperse, 
and  his  lordship  is  left  at  liberty  to  dispose  of  his  time, 
either  in  remaining  to  cultivate  the  acquaintance  of  his 
country  neighbors,  or  in  visiting  his  other  estates. 
The  Christmas  festivities  bring  a renewal  of  country 
gaiety.  A tour  to  the  continent  frequently  disposes  of 
the  remaining  months  till  politics  and  pleasure  recall 
the  noble  lord  to  London. 

Among  his  graceful  sketches  of  foreign  manners, 
Mr.  Willis  gives  us  the  following  description  of  a visit 
which  he  paid  the  Duke  of  Gordon  at  his  castle. 
Though  this  was  situated  in  the  north  of  Scotland,  the 
society  there  was  English,  and  the  delineations  may 
be  regarded  as  generally  descriptive  of  the  country 
life  of  the  higher  nobility  of  Great  Britain.  We  be- 
gin our  extract  at  a point  when  the  traveller  has  been 
shown  by  the  servant  to  his  room  in  the  castle. 

“ It  was  a mild,  bright  afternoon,  quite  warm  for  the 
end  of  an  English  September,  and  with  a fire  in  the 


72 


ENGLAND. 


room,  and  a soft  sunshine  pouring  in  at  the  windows 
a seat  by  the  open  casement  was  far  from  disagreeable. 
I passed  the  time  till  the  sun  set,  looking  out  on  the 
park.  Hill  and  valley  lay  between  my  eye  and  the 
horizon ; sheep  fed  in  picturesque  flocks ; and  small 
fallow  deer  grazed  near  them ; the  trees  were  planted, 
and  the  distant  forest  shaped  by  the  hand  of  taste  ; and 
broad  and  beautiful  as  was  the  expanse  taken  in  by 
the  eye,  it  was  evidently  one  princely  possession.  A 
mile  from  the  castle  wall,  the  shaven  sward  extended 
in  a carpet  of  velvet  softness,  as  bright  as  emerald, 
studded  by  clumps  of  shrubbery,  like  flowers  wrought 
elegantly  on  tapestry ; and  across  it  bounded  occasion- 
ally a hare,  and  the  pheasants  fed  undisturbed  near 
the  thickets,  or  a lady  with  flowing  riding-dress  and 
flaunting  feather,  dashed  into  sight  upon  her  fleet 
blood-palfrey,  and  was  lost  the  next  moment  in  the 
woods,  or  a boy  put  his  pony  to  its  mettle  up  the 
ascent,  or  a gamekeeper  idled  into  sight  with  his  gun 
in  the  hollow  of  his  arm,  and  his  hound  at  his  heels 
— and  all  this  little  world  of  enjoyment  and  luxury, 
and  beauty,  lay  in  the  hand  of  one  man,  and  was 
created  by  his  wealth  in  these  northern  wilds  of  Scot- 
land, a day’s  journey  almost  from  the  possession  of 
another  human  being.  I never  realized  so  forcibly  the 
splendid  result  of  wealth  and  primogeniture. 

“ The  sun  set  in  a blaze  of  fire  among  the  pointed 
firs  crowning  the  hills,  and  by  the  occasional  prance 
of  a horse’s  feet  on  the  gravel,  and  the  roll  of  rapid 
wheels,  and  now  and  then  a gay  laugh  and  merry 
voices,  the  different  parties  were  returning  to  the 
castle.  Soon  after,  a loud  gong  sounded  through  the 


ENGLAND. 


73 


gallery,  the  signal  to  dress,  and  I left  my  musing  occu- 
pation unwillingly  to  make  my  toilet  for  an  appearance 
in  a formidable  circle  of  titled  aristocrats,  not  one  of 
whom  I had  ever  seen,  the  duke  himself  a stranger  to 
me,  except  through  the  kind  letter  of  invitation  lying 
upon  the  table. 

“ I was  sitting  by  the  fire  imagining  forms  and  faces 
for  the  different  persons  who  had  been  named  to  me, 
when  there  was  a knock  at  the  door,  and  a tall,  white- 
haired  gentleman,  of  noble  physiognomy,  but  singu- 
larly cordial  address,  entered,  with  the  broad  red  riband 
of  a duke  across  his  breast,  and  welcomed  me  most 
heartily  to  the  castle.  The  gong  sounded  at  the  next 
moment,  and,  in  our  way  down,  he  named  over  his 
other  guests,  and  prepared  me  in  a measure  for  the 
introductions  which  followed.  The  drawing-room  was 
crowded  like  a soiree.  The  duchess,  a very  tall  and 
very  handsome  woman,  with  a smile  of  the  most  win- 
ning sweetness,  received  me  at  the  door,  and  I was 
presented  successively  to  every  person  present.  Din- 
ner was  announced  immediately,  and  the  difficult 
question  of  precedence  being  sooner  settled  than  I had 
ever  seen  it  before  in  so  large  a party,  we  passed 
through  files  of  servants  to  the  dining-room. 

“ It  was  a large  and  very  lofty  hall,  supported  at  the 
ends  by  marble  columns,  within  which  was  stationed  a 
band  of  music,  playing  delightfully.  The  walls  were 
lined  with  full-length  family  pictures,  from  old  knights 
in  armor  to  the  modern  dukes  in  kilt  of  the  Gordon 
plaid;  and  on  the  sideboards  stood  services  of  gold 
plate,  the  most  gorgeously  massive,  and  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  workmanship  I have  ever  seen.  There  werCi 
XIX. — 7 


74 


ENGLAND. 


among  the  vases,  several  large  coursing-cups,  won  by 
the  duke’s  hounds,  of  exquisite  shape  and  ornament. 

“ I fell  into  my  place  between  a gentleman  and  a very 
beautiful  woman,  of  perhaps  twenty-two,  neither  of 
whose  names  I remembered,  though  I had  but  just 
been  introduced.  The  duke  probably  anticipated  as 
much,  and  as  I took  my  seat  he  called  out  to  me,  from 
the  top  of  the  table,  that  I had  upon  my  right  Lady 

, ‘ the  most  agreeable  woman  in  Scotland.’  It 

was  unnecessary  to  say  that  she  was  the  most  lovely. 

“I  have  been  struck  everywhere  in  England  with  the 
beauty  of  the  higher  classes,  and  as  I looked  around 
me  upon  the  aristocratic  company  at  the  table,  I thought 
I never  had  seen  ‘ heaven’s  image  double-stamped  as 
man  and  noble  ’ so  unequivocally  clear.  There  were 
two  young  men  and  four  or  five  young  ladies  of  rank 
— and  five  or  six  people  of  more  decided  personal 
attractions  could  scarcely  be  found ; the  style  of  form 
and  face  at  the  same  time  being  of  that  cast  of  superi- 
ority which  goes  by  the  expressive  name  of  ‘ thorough- 
bred.’ There  is  a striking  difference  in  this  respect' 
between  England  and  the  countries  of  the  continent, 
— the  pay  sans  of  France  and  the  contadini  of  Italy 
being  physically  far  superior  to  their  degenerate  mas- 
ters ; while  the  gentry  and  nobility  of  England  differ 
from  the  peasantry  in  limb  and  feature  as  the  racer 
differs  from  the  dray-horse,  or  the  greyhound  from  the 
cur.  The  contrast  between  the  manners  of  English 
and  French  gentlemen  is  quite  as  striking.  The  em- 
pr^ssement,  the  warmth,  the  shrug  and  gesture  of  the 
Parisian ; and  the  working  eyebrow,  dilating  or  con- 
tracting eye,  and  conspirator-like  action  of  the  Italian 


ENGLAND. 


75 


in  the  most  common  conversation,  are  the  antipodes 
of  English  high  breeding.  I should  say  a North 
American  Indian,  in  his  more  dignified  phrase,  ap- 
proached nearer  to  the  manner  of  an  English  nobleman 
than  any  other  person.  The  calm  repose  of  person 
and  feature,  the  self-possession  under  all  circumstances, 
that  incapability  of  surprise  or  deregUment^  and  that 
decision  about  the  slightest  circumstance,  and  the 
apparent  certainty  that  he  is  acting  absolutely  comme 
il  faut^  is  equally  “gentlemanlike”  and  Indianlike. 
You  cannot  astonish  an  English  gentleman.  If  a man 
goes  into  a fit  at  his  side,  or  a servant  drops  a dish 
upon  his  shoulder,  or  he  hears  that  the  house  is  on 
fire,  he  sets  down  his  wine-glass  with  the  same  delib- 
eration. He  has  made  up  his  mind  what  to  do  in  all 
possible  cases,  and  he  does  it.  He  is  cold  at  a first 
introduction,  and  may  bow  stiffly  (which  he  always 
does)  in  drinking  wine  with  you,  but  it  is  his  manner ; 
and  he  would  think  an  Englishman  out  of  his  senses, 
who  should  bow  down  to  his  very*  plate  and  smile  as 
a Frenchman  does  on  a similar  occasion.  Rather 
chilled  by  this,  you  are  a little  astonished,  when  the 
ladies  have  left  the  table,  and  he  closes  his  chair  up 
to  you,  to  receive  an  invitation  to  pass  a month  with 
him  at  his  country  house,  and  to  discover  that  at  the 
very  moment  he  bowed  so  coldly  he  was  thinking  how 
he  should  contrive  to  facilitate  your  plans  for  getting 
to  him  or  seeing  the  country  to  advantage  on  the  way. 

“ The  band  ceased  playing  when  the  ladies  left  the 
table,  the  gentlemen  closed  up,  conversation  assumed 
a merrier  cast,  coffee  and  chasse-cafe  were  brought  in 
when  the  wines  began  to  be  circulated  more  slowly ; 


76 


ENGLAND. 


and  at  eleven,  there  was  a general  move  to  the  draw- 
ing-room. Cards,  tea  and  music  filled  up  the  time 
till  twelve,  and  then  the  ladies  took  their  departure 
and  the  gentlemen  sat  down  to  supper.  I got  to  bed 
somewhere  about  two  o’clock;  and  thus  ended  an 
evening  which  I had  anticipated  as  stiff  and  embar- 
rassing, but  which  is  marked  in  my  tablets  as  one  of 
the  most  social  and  kindly  I have  had  the  good  fortune 
to  record  on  my  travels. 

“ I arose  late  on  the  first  morning  after  my  arrival 
at  Gordon  Castle,  and  found  the  large  party  already 
assembled  about  the  breakfast-table.  I was  struck  on 
entering  with  the  different  air  of  the  room.  The  deep 
windows,  opening  out  upon  the  park,  had  the  effect 
of  sombre  landscapes  in  oaken  frames ; the  troops  of 
liveried  servants,  the  glitter  of  plate,  the  music,  that 
had  contributed  to  the  splendor  of  the  scene  the  night 
before,  were  gone ; the  duke  sat  laughing  at  the  head 
of  the  table,  with  a newspaper  in  his  hand,  dressed 
in  a coarse  shooting  jacket  and  colored  cravat;  the 
duchess  was  in  a plain  morning-dress  and  cap  of  the 
simplest  character ; and  the  high-born  women  about 
the  table,  whom  I had  left  glittering  with  jewels  and 
dressed  in  all  the  attractions  of  fashion,  appeared  with 
the  simplest  coiffure  and  a toilet  of  studied  plainness. 
The  ten  or  twelve  noblemen  present  were  engrossed 
with  their  letters  or  newspapers  over  tea  and  toast ; 
and  in  them,  perhaps,  the  transformation  was  still 
greater.  The  soigne  man  of  fashion  of  the  night 
before,  faultless  in  costume  and  distinguished  in  his 
appearance,  in  the  full  force  of  the  term,  was  envel- 
oped now  in  a coat  of  fustian^  with  a coarse  waistcoat 


ENGLAND. 


77 


of  plaid,  a gingham  cravat,  and  hob-nailed  shoes  (for 
shooting,)  and  in  place  of  the  gay  hilarity  of  the  sup- 
per-table, wore  a face  of  calm  indifference,  and  ate  his 
breakfast  and  read  the  paper  in  a rarely  broken  silence. 
I wondered,  as  I looked  about  me,  what  would  be  the 
impression  of  many  people  in  my  own  country,  could 
they  look  in  upon  that  plain  party,  aware  that  it  was 
composed  of  the  proudest  nobility  and  the  highest 
fashion  of  England. 

“ Breakfast  in  England  is  a confidential  and  uncere- 
monious hour,  and  servants  are  generally  dispensed 
with.  This  is  to  me,  I confess,  an  advantage  it  has 
over  every  other  meal.  I detest  eating  with  twenty 
tall  fellows  standing  opposite,  whose  business  it  is  to 
watch  me.  The  coffee  and  tea  were  on  the  table,  with 
toast,  muffins,  oat-cakes,  marmalade,  jellies,  fish,  and 
all  the  paraphernalia  of  a Scotch  breakfast ; and  on  the 
sideboard  stood  cold  meats  for  those  who  liked  them, 
and  they  were  expected  to  go  to  it  and  help  themselves. 
Nothing  could  be  more  easy,  unceremonious  and  affa- 
ble, than  the  whole  tone  of  the  meal.  One  after 
another  rose  and  fell  into  groups  in  the  windows,  or 
walked  up  and  down  the  long  room,  and,  with  one  or 
two  others,  I joined  the  duke  at  the  head  of  the  table, 
who  gave  us  some  interesting  particulars  of  the 'Salmon 
fisheries  in  the  Spey.  The  privilege  of  fishing  the 
river  within  his  lands,  is  bought  of  him  at  the  pretty 
sum  of  eight  thousand  pounds  a year  ! A salmon  was 
brought  in  for  me  to  see,  as  of  remarkable  size,  which 
was  not  more  than  half  the  weight  of  our  common 
American  salmon. 

“ The  ladies  went  off  unaccompanied  to  their  walks 
7* 


78 


ENGLAND. 


in  the  park  and  other  avocations ; those  hound  for  the 
covers  joined  the  game-keepers,  who  were  waiting 
with  their  dogs  in  the  leash  at  the  stables ; some  paired 
off  to  the  billiard-room,  and  I was  left  with  Lord 
Aberdeen  in  the  breakfast  room  alone.  The  tory  ex- 
minister  made  a thousand  inquiries,  with  great  appa- 
rent interest,  about  America.  When  secretary  for 
foreign  affairs  in  the  Wellington  cabinet,  he  had  known 
Mr.  McLane  intimately.  He  said  he  seldom  had  been 
so  impressed  with  a man’s  honesty  and  straight- 
forwardness, and  never  did  public  business  with  any 
one  with  more  pleasure.  He  admired  Mr.  McLane, 
and  hoped  he  enjoyed  his  friendship.  He  wished  he 
might  return  as  our  minister  to  England.  One  such 
honorable,  uncompromising  man,  he  said,  was  worth 
a score  of  practised  diplomatists.  He  spoke  of  Galla- 
tin and  Kush  in  the  same  flattering  manner,  but 
recurred  continually  to  Mr.  McLane,  of  whom  he 
could  scarcely  say  enough.  His  politics  would  natu- 
rally lead  him  to  approve  of  the  administration  of 
General  Jackson,  but  he  seemed  to  admire  the  presi- 
dent very  much  as  a man. 

“ Lord  Aberdeen  has  the  name  of  being  the  proud- 
est and  coldest  aristocrat  of  England.  It  is  amusing 
to  see  the  person  who  bears  such  a character.  He  is 
of  the  middle  height,  rather  clumsily  made,  with  an 
address  more  of  sober  dignity  than  of  pride  or  reserve. 
With  a black  coat  much  worn,  and  always  too  large 
for  him,  a pair  of  coarse  check  trousers  very  ill  made, 
a waistcoat  buttoned  up  to  his  throat,  and  a cravat  of 
the  most  primitive  neglige^  his  aristocracy  is  certainly 
not  in  his  dress.  His  manners  are  of  absolute  simpli- 


ENGLAND. 


79 


city,  amounting  almost  to  want  of  style.  He  crosses 
his  hands  behind  him,  and  balances  on  his  heels ; in 
conversation  his  voice  is  low  and  cold,  and  he  seldom 
smiles.  Yet  there  is  a certain  benignity  in  his  counte- 
nance, and  an  indefinable  superiority  and  high  breed- 
ing in  his  simple  address,  that  would  betray  his  rank 
after  a few  minutes’  conversation  to  any.shrewd  obser- 
ver. It  is  only  in  his  manner  toward  the  ladies  of  the 
party  that  he  would  be  immediately  distinguishable 
from  men  of  lower  rank  in  society. 

“ Still  suffering  from  lameness,  I declined  all  invita- 
tions to  the  shooting  parties-,  who  started  across  the 
park,  with  the  dogs  leaping  about  them  in  a phrensy 
of  delight,  and  accepted  the  duchess’s  kind  offer  of  a 
pony  phaeton  to  drive  down  to  the  kennels.  The 
duke’s  breed,  both  of  setters  and  hounds,  is  celebrated 
throughout  the  kingdom.  They  occupy  a spacious 
building  in  the  centre  of  a wood,  a quadrangle  enclos- 
ing a court,  and  large  enough  for  a respectable  poor- 
house.  The  chief  huntsman  and  his  family,  and 
perhaps  a gamekeeper  or  two,  lodge  on  the  premises, 
and  the  dogs  are  divided  by  palings  across  the  court 
I was  rather  startled  to  be  introduced  into  the  small 
enclosure  with  a dozen  gigantic  blood-hounds,  as  high 
as  my  breast,  the  keeper’s  whip  in  my  hand  the  only 
defence.  I was  not  easier  for  the  man’s  assertion  that, 
without  it,  they  would  ‘ hae  the  life  oot  o’  me  in  a 
crack.’  They  came  around  me  very  quietly,  and  one 
immense  fellow,  with  a chest  like  a horse,  and  a head 
of  the  finest  expression,  stood  up  and  laid  his  paws 
on  my  shoulders,  Avith  the  deliberation  of  a friend 
about  to  favor  me  with  some  grave  advice.  One  can 


so 


ENGLAND. 


scarce  believe  these  noble  creatures  have  not  reason 
like  ourselves.  Those  slender,  thorough-bred  heads, 
large,  speaking  eyes,  and  beautiful  limbs  and  graceful 
action  should  be  gifted  with  more  than  mere  animal 
instinct.  The  greyhounds  were  the  beauties  of  the 
kennel,  however.  I never  had  seen  such  perfect  crea- 
tures. ‘ Dinna  tak  pains  to  caress  ’em,  sir,’  said  the 
huntsman,  ‘ they  ’ll  only  be  hangit  for  it.’  I asked 
for  an  explanation,  and  the  man,  with  an  air  as  if  I was 
uncommonly  ignorant,  told  me  that  a hound  was  hung 
the  moment  he  betrayed  attachment  to  any  one,  or  in 
any  way  showed  signs  of  superior  sagacity.  In  cours- 
ing the  hare,  for  instance,  if  the  dog  abandoned  the 
scent  to  cut  across  and  intercept  the  poor  animal,  he 
was  considered  as  spoiling  the  sport.  Greyhounds  are 
valuable  only  as  they  obey  their  mere  natural  instinct, 
and  if  they  leave  the  track  of  the  hare,  either  in  their 
own  sagacity,  or  to  follow  their  master,  in  intercepting 
it,  they  spoil  the  pack,  and  are  hung  without  mercy. 
It  is  an  object,  of  course,  to  preserve  them  what  they 
usually  are,  the  greatest  fools  as  well  as  the  hand- 
somest of  the  canine  species,  and  on  the  first  sign  of 
attachment  to  their  master,  their  death-warrant  is 
signed.  They  are  too  sensible  to  live.  The  duchess 
told  me  afterward  that  she  had  the  greatest  difficulty 
in  saving  the  life  of  the  finest  hound  in  the  pack,  who 
had  committed  the  sin  of  showing  pleasure  once  or 
twice  when  she  appeared. 

“ The  setters  were  in  the  next  division,  and  really 
they  were  quite  lovely.  The  rare  tan  and  black  dog 
of  this  race,  with  his  silky,  floss  hair,  intelligent  muz- 
zle, good-humored  face  and  caressing  fondness  (lucky 


ENGLAND. 


81 


dog ! that  affection  is  permitted  in  his  family !)  quite 
excited  my  admiration.  There  were  thirty  or  forty 
of  these,  old  and  young ; and  a friend  of  the  duke’s 
would  as  soon  ask  him  for  a church  living  as  for  the 
present  of  one  of  them.  The  former  would  be  by 
much  the  smaller  favor.  Then  there  were  terriers  of 
four  or  five  breeds,  of  one  family  of  which  (long-haired, 
long-hodied,  short-legged  and  perfectly  white  little 
wretches)  the  keeper  seemed  particularly  proud.  I 
evidently  sunk  in  his  opinion  for  not  admiring  them. 

“ I passed  the  remainder  of  the  morning  in  threading 
the  lovely  alleys  and  avenues  of  the  park,  miles  after 
miles  of  gravel-walk,  extending  away  in  every  direc- 
tion, with  every  variety  of  turn  and  shade,  now  a deep 
wood,  now  a sunny  opening  upon  a glade,  here  along 
the  bank  of  a stream,  and  there  around  the  borders  of 
a small  lagoon,  the  little  ponies  flying  on  over  the 
smoothly-rolled  paths,  and  tossing  their  mimicking 
heads,  as  if  they  too  enjoyed  the  beauty  of  the  prince- 
ly domain.  This,  I thought  to  myself,  as  I sped  on 
through  light  and  shadow,  is  very  like  what  is  called 
happiness ; and  this  (if  to  be  a duke  were  to  enjoy  it 
as  I do  with  this  fresh  feeling  of  novelty  and  delight) 
is  a condition  of  life  it  is  not  quite  irrational  to  envy. 
And  giving  my  little  steeds  the  rein,  I repeated  to  my- 
self Scott’s  graphic  description,  which  seems  written 
for  the  park  of  Gordon  castle,  and  thanked  Heaven  for 
one  more  day  of  unalloyed  happiness. 

^ And  there  soft  swept  in  velvet  green, 

The  plain  with  many  a glade  between, 

Whose  tangled  alleys  far  invade 
The  depths  of  the  brown  forest  shide  j 


82 


ENGLAND. 


And  the  tall  fern  obscured  the  lawn, 

Fair  shelter  for  the  sportive  fawn. 

There,  tufted  close  with  copse- wood  green, 

Was  many  a swelling  hillock  seen, 

And  all  around  was  verdure  meet 
For  pressure  of  the  faries’  feet. 

The  glossy  valley  loved  the  park. 

The  yew-tree  lent  its  shadows  dark. 

And  many  an  old  oak  worn  and  bare 
With  all  its  shivered  boughs  was  there.’  ” 

Such  is  the  alluring  and  seductive  aspect  which 
life  assumes  with  the  English  nobility.  {But  there  is 
still  one  step  higher  in  the  gradations  of  rank.  Roy- 
alty is  above  mere  nobility.  Educated  in  a species 
of  every-day  protestantism  against  kings,  queens,  and 
princes,  we  Americans  can  hardly  comprehend  the 
depth  and  energy  of  English  loyalty.  It  is  unques- 
tionably the  strongest  sentiment  in  an  Englishman’s 
bosom.  He  will  hear  profanity  toward  God  with 
more  equanimity  than  contempt  of  the  king  or  queen. 
This  will  enable  us  to  understand  the  livel};^  and  lov- 
ing interest  with  which  the  whole  nation  read  ac- 
counts of  the  most  trifling  incidents  in  relation  to  the 
royal  family. 

To  us  it  is  amazing  as  well  as'umusing  to  look  over 
the  English  papers,  and  remark  the  regular  bulletins 
which  are  issued,  setting  forth  the  proceedings  of  the 
queen,  her  babies,  and  her  royal  consort.  It  is  said 
that  three  hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been  expend- 
ed in  pictures  of  the  queen  alone  ; and  it  may  be  easily 
believed,  for  not  only  are  there  pictures  of  her  without 
num.ber,  but  almost  every  event  of  her  life  is  represented 
by  wood  cuts  in  the  illustrated  newspapers.  Nor  is  this 


ENGLAND. 


83 


all — we  have  pictures  of  Prince  Albert  and  the  little 
Prince  of  Wales  ; of  the  queen’s  ponies,  poodles,  and 
pigeons  ; of  her  hens  and  chickens  ; her  coaches  and 
costumes — everything  indeed  that  belongs  to  her,  of 
which  a visible  representation  can  he  made. 

The  greediness  with  which  these  things  are  read, 
leads  the  editors  of  the  papers  to  seize  upon  every  in- 
cident fit  for  pictorial  representation,  and  the  ready  art- 
ist furnishes  a lively  and  effective  sketch,  of  course 
^Haken  on  the  spot^  The  following  fact  will  shoAV  the 
quackery  resorted  to  to  gratify  the  public  appetite  for 
Victoriana.  The  “ Illustrated  News  ” recently  pub- 
lished a “ correct  view,”  as  they  said,  of  a shearing  in 
Scotland,  at  which  the  queen  was  stated  to  have  been 
present.  There  were  the  sheep,  in  the  act  of  being 
denuded  of  their  natural  overcoats,  and  the  queen, 
looking  sympathizingly  at  the  undressed  mutton — as 
well  she  might,  the  season  being  the  latter  end  of  Sep- 
tember. It  appeared  afterwards,  however,  that  the 
shea/ring  at  which  her  majesty  was  present  was  a 
reaping — shearing  being  the  Scotch  for  that  operation. 
The  conductor  of  the  “News”  saw  from  the  Scotch 
papers  that  the  queen  had  been  at  a shearing,  and 
concluding  that  the  word  related  to  sheep,  perpetrated 
this  gross  blunder.  The  engraving  was  said  to  be 
“ from  a drawing  made  on  the  spot ! ” 

In  our  brief  space,  we  cannot  furnish  a better  idea  of 
the  pomp  and  circumstance  surrounding  the  throne  of 
England,  than  by  giving  the  following  account  from  a 
recent  English  paper. 

“ Lofty  was  the  ceremonial,  splendid  the  feast,  in 
Windsor  Castle  last  night;  when  Queen  Victoria’s 


Altar  for  the  Christening . 


ENGLAND. 


85 


second  son  was  christened.  Eoyal  visiters  began  to 
arrive  early  in  the  afternoon, — the  Duchess  of  Kent, 
the  Queen  Dowager,  with  Prince  Edward  of  Saxe 
Weimar,  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Cambridge  with  the 
Hereditary  Grand  Duke  and  Grand  Duchess  of  Meck- 
lenberg  Strelitz,  the  Duchess  of  Gloucester,  Prince 
William  of  Prussia  ; all  suitably  attended.  Many 
more  distinguished  visiters  also  came — foreign  minis- 
ters, cabinet  ministers,  and  others,  and  were  admitted 
to  seats  in  the  chapel.  The  sacred  place  was  gor- 
geously fitted  up  for  the  occasion : the  altar  covered 
with  crimson  velvet  and  gold,  and  illumined  by  wax 
lights  in  golden  candlesticks.  The  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  presided  at  the  altar,  aided  by  the  Bishop 
of  Norwich  and  the  Bishop  of  Oxford,  with  the 
Queen’s  and  Prince  Albert’s  chaplains.  After  six 
o’clock  all  was  ready,  and  the  royal  procession  entered 
the  chapel.  This  was  distinguished  from  previous 
pageants  by  the  presence  of  the  elder  children.  First 
came  some  officers  of  the  household.  Then  the  spon- 
sors— namely,  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  proxy  for 
Prince  George ; the  Duchess  of  Kent,  proxy  for  the 
Duchess  of  Saxe  Coburg  Gotha ; the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, proxy  for  the  Prince  of  Leiningen : followed 
by  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  their  suites.  More 
officers  of  the  household.  The  Queen,  leading  the 
Princess  Royal,  walked  with  Prince  William  of  Prus- 
sia by  her  side : Prince  Albert  was  beside  the  Queen 
Dowager,  and  led  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Then  came 
the  rest  of  the  royal  visiters  ; and  lastly,  more  officers. 
The  Queen  wore  a Avhite  satin  dress  trimmed  with 
Honiton  lace,  a diamond  tiara  on  her  head,  with  the 

F XIX. — 8 


S6 


ENGLAND. 


insignia  of  the  Garter  : the  little  children  were  dress- 
ed in  white  satin  and  lace ; the  princes  in  military 
uniforms.  ] The  service  began  with  Palestrina’s  ‘ 0 be 
joyful.’  When  the  music  ceased,  Prince  Albert’s 
Groom  of  the  Stole  conducted  into  the  chapel  the 
Dowager  Lady  Lyttleton,  bearing  the  royal  infant; 
who  was  baptized  by  the  Archbishop ; the  Duke  of 
Cambridge  giving  the  name — “ Alfred-Ernest- Albert.” 
His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Alfred  was  carried  out  of 
the  chapel  to  the  sound  of  Handel’s  Hallelujah  Chorus 
from  Judas  Maccabceus.  A benediction  closed  the 
service,  at  seven  o’clock ; and  the  procession  withdrew 
in  the  order  of  its  entrance. 

“ Within  half  an  hour  afterwards,  a bevy  of  guests 
entered  St.  George’s  Hall  for  the  banquet.  Number- 
less wax-lights  made  it  brighter  than  day ; the  tables 
and  sideboards,  covered  with  the  riches  of  the  house- 
hold treasury,  ‘ shone  all  with  gold  and  stones  that 
flame-like  blazed.’  The  Queen  sat  at  one  end  of  the 
table.  Prince  William  on  her  right,  the  Duke  her  un- 
cle on  her  left ; Prince  Albert  sat  at  the  other  end,  be- 
tween Queen  Adelaide  and  the  Duchess  of  Kent. 
More  royal  guests,  the  clergy,  cabinet  and  foreign 
ministers,  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  household  and 
of  the  several  suites,  surrounded  the  board.  The 
Steward  of  the  Household  gave  the  toasts,  beginning 
with  ‘ His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Alfred music 
playing  at  the  meal  and  between  the  toasts. 

“ After  dinner,  the  Queen  led  the  way  to  the  Wa- 
terloo Chamber ; where  a concert  was  performed  of 
instrumental  music  by  Beethoven,  Haydn,  Mayerbeer, 
Spohr,  Mendelssohn,  Bartholdy,  and  Weber.  Spohr’s 
piece  was  a manuscript  symphony,  describing  the 


ENGLAND. 


87 


moral  career  of  man — the  bright  innocence  of  child- 
hood, the  age  of  passion,  and  the  reign  of  mature  vir- 
tue : it  was  composed  for  two  orchestras,  and  was  per- 
formed accordingly,  by  eleven  solo-players  in  the  east 
gallery,  and  a numerous  orchestra  in  the  west  gallery, 
more  than  a hundred  feet  distant ; seventy  performers 
in  all.  Thus  the  rejoicings  terminated.’’ 

The  preceding  sketches  will  enable  the  reader  to 
form  some  idea  of  the  gorgeous  and  imposing  attributes 
with  which  royalty  is  clothed  in  England.  Though  the 
good  sense  of  the  people  forbid  the  Asiatic  belief  that 
the  sovereign  is  a divinity,  there  is  still  an  habitual  idol- 
atry toward  the  king  and  queen,  which  is  scarcely  less 
profound.  The  present  sovereign  is  seen  to  revolve 
in  an  orbit  of  peculiar  splendor,  and  her  sex,  youth, 
and  fair  fame,  have  added  a lively  personal  interest  to 
the  usual  attractions  of  the  occupant  of  the  throne. 

It  would  be  painful  to  turn  from  this  glittering  spec- 
tacle, to  what  are  termed  the  loioer  classes  of  England. 
While  the  brilliant  train  of  those  who  are  called  noble, 
are  rushing  by  in  wealth  and  splendor,  there  are  mil- 
lions of  suffering  beings  crushed  beneath  the  relentless 
wheels  of  pomp  and  power.  It  is  not  within  the  scope 
of  these  pages  to  exhibit  the  condition  of  the  people  of 
England,  and  if  it  were,  the  subject  is  too  familiar  to 
require  enlargement  here.  We  need  only  say  that 
the  pictures  of  poverty,  degradation  and  misery, 
throughout  the  three  kingdoms,  which  are  brought  to 
us  in  the  English  papers,  by  every  steamer,  are  in- 
deed frightful — and  it  would  seem  that  even  the  mu- 
sical voice  of  adulation  which  fills  the  ear  of  majesty, 
must  be  drowned  by  the  groans  of  suffering  millions 
throughout  the  realm. 


WALES. 


The  Welsh,  as  a relic  of  an  ancient  Celtic  people, 
possess  few  external  marks  of  their  origin.  They 
have,  to  a great  extent,  become  Anglicised  in  costume, 
and  we  should  in  vain  search  among  them  for  the 
hreacan^  or  chequered  clothing  of  their  Scythian  an- 
cestors. The  general  material  of  dress  is  home  made, 
or,  at  least,  a common  kind  of  woollen  cloth  and  flannel. 
The  women  wear  close-fitting  jackets  and  dark  brown 
or  striped  linsey-woolsey  petticoats.  The  most  re- 
markable part  of  the  Welsh  costume  is  the  hat  worn 
by  the  women.  All  females  in  the  parts  of  the  country 
not  modernized,  wear  round  black  hats,  like  those  of 
the  men,  and  this  usage  is  countenanced  to  some 
extent,  by  ladies  of  the  higher  ranks.  The  fashion  is 
derived  from  England,  but  it  is  two  or  three  centuries 
old.  Young  women  wear  mob  caps  pinned  under  the 
chin  ; the  older  ones  wrap  up  their  heads  in  two 
or  three  colored  handkerchiefs.  Both  young  and  old 
throw  a scarlet  whittle  over  their  shoulders,  except  in 
North  Wales,  where  this  is  replaced  by  a large  blue 
cloak  descending  to  the  feet,  which  is  worn  at  all  sea- 
sons, even  in  the  hottest  weather.  Linen  is  rarely 
used,  flannel  being  substituted  in  its  place.  Neither 
are  shoes  or  stockings  worn,  except  sometimes  in  fine 
weather,  and  then  they  are  carried  in  the  hand  if  the 


WALES. 


89 


woman  be  going  any  distance,  and  put  on  near  the 
place  of  destination. 

The  Welsh  peasantry  live  in  cottages,  which  are  in 
general  equally  wretched  without  and  within.  There 
is  a scantiness  of  furniture,  and  a great  absence  of 
comfort  in  the  rooms.  One  small  apartment  with  an 
uneven  mud  floor  contains  the  family  and  effects.  A 
miserably  small  window,  half  covered  with  paper 
panes,  admits  a scanty  portion  of  light : a bed  in  one 
corner,  and  one  or  two  turn-up  bedsteads,  looking  like 
chests  of  drawers  by  day,  show  the  room  to  be  both 
dormitory  and  kitchen.  The  bed  is  an  enormous 
square  thing  like  a closet,  opening  with  a kind  of  door 
at  the  side,  and  generally  containing  six  or  seven 
sleepers.  The  rest  of  the  furniture  consists  of  a table, 
a chair,  a stool  or  a bench,  a pitcher,  bucket,  &:c. 
The  more  ornamental  furniture  consists  of  a little 
earthenware  on  a rickety  shelf  or  dresser.  From  the 
ground  floor  you  not  unfrequently  look  into  the  loft, 
which  is  reached  by  a ladder  leading  to  an  opening  in 
the  ceiling,  if  the  rafters  have  any  ceiling  at  all.  This 
loft  is  rarely  occupied,  being  commonly  used  as  a 
receptacle  for  lumber.  It  is  surprising  to  see  the  num- 
ber of  persons  who  live  in  these  small  dwellings. 
Nine  or  ten  children  are  sometimes  counted  at  the 
door  of  a cottage  scarcely  larger  than  a sizeable  closet, 
all  of  whom,  with  their  parents,  eat,  drink  and  sleep 
within : these  creatures,  however,  look  ruddy  and 
healthy,  and  seem  not  to  know  that  they  are  packed 
almost  as  closely  as  bees  in  a hive.  A recent  traveller 
in  Wales  observes,  “ I have  seen  two  old  women  living 
together  in  a room  that  many  a dainty  well-styed  pig 
8* 


90 


WALES. 


would  grunt  and  turn  up  his  nose  at.  Two  beds 
entirely  filled  one  side  of  the  long,  narrow  apartment ; 
a little  table,  a chair  and  an  old  chest  lined  the  other, 
whilst  a mere  passage  in  the  middle  led  from  the 
door  to  the  fire-place,  by  which  the  poor  creatures  sat. 
There  was  no  symptom  of  a window.  Did  they  require 
light  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when  frost  and  snow  were 
biting  them,  they  were  obliged  to  open  the  door  to 
perform  their  necessary  duties,  even  though  the  white 
flakes  darted  in  upon  their  scanty  furniture,  and  the 
cold  blast  whistled  through  the  hovel,  whilst  their 
aged  limbs  shook  and  vibrated  to  it.” 

The  Welsh  market-women  are  exceedingly  good 
riders ; they  sit  on  their  horses  as  squarely  and  easily 
as  they  would  in  an  arm  chair.  They  wear  large  red 
cloaks  and  shawls ; and  a ludicrous  incident  once 
occurred  of  a body  of  French  invaders  being  seized 
with  a panic  and  retreating  to  the  coast,  at  the  sight 
of  a phalanx  of  mounted  Welsh  wives  descending  a 
hill.  The  horse  is  commonly  well  laden ; the  tips  of 
his  ears  and  of  his  tail,  with  a portion  of  his  legs  and 
feet,  are  alone  visible  on  one  side.  In  front  sits  a jolly 
farmer’s  wife,  with  a round  face  and  a broad  hat ; 
each  cheek  discovers  the  flap  of  a very  stiff*  cap,  the 
borders  of  which  nearly  meet  under  the  chin.  A red 
cloak  falls  from  her  shoulders  and  almost  covers  the 
horse ; beneath  the  cloak,  a dark  striped  petticoat  of 
coarse  woollen  material  reaches  nearly  to  the  shoes, 
which  are  very  substantial  although  ill-shaped.  One 
hand  carelessly  holds  the  bridle,  the  other  grasps 
with  care  a huge  basket.  The  dame  disdains  a whip, 
or  the  horse  requires  none — as  he  jogs  on  at  a steady. 


I 


WALES. 


91 


untiring  pace.  Behind,  on  the  same  horse,  sits  a 
ruddy-faced,  strapping  girl  of  about  eighteen,  the  age 
at  which  Welsh  females  mature  into  prettiness.  There 
is  more  attention  to  show  in  her  costpme.  Her 
rounded  figure  is  shrouded  by  no  cloak,  hut  a neat 
crimson  handkerchief  is  pinned  tightly  over  her 
shoulders,  and  as  the  loose  outer  skirt  of  her  gown 
falls  back,  it  displays  a petticoat  of  fine  material  striped 
with  red.  Look  a little  further  up  the  road,  and  you 
will  see  a similar  pair,  the  hindermost  of  which  has  a 
baby  in  her  lap,  whose  disposition  is  none  of  the 
quietest,  for  he  claps  his  little  hands  with  glee  at  every 
jog  of  the  animal  they  are  riding. 

At  a marriage  among  the  lower  classes  in  Wales 
there  must  be  a staffell^  which  corresponds  with  the 
trousseau  of  the  French,  though  it  embraces  a greater 
number  of  articles  than  that  fashionable  appendage  to 
a lady’s  bridal.  The  generosity  and  attachment  of  the 
man,  do  not,  generally  speaking,  make  him  unmindful 
of  his  household  comforts,  which  he  expects  his  in- 
tended wife  to  provide  for  him  before  he  takes  her  for 
better  or  worse.  The  earliest  and  most  earnest  desire 
of  a Welsh  woman  is  to  procure  a good  staffell.  For 
instance  : a girl  enters  service  at  the  age  of  sixteen, 
and  she  may  remain  at  service  till  thirty,  before  she 
has  completed  her  staffell.  With  the  first  five  shillings 
of  her  earnings  she  buys  two  cups  with  red  and  yellow 
birds  upon  them,  a jug,  a pictured  plate,  a teacup  and 
saucer.  It  is  true  she  is  in  want  of  a new  gown,  and 
is  obliged  to  go  without  stockings,  except  on  Sundays, 
but  what  of  that?  Two  cups,  a jug,  &:c.  are  the 
beginning  of  a staffell,  and  she  knows  that  without  a 


92 


WALES. 


stafTell  she  can  never  get  a husband.  Year  after  year 
she  is  constantly  adding  to  these  articles  of  earthen- 
ware. Not  a fair  or  market  does  she  visit  without 
picking  up  something.  There  seems  to  be  a strange 
fancy  for  jugs  in  this  business.  The  traveller  above 
quoted  says,  “ Upon  a certain  shelf  in  her  mother’s 
house,  and  under  lock  and  key,  may  be  seen  some 
twenty  or  thirty  jugs  of  all  forms,  and  ornamented 
with  every  species  of  device  ; large  jugs  and  small 
jugs,  tall  jugs  and  short  jugs,  some  painted  over  with 
flowers,  trees,  birds  and  houses,  and  others  with  men, 
horses  and  hounds.  She  has  tea  cups  and  saucers 
without  end ; plates  with  little  similarity  of  form  or 
size ; drinking  ciips  in  equal  profusion ; one  or  two 
choice  glasses ; several  little  china  sheep  and  lambs, 
with  trees  growing  out  of  their  tails,  and  not,  like  the 
one  which  sheltered  Baron  Munchausen,  proceeding 
from  the  back  of  the  animals  ; spoons  that  try  to  per- 
suade you  they  are  silver ; a deep  blue  thick  glass 
teapot,  (fee.  All  these  she  has,  and  much  more, 
which  has  absorbed  her  income,  or  a considerable  part 
of  it,  from  the  age  of  sixteen  to  thirty.  Wonder  not, 
oh  ye  damsels ! at  Sally’s  early  efforts  at  staffell-mak- 
ing.  I know  a respectable  old  maid  who  has  been 
keeping  company  with  a smart  widower  for  the  last 
twenty  years,  and  whose  banns  have  actually  been 
published  half  a dozen  times,  yet  whose  devoted  lover 
will  not  marry  her  because  her  staffell  has  not  yet 
attained  the  size  and  substance  he  thinks  necessary  for 
domestic  comfort.” 

It  has  often  been  observed  that  civilization  and 
knowledge  have  not  made  the  same  advances  in  the 


WALES. 


93 


Highlands  as  in  the  Lowlands  of  Scotland ; and  the 
observation  is  as  applicable,  perhaps,  to  Wales  and 
England ; in  other  words,  the  Highlanders  are  to  the 
Lowlanders  what  the  Welsh  are  to  the  English,  al- 
though knowledge  is  gradually  dispelling  the  dark- 
ness in  which  the  inhabitants  of  both  countries  were 
so  long  benighted.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  there 
are  few  absurd  superstitions  or  ridiculous  customs  be- 
lieved or  observed  by  the  Welsh,  to  which  analogies 
may  not  be  found  in  the  mountains  of  Caledonia.  The 
Welsh  “raptures”  and  the  “second  sight”  of  the 
Highlanders  derive  their  origin  from  the  same  source, 
and  both  may  be  traced  to  the  period  of  the  Druids. 
The  Welsh  prophets,  or  poets  or  rhapsodists,  are  call- 
ed Awenddion : they  are  a class  of  persons  who  in- 
dulge in  poetical  raptures,  and  like  the  ancient  sibyls, 
prophesy  in  incoherent  rhapsodies.  The  prophet  is 
carried  out  of  himself,  or  is  possessed  by  a spirit,  and 
the  only  difficulty  consists  in  attaching  a meaning  to 
his  wild  utterances ; for  as  soon  as  he  returns  to  his 
usual  state,  he  is  supposed  to  forget  all  his  poetic  or 
insane  effusions.  It  is  but  right  to  add  that  such  ora- 
cles are  now  seldom  consulted,  and  only  in  the  most 
sequestered  and  thinly  peopled  parts  of  the  country. 

Among  a variety  of  Welsh  customs,  those  in  court- 
ship, marriage,  and  at  funerals,  excite  particular  atten- 
tion. Hymenial  negotiations  are  frequently  carried 
on  by  the  Welsh  peasantry  in  bed.  The  young  swain 
goes  sometimes  several  miles  to  visit  the  object  of  his 
choice  at  her  residence — the  lovers  retire  to  a bed- 
chamber, and  between  two  blankets  converse  on  those 
subjects  which  the  occasion  suggests.  This  usage  is 


94 


WALES. 


confined  to  the  laboring  classes  of  the  community,  and 
is  scarcely  ever  productive  of  those  improprieties 
which  might  naturally  be  expected.  Previous  to  the 
celebration  of  a wedding,  a friend  undertakes  the 
office  of  a bidder,  and  goes  round  the  neighborhood  to 
invite  all  persons  of  nearly  the  same  situation  of  life 
as  the  contracting  parties.  In  consequence,  the  friends 
and  neighbors  for  a great  distance  round,  make  a point 
of  attending  the  wedding,  laden  with  presents  of  money, 
butter,  cheese,  &c. ; these  are  carefully  recorded  by 
the  clerk  of  the  wedding,  opposite  to  each  respective 
name,  and  are  to  be  repaid  in  the  same  public  manner 
when  occasion  offers.  This  ancient  custom  is  consid- 
ered as  established  by  law,  and  the  sums  may  be  legally 
recovered  in  court,  but  a sense  of  the  reciprocal  duty 
generally  prevents  litigation. 

The  funerals  in  Wales  are  attended  by  greater 
crowds  of  people  than  even  the  weddings.  When  the 
procession  sets  out,  every  person  kneels,  and  the  min- 
ister repeats  the  Lord’s  Prayer.  At  every  cross  way 
the  same  ceremony  is  repeated,  till  they  arrive  at  the 
church,  the  intervals  of  time  being  filled  by  singing 
psalms  and  hymns.  A remarkable  custom  prevails  in 
some  parts  of  Wales,  of  planting  the  graves  of  depart- 
ed friends  with  various  evergreens  and  flowers.  Box, 
and  other  plants  fit  for  edging,  are  planted  round  in 
the  shape  of  the  grave  for  a border,  and  the  flowers  are 
placed  within,  so  that  the  taste  of  the  living  may  be 
known  by  the  manner  of  embellishing  these  mansions 
of  the  dead.  The  snow-drop,  violet,  and  primrose  de- 
note the  infant  dust ; the  rocket,  rose,  and  woodbine 
show  maturer  years  ; while  tansy,  rue,  and  star-wort 


WALES. 


95 


mark  declining  years.  Each  grave  has  its  little  ever- 
green— fond  emblem  of  that  perennial  state  where 
change  is  known  no  more. 

It  has  been  observed  that  mountainous  scenery  is 
peculiarly  friendly  to  those  aerial  and  imaginary  exis- 
tences which  constitute  the  objects  of  superstition. 
This  is  exemplified  in  Wales.  The  belief  in  witchcraft 
is  still  strong ; many  are  the  fatal  effects  supposed  to 
be  produced  by  supernatural  agents ; and  many  are  the 
charms  which  are  believed  to  be  more  or  less  efficacious 
in  averting  the  wrath  of  these  unfriendly  bjeings.  A 
horse-shoe,  a cross,  or  a circular  stone,  may  be  seen 
in  almost  every  house,  and  the  hypericum,  or  St.  John’s 
wort,  which  has  now  almost  as  many  mystical  virtues 
as  were  formerly  attributed  to  the  veronica  of  the 
Druids,  is  scattered  at  the  entrance  of  many  a cottage 
on  the  vigil  of  St.  John.  Witches  are  believed  to  be 
malevolent,  and  it  is  of  much  consequence  to  conciliate 
them,  for  they  are  dreaded  as  having  the  power  to 
commit  great  mischief.  Many  old  women,  on  account 
of  their  age  or  deformity,  bear  the  odium  of  preventing 
the  cows  from  yielding  milk,  the  butter  from  forming 
in  the  churn,  and  of  spreading  diseases  among  men 
and  cattle.  The  spirits  of  the  mountains,  celebrated 
by  the  Welsh  bards,  are,  on  the  contrary,  benevolent 
beings — they  protect  the  good  and  punish  the  wicked ; 
and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  elves,  fays  or  fairies, 
that  are  supposed  still  to  dance  by  the  light  of  the 
moon,  and  describe  their  circles  on  the  green  hills  of 
Wales.  In  some  degree  connected  with  fairies  is 
another  species  of  supernatural  beings  called  knockers. 
These,  the  Welsh  miners  say,  are  not  to  be  seen,  but 


96 


WALES. 


are  heard  under  ground,  in  or  near  the  mines,  and  by 
their  noises,  which  represent  the  different  stages  in  the 
progress  of  mining,  generally  point  out  to  the  work- 
men a rich  vein  of  ore.  An  opinion  is  prevalent  with- 
in the  diocese  of  St.  David’s,  that  previous  to  the 
death  of  a person,  a light  is  sometimes  seen  to  pro- 
ceed from  the  house  and  pursue  its  way  to  the  church, 
precisely  in  the  track  that  the  funeral  will  afterwards 
follow.  This  is  traditionally  ascribed  to  the  special 
prayer  of  St.  David,  that  no  one  in  his  diocese  should 
die  without  this  intimation  of  departure,  which  is  call- 
ed canwyll  corple^  or  the  “ corpse  candle.” 


SCOTLAND. 


Very  little  of  the  ancient  national  costume  of  the 
Scotch  remains  at  the  present  day.  The  inhabitants 
of  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  and  other  cities  and  towns 
of  Scotland,  are  dressed  in  precisely  the  same  fashion 
as  those  of  London.  The  original  dress  of  the  Scotch 
Highlanders  resembled  that  of  other  Celtic  tribes,  and 
XIX. — 9 


98 


SCOTLAND. 


consisted  of  little  else  than  a woollen  garment  of  va- 
riegated colors  wrapped  round  the  body  and  loins, 
with  a portion  hanging  down  to  cover  the  thighs.  In 
process  of  time  this  rude  fashion  was  superseded  by  a 
distinct  piece  of  cloth  forming  a philibeg  or  kilt,  while 
another  piece  was  thrown  loosely  as  a mantle  over 
the  body  and  shoulders.  The  ciolh  was  variegat- 
ed in  conformity  with  the  prescribed  symbol  of  the 
clan. 

As  modernized  and  improved  by  the  Highland  regi- 
ments, this  dress  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
graceful  in  the  world ; though  it  leaves  the  limbs  bare 
about  the  knee,  the  Highlanders  never  suffer  any  in- 
convenience from  it,  even  in  the  coldest  weather.  The 
bonnet  has  been  for  ages  a part  of  the  Highland  cos- 
tume, as  it  was  formerly  of  the  Lowlanders.  The  full 
dress  of  the  Highland  chiefs  and  gentlemen  is  liberally 
adorned  with  sword,  baldric,  dirk,  large  brooches, 
buckles,  shot-pouch  and  purse.  The  purse  or  sporan 
is  a most  important  part  of  the  costume  ; it  is  formed 
of  the  skin  of  a wild  animal  with  the  hair  on,  and  tied 
to  the  waste  by  a band ; it  hangs  down  in  front  so  as 
to  fall  easily  upon  the  lap.  It  is  usually  ornamented 
with  silver  tags  or  tassels,  and  a flap  covering  the 
mouth  of  the  purse  is  sometimes  decorated  with  the 
vizard  of  a fox. 

After  a period  of  indifference  as  to  the  preservation 
of  this  beautiful  costume,  there  has  latterly  sprung  up 
a more  national  tone  of  feeling  on  the  subject,  both 
among  the  Lowlanders  and  Highlanders.  Encour- 
aged by  prizes  liberally  awarded  by  the  Caledonian 
Society  of  London,  a public  exhibition  takes  place  tri- 


SCOTLAND. 


99 


ennially  at  Edinburgh,  at  which  there  is  a competition 
of  skill  in  playing  the  Highland  bagpipes,  dancing, 
and  taste  in  dressing  in  proper  holiday  costume.  A 
hundred  or  more  men  generally  attend  from  all  parts 
of  the  Highlands  in  their  respective  clan  tartans ; and 
the  exhibition,  as  a surviving  relic  of  manners  and 
customs  among  the  most  ancient  in  the  world,  is  high- 
ly interesting. 

In  the  Lowlands,  the  gray  checked  plaid  has  resist- 
ed all  innovations,  and  is  universally  worn  by  shep- 
herds and  other  persons  in  rural  districts  of  the  coun- 
try. The  chequering  is  very  simple,  consisting  only 
of  small  cross  bars  of  white  and  black,  and  the  general 
effect  is  gray.  The  length  is  greater  than  the  breadth, 
to  enable  the  wearer  to  wrap  one  end  round  his  body 
and  shoulders,  and  allow  the  other  to  hang  gracefully 
down  the  back.  The  right  arm  is  generally  left  dis- 
engaged. The  dress  of  the  females  consists  of  a white 
mob  cap,  a short  gown  of  coarse  print,  and  a coarse 
woollen  petticoat,  either  dark  blue  or  red.  The  sleeves 
are  usually  tucked  up  above  the  elbow.  Sometimes 
they  have  coarse  shoes  and  stockings,  but  great  num- 
bers go  barefoot.  Sam  Foote  once  told  a story  of  his 
attending  at  kirk  in  Scotland  where  the  preacher 
was  declaiming  against  luxury,  and,  says  he,  “ there 
was  not  a pair  of  shoes  in  the  whole  congregation.” 

The  gentlemen  in  the  Highlands,  especially  in  time 
of  war,  wear  the  tartan,  the  peculiar  dress  of  that 
country.  Among  the  other  classes,  the  Scottish  bon- 
net is  now  rarely  seen  except  in  the  Highlands ; it 
was  the  usual  covering  for  the  head  all  over  Europe, 
till  towards  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when  the 


100 


SCOTLAND. 


hat,  formerly  worn  only  in  riding  or  hunting,  came 
into  general  use.  The  Scotch  peasantry  are  now 
generally  clothed  in  good  broadcloth,  worsted  stock- 
ings and  stout  shoes,  instead  of  the  homespun  garments, 
and  nudity  of  the  lower  extremities.  This  last  singu- 
larity, common  in  Wales,  and  even  in  England  about 
two  centuries  ago,  is  mostly  abandoned,  even  by  the 
Scotch  lasses.  In  the  Highlands,  the  distinction  of 
dress  which  still  prevails,  proves  the  most  fatal  imped- 
iment to  the  progress  of  civilization  by  fostering  na- 
tional prejudices. 

In  the  luxuries  of  the  table,  the  superior  classes  of 
the  Scotch  rival  the  English,  and  the  gentlemen  are 
perhaps  rather  more  fond  of  wine.  The  abundance 
and  beauty  of  the  table-linen  are  highly  praised  by 
strangers.  Several  national  dishes,  formerly  served 
up  at  the  best  tables,  and  originating  from  the  French 
cooking  in  the  reign  of  Mary,  are  now  either  neglect- 
ed or  abandoned  to  the  lower  classes,  such  as  the  hag- 
gis or  hachis ; the  cock-a-leekie^  or  capon  boiled  with 
leeks ; crapped  heads  or  stewed  haddocks,  the  heads 
being  stuffed  with  a kind  of  forced-meat  balls,  &c. 
The  diet  of  the  lower  classes  deteriorates  in  a gradual 
transition  from  the  English  border  northward.  The 
chief  food  is  parritch,  a thick  porridge  made  of  oat- 
meal, savored  with  a relish  of  milk,  ale,  or  butter ; in 
a hard,  lumpy  form  it  is  called  brose.  With  this  the 
laborer  is  generally  contented  twice  or  thrice  in  the 
day,  with  a little  bit  of  meat  for  Sunday.  He  envies 
not  the  English  laborer  his  bacon,  it  being  a food 
which  he  commonly  detests,  for  the  Scotch  have  an 
old  antipathy  to  swine  as  impure  animals,  into  which 


SCOTLAND. 


101 


the  demons  passed,  as  mentioned  in  the  New  Testa- 
ment. A similar  antipathy  prevails  against  eels,  from 
their  resemblance  to  a snake,  and  particularly  to  the 
old  serpent.  A great  luxury  to  a Scotchman  is  a 
singed  sheep’s  head.  In  the  matter  of  drink,  the  low- 
er classes  of  Scotland  were  little  given  to  intemper- 
ance till  a series  of  injudicious  laws  and  regulations 
reduced  the  wholesome  malt  liquors  to  little  better 
than  mere  water,  and  in  a manner  compelled  the  com- 
mon people  to  resort  to  the  noxious  beverage  of  whis- 
ky. In  general,  however,  their  sobriety  is  exemplary, 
and  the  Scotch  laborer,  instead  of  wasting  his  weekly 
gains  at  an  alehouse,  is  ambitious  to  appear  with  his  fam- 
ily in  decent  clothes  on  Sundays  and  other  holidays. 
This  may  be  regarded  as  a striking  characteristic  of 
the  Scotch  peasantry,  who  generally  prefer  the  lasting 
decencies  of  life  to  momentary  gratifications. 

The  amusements  of  the  rich  are  similar  to  those 
of  the  English,  but  those  of  the  peasantry  have  many 
variations.  The  game  of  curling  consists  in  roll- 
ing large  stones  with  iron  handles  upon  the  ice,  to- 
ward a fixed  mark,  a favorite  and  healthy  diversion  in 
the  winter.  The  English  quoits  are  supplied  by^e?z- 
ny-stones,  or  round,  flat  stones,  which  are  tossed  in  the 
same  manner. 

If  the  Scotch  are  not  cheerful  they  are  even-tem- 
pered, and  at  times  they  are  given  to  merriment.  At 
Edinburgh,  on  the  last  night  of  the  year,  it  is  the  cus- 
tom to  sup  abroad.  At  midnight,  on  the  striking  of 
the  bells,  the  people  sally  forth  in  such  numbers,  that 
all  the  inhabitants  seem  to  be  out  of  doors.  It  is  a 
night  of  revelry  ; the  watchmen  retire  fron^  their 
G 9* 


102 


SCOTLAND. 


rounds,  and  anybody  who  is  abroad,  by  accident  or  de- 
sign, is  liable  to  be  saluted  with  a kiss,  and  the  severi- 
ty of  the  custom  is  seldom  relaxed  in  favor  of  any 
rank.  The  Highlanders  are  very  social,  and  their 
suppers  are  delightful  meetings  ; they  are  held  about 
nine  o’clock,  and  the  compan^r  separate  before  mid- 
night. These  meetings  have  little  formality,  but  great 
freedom  and  cheerfulness.  When  they  separate,  they 
join  hands  and  sing  some  little  favorite  song. 

The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Scotch  have  lately 
begun  to  assimilate  more  closely  with  those  of  the 
English.  In  their  religious  ceremonies  attending  bap- 
tism and  marriage,  there  are  variations  arising  from 
the  Presbyterian  form,  which  does  not  admit  of  god- 
fathers or  godmothers,  but  renders  the  parents  alone 
answerable  for  the  education  of  the  child.  The  cler- 
gyman does  not  attend  at  funerals,  nor  is  there  any  reli- 
gious service,  but  generally  great  decency.  The  hearse 
seems  a more  appropriate  machine  than  the  close 
wagon  so  called  in  England,  being  a light  and  lofty 
carriage  of  trellis-work,  painted  black  and  spotted  with 
the  resemblance  of  falling  tears,  an  idea  derived  from 
the  ancient  French  ceremonies,  as  may  be  observed  in 
Montfaucon’s  collection.  Among  the  lower  classes  the 
funerals  are  generally  far  more  numerously  attended 
than  in  England  ; nor  is  black  an  indispensable  color 
of  dress  on  such  occasions. 

The  houses  of  the  opulent  have  long  been  erected 
on  the  English  plan,  which  can  hardly  be  surpassed 
for  interior  elegance  or  convenience.  Even  the  habi- 
tations of  the  poor  have  been  greatly  improved  within 
these  few  years,  and  instead  of  the  mud  hovel  thatched 


SCOTLAND, 


:o3 

with  straw,  there  often  appears  the  neat  stone  cottage 
covered  with  tile  or  slate.  Whence  the  ancient  custom 
arose  of  placing  the  dunghill  in  front  of  the  house, 
cannot  well  be  imagined.  Perhaps  it  was  intended 
as  a defence ; and  if  so,  it  is  useless  in  pacific  times. 
Some  persons  are  of  opinion  that  it  was  meant  as  a 
display  of  opulence. 

Among  the  Scottish  superstitions,  the  most  remark- 
able is  that  in  relation  to  what  is  called  second  sight — 
a power  believed  to  be  possessed  by  certain  persons  in 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  the  isles  of  the  western 
coast,  of  foreseeing  future  events,  particularly  of  a 
disastrous  kind,  by  means  of  a spectral  exhibition  of 
the  persons  to  whom  these  events  relate,  accompanied 
with  such  emblems  as  denote  their  fate.  This  power 
has  been  attested  by  many  credible  authors,  among 
whom  is  Mr.  Martin,  author  of  the  natural  history  of 
the  Western  Islands,  and  however  strange  it  may 
appear,  many  have  steadily  believed  it.  The  second 
sight  is  a faculty  of  seeing  things  to  come,  or  things 
done  at  a great  distance,  represented  to  the  imagination 
as  if  actually  visible  and  present.  Thus  if  a man  be 
dying,  or  about  to  die,  his  image,  it  is  pretended,  will 
appear  distinctly  in  its  natural  shape,  in  a shroud,  with 
other  funeral  apparatus,  to  a second-sighted  person, 
who,  perhaps,  never  saw  his  face  before,  immediately 
after  which  the  person  so  seen  certainly  dies.  This 
power,  they  say,  is  not  hereditary  ; the  person  who 
has  it  cannot  exert  it  at  pleasure,  nor  can  he  prevent 
it,  nor  communicate  it  to  another ; but  it  comes  on  him 
involuntarily,  and  exercises  itself  on  him  arbitrarily, 
and  often,  especially  in  the  younger  seers,  to  their 


104 


SCOTLAND. 


great  trouble  and  terror.  At  the  sight  of  a vision  the 
eyelids  of  the  person  are  erected,  and  the  eyes  con- 
tinue staring  till  the  object  vanishes.  The  seer  knows 
neither  the  object,  time,  nor  place  of  a vision  before  it 
appears,  and  the  same  object  is  often  seen  by  different 
persons  living  at  a considerable  distance  from  each 
other. 

If  an  object  is  seen  early  in  the  morning,  which  is 
not  common,  the  event  will  be  accomplished  within  a 
few  hours.  If  at  noon,  it  will  take  place  some  time 
during  the  day.  If  in  the  evening,  perhaps  that  night. 
If  later,  in  a certain  number  of  weeks,  months  or 
years,  according  to  the  lateness  of  the  hour.  When  a 
shroud  is  perceived  about  a person,  it  is  a sure  prog- 
nostic of  death ; the  time  is  judged  according  to  the 
height  of  it  upon  an  individual  : if  it  is  not  seen 
above  the  middle,  death  is  not  expected  within  a year ; 
the  higher  it  ascends  towards  the  head,  the  nearer  the 
event  is  judged  to  be  at  hand.  If  a woman  is  seen 
standing  at  a man’s  left  hand,  it  is  a presage  that  she 
will  be  his  wife.  Visiters  are  seen  coming  to  houses 
before  their  arrival,  and  the  seers  give  accurate  de- 
scriptions of  their  stature,  complexion,  dress,  &;c.,  which 
are  sure  to  be  verified  by  the  event,  as  we  are  assured 
by  Martin,  who  says,  “ I have  been  seen  thus  myself 
by  seers  of  both  sexes,  at  some  hundred  miles’  distance ; 
some  that  saw  me  in  this  manner  had  never  seen  me 
personally,  and  it  happened  according  to  their  visions, 
without  any  previous  design  of  mine  to  go  to  those 
places,  my  coming  there  being  purely  accidental.”  It 
is  common  with  these  persons  to  see  houses,  gardens 
and  trees,  in  places  void  of  these  objects.  Thus  at 


SCOTLAND. 


105 


Mogstot,  in  the  Isle  of  Sky,  as  we  are  informed  by 
the  above  author,  such  things  were  visible  to  a seer, 
although  there  were  hone  such  on  the  spot ; hut  a few 
years  after,  several  good  houses  were  built,  and 
orchards  planted  there.  A person  might  exercise  this 
species  of  second  sight  in  the  United  States,  without 
gaining  the  reputation  of  a necromancer. 

Children,  horses  and  cows  have  the  faculty  of 
second  sight,  as  well  as  men  and  women.  “ That 
children  see,”  says  Martin,  “ it  is  plain,  from  their 
crying  aloud  at  the  very  instant  that  a corpse  or  any 
other  vision  appears  to  an  ordinary  seer.  I was  pres- 
ent in  a house  where  a child  cried  out  of  a sudden, 
and  being  asked  the  reason  of  it,  he  answ^ered  that  he 
had  seen  a great  white  thing  lying  on  the  hoard  w^hich 
was  in  the  corner ; hut  he  was  not  believed  until  a 
seer,  who  was  present,  told  them  that  the  child  was  in 
the  right,  ‘ For,’  said  he,  ‘ I saw  a corpse  and  the  shroud 
about  it,  and  the  board  will  be  used  as  part  of  a coffin, 
or  some  way  employed  about  a corpse,’  and  accord- 
ingly it  was  made  into  a coffin  for  one  who  was  in 
perfect  health  at  the  time  of  the  vision ! That  horses 
see,  it  -is  likewise  plain  from  their  violent  and  sudden 
starting,  when  the  rider  or  seer  in  company  with  him 
sees  a vision  of  any  kind,  night  or  day.  It  is  observ- 
able of  the  horse  that  he  will  not  go  forward  that  way 
until  he  be  led  about  at  some  distance  from  the  com- 
mon road,  and  then  he  is  in  a sweat.  A horse  fastened 
Oy  the  common  road,  on  the  side  of  Loch  Skeriness, 
in  Sky,  did  break  his  rope  at  noon  day  and  run  up 
and  down  without  the  least  visible  cause.  But  two  of 
the  neighborhood  that  happened  to  be  at  a little  dis- 


106 


SCOTLAND. 


tance,  and  in  view  of  the  horse,  did  at  the  same  time 
see  a considerable  number  of  men  about  a corpse  direct- 
ing their  course  to  the  church  of  Snisort ; and  this  was 
accomplished  within  a few  days  after,  by  the  death  of 
a gentlewoman  who  lived  thirteen  miles  from  that 
church,  and  came  from  another  parish,  from  whence 
very  few  came  to  Snisort  to  be  buried.  That  cows 
see  the  second  sight  appears  from  this : that  when  a 
woman  is  milking  a cow  and  then  happens  to  see  the 
second  sight,  the  cow  runs  away  in  a great  fright  at 
the  same  time,  and  will  not  be  pacified  for  some  time 
after.”  Martin  relates  minutely  a great  number  of 
stories  similar  to  the  above,  in  all  of  which  he  appears 
to  have  reposed  implicit  belief.  Yet  Doctor  Johnson, 
who  was  ready  to  believe  in  almost  anything  of  a 
supernatural  character,  after  carefully  examining  the 
subject  of  the  second  sight,  could  find  no  good  evi- 
dence of  its  reality.  We  scarcely  need  to  add  that  it 
deserves  to  be  classed  with  the  exploded  fables  of 
witchcraft  and  ghosts,  so  long  prevalent  in  most 
countries. 

According  to  the  faith  of  the  people,  there  is  a way  of 
foretelling  death  by  a cry  which  they  call  TaisJc.  This 
is  heard  without  doors,  and  resembles  the  voice  of 
the  particular  person,  whose  death  is  foretold.  A 
spirit,  by  the  country  people  called  Broioney,  is  fre- 
quently seen  in  the  isles  and  the  northern  parts  of 
Scotland ; he  appears  in  the  shape  of  a tall  man,  but 
his  visits  are  not  so  common  as  formerly.  There  are 
spirits  also  that  appear  in  the  shape  of  women,  horses, 
swine,  cats,  and  fiery  balls,  which  follow  men  in  the 
fields.  These  spirits  make  sounds  in  the  air  resem- 


SCOTLAND. 


107 


bling  those  of  a harp,  pipe,  the  crowing  of  a cock,  and 
the  grinding  of  mills.  Sometimes  they  sing  Irish 
songs  which  relate  to  the  condition  of  the  dead  in  the 
other  world.  Such  are  some  of  the  superstitions 
which  still  linger  in  the  Highlands.  Mountain 
scenery,  it  has  been  remarked,  is  the  favorite  locality 
of  such  wonders.  It  is  certainly  not  unfavorable  to 
such  delusions — for  mountain  scenery  in  most  cases 
must  be  regarded  as  implying  want  of  communications, 
want  of  intercourse,  and  want  of  the  means  by  which 
knowledge  is  diffused,  and  education  is  extended  to 
every  order  of  the  community. 


IRELAND. 


The  Irish  at  an  early  period  wore  the  same  Celtic 
fashion  of  attire  as  was  preserved  in  recent  times,  in 
the  Scotch  Highlands,  but  everything  of  the  kind  dis- 
appeared as  the  country  became  Anglicised.  A prim- 
itive species  of  attire,  including  colored  mantles,  kir- 
tles,  and  other  fanciful  garments,  remained  in  use  till 
the  sixteenth  century,  when  laws  were  made  by  Henry 
VIII.,  enjoining  the  use  of  caps,  cloaks,  coats,  doublets 
and  hose,  of  English  forms. 

The  general  dress  in  Ireland  at  the  present  day  rare- 
ly varies  from  that  in  England.  There  are,  however, 
some  interesting  peculiarities  of  costume  among  the 
peasantry  of  the  southern  and  western  counties.  A 
brown  stuff  gown  and  green  petticoat  is  the  popular 
female  dress,  sometimes  with  stockings  of  the  bright- 
est blue  ; but  stockings  are  seldom  seen,  and  shoes 
are  scarcely  ever  worn  except  on  Sundays  and  other 
holidays.  Silver  buckles  and  cloak  clasps  are  much 
prized,  and  are  handed  down  from  mother  to  daughter. 
Bonnets  are  unknown,  but  the  high-cauled  mob-cap 
is  sometimes  worn  under  the  hood.  The  general  cos- 
tume of  the  male  peasantry  exhibits  a round  black 
hat  bound  with  a rope  of  straw ; a rough  short  coat ; 
corduroy  small-clothes,  open  at  the  knees ; gray  stock- 
ings most  commonly  hanging  loose  on  the  legs  : — add 


IRELAND. 


109 


a short  black  pipe,  stuck  in  the  side  of  the  mouth, 
which  is  ever  ready  for  a joke,  and  you  have  the  gen- 
uine Paddy. 

The  manners  of  the  superior  classes  in  Ireland  ap- 
proach nearly  to  the  English  standard,  except  that  the 
former  drink  deeper.  The  Irish  gentry  are  less  given 
to  the  cultivation  of  literature  and  the  arts,  but  amuse 
themselves  with  hunting  and  other  robust  pursuits. 
Hence  their  superiority  in  health  and  spirits.  The  man- 
ners of  the  middle  class  differ  widely  from  those  of  the 
English.  The  former  are  composed  of  men  of  small 
estates,  who  generally  live  beyond  their  income,  and 
landholders  known  by  the  name  of  middle-men^  who 
take  large  districts  of  land  from  the  owners  of  great 
estates,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  sheep  and  cattle,  or 
re-let  them  at  extravagant  rents  to  the  indigent  and 
wretched  cottagers.  The  general  characteristics  of 
this  class  are  dissipation,  idleness  and  vanity.  Every 
man  with  a few  acres  of  land  and  a moderate  revenue 
is  dignified,  as  a matter  of  course,  with  the  title  of 
Esquire,  and  I’et  his  family  be  ever  so  numerous,  and 
the  incumbrances  on  his  property  ever  so  considerable, 
he  must  support  a pack  of  hounds,  entertain  his  guests 
with  claret,  or  at  least  with  whisky,  keep  a post-chaise 
and  livery  servants,  and  in  short,  ape  his  superiors  in 
every  respect.  Meanwhile  his  debts  are  increasing, 
his  creditors  growing  clamorous,  and  every  indus- 
trious occupation,  which  might  relieve  his  distresses, 
is  neglected,  as  utterly  beneath  the  dignity  of  a 
gentleman. 

To  this  source  is  to  be  traced  the  origin  of  another 
class  called  htchs  and  huckeens*  These  are  either 
XIX. — 10 


110 


IRELAND. 


the  eldest  sons  of  gentlemen  of  small  property,  or 
the  younger  children  of  those  of  larger,  who  have 
received  their  scanty  pittance,  which  they  never  dream 
of  augmenting  by  any  industrious  means.  To  stand 
behind  a counter,  superintend  a farm,  or  write  in  a 
counting-house,  would  be  beneath  the  dignity  of  such 
exalted  beings,  and  disgrace  the  memory  of  their  gen- 
tlemen ancestors.  The  same  general  aversion  to  indus- 
try and  tendency  to  dissipation,  together  with  family 
vanity,  cause  the  gentry  to  educate  their  children  in 
the  genteel  professions.  Hence  the  country  is  over- 
stocked with  curates  of  scanty  salaries  or  none,  law- 
yers preying  on  the  public,  ensigns  without  the  means 
of  rising  higher,  physicians  without  patients,  &:c. 

Two  leading  and  naturally  allied  features  in  the 
character  of  the  lower  Irish  are  idleness  and  inquisi- 
tiveness, especially  where  they  are  hired  to  perform 
work  for  others.  The  moment  an  overseer  quits  them, 
they  are  sure  to  drop  their  work,  take  snuff,  and  fall 
to  chatting  about  the  news  of  the  day.  No  traveller 
can  pass  them  without  diverting  their  attention  from 
the  business  in  hand,  and  giving  rise  to  numerous 
guesses  as  to  his  person,  errand  and  destination.  The 
most  trivial  occurrence,  especially  of  the  sporting  char- 
acter, will  hurry  them  from  their  occupations.  In 
passing  through  the  country,  a stranger  will  be  struck 
by  the  crowds  that  attend  funerals,  and  by  the  cries  of 
the  mourners,  though  these  are  less  clamorous  than 
formerly. 

The  houses  of  the  Irish,  if  we  except  those  of  the 
rich,  or  those  in  towns,  which  are  formed  after  the 
English  model,  are  hovels  or  cabins  of  the  most 


IRELAND. 


Ill 


wretched  character.  The  walls  are  of  stone  or  earth, 
taken  out  of  the  ground  on  which  they  stand,  whence 
the  floor  is  a foot  below  the  outer  level,  and  becomes 
a receptacle  for  all  the  superfluous  moisture.  The 
cabin  is  roofed  with  sods  or  heath,  and  is  destitute  of 
a chimney.  There  is  no  flooring,  and  the  bed  is 
merely  a heap  of  straw  spread  on  the  ground.  Many 
have  no  windows,  and  few  have  more  than  a single  pane. 
The  furniture  is  equally  scanty  and  wretched  ; and 
the  door  is  often  nothing  more  than  a straw  mat. 
There  is  but  one  room,  and  this  is  free,  like  an  Indian 
wigwam,  to  any  person  to  enter  without  knocking ; it 
is  also  inhabited  by  pigs,  fowls,  &:c.,  and  even  by  the 
cow,  if  the  family  are  so  rich  as  to  own  one.  The 
villages  often  consist  of  nothing  but  streets  of  cab- 
ins of  this  description.  The  city  of  Dublin,  the  centre 
of  which  is  hardly  surpassed  in  Europe  for  the  beauty 
and  splendor  of  its  architecture,  is  surrounded  by 
wretched  hovels,  inferior  in  comfort  to  the  dwelling  of 
a western  savage. 

A great  part  of  the  Irish  have  no  other  food  than 
potatoes  and  milk.  The  free  use  of  whisky,  which  is 
cheap  in  this  country,  leads,  of  course,  to  a great  de- 
gree of  intemperance  ; and  as  one  consequence,  the 
lower  Irish  are  proverbially  riotous.  Their  fairs  are 
scenes  of  confusion,  disturbance  and  bloodshed.  Com- 
binations, risings,  and  outrages  among  tradesmen, 
are  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  often  on  pretexts  that 
are  truly  ridiculous.  They  are  also,  to  a remarkable 
degree,  lawlessly  inclined.  Instead  of  exerting  them- 
selves to  apprehend  offenders,  and  assist  in  the  execu- 
tion of  the  laws,  they  are  in  general  ready  to  give  the 


112 


IRELAND. 


criminal  every  assistance  in  escaping,  and  to  resist  au- 
thority, unless  awed  by  superior  force. 

It  is  proper  to  state,  however,  that  in  what  relates 
to  drink,  a wonderful  change  has  recently  been  effect- 
ed by  Father  Mathew,  a Catholic  priest,  who  has 
preached  temperance  among  the  lower  Irish  with 
almost  miraculous  effect.  It  might  seem  problematical 
whether  this  will  be  of  long  continuance,  as  any 
great  and  sudden  mutation  in  the  habits  of  a people 
can  hardly  be  expected  to  be  permanent,  particularly 
in  a people  so  prone  to  act  from  impulse  as  the  Irish ; 
yet  we  cannot  but  indulge  the  hope  that  the  revolu- 
tion which  has  been  effected  may  become  estab- 
lished. The  nation  is  now  making  an  earnest  move- 
ment for  the  amelioration  of  its  political  condition,  and 
it  already  appears  that  their  desire  to  vindicate  their 
rights  is  operating  not  only  to  establish  the  Cause  of 
temperance  with  the  people,  but  to  give  an  unwonted 
steadiness,  dignity  and  self-command  to  their  char- 
acter. 

The  business  of  illicit  distillation  is  carried  on  in  no 
other  country,  perhaps,  to  such  an  extent  as  in  Ireland. 
In  defiance  of  law  and  government,  it  has  given  birth 
to  a great  contraband  system,  alike  destructive  of  mor- 
als and  of  public  order.  All  the  mountains,  bogs,  and 
deep  valleys  of  the  north  abound  with  illicit  stills,  in 
spots  where  the  most  diligent  search  can  scarcely  dis- 
cover them ; and  when  detected,  they  can  scarcely  be 
seized  without  the  aid  of  an  armed  force.  When  the 
troops  are  seen  advancing,  concerted  signals  are  made, 
and  the  small  light  stills  are  soon  conveyed  to  a dis- 
tant quarter.  The  farmers  and  land -proprietors  en- 


IRELAND. 


113 


courage  illicit  distillation  as  the  most  ready  mode  of 
obtaining  a market  for  their  grain.  The  quality  of 
the  spirit  was  for  a long  time  much  superior  to  that 
produced  by  the  legal  distillery,  so  that  in  selling,  it 
was  considered  the  highest  possible  recommendation 
to  give  assurance  that  it  never  paid  duty. 

Although  there  are  carriages  of  all  descriptions  in 
Ireland,  the  jaunting  car  is  the  national  vehicle,  and 
Ireland,  it  is  said,  would  scarcely  be  Ireland  without 
it.  This  carriage  may  be  said  to  supersede,  as  a pri- 
vate vehicle,  the  whole  of  the  gig  family,  and  to  be  a 
formidable  rival  to  the  coach  as  a public  conveyance. 
Throughout  nearly  all  the  country,  travellers,  as  well 
as  the  mails,  are  conveyed  by  it.  It  is  drawn  gener- 
ally by  a single  horse,  and  is  so  constructed  that  two, 
four,  or  six  persons  sit  back  to  back.  How  a vehicle  so 
unsociable  should  ever  have  been  established,  is  diffi- 
cult to  understand  ; but  when  the  car  is  not  full,  there 
is  an  easy,  lounging  way  of  sitting,  not  utterly  incom- 
patible with  social  intercourse.  The  great  advantage 
it  possesses  is  the  facility  afforded  by  it  of  getting  up 
and  sitting  down,  which  in  travelling  on  a hilly  road 
is  very  desirable. 

Few  things  attract  a stranger’s  notice  in  Ireland 
more  than  the  excellence  of  the  roads,  even  in  the 
wilds  of  Kerry  and  Connaught,  and  that  without  any 
perceptible  repairs.  In  England,  it  is  true,  the  roads 
are  also  good,  but  the  traveller  is  constantly  annoyed 
by  troops  of  workmen  armed  with  pickaxes,  tearing  up 
the  roads,  and  forcing  him  to  grind  over  granite  dur- 
ing  a great  part  of  his  journey.  There  is  nothing  of 
this  sort  in  the  Emerald  Isle.  The  highway,  once 
10* 


114 


IRELAND. 


constructed,  seems  to  defy  the  operations  of  time  and 
travel.  The  cause  is  easily  explained.  There  is 
Very  little  wear  and  tear  on  the  Irish  roads.  A few 
English  tourists  in  the  summer  and  autumn,  with  their 
jaunting-cars,  and  a few  bare-footed  natives  at  other 
times,  cannot  effect  much  in  cutting  up  the  roads. 
One  may  often  travel  ten,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in 
the  country  without  meeting  a single  cart,  carriage,  or 
car. 

The  Irish  character  presents  very  strongly  marked 
features,  many  of  which  are  amiable,  and  even  admira- 
ble. They  are  brave,  and  hospitable  to  such  a degree 
that  in  some  counties  the  door  is  regularly  kept  open 
during  meals.  This  virtue  is  much  enhanced  by  the 
scantiness  of  the  portion  which  is  thus  liberally  shared 
with  the  passing  stranger.  The  Irish  .are  lively,  merry 
and  witty,  and  even  the  Jowest  ranks  have  a courteous 
and  polite  address.  They  are  celebrated  for  warmth 
of  heart,  and  for  strong  attachments  of  kindred  and 
friendship,  which  lead  them,  out  of  their  scanty  means, 
to  support  their  aged  relations  with  the  purest  kind- 
ness. Benevolence  is  a distinguishing  characteristic 
of  the  higher  ranks.  The  Irish  have,  also,  great  curi- 
osity, intelligence  and  eagerness  for  information.  But 
with  these  good  qualities  are  mixed  up  many  faults. 
They  are  deficient  in  cleanliness,  have  little  taste  for 
conveniences  or  luxuries,  and  are  destitute  of  that  sober 
and  steady  spirit  of  enterprise  which  distinguishes  the 
English.  The  love  of  fighting  seems  a rooted  infirm- 
ity, and  the  club,  under  the  'name  of  shillala,  is  a gen- 
eral accompaniment  at  fairs.  Among  all  nations  not 
wholly  civilized,  this  is  indeed  a favorite  mode  of  ter- 


IRELAND. 


115 


minating  differences,  but  the  Irish  may  be  said  to  sur- 
pass every  other  people  in  the  extreme  promptitude 
with  which  they  resort  to  it.  Fighting  appears  their 
congenial  element,  into  which  they  plunge  whenever 
their  spirits  are  roused.  It  would  seem,  indeed,  to 
have  been  formerly  almost  a regular  termination  of 
the  social  feast.  The  fairs,  which  in  every  town  and 
village  in  Ireland  are  regular  and  of  long  duration, 
afford  the  grand  theatres,  first  of  unbounded  mirth,  and 
ultimately  of  bloody  conflict.  The  Irish  do  not  fight 
single-handed,  but  in  bands,  and  on  a great  scale.  On 
receiving  a supposed  injury,  they  go  round  to  their 
companions,  friends  and  townsmen,  and  collect  a mul- 
titude, with  which  they  make  a joint  attack  on  the 
objects  of  their  wrath.  It  need  scarcely  be  added  that 
they  show  no  reluctance  to  engage  in  schemes  of 
general  and  national  conflict ; and  it  is  remarked  that 
when  these  are  in  contemplation,  there  is  a pause  of 
casual  and  private  battle.  The  other  blemishes  of  the 
Irish  may  be  comprised  under  the  name  of  frailties. 
They  are  vain,  loquacious,  and  prompt  to  speak  as 
well  as  act  without  deliberation.  This  disposition, 
with  their  thoughtless  gaiety,  betrays  them  into  that 
peculiar  sort  of  blunder  denominated  a hull^  which  their 
neighbors  have  so  long  held  forth  as  a national  char- 
acteristic. 

It  is  amusing  to.  observe  that  in  the  wretched  mud 
cabins  of  the  most  barbarous  districts  in  Ireland,  the 
preliminary  stipulations  for  matrimony,  as  far  as  re- 
gards pecuniary  arrangements,  are  as  formal  as  in  the 
mansions  of  the  West  End  of  London.  Alliances 
among  the  noble  and  genteel  families  of  England,  as 


116 


IRELAND. 


is  well  known,  are  preceded  by  abundance  of  negotia- 
tion ; attorneys  and  conveyancers  are  employed  to  see 
that  the  family  of  the  bridegroom  does  not  overreach 
that  of  the  bride  ; and  a huge  parchment  is  covered 
with  a barbarous  mixture  of  Old  English,  Norman 
French  and  monkish  Latin,  to  make  all  safe.  Among 
the  bogs  of  Ireland,  the  fathers  of  the  proposed  couple 
hold  a formal  negotiation,  over  a bowl  of  hot  whisky 
punch,  respecting  the  doiories  of  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom, while  the  property  of  both  families  would  not 
sell  for  twenty  pounds.  Matches  have  been  broken 
off  because  the  bride’s  father  would  not  give  his 
daughter  a hed^  as  an  equivalent  to  a pig  and  her 
litter  proposed  to  be  given  to  the  bridegroom  by  his 
father. 

The  favorite  time  for  celebrating  weddings  is  just 
before  Lent.  The  guests  are  always  numerous,  and 
consist  of  all  ranks,  from  the  lord  and  lady  of  the 
manor,  through  the  intermediate  grades  of  gentlemen, 
squireens,”  and  farmers,  down  to  the  common  labor- 
ers, wives,  of  course,  included.  Perfect  equality  pre- 
vails on  these  occasions,  yet  the  natural  courtesy  of 
the  Irish  prevents  any  disturbance  of  social  order; 
every  one  keeps  his  place,  while,  at  the  same  time, 
perfect  freedom  reigns.  The  dinner  is  usually  at  the 
expense  of  the  bride’s  family ; nothing  is  spared  in 
procuring  the  materials,  and  the  neighboring  gentry 
allow  their  cooks  and  servants  to  assist.  The  priest 
sits  at  the  head  of  the  table  ; near  him  are  the  bride 
and  bridegroom,  the  coadjutors  of  the  clergyman,  and 
the  more  respectable  guests ; the  others  occupy  the 
remainder  of  the  table,  which  extends  the  whole  length 


IRELAND. 


117 


of  the  barn  in  which  the  dinner  is  usually  given. 
Immediately  on  the  removal  of  the  cloth,  the  priest 
marries  the  couple ; the  bridecake  is  brought  in  and 
placed  before  the  priest,  who,  putting  on  his  stole, 
blesses  it  and  cuts  it  up  into  small  slices,  which  are 
handed  round  on  a large  dish  among  the  guests.  Each 
one  takes  a slice  of  the  cake,  and  lays  down  in  place 
of  it  a donation  for  the  priest,  consisting  of  pounds, 
crowns  or  shillings,  according  to  the  ability  of  the 
donor.  After  this,  wine  and  punch  go  round,  as  at  an 
ordinary  dinner  party. 

Every  one  has  heard  of  the  Irish  loalce^  in  which, 
on  the  death  of  a person,  the  friends  and  neighbors 
assemble  to  howl  over  the  corpse.  This  strange  scene 
is  often  more  noisy  and  boisterous  than  the  wedding ; 
the  bowlings  of  the  mourners  being  frequently  drowned 
in  the  uproar  and  bacchanalian  merriment  of  the  rabble 
who  assemble  from  far  and  near  to  celebrate  the  death 
of  their  neighbor.  Owing  to  the  exertions  of  Father 
Mathew  and  other  causes,  we  are  told  that  whisky  has 
now  almost  disappeared  from  the  house  of  mourning, 
and  tobacco  and  snuff  have  usurped  its  place.  Still 
the  Irish  wake  presents  a strange  and  repulsive  medley 
of  indecent  mirth,  fictitious  wailing  and  real  grief, 
instead  of  the  silent  sorrow  that  becomes  the  solemn 
scene. 


H 


FRANCE. 


The  manners  and  customs  of  the  French  have 
perhaps  been  oftener  described  than  those  of  any  other 
people.  The  most  pleasing  parts  of  the  portrait  are 
vivacity,  gaiety,  politeness,  a strong  propensity  toward 
social  enjoyments,  and  that  knowledge  of  the  art  of 
living,  which  enables  a man  to  dispose  of  his  occupa- 
tions and  pleasures  in  an  agreeable  succession,  free 
from  listlessness  and  fatigue.  In  general,  Frenchmen 
regard  care  as  a mortal  poison,  and  study  to  avoid,  if 
possible,  its  most  distant  approach.  On  the  other  hand, 
ancient  and  recent  events  conspire  to  affix  a sangui- 
nary stain  on  the  national  character,  which  one  would 
little  expect  amid  so  much  gaiety  and  seeming  benev- 
olence. The  ancient  and  rooted  enmity  between 
France  and  England  nourished  many  prejudices 
against  the  French  character  in  the  latter  country, 
which  have  since  been  dissipated.  Yet  with  travellers 
accustomed  to  the  elegance  of  English  life,  many  of 
the  French  manners  and  customs  cannot  be  reconciled 
to  ideas  of  physical  purity,  and  the  example  of  the 
personal  and  domestic  cleanliness  of  the  English  must 
still  be  recommended  to  their  neighbors  for  imitation. 
The  houses  of  the  French  frequently  display  a strange 
mixture  of  magnificence  and  dirt ; while  even  the  cot- 
tage in  England  will  show  a regard  for  the  comforts 
and  conveniences  of  its  inhabitants. 


120 


FRANCE. 


A species  of  Anglomania  has  lately  prevailed  in 
France  to  a considerable  extent.  The  French  have 
begun  to  appreciate  and  imitate  many  of  the  habits  of 
English  life ; their  horses,  carriages,  furniture,  liveries, 
table-linen,  &;c.  daily  more  and  more  resemble  those 
which  are  generally  seen  in  London.  Some  few 
houses  combine  in  their  interior  a mixture  of  the  old 
French  grandeur  with  modern  English  ease  and  com- 
fort, which  defies  all  competition.  The  natural  good 
taste  in  dress  which  has  always  characterized  the 
French  women,  still  remains  unrivalled;  they  give 
the  acknowledged  law  to  all  Europe  in  every  branch 
of  the  toilet,  which  their  imitators  find  less  difficult 
to  copy  than  the  graceful  ease  and  elegance  of  their 
manners.  With  respect  to  the  men,  who  have  only 
of  late  years  paid  much  attention  to  their  dress,  they 
have  gone  from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  and  have 
surpassed  in  eccentricity  their  brother  dandies  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Channel.  That  class  of  them  consti- 
tuting what  is  called  la  jeune  France^  wear  poniards 
in  the  coat-sleeve,  smoke  cigars,  and  drink  deep  in 
imitation  of  Lord  Byron.  The  higher  classes  also 
produce  their  types  of  modern  innovation  in  dress  and 
appearance,  while  the  bushy  beard,  and  hair  d la 
Raphael^  would  lead  a stranger  to  imagine  that  combs 
and  razors  were  become  altogether  superfluous. 

Since  the  overthrow  of  Napoleon,  the  French  and 
English  seem  in  a great  measure  to  have  changed 
characters  with  each  other  : that  of  the  French  is 
become  grave  and  serious,  while  that  of  the  English 
is  now  proverbially  frivolous  and  thoughtless.  The 
former  seem  from  habit  to  live  under  the  constant 


FRANCE. 


121 


dread  of  returning  adversity ; while  the  memory  of 
the  brilliant  successes  of  their  arms  tempts  the  latter 
to  believe  that  their  supremacy  and  prosperity  must 
endure  forever.  The  luxury,  dissipation,  and  bound- 
less extravagance  which  exist  among  the  higher  classes 
in  England  are  strongly  contrasted  with  the  opposite 
habits  of  their  neighbors  in  France.  The  French 
are  become  cautious,  prudent  and  economical,  and 
there  is  a certain  atmosphere  of  good  sense  and  good 
taste  to  be  found  in  the  better  classes  which  prevents 
them  from  being  foolish,  ridiculous  or  vicious.  ) 

At  the  present  day,  the  fortunes  in  France,  with  a 
few  exceptions,  are  not  large,  and  the  law  of  inherit- 
ance tends  to  diminish  them  ; no  cases  occur  of  men 
of  rank  and  family  plunging  headlong  into  ruin.  The 
temptations  to  extravagance  and  luxury  are  certainly 
as  alluring  at  Paris  as  in  any  other  capital,  but  not 
only  every  father  of  a family,  but  every  young  man 
who  enjoys  independence  seems  anxious  to  regulate 
his  expenses  by  the  scale  of  order  and  prudence.  It 
would  be  considered  an  act  of  very  bad  taste  to  incur 
large  debts  without  the  immediate  means  of  paying 
them.  That  reckless  profusion  which,  in  England, 
consigns  whole  estates  to  the  hammer  of  the  auctioneer, 
and  entails  poverty  on  future  generations,  is  almost 
unknown  in  France. 

The  French  families  of  distinction  live  more  on 
their  estates  than  formerly  : la  vie  du  chateau  is  not 
without  its  charms ; the  example  of  England  has 
given  a taste  for  agriculture,  and  when  the  economy 
of  a country  life  is  combined  with  projects  for  the  im- 
provement of  landed  property,  a four  months’  residence 
XIX. — 11 


122 


FRANCE. 


in  Paris  may  be  deemed  quite  sufficient  for  all  the 
purposes  of  gaiety  and  pleasure.  The  French  are 
comparatively  a very  contented  people  : they  enjoy 
whatever  comforts  are  within  their  reach,  and  neither 
imitate  nor  envy  those  who  possess  superior  advan- 
tages of  rank  and  fortune.  Above  all,  they  are  free 
from  that  rivalry  with  each  other  in  luxury  and  ex- 
pense, which  proves  the  bane  of  so  many  families  in 
England. 

There  is  another  amiable  trait  in  the  French  charac- 
ter which  foreigners  seldom  condescend  to  notice,  or 
perhaps  few  have  had  the  opportunity  to  appreciate. 
This  is  the  great  harmony  and  affection  which  gene- 
rally subsist  among  the  different  members  of  each 
family,  long  after  they  have  entered  on  the  pursuits  of 
active  life  ; a circumstance  which  may  be  attributed 
to  the  patriarchal  manner  in  which  they  often  continue 
to  dwell  under  the  same  roof  with  their  parents.  In 
England,  and  especially  in  the  United  States,  when 
sons  and  daughters  marry,  they  remove  at  once  to 
another  and  perhaps  distant  residence,  flushed  with 
ideas  of  independence,  and  anxious  to  form  new  inti- 
macies more  congenial  to  their  youthful  tastes,  than 
the  sober  family  party  which  they  have  left  at  home. 
Thus  parents  and  children,  brothers  and  sisters  are 
inevitably  thrown  into  different  spheres  : each  having 
their  own  objects  in  view,  whether  of  pleasure  or  am- 
bition, till  at  last  their  meetings  dwindle  down  to 
casual  visits,  they  see  less  of  each  other,  while  con- 
tinual absence  gradually  dissolves  all  the  early  ties  of 
duty  and  affection.  In  France,  they  have  no  such 
worldly-minded  separations : the  son  introduces  his 


FRANCE. 


123 


youthful  bride  to  the  paternal  mansion,  which  then 
becomes  doubly  his  home  ; they  have  their  separate 
independent  apartments  and  servants,  they  visit  or 
receive  their  friends  separately,  but  at  the  hour  of 
dinner  all  assemble  round  the  head  of  the  house,  and 
keep  up  that  confidential  intimacy,  that  bond  of  union, 
which  continues  through  life  to  endear  them  to  each 
other. 

A recent  traveller  pronounces  the  opinion  that  mar- 
riages in  F ranee  are  generally  happy ; and  when  it 
is  considered  that  they  are’  in  almost  every  instance 
concluded  by  the  parents  without  any  decided  previous 
partiality  between  the  contracting  parties,  it  may  be- 
come an  interesting  question  why  the  so  called  love 
matches  in  England  are  often  productive  of  such  very 
different  results.  If  the  French  marriages  are  happier 
than  the  English,  it  may  perhaps  be  owing  to  thQ  com- 
parative ascendancy  which  the  French  wives  possess 
over  'their  husbands,  or  more  properly  speaking,  the 
equality  which  subsists  between  husband  and  wife. 
There  is  a proverbial  prejudice  in.  an  English  domestic 
establishment  against  the  interference  of  the  female  in 
anything  that  regards  the  husband’s  conduct,  which 
has  driven  many  a weak  and  self-willed  man  to  cause 
the  misery  both  of  himself  and  of  his  partner,  rather 
than  listen  to  advice  which  a moment’s  cool  reflection 
would  have  taught  him  to  approve.  In  what  is  called 
fashionable  life,  the  regular  habits  of  a French  family, 
the  prudent  administration  of  a moderate  fortune,  and 
the  sober  enjoym-ent  of  quiet  society  are  better  calcu- 
lated to  ensure  happiness  than  nights  spent  at  Crock- 
ford’s,  under  the  fascination  of  play  and  excitement, 


124 


FRANCE. 


which  inevitably  bring  in  their  train  loss  of  fortune, 
loss  of  character,  and  loss  of  internal  peace.  The  vice 
of  gambling  is  almost  unknown  in  French  society; 
since  the  suppression  of  the  gaming-houses,  all  games 
of  chance  are  strictly  prohibited  by  law ; and  indeed, 
for  the  last  few  years  of  their  existence,  those  houses 
were  little  frequented  by  men  who  were  much  known 
in  the  world. 

It  has  frequently  been  remarked  by  foreigners,  but 
more  particularly  by  the  English,  that  the  French  are 
deficient  in  hospitality  to  strangers ; and  with  the 
exception  of  some  few  families  the  charge  is  not  with- 
out foundation.  But,  at  the  same  time,  allowance 
should  be  made  for  national  habits,  and  also  the  posi- 
tion in  which  they  are  accidentally  placed  with  regard 
to  their  foreign  visiters.  Society  in  France  is  now 
split  Jnto  two  sections,  the  partizans  of  the  late,  and 
those  of  the  present  monarchy  ; these  are  separated  by 
a barrier  of  antipathy  which  prevents  all  communica- 
tion with  each  other.  Political  distinctions  are  here 
an  inseparable  bar  to  general  intercourse,  and  those 
promiscuous  crowds  of  tory,  whig,  and  radical,  which 
overflow  the  halls  and  staircases  of  a great  house  in 
London,  are  never  seen  at  Paris.  Then  the  system  of 
giving  large  formal  dinners,  which  constitutes  the 
groundwork  of  all  London  society,  is  quite  a secondary 
consideration  with  the  French.  It  would  be  impossi- 
ble, where  large  families  are  constantly  assembled,  to 
invite  a number  of  strangers  to  their  table : this  cere- 
mony is  not  even  in  general  use  among  themselves ; a 
few  intimate  friends  find  there  a constant  welcome, 
hut  the  enjoyment  of  general  society  is  reserved  for 


FRANCE. 


125 


the  evening  meetings,  which  take  place  without  for- 
mality and  without  invitation. 

Few  traits  are  more  conspicuous  in  the  French 
character  than  vanity  and  self-confidence.  There  is 
no  contrast  more  striking,  when  w^e  compare  the 
English  with  the  French,  than  that  exhibited  by  the 
reserve  approaching  to  timidity,  of  the  former,  and  the 
full  confidence  in  themselves  displayed  by  the  latter. 
A shrewd  and  experienced  foreigner  has  remarked, 
that  if  a hundred  persons,  indiscriminately,  were 
stopped  .in  the  streets  of  London,  and  the  same  num- 
ber in  the  streets  of  Paris,  and  a proposal  were  made 
to  each  individual  to  undertake  the  government  of  his 
country,  ninety-nine  would  accept  the  offer  at  Paris, 
and  ninety-nine  would  refuse  it  in  London.  A 
Frenchman  believes  that  wit  supplies  the  place  of 
everything;  the  Englishman  thinks  that  nothing  can 
be  done  without  both  knowledge  and  practice.  A 
Frenchman  being  asked  if  he  could  play  on  the  harp- 
sichord, replied,  “ I do  not  know,  for  I never  tried,  but 
I will  go  and  see.”  This  reckless  confidence  is  car- 
ried into  the  most  serious  matters,  and  may  be  pointed 
out  as  one  of  the  chief  causes  which  led  to  the  calami- 
ties of  the  French  revolution.  Each  member  of  the 
National  Assembly  thought  himself  equal  to  anything. 
Never  were  so  many  men  congregated  together  wLo 
fancied  themselves  legislators  capable  of  repairing  the 
faults  of  the  past,  finding  a remedy  for  all  the  errors 
of  the  human  mind,  and  securing  the  happiness  of 
future  generations.  Doubt  of  their  own  powers 
never  once  found  its  way  into  their  bosoms. 

The  most  common  mode  of  travelling  in  France  is 
11* 


126 


FRANCE. 


by  the  Diligence,  which  is  one  of  the  cheapest,  although 
at  the  same  time  one  of  the  slowest  methods.  This 
vehicle  is  something  between  a wagon  and  a coach. 
It  goes  night  and  day  till  the  journey  is  ended,  stop- 
ping only  for  meals  and  the  change  of  horses.  There 
are  usually  five  of  these  : one  is  within  a heavy  pair  of 
shafts ; another  is  harnessed  without  the  shafts  at  the 
side  of  the  first,  and  the  three  others  are  harnessed 
with  ropes  abreast.  The  postilion  is  a peculiar  char- 
acter : he  wears  a little  round  hat,  a green  jacket, 
hair  en  queue^  and  a pair  of  enormously  large  jack- 
boots.  The  nature  of  his  equipments  calls  upon  him 
for  constant  expedients,  and  he  seems  to  be  always 
joining  a bridle,  knotting  a whip,  or  knocking  on  a 
saddle  with  a stone.  He  is  off  and  on  his  horse’s  back 
many  times  in  a stage  without  stopping  the  vehicle. 
If  a passenger  calls,  he  dismounts,  pops  his  head  into 
the  window,  or  runs  by  the  side.  The  diligence  has 
a conductor  who  sleeps  in  the  cabriolet^  or  forward 
apartment,  and  who  sits  at  the  head  of  the  table  with 
the  passengers.  There  are  three  apartments  in  the 
vehicle,  with  an  upper  story,  called  the  imperial, 
where  the  passengers  commonly  lie  down. 

Another  mode  of  travelling  in  France  is  by  the 
voiture,  which  is  a more  comfortable  method  of  con- 
veyance than  by  the  diligence.  When  a single  party 
engage  the  whole  voiture,  it  differs  in  no  respect  from 
travelling  in  a private  vehicle,  except  that  the  right 
of  property  in  the  horses  and  carriage  is  but  tempo- 
rary, and  the  coachman  does  not  wear  a livery.  In 
France,  there  are  but  few  stage-coaches,  and  no  good 
ones  except  between  Paris  and  the  towns  on  the  Brit- 


FRANCE. 


127 


ish  Channel.  The  post-houses  furnish  no  carriages, 
but  horses  only.  In  every  great  town,  there  are  per 
sons  whose  trade  is  to  keep  carriages  for  those  who 
wish  to  travel,  but  have  no  carriage  of  their  own. 
Two  or  three  places  being  engaged,  the  voiturier 
makes  up  his  cargo  as  he  can  ; and  rather  than  have 
any  vacant  seat  in  his  carriage,  he  will  sell  it  at  a low 
rate  to  such  as  can  afford  to  pay  but  a low  price.  He 
then  makes  up  with  dead  lumber  what  is  wanting  in 
weight  of  live  stock,  and  the  company,  being  assem- 
bled, proceed  as  they  can  under  the  auspices  of  the 
conductor,  who  presides  at  their  meals,  a bargain  hav- 
ing been  made  with  him  previously,  to  furnish  food 
as  well  as  lodgings.  Some  of  these  men,  of  course, 
are  ready  to  employ  any  means  of  overreaching  their 
customers  ; all  the  precaution  that  can  be  taken  against 
them  is,  to  see  everything,  write  down  everything, 
even  to  the  number  of  the  dishes,  and  above  all,  to 
have  time  at  command. 

A French  innkeeper  of  the  dishonest  class  always 
takes  care  to  keep  some  cracked  china  vase  or  broken 
pane  of  glass  on  hand,  for  which  payment  is  demanded 
when  the  carriage  is  at  the  door.  It  is  to  no  purpose 
that  you  examine  the  fractured  articles  and  point  out 
that  the  edges  of  the  fractures  are  rounded  by  use,  and 
dirt  is  seen  in  the  interstices,  plainly  showing  that  the 
damage  is  not  of  recent  date ; the  innkeeper  knows 
that  you  wish  to  depart  immediately,  and  that  you 
will  rather  submit  to  the  imposition  than  lose  your 
time.  A travelling  Englishman  once,  on  leaving  his 
apartment,  was  stopped  by  a demand  for  a cracked 
pane  of  glass ; his  conscience  acquitted  him  of  the 


128 


FRANCE. 


deed : after  having  for  some  time  fruitlessly  pleaded 
his  innocence,  he  quietly  raised  his  cane  and  broke  in 
pieces  the  cause  of  the  altercation.  ‘‘  This  pane  shall 
be  paid  for  no  more,”  said  he,  patriotically  mindful  of 
the  interests  of  his  successors. 

The  French  have  in  their  climate  an  aid  to  enjoy- 
ment which  is  not  within  the  reach  of  their  neighbors 
the  English,  and  which  goes  far  to  account  for  the 
superiority  of  the  Frenchman  in  cheerfulness  and 
sociality.  The  sources  of  pleasurable  and  healthful 
pursuit  are  open  to  all  classes,  and  even  a tyrannical 
government  cannot  deprive  them  of  this  advantage. 
The  English  people,  on  the  contrary,  are  the  prisoners 
of  their  climate ; their  pleasures  must  be  bought, 
and  their  unhealthy  and  unnatural  excitements — sub- 
ject to  the  grasp  of  taxation — are  dearly  purchased  or 
painfully  foregone.  Instead^  of  a cheerful  sun,  they 
seek  the  comfort  of  a coal-fire,  and  even  this  enjoyment 
is  meted  but  to  poverty  in  the  smallest  quantities,  and  at 
the  dearest  price ; and  when  the  rigor  of  the  season 
drives  the  population  to  the  use  of  fermented  liquors, 
the  government  with  its  grinding  taxation  stands  be- 
tween the  cup  and  the  lip,  and  renders  the  question- 
able draught,  without  any  figure  of  speech,  a more 
than  deadly  poison. 

Among  the  many  pleasures  which  offer  themselves  in 
Paris,  those  afforded  by  its  numerous  and  beautiful  pub- 
lic gardens,  are  perhaps  the  cheapest  and  the  best.  The 
gardens  of  Tivoli,  the  Luxembourg,  the  Tuileries,  the 
Garden  of  Plants,  the  Champs  Ely  sees,  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  and  the  gardens  and  grounds  of  the  many 
royal  villas  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  capital,  exercise 


FRANCE. 


129 


a beneficial  influence,  not  only  on  the  health  and  enjoy- 
ment, but  also  on  the  character  and  temperament,  of 
the  citizens  of  Paris.  The  taste  for  out-of-doors  amuse- 
ment thus  engendered,  by  turning  the  public  from  an 
habitual  indulgence  in  artificial  excitements,  favors 
that  cheerful  and  elastic  temperament  which  develops 
intellect,  promotes  courtesy  and  creates  fixed  habits  of 
good  breeding.  The  common  people,  always  in  the 
presence  of  nature,  are  more  awakened  and  alert  than 
the  citizen  of  another  country  who  is  perpetually  pent 
up  in  narrow  streets  or  the  walls  of  a tap-room,  where, 
besotted  with  strong  liquors,  he  has  neither  food  for 
his  mind  nor  organs  in  a state  fitted  for  reflection. 

In  the  Champs  Elysees,  on  a fine  summer  evening, 
the  lively  French  temperament  is  seen  in  all  its  force, 
and  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  Here  the  sim 
plicity  of  the  old  French  character  is  visible  in  the 
amusements  and  recreations  of  the  lower  orders,  min- 
gled with  the  pursuits  opened  to  them  by  modern 
improvements,  while  the  social  qualities  of  the  higher 
orders  come  out  in  the  most  pleasing  relief,  and  in  the 
brightest  light.  The  noble  avenue  of  Neuilly,  which 
is  but  a prolongation  of  the  great  alley  of  the  Tuileries, 
is  crowded  with  carriages,  either  drawn  up,  while 
their  owners  are  seated  under  the  trees,  or  in  motion 
with  those  who  are  too  indolent  to  descend,  or  too  full 
dressed  to  encounter  the  dust.  Groups  of  persons  are 
listening  to  musicians  of  every  country,  performing 
their  national  airs,  while  the  true  French  bands  are 
chanting  their  vaudevilles  and  airs  de  theatre.  These 
musical  troops  move  in  succession  from  circle  to  circle^ 
till  a certain  hour,  when  they  assemble  before  the 


130 


FRANCE. 


pavilions  of  their  respective  cafes,  by  the  glittering 
lights  of  which,  seen  through  the  cross  avenues,  they 
show  with  a fairy  effect.  The  multitudes  seated  on  the 
lawn,  taking  ices  and  lemonades,  are  of  the  middle 
and  lower  ranks,  and  are  listening  to  the  exquisite 
music  of  Eossini,  Auber  and  Pacini,  with  whose 
master-pieces  they  are  as  familiar  as  a New  England 
psalm-singer  with  Old  Hundred  and  Little  Marl- 
borough. 

While  pleasure  and  the  arts  are  thus  enjoyed  at 
smaller  prices  than  can  purchase  them  in  any  other 
country  in  the  world,  a still  lower  range  of  amuse- 
ments at  a still  lower  rate,  are  offered  to  those  who  are 
fond  of  the  swing,  the  roundabout,  and  sailing  through 
the  air  in  a ship,  which  produces  all  the  agreeable 
effects  of  sea-sickness  without  the  danger  of  drowning. 
Meantime,  Punch  and  Judy  announce  the  commence- 
ment of  their  performances,  by  lighting  the  solitary 
candle  in  front  of  their  little  theatre,  and  take  their 
chance  of  remuneration  from  the  munificent  sous  which 
indigent  gaiety  freely  bestows  in  return  for  its  hearty 
laugh.  The  weighing-chair,  with  its  tempting  white 
cushions,  is  always  in  readiness ; and  a course  of  nat- 
ural philosophy  is  given  on  the  green  sward  by  an 
Armenian  conjuror,  who  expounds  the  mysteries  of 
nature  to  a class  of  listeners,  quite  as  intent  on  his  ex- 
periments as  if  they  proceeded  from  the  Sorbonne. 

The  French  females  have  exercised  a greater  influ- 
ence than  any  of  their  sex  since  the  time  of  the  Baby- 
lonians and  Egyptians.  No  country  has  produced  a 
race  of  women  so  remarkable,  or  one  which  affords 
history  so  many  great  names  and  great  examples. 


FRANCE. 


131 


Without  going  back  into  remote  times,  we  may  re- 
cord the  names  of  Madame  Roland  and  Madame  de 
Stael.  These  two  women,  alone,  without  protection, 
save  that  of  their  own  talent,  boldly  vindicated  the 
power  of  the  mind  before  its  two  most  terrible  adver- 
saries, the  Mountain  party  and  the  despotic  Napoleon ; 
and  they  have  triumphed  with  posterity  even  over  the 
guillotine  and  the  sword.  There  is  an  energy,  a de- 
sire for  action,  a taste  and  a capacity  for  business, 
among  the  females  of  France,  the  more  remarkable 
from  the  elegance,  the  grace,  and  the  taste  for  pleasure 
and  amusement  with  which  this  sterner  nature  is  com- 
bined. From  the  moment  that  women  were  admitted 
into  society  in  France,  they  have  claimed  their  share 
in  public  affairs.  Excluded  from  the  throne  and  the 
sceptre  by  the  laws,  they  have  frequently  ruled  by  a 
power  stronger  than  all  laws  : and  amidst  a people 
vain,  frivolous,  gallant,  chivalric  and  fond  of  pleasure, 
— a people  among  whom  the  men  have  in  their  char- 
acter something  of  the  woman, — the  women  have 
taken  their  place  in  life  by  the  side  of  the  men. 

Whenever  the  French  armies  have  been  engaged  in 
the  neighborhood  of  France,  there  have  always  been 
found  many  of  those  delicate  and  graceful  females  who 
adorn  the  saloons  of  Paris,  slain  on  the  field  of  battle, 
to  which  they  had  been  led,  not  so  much  by  a violent 
passion  for  their  lovers, — French  women  do  not  love 
so  violently, — as  by  a passion  for  that  action  and  ad- 
venture which  they  are  willing  to  seek,  even  in  a 
camp.  At  the  battle  of  Jemappes,  General  Dumourier 
had  for  his  aides-de-camp  two  of  the  most  beautiful, 
accomplished  and  delicate  young  women  in  the  so- 


132 


FRANCE. 


ciety  of  that  time.  Equally  chaste  and  warlike,  these 
modem  Camillas  felt  a veneration  for  the  profession 
of  arms  : they  delighted  in  the  smoke  of  the  cannon 
and  the  sound  of  the  trumpet.  In  the  most  desperate 
charges  of  the  battle,  their  slender  but  animated  voices 
were  heard  rallying  the  flying  regiments,  and  urging 
on  the  attack ; and  their  waving  plumes  and  Amazo- 
nian garb  were  seen  in  the  thickest  of  the  fire. 

It  is  not  only  in  high  society  and  “ good  society  ” 
that  we  find  the  female  in  France  taking  an  important 
position.  It  is  the  same  in  the  compting-room,  the 
cq/e,  and  the  shop.  She  is  there  also  the  chief  per- 
sonage ; she  is  book-keeper,  cash-keeper,  and  general 
superintendent  of  the  business.  Go  even  into  the 
shop  of  a sword-maker  or  gunsmith,  and  it  is  an  equal 
chance  that  you  will  be  waited  on  by  a female,  who 
will  handle  the  sword  and  recommend  the  gun ; and 
there  is  a mixture  of  womanly  gentleness  and  mas- 
culine decision  in  the  little  creature,  so  easy,  so  un- 
embarrassed, so  prettily  dressed  and  so  delicately 
shaped,  which  you  are  at  a loss  to  reconcile  with  all 
your  preconceived  notions  of  effrontery  on  the  one 
hand  and  efieminacy  on  the  other. 

In  the  eyes  of  Frenchmen,  especially  of  the  old 
school,  la  helle  France  is  the  centre  of  all  that  is  re- 
fined and  polished  in  human  existence,  and  whatever 
lies  beyond  its  sphere  is  marked  with  a deep  taint  of 
barbarism ; while  their  rougher  neighbors  brand  them 
as  artificial,  effeminate  and  fantastic.  The  art  of  liv- 
ing in  society  certainly  appears  to  be  carried  to  a 
greater  perfection  in  F ranee  than  in  any  other  country, 
and  the  manners  are  characterized  by  a peculiar  gaiety, 


FRANCE. 


133 


amenity  and  courtesy.  The  polish  of  the  higher  ranks 
seems  to  have  descended  to  the  lowest  circles.  The 
man  who  breaks  stones  upon  the  road  takes  off  his  hat 
to  the  woman  who  leads  a cow  in  a string.  The  tinker 
and  the  shoe-black  whip  off  their  caps  to  each  other. 
A certain  openness  and  kindness  of  disposition,  called 
honhommie^  is  evinced  in  the  custom  which  we  have  de- 
scribed, of  whole  families  with  married  sons  and  daugh- 
ters continuing  to  dwell  under  the  paternal  roof.  The 
Frenchman  lives,  as  it  were,  in  public  ; his  house  for 
a part  of  the  day,  is  open  to  a large  circle  of  acquaint- 
ance. He  enjoys  society  without  expense  and  cere- 
mony. He  resorts  habitually  to  the  theatre,  spec- 
tacles, and  places  of  public  amusement.  In  more 
serious  points  of  view,  the  French  possess  estimable 
qualities.  Intoxication  is  a vice  confined  to  the  lowest 
ranks,  and  swearing  is  repelled,  at  least,  as  a mark  of 
barbarism.  They  are  ingenious,  acute,  active  and  in- 
telligent ; and  if  they  ^lave  not  what  can  strictly  be 
called  patriotism,  they  have,  at  least,  a very  strong 
national  feeling. 

In  speaking  of  the  French  people,  we  are  too  apt 
only  , to  think  of  ParS,  and  to  forget  that  the  character 
and  condition  of  the  nation  at  large  is  to  be  sought  in 
the  great  mass  of  the  people  throughout  the  country. 
While  the  ladies  of » the  metropolis  are  perpetually 
changing  their  dress,  the  costumes  of  the  middle  and 
lower  ranks  are  fixed  by  usage,  and  are  subject  to  little 
change.  Every  station  has,  indeed,  its  peculiar  cos- 
tume. The  wife  of  a shopkeeper,  or  a milliner’s  girl, 
wears  a dress  equally  distinct  from  that  of  a peasant 
or  a lady.  A bonnet  is  considered  as  the  exclusive 
I XIX. — 12 


134 


FRANCE. 


privilege  of  a lady,  and  no  severity  of  weather  would 
induce  a Frenchwoman,  not  entitled  to  this  article  of 
attire,  to  adopt  it.  A cap,  generally  of  an  established 
form,  is  the  covering  of  the  head  which  takes  the 
place  of  the  bonnet. 

The  peasants  in  the  different  departments  of  France 
have  a costume  peculiar  to  themselves.  The  most  re- 
markable variety  is  that  of  the  women  of  Upper  Nor- 
mandy, who  wear  caps  of  starched  muslin,  sometimes 
half  a yard  in  height.  They  stand  up  perpendicularly, 
and  are  ornamented  with  long  lace  lappets,  called  co~ 
quilles.  The  hair  is  braided  in  front,  and  gathered  up 
in  a mass  behind.  A short  scarlet  petticoat,  black 
jacket,  colored  apron,  long  gold  earrings,  and  gold 
hearts  or  crosses  fastened  to  a black  velvet  ribbon 
around  the  neck,  complete  the  costume.  Other  styles 
of  dress,  which  have  descended  from  generation  to 
generation,  are  to  be  found  in  different  sections  of  the 
country.  Wooden  shoes,  called  sabots^  though  exceed- 
ingly clumsy,  are  common  with  both  sexes. 

The  peasantry,  who  constitute  a great  majority  of 
the  people,  are  a truly  respectable  body.  Many  of 
them  are  poor ; but  their  condition  has  been  greatly 
improved  by  the  revolution,  and  their  frugal  habits 
generally  place  them  above  want.  Every  cottage  has 
its  cow,  and  a woman  or  boy  maybe  often  seen  attend- 
ing this  cherished  animal  while  it  is  feeding  along  the 
highway. 

The  women  work  in  the  fields  with  the  men,  even 
more  than  in  England,  but  it  is  hardly  the  toil  of  com- 
pulsion or  poverty.  They  are  allowed  to  feel  an  equal- 
ity, at  least,  in  matters  of  property,  and  in  many  cases, 


FRANCE. 


135 


they  have  a leading  share  in  the  management  of  the 
garden  and  the  farm.  ^ 

Though  Paris  is  the  centre  of  gaiety,  the  same  love 
of  amusement  is  observable  throughout  every  part  of 
France.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  religious  fetes, 
and  nearly  all  the  spare  money  of  the  laboring  classes 
is  spent  in  these  ceremonials.  Almost  every  amuse- 
ment and  occasion  of  festivity  is  terminated  by  dancing. 
In  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  country,  groups  of 
peasants  may  be  seen  at  evening  performing  quadrilles 
and  waltzing  under  the  trees,  to  the  sound  of  a rustic 
violin,  and  frequently  singing  in  chorus.  While  the 
gayer  part  of  the  people  are  thus  engaged,  the  village 
politicians  assemble  at  the  inn,  where  they  take  light 
wines,  engage  in  fierce  debates,  and  sing  convivial 
songs. 


SPAIN. 


At  the  period  when  Spain  discovered  the  New 
World,  and  conquered  the  rich  and  populous  empires 
of  Mexico  and  Peru ; and  when,  not  contented  with 
domineering  over  a great  part  of  Europe,  she  agitated 
and  convulsed  the  remaining  part  by  her  intrigues  and 
military  enterprises,  the  Spaniards  became  intoxicated 
with  national  pride,  which  they  exhibited  in  their 
dress,  language  and  writings.  Spain  is  now  one  of 
the  weakest  and  poorest  nations  of  Europe,  but  the 
modern  Spaniard  still  preserves  in  his  air  and  gesture 
the  marks  of  his  anhient  greatness.  Whether  he 
speaks  or  writes,  his  expressions  have  an  exaggerated 
turn,  which  approaches  to  bombast.  He  still  retains 
an  exalted  idea  of  his  nation  and  of  himself,  and  ex- 
presses this  without  disguise.  His  vanity  does  not 
show  itself  off  with  those  pleasant  exaggerations  which 
in  the  mouth  of  a Gascon  provoke  laughter  rather  than 
anger ; but  when  he  boasts,  it  is  done  gravely,  and 
with  all  the  pomp  of  language.  In  a word,  the  Span- 
iard is  a Gascon  who  has  put  on  the  buskin. 

But  this  loftiness  and  self-conceit  are  balanced  by 
some  very  estimable  qualities,  or  rather  are  the  source 
of  them.  Individual  as  well  as  national  pride  elevates 
the  mind,  so  far  as  to  guard  against  meanness  ; and  such 
is  the  effect  of  Spanish  haughtiness.  In  Spain  there 


SPAIN. 


137 


are  vices  and  crimes  as  in  all  other  countries,  but  in  gen- 
eral, they  bear  this  national  characteristic,  which  may 
be  observed  in  the  most  obscure  classes,  in  dungeons, 
and  even  under  rags  and  misery.  The  Spanish  gravity, 
which  is  proverbial,  excludes  what  we  call  affability. 
The  politeness  of  the  Spaniard  does  not  anticipate,  but 
waits  for  you ; yet  this  austere  covering  frequently 
conceals  good  feelings  which  a slight  examination 
may  discover.  Strangers  to  the  grimace  and  ostenta- 
tion of  French  politeness,  the  Spaniards  are  sparing 
of  professions ; their  smile  of  benevolence  is  not  merely 
a courtesy,  for  their  hearts  commonly  answer  to  their 
features.  The  great  among  them  have  no  dignity,  if 
by  that  word  be  meant  a circumspection  that  fears  to 
provoke  familiarity,  and  which  looks  less  for  affection 
than  respect ; they  make  no  mortifying  distinction  of 
classes,  nor  disdain  to  form  connections  with  those 
beneath  them  in  rank. 

Assassination  was  formerly  common  in  Spain. 
Every  man  of  respectability  had  his  assassins  at  com- 
mand, who  were  regularly  hired  in  the  kingdom  of 
Valencia.  This  dreadful  custom  was  in  some  measure 
cherished  by  the  species  of  weapon  then  in  use,  a trian- 
gular poniard,  c#ncealed  under  the  cloak,  and  which 
was  drawn  forth  for  vengeance  in  the  moment  of  re- 
sentment. The  practice  of  carrying  the  poniard  still 
continues  in  some  parts  of  Spain,  but  it  is  confined  to 
the  lowest  ranks. 

It  is  seldom  that  the  manners  of  a people  are  cor- 
rected by  violent  and  precipitate  measures ; but  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  III.  such  an  experiment  was  made  in 
Spain.  The  minister,  Squillaci,  determined  to  reform 
12* 


138 


sPAm. 


the  national  dress,  which  consisted  of  a long  cloak  and 
slouched  hat  pulled  over  the  face.  In  this  dress,  a 
man  could  hardly  recognize  his  most  intimate  friend, 
and  it  was  therefore  favorable  to  the  most  dangerous 
excesses.  In  order  to  abolish  the  use  of  these  cloaks 
in  Madrid,  the  minister  resorted  to  open  force.  Men 
were  posted  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  furnished 
with  shears,  who  clipped  all  such  cloaks  as  exceeded 
the  prescribed  length.  Squillaci  believed  he  should  find 
the  Castilians  as  submissive  as  were  the  Russians  in 
the  time  of  Peter  the  Great ; but  the  people  mutinied, 
the  king  was  frightened,  and  sacrificed  his  minister. 
The  fashion  of  dress,  so  suddenly  attacked,  was  in 
part  continued  after  his  disgrace ; but  milder  and 
slower  measures,  and  the  example  of  the  court,  added 
to  the  activity  of  a vigilant  police,  have  contributed 
much  to  effect  the  desired  object. 

Almost  every  considerable  town  in  Spain  is  provid- 
ed with  a public  walk,  where  the  better  classes  assem- 
ble in  the  afternoon.  These  places  are  called  Ala- 
medas,  from  Alamo,  a common  name  for  the  elm  and 
poplar — the  trees  which  shade  such  places.  Large 
stone  benches  run  in  the  direction  of  the  alleys,  where 
people  sit,  either  to  rest  themselves  ^r  to  carry  on  a 
long  talk  in  whispers  with  the  next  lady,  an  amuse- 
ment which,  in  the  idiom  of  the  country,  is  expressed 
by  the  odd  phrase  of  “ plucking  the  hen-turkey.’’  The 
company  in  these  walks  presents  a motley  crowd  of 
officers  in  their  regimentals,  clergymen  in  their  cas- 
socks, black  coats  and  broad-brimmed  hats.  The 
ladies’  walking-dress  is  susceptible  of  little  variety. 
Nothing  short  of  the  house  being  on  fire  would  oblige 


SPAIN. 


139 


a Spanish  woman  to  step  out  of  doors  without  a black 
petticoat  called  a hasquina  or  saya,  and  a broad  black 
veil  hanging  from  the  head  over  the  shoulders,  and 
crossed  on  the  breast  like  a shawl,  which  they  call 
mantilla  ; this  being  generally  of  silk,  trimmed  rou  nd 
with  broad  lace.  In  summer  evenings  some  white 
mantillas  are  seen ; but  no  lady  would  wear  them  in 
the  morning,  much  less  venture  into  a church  in  so 
profane  a dress. 

A showy  fan  is  indispensable  in  all  seasons,  both 
in  and  out  of  doors  ; an  Andalusian  lady  might  as 
well  be  without  her  tongue  as  without  her  fan.  It  has 
this  advantage  over  the  natural  organ  of  speech,  that 
it  conveys  thought  to  a greater  distance.  A dear 
friend  at  the  farthest  end  of  the  public  walk  is  greeted 
and  cheered  by  a quick,  tremulous  motion  of  the 
fan,  accompanied  with  significant  nods.  An  object  of 
indifference  is  dismissed  with  a slow,  formal  inclina- 
tion of  the  fan,  which  makes  his  blood  run  cold.  The 
fan  now  screens  the  titter  and  whisper,  now  condenses 
a smile  into  the  dark,  sparkling  eyes,  vvhich  take  aim 
just  above  it.  A gentle  tap  of  the  fan  commands  the 
attention  of  the  careless  ; a waving  motion  calls  the 
distant ; a certain  twirl  between  the  fingers  betrays 
doubt  and  anxiety  ; a quick  closing  and  displaying  the 
folds  indicate  eagerness  or  joy.  In  perfect  combina- 
tion with  the  expressive  features  of  the  Spanish  wo- 
men, the  fan  is  a magic  wand  whose  power  is  more 
easily  felt  than  described. 

The  Spanish  priesthood  sometimes  claim  and  exer- 
cise a right  to  exclude  from  church  such  females  as  by 
a showy  dress  might  disturb  the  abstracted  yet  suscep- 


140 


SPAIN. 


tible  minds  of  the  clergy ; consequently,  the  women, 
especially  those  of  the  better  class,  are  careful  not  to 
venture  to  church  in  any  dress  but  such  as  habit  has 
made  familiar  to  the  eyes  of  the  zealots.  Whatever 
be  the  feelings  that  produce  it,  there  is  in  Spain  a sort 
of  standing  crusade  against  the  fair  sex,  which  the 
priests,  except  such  as  have  been  secretly  gained  over 
to  the  enemy,  carry  on  incessantly,  though  not  with 
the  same  vigor  at  all  times.  The  main  subject  of 
contention  is  a right  claimed  by  the  clergy  to  regulate 
the  dress  of  the  ladies,  and  prevent  the  growth  of  such 
arts  of  charming  as  might  endanger  the  peace  of  the 
church.  Upon  the  appearance  of  a new  fashion,  the 
‘‘  drum  ecclesiastic  ” never  fails  to  sound  the  war-note. 
Innumerable  were  the  sermons  preached  some  years 
ago  against  silk  shoes — for  the  Spanish  ladies  are  so 
extravagant  as  to  wear  them  out  of  doors, — the  wear- 
ing of  which,  especially  if  embroidered  with  silk  or 
gold,  was  declared  by  the  soundest  divines  to  be  a 
mortal  sin.  Patience,  however,  and  that  watchful 
perseverance  with  which  nature  has  armed  the  weaker 
sex  against  the  tyranny  of  the  stronger,  have  gradually 
obtained  a toleration  for  silk  shoes,  while  taste  has  ex- 
tenuated the  sin  by  banishing  the  embroidery.  Yet 
the  demon  of  millinery  had  lately  set  up  another 
stumbling-block  by  slily  suggesting  to  the  ladies  that 
their  dress  was  inconveniently  long,  and  concealed 
those  fairy  feet  and  ankles  which  are  the  pride  of  An- 
dalusia. The  evil  was  the  more  dangerous  as  its 
progress  was  gradual  and  imperceptible.  The  petti- 
coats shrunk  at  first  by  barleycorns  ; half  an  inch  was 
then  pared  off  by  some  bolder  sempstress,  till  at  length 


SPAIN. 


141 


the  ground,  the  former  place  of  safety  for  consecrated 
eyes,  was  found  thickset  with  snares.  In  vain  have 
the  most  powerful  preachers  thundered  against  this 
abomination ; the  case  was  hopeless.  A point  gained 
upon  petticoats  was  sure  to  he  lost  upon  top-knots,  and 
when  the  pious  were  triumphing  on  the  final  subjec- 
tion of  projecting  stays,  a pin  threw  them  into  utter 
confusion  by  altering  its  position  on  the  orthodox 
neck-kerchief. 

The  general  style  of  architecture  in  Spain  is  that 
adapted  to  hot  countries,  though  there  is  some  varia- 
tion in  the  different  kingdoms.  The  most  common 
form  of  houses  is  a quadrangle,  with  flat  roofs,  and  an 
area  in  the  middle  surrounded  with  colonnades  or  gal- 
leries. In  the  centre  is  commonly  a fountain,  and  in 
summer  a canopy  is  drawn  over  the  top,  and  kept  wet 
to  cool  the  air.  Sometimes  the  lower  windows  have 
iron  grates.  There  are  few  chimneys  in  the  south, 
and  the  rooms  are  warmed  by  a pan  or  brazier  of  char- 
coal. There  are  many  noble  Gothic  and  Arabic  struc- 
tures in  Spain,  and  some  remains  of  Eoman  magnifi- 
cence. 

At  the  head  of  the  amusements  of  the  Spanish  nation 
must  be  placed  one  which  belongs  almost  exclusively 
to  this  country,  and  to  which  the  Spaniards  are  sin- 
gularly attached,  notwithstanding  its  condemnation  by 
all  the  rest  of  Europe — namely,  the  bull  fights.  These 
are  exhibited  mostly  in  summer,  as  the  spectators  are 
obliged  to  remain  in  the  open  air,  and  the  animals  are 
then  more  vigorous.  Peculiar  breeds  are  set  apart  for 
this  species  of  sacrifice.  A list  is  delivered  to  the 
spectators,  in  which  are  described  the  number  and  the 


142 


SPAIN. 


country  of  the  victims  whose  torture  is  intended  for 
their  amusement.  The  exhibition  takes  place  in  an 
amphitheatre  with  twenty  rows  of  benches,  the  high- 
est of  which  is  most  coveted;  above  these  are  the 
boxes.  In  some  cities  where  there  is  no  regular 
building  for  the  bull-fights,  a temporary  amphitheatre 
is  erected  in  the  public  square.  The  sight  of  the  peo- 
ple of  every  class  assembled,  expecting  the  signal  for 
battle,  and  exhibiting  in  their  countenances  every  sign 
of  joy  and  impatience,  has  a very  animating  effect. 

The  exhibition  begins  by  a sort  of  procession,  in 
which  the  champions,  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  who 
are  to  attack  the  fierce  animal,  make  their  appearance, 
dressed  in  all  the  elegance  of  Spanish  costume.  The 
picadores  wear  a round  hat,  and  are  half  covered  with 
a short  cloak,  the  sleeves  of  which  float  in  the  air ; 
they  have  white  skin  gaiters,  and  are  mounted  on 
horseback.  Those  on  foot  are  dressed  in  the  lightest 
and  neatest  manner,  and  wear  pumps.  Both  have 
bright  silk  jackets,  trimmed  wfith  ribands,  and  scarfs 
of  different  colors.  Their  hair  is  bound  up  in  large 
silk  nets,  the  fringes  of  which  hang  down  to  the  mid- 
dle. After  the  procession  is  finished,  two  alguazils  on 
horseback,  in  wigs  and  black  robes,  gravely  advance  to 
the  president  of  the  fight  for  an  order  to  begin.  The 
signal  is  immediately  given.  The  bull,  until  then 
shut  up  in  a kind  of  pen,  the  door  of  which  opens  into 
the  circle,  makes  his  appearance.  The  animal  is  at 
first  stunned  by  the  shouts  and  noisy  expressions  of 
w’^elcome  uttered  by  the  multitude.  His  first  combat 
is  with  the  picadores,  who  wait  for  him,  armed  with 
long  lances.  This  exercise,  which  requires  address. 


SPAIN. 


143 


strength  and  courage,  has  nothing  in  it  degrading. 
Formerly,  the  highest  among  the  nobility  did  not  dis- 
dain to  take  a part  in  it. 

The  bull  frequently  attacks  the  picadores  without 
being  provoked,  and  in  this  case,  the  spectators  con- 
ceive a high  opinion  of  his  courage.  If,  notwithstand- 
ing the  pointed  steel  which  repels  his  attack,  he  again 
returns  to  the  charge,  the  cries  are  redoubled,  and 
pleasure  rises  to  enthusiasm.  But  if  the  animal  be 
pacific,  disconcerted  and  cowardly,  and  runs  round  the 
circle,  avoiding  his  persecutors,  murmurs  and  hissing 
resound  throughout  the  amphitheatre.  If  nothing  can 
rouse  his  courage,  he  is  judged  unworthy  of  being 
tormented  by  men,  and  the^  repeated  cries  of  “ dogs  ! 
dogs  ! bring  on  him  new  enemies.  These  are  let 
loose,  and  they  seize  him  by  the  neck  and  ears.  The 
bull  then  applies  his  horns : the  dogs  are  thrown  into 
the  air,  fall,  rise  again,  renew  the  attack,  and  com- 
monly overthrow  their  adversary,  who  thus  ignobly 
perishes. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  he  behaves  with  courage,  his 
career  is  more  glorious,  but  longer  and  more  painful. 
The  first  act  of  the  tragedy  belongs  to  the  combatants 
on  horseback  ; this  is  the  most  animated,  but  the  most 
bloody  and  disgusting  part  of  the  whole.  The  irritat- 
ed animal  braves  the  steel,  which  makes  deep  wounds 
in  his  neck,  falls  furiously  upon  the  horse,  gores  his 
sides,  and  overturns  him  with  his  rider,  who,  in  this 
case,  dismounted  and  disarmed,  is  in  imminent  dan- 
ger, until  the  combatants  on  foot  come  to  him  and  pro- 
voke the  animal,  by  shaking  before  him  cloths  of  dif- 
ferent colors.  But  it  is  not  without  danger  to  them- 


144 


SPAIN. 


selves  that  they  save  the  dismounted  horseman ; the 
bull  often  pursues  them,  and  they  have  need  of  all 
their  agility  to  effect  their  escape.  This  is  done  by 
dropping  the  piece  of  cloth,  which  is  their  only  wea- 
pon, and  upon  which  the  fury  of  the  deceived  animal 
is  exhausted.  But  it  sometimes  happens  that  he  is 
not  thus  imposed  upon,  and  the  champion  has  no  other 
resource  than  leaping  over  the  barrier,  six  feet  high, 
which  forms  the  interior  of  the  circle.  In  some  cases 
the  bull  also  leaps  over  this,  when  the  alarm  of  the 
spectators,  and  their  crowding  upon  the  upper  benches, 
create  indescribable  confusion.  Sometimes  he  returns 
to  the  charge ; his  dismounted  adversary  having  had 
time  to  recover  himself,  immediately  mounts  his  horse 
again,  provided  he  be  not  seriously  wounded,  and  the 
attack  is  renewed  ; but  the  cavalier  is  frequently 
obliged  to  change  his  horse  ; sometimes  seven  or 
eight  horses  have  their  bowels  torn  out  by  the  same 
bull,  and  fall  dead  on  the  field  of  battle.  No  words 
can  then  sufficiently  celebrate  these  acts  of  prowess, 
which  for  several  days  are  the  favorite  subjects  of 
conversation.  The  horses,  astonishing  examples  of 
patience,  courage  and  docility,  at  times,  before  they 
die,  present  a sight  most  revolting  to  humanity : they 
tread  under  their  feet  the  bloody  entrails  which  fall 
from  their  lacerated  sides,  yet  still  obey  the  hand 
which  guides  them. 

A new  act  in  the  piece  now  succeeds.  When  the  bull 
is  deemed  sufficiently  tormented  by  the  combatants  on 
horseback,  these  withdraw  and  leave  him  to  the  cham- 
pions on  foot,  called  banderillos,  who  meet  the  animal, 
and  at  the  moment  when  he  attacks  them,  stick  into 


SPAIN. 


145 


his  neck  a sort  of  arrows,  pointed  like  fish-hooks  and 
ornamented  with  little  streamers  of  colored  paper. 
The  fury  of  the  bull  redoubles ; he  roars  and  bellows, 
but  his  vain  efforts  serve  but  to  increase  the  anguish 
occasioned  by  these  weapons.  This  last  torment  gives 
a fine  opportunity  for  a display  of  the  agility  of  his 
new  adversaries.  The  spectators  at  first  tremble  for 
their  safety,  when  they  see  them  so  near  the  horns  of 
the  animal ; but  their  skilful  hands  inflict  so  sure  a 
blow,  and  they  escape  so  nimbly  from  the  danger,  that 
it  appears  little  more  than  pastime.  When  the 
strength  of  the  bull  appears  almost  exhausted,  and  his 
blood,  flowing  from  twenty  wounds,  pours  from  his 
neck,  the  fury  of  the  spectators  is  at  last  satiated. 
The  president  now  gives  the  sig"'^^  the  animal's 
death,  which  is  announced  by  the  sound  of  drums 
and  trumpets.  The  matador^  or  slayer,  advances  and 
remains  alone  in  the  circle  ; in  one  hand  he  holds  a 
long  knife,  and  in  the  other  a sort  of  flag  which  he 
waves  before  his  enemy.  At  first,  each  stops  and 
looks  at  the  other.  The  impetuosity  of  the  bull  is 
several  times  avoided  by  the  agility  of  the  matador, 
and  the  pleasure  of  the  spectators  is  rendered  more 
lively  by  their  suspense. 

Sometimes  the  animal  remains  immoveable,  scrap- 
ing the  ground  with  his  feet,  and  seeming  to  meditate 
vengeance.  The  bull  in  this  situation,  and  the  mata- 
dor, who  penetrates  his  design  and  carefully  observes 
his  slightest  motion,  form  a striking  picture.  The 
assembly  contemplate  this  dumb  scene  in  silence. 

At  length  the  matador  gives  the  fatal  blow,  and  if 
the  animal  immediately  falls,  the  triumph  of  the  con- 
XIX.— 13 


146 


SPAIN. 


queror  is  celebrated  by  a thousand  exclamations  ; but 
if  the  blow  be  not  decisive  and  the  bull  survive,  the 
murmurs  are  equally  emphatic,  and  the  matador  is 
looked  upon  as  a clumsy  butcher.  He  instantly  re- 
solves to  retrieve  his  reputation ; his  zeal  becomes  blind 
fury,  and  his  partizans  tremble  for  his  life.  At  length 
he  gives  a successful  blow  ; the  animal  vomits  streams 
of  blood,  staggers  and  falls  dead.  The  amphitheatre 
rings  with  applauses,  then  mules  covered  with  bells 
and  banners  terminate  the  exhibition,  dragging  the 
bull  by  his  horns  out  of  the  arena. 

Sometimes  eighteen  or  twenty  bulls  are  thus  killed 
in  a single  day.  The  last  three  are  left  exclusively 
to  the  matador,  who,  deprived  of  all  assistance  from 
the  picadore.;^  ^’^’^^oys  his  dexterity  to  vary  the 
pleasure  of  the  spectators.  He  sometimes  allows  an 
intrepid  stranger,  mounted  upon  another  bull,  to  com- 
bat them  ; at  other  times  he  turns  a bear  against  them. 
The  last  bull  is  particularly  devoted  to  the  entertain- 
ment of  the  populace  : the  tips  of  his  horns  are  covered 
with  a round  case,  which  diminishes  the  effect  of  his 
strokes  ; the  spectators  descend  in  crowds  to  torment 
him,  each  after  his  own  way,  and  often  pay  for  their 
cruel  pleasure  by  violent  contusions  : but  the  animal 
always  falls  at  last  under  the  blows  of  the  matador. 

The  Spaniards  look  upon  the  bull-fights  as  one 
means  of  preserving  in  their  nation  a courageous  and 
energetic  spirit : yet  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  how 
these  qualities  can  be  nourished  by  a spectacle,  where 
those  who  look  on  are  exposed  to  no  danger,  and 
where  the  actors  prove  by  the  rarity  of  accidents,  that 
the  hazard  they  run  is  not  of  a nature  to  excite  much 


SPAIN. 


147 


concern.  Spanish  gentlemen  sometimes  fight  in  pub- 
lic with  the  hulls ; hut  this  does  not  often  take  place, 
except  at  the  coronation  of  the  kings  and  in  their  pres- 
ence. Such  noblemen  as  are  able  to  engage  in  the 
perilous  sport,  volunteer  their  services  for  the  sake  of 
the  reward,  which  is  some  valuable  place  under  gcv- 
ernment,  if  they  prefer  this  to  an  order  of  knighthood. 
They  appear  on  horseback,  attended  by  the  first  pro- 
fessional fighters  on  foot. 

The  city  corporation  of  Seville  enjoy  the  singular 
privilege  of  being  the  exclusive  butchers  of  the  place. 
They  alone  have  a right  to  kill  and  sell  meat,  which, — 
passing  through  their  noble  hands,  for  this  government 
is  entailed  on  the  first  Andalusian  families — is  the 
worst  and  dearest  in  all  Spain.  Two  droves  of  lean 
cattle  are  brought  every  week,  to  a large  slaughter- 
house near  one  of  the  city  gates.  To  walk  in  that 
neighborhood  when  the  cattle  approach,  is  dangerous, 
for  notwithstanding  the  emaciated  condition  of  the  ani- 
mals, and  though  many  are  oxen  and  cows,  a crowd  is 
sure  to  collect,  and  by  the  waving  of  their  cloaks,  and 
a sharp  whistling,  which  they  make  through  their  fin- 
gers, they  generally  succeed  in  dispersing  the  drove 
in  order  to  single  out  the  fiercest  for  their  amusement. 
Nothing  but  the  Spanish  cloak  is  used  on  these  occa- 
sions. Holding  it  gracefully  at  arm’s  length  before 
the  body,  so  as  to  conceal  the  person  from  the  breast 
to  the  feet,  they  wave  it  in  the  eyes  of  the  animal, 
shaking  their  heads  with  an  air  of  defiance,  calling 
out,  “ Ha  ! Toro,  Toro  ! ” The  bull  pauses  a moment 
before  he  rushes  upon  the  nearest  object,  and  shuts  his 
eyes,  it  is  said,  at  the  instant  of  pushing  with  his 


148 


SPAIN. 


horns.  The  man,  keeping  his  cloak  suspended,  flings 
it  over  the  head  of  the  animal,  while  he  glances  his 
body  to  the  left  just  when  the  bull,  urged  forward  by  the 
original  impulse,  must  run  on  a few  yards  without 
being  able  to  turn  upon  his  adversary,  whom,  upon 
wheeling  round,  he  finds  prepared  to  delude  him  as 
before.  This  sport  is  exceedingly  lively,  and  when 
practised  by  proficients  in  the  art,  is  seldom  attended 
with  danger.  Within  the  walls  of  the  slaughter-house, 
however,  is  the  place  where  the  bull-fighters  by  profes- 
sion are  allowed  to  practise  for  improvement.  A mem- 
ber of  the  city  corporation  presides,  and  admits,  gratis, 
his  friends,  among  whom,  notwithstanding  the  filth 
natural  to  such  places,  ladies  do  not  disdain  to  appear. 
The  slaughter-house  is  so  well  known  as  a school  for 
bull-fighting  that  it  bears  the  cant  appellation  of  the 
College,  Many  of  the  first  noblesse  have  frequented 
no  other  seminary : but  this  fashion  is  now  wearing 
away. 

Among  the  amusements  of  the  Spaniards  may  be 
reckoned  the  festivals  of  the  Catholic  church,  which 
are  so  numerous  that  we  have  not  room  to  specify 
them.  Many  of  the  ceremonies  do  not  yield  in  mag- 
nificence and  imposing  effect,  to  those  of  any  country 
in  Christendom.  The  attachment  of  the  Spaniard  to 
J,lle  external  forms  of  his  religion,  is  notorious.  At 
Seville,  the  Passion  Week  is  celebrated  with  such  a 
degree  of  pomp  and  enthusiasm  that  the  people  have  a 
standing  joke  on  the  subject  at  the  expense  of  the  Se- 
villians, and  affirm  that,  on  the  arrival  of  the  king  in 
that  city  during  summer,  it  was  moved  by  a worthy 
member  of  the  municipality  to  get  up  a Passion  Week 
extra,  for  the  amusement  of  his  majesty. 


SPAIN. 


149 


The  attachment  of  the  Spaniards  to  the  Catholic 
religion  has  long  been  such  as  to  form  a striking 
national  characteristic.  The  numbers  of  the  clergy 
and  of  the  monastic  orders  have  been  proportionably 
greater  than  in  any  other  country.  According  to  an 
official  statement  drawn  up  in  1812,  one  fourth  of  the 
landed  property  of  the  kingdom,  beside  tithes,  and  other 
casual  sources  of  income,  belonged  to  the  ecclesiastical 
body,  and  their  whole  annual  revenue  was  not  less  than 
fifty-four  millions  of  dollars.  The  income  of  some  of 
the  higher  clergy  was  immense,  and  the  archbishop  of 
Toledo  received  at  least  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
dollars  a year. 

A revolution  has,  however,  been  effected  in  respect 
to  these  abuses.  The  church  property  has  been  con- 
fiscated, and  the  government  has  undertaken  to  support 
the  clergy.  At  the  same  time,  by  the  constitution  of 
1836,  the  monasteries  have  been  suppressed,  at  least 
so  far  as  to  derive  no  support  from  law.  It  may  be 
proper,  however,  to  give  a sketch  of  one  of  the  most 
interesting  circumstances  connected  with  monastic  in- 
stitutions — that  which  withdraws  a youthful  female 
from  the  active  service  of  life,  and  consigns  her  forever 
to  the  vigils  of  the  cloister. 

With  profound  sagacity  the  church  has  disguised  these 
awful  rites  with  the  pomp  and  gayety  which  mankind 
have  unanimously  bestowed  on  the  triumph  of  legitimate 
love.  The  whole  process  is  studiously  made  to  represent 
a wedding.  The  subject,  generally  in  her  fifteenth  year, 
finds  herself,  for  some  time  previous  to  her  taking  the 
veil,  the  queen,  nay,  the  idol,  of  the  whole  monas- 
tic community  which  has  obtained  her  preference, 
j 13* 


150 


SPAIN. 


She  is  constantly  addressed  by  the  name  of  Iride^  and 
sees  nothing  but  gay  preparations  for  the  expected  day 
of  her  spiritual  nuptials. 

Attired  in  a splendid  dress,  and  decked  with  the 
jewels  of  her  family  and  friends,  she  takes  public  leave 
of  her  acquaintances,  visits,  on  her  way  to  the  convent, 
several  other  nunneries,  to  be  seen  and  admired  by 
the  recluse  inhabitants,  and  even  the  crowds  which 
collect  in  her  progress  follow  her  with  tears  and  bless- 
ings. As  she  approaches  the  church  of  her  monas- 
tery, the  dignified  ecclesiastic  who  is  to  perform  the 
ceremony  meets  the  intended  novice  at  the  door,  and 
leads  her  to  the  altar  amid  the  sounds  of  bells  and 
musical  instruments.  The  monastic  weeds  are  blessed 
by  the  priest  in  her  presence ; and,  having  embraced 
her  parents  and  nearest  relations,  she  is  led  by  the 
lady  who  acts  as  bride’s-maid  to  the  small  door  next 
to  the  double  grating  which  separates  the  nuns’  choir 
from  the  body  of  the  church.  A curtain  is  drawn, 
while  the  abbess  cuts  off  the  hair  of  the  novice,  and 
strips  her  of  her  worldly  ornaments.  On  the  removal 
of  the  curtain,  she  appears  in  the  monastic  garb,  sur- 
rounded by  the  nuns  bearing  lighted  tapers,  her  face 
covered  with  the  white- veil  of  probationship,  fixed  on 
the  head  by  a wreath  of  flowers.  After  the  Te  Deum^ 
or  some  other  hymn  of  thanksgiving,  the  friends  of 
the  family  partake'  of  a collation  of  ices  and  sweet- 
meats, which  are  served  up  in  the  presence  of  the 
seeming  bride,  who,  with  the  principal  nuns,  attends 
behind  the  grating  which  separates  the  visitors  from 
the  inmates  of  the  convent.  In  the  more  rigid  estab- 
lishments, the  parting  visit  is  omitted,  and  the  sight  of 


SPAIN. 


151 


the  novice  in  the  white  veil,  immediately  after  having 
her  hair  cut  olf,  is  the  last  which,  for  a whole  year,  is 
granted  to  the  parents.  They  again  see  her  on  the 
day  when  she  binds  herself  with  the  irrevocable  vows, 
never  to  behold  her  more,  unless  they  should  live  to 
see  her  again  crowned  with  flowers  when  she  is  laid 
in  the  grave. 

Instances  of  novices  quitting  the  convent  during  the 
year  of  probation  are  extremely  rare.  The  ceremony 
of  taking  the  veil  is  too  solemn,  and  bears  too  much 
the  character  of  a public  engagement,  to  allow  full 
liberty  of  choice  during  the  subsequent  novitiate.  The 
timid  mind  of  a girl  shrinks  from  the  idea  of  appearing 
again  in  the  world  under  the  tacit  reproach  of  fickle- 
ness and  relaxed  devotion.  The  nuns,  besides,  do  not 
forget  their  duty  during  the  nominal  trial  of  the  novice, 
and  she  lives  a whole  year  the  object  of  their  caresses. 
The  vow  once  taken,  the  devotee  bids  an  eternal  adieu 
to  the  world. 

The  severity  of  the  discipline,  to  which  the  nuns  are 
subjected,  varies  in  different  institutions.  Their  dress 
is  a tunic  of  sackcloth,  tied  round  the  waist  with  a 
knotted  rope.  The  general  rule  allows  them  no  linen, 
either  for  clothing  or  bedding.  Woollen  of  the  coarsest 
kind  frets  their  bodies  day  and  night,  even  during  the 
burning  heats  of  summer.  A mantle  of  the  same 
sackcloth  is  the  only  addition  which  the  nuns  make  to 
their  dress  in  winter  ; while  their  feet,  shod  with  open 
sandals,  and  without  either  socks  or  stockings,  are 
exposed  to  the  sharp  winter  blasts,  and  the  deadening 
chill  of  the  brick  floors.  A band  of  coarse  linen,  two 
inches  in  breadth,  is  worn  by  the  Capuchin  nuns, 


152 


SPAIN. 


bound  six  or  eight  times  round  the  head,  in  remem- 
brance, it  is  said,  of  the  crown  of  thorns.  The  utmost 
indulgence,  as  to  communication  with  parents  and 
brothers,  extends  to  a short  conversation  once  a month, 
in  the  presence  of  one  of  the  elder  nuns,  behind  a 
thick  curtain  spread  on  the  inner  side  of  an  iron 
grating,  which  completely  intercepts  the  view.  Even 
this  was  not  allowed  among  the  Capuchin  nuns,  and 
the  religious  vows  put  a final  end  to  all  intercourse 
between  the  child  “ given  up  to  God  ” and  her  earthly 
parents. 

Such  was  the  character  of  the  nunneries  of  Spain, 
up  to  a recent  date.  The  ecclesiastical  establishments 
of  the  country  are  still  in  an  unsettled  state,  and  the 
final  issue  of  the  late  changes  cannot  yet  be  foreseen  ; 
but  there  is  good  reason  to  hope  that  the  harsh  features 
of  these  institutions  will  soon  disappear  before  the 
softening  influence  of  civilization,  already  advancing, 
even  in  that  country,  with  rapid  strides. 

Nothing  contrasts  more  strongly  with  the  general 
gravity  of  the  Spaniards  than  their  favorite  dance,  the 
fandango  — a pastime  truly  national,  and  full  of  ex- 
pression, and  one  which  foreigners  at  first  behold  with 
disapprobation,  but  with  which  they  become  fascinated 
at  last.  No  sooner  does  the  music  of  the  fandango 
strike  up,  than  every  countenance  becomes  animated, 
and  even  those  among  the  spectators  who,  from  their 
age  and  profession,  are  most  inclined  to  gravity,  have 
much  difficulty  in  preventing  themselves  from  joining 
in  the  cadence.  It  is  related  that  the  court  of  Rome, 
scandalized  that  a country  renowned  for  the  purity  of 


SPAIN. 


153 


Its  faith,  should  tolerate  this  profane  dance,  resolved  to 
pronounce  its  formal  condemnation.  An  ecclesiastical 
consistory  was  assembled,  the  prosecution  of  the  fan- 
dango was  begun,  and  sentence  was  about  to  be  thun- 
dered against  it,  when  one  of  the  judges  observed  that 
a criminal  ought  not  to  be  condemned  'without  being 
heard.  This  suggestion  was  approved  by  the  assem- 
bly : two  persons  were  brought  in  and  there  exhibited 
all  the  graces  of  the  fandango,  to  the  sound  of  music. 
The  severe  temper  of  the  judges  was  not  proof  against 
the  exhibition ; their  austere  countenances  began  by 
degrees  to  relax ; they  rose  from  their  seats  ; their 
limbs  began  to  move  in  cadence  with  the  tune ; the 
court  of  consistory  was  suddenly  changed  into  a hall 
of  dancers,  and  the  fandango  was  acquitted. 

After  such  a triumph  it  may  be  imagined  that  com- 
mon scruples  have  but  little  effect  against  this  bewitch- 
ing dance,  and  its  empire  seems  to  be  fully  established. 
It  is,  however,  different  in  different  places.  It  is  fre- 
quently called  for  at  the  theatre,  and  generally  closes 
private  dances.  In  these  cases,  the  peculiar  character 
is  no  more  than  lightly  indicated  ; but  on  other  occa- 
sions, where  a few  persons  assembled,  shake  off  all 
scruples,  the  meaning  is  then  so  marked  that  the  ex- 
hibition approaches  at  least  the  limits  of  modesty. 
They  have  in  Spain,  a dance  yet  more  voluptuous 
than  the  fandango,  called  the  Bolero^  but  it  belongs 
rather  to  the  provinces  than  to  the  capital.  Andalusia,, 
in  particular,  appears  to  be  its  natural  country ; a rem- 
nant of  decency  has  banished  it  generally  from  private 
balls ; it  is,  however,  given  on  the  stage.  A third 
dance  peculiar  to  the  Spaniards  is  the  Sequidilla.  A 


154 


SPAIN. 


Spanish  female  practising  this  dance,  dressed  in  char- 
acter, accompanying  the  instruments  with  castanets, 
and  marking  the  measures  with  uncommon  precision, 
is  esteemed  one  of  the  most  seducing  objects  which 
love  can  employ  to  extend  his  empire.  The  Spaniards 
have  a decided  taste  for  dancing,  and  private  balls  are 
very  frequent.  They  have  a sort  of  president,  called 
bastonero,  whose  duty  it  is  to  see  that  good  order 
reigns  in  the  midst  of  pleasure. 

The  Spaniards  in  general  seldom  assemble  to  dine 
or  sup  at  each  other’s  houses.  They  are  little  ac- 
quainted with  the  innocent  and  healthful  pleasures  of 
the  country ; and  few  among  them  are  fond  even  of 
the  chase,  which  in  England  is  pursued  with  a fond- 
ness amounting  to  a passion.  The  rich  Spaniards  con- 
centrate all  their  pleasures  within  the  cities.  Music 
is  one  of  those  for  which  all  classes  have  the  greatest 
taste,-  and  they  cultivate  this  art  with  success  ; not 
that  their  national  music  has  made  any  great  progress  : 
it  is  to  be  found  mostly  in  little  detached  airs  called 
toriadillos  and  seguidillas  : these  are  sometimes  agree- 
able melodies,  but  the  modulations  are  little  varied, 
and  show  that  the  art  of  composition  is  still  in  its 
infancy. 

Balls  and  concerts  are  not  the  only  entertainments 
at  which  the  Spaniards  assem.ble.  They  have  their 
tertuUas  and  refrescos.  The  former  are  assemblies 
similar  to  the  Italian  conversazioni.  Women  in  gene- 
ral seek  occasions  to  meet  together  : each  ftspires  to 
be  the  centre  of  a tertulia,  and  exclusive  pretensions 
contribute  to  banish  from  Spanish  society  what  is 
called  French  gallantry.  The  refrescos  contribute  no 


SPAIN. 


155 


less  than  the  tertulias  to  facilitate  the  intercourse  be- 
tween the  sexes.  In  general,  these  are  only  light 
repasts,  prepared  for  persons  from  whom  visits  are 
received,  and  are  a sort  of  prelude  to  the  tertulias  : but 
on  great  occasions,  as  when  a wedding,  christening, 
or  the  birth-day  of  the  head  of  the  family  is  to  be  cele- 
brated, the  refresco  becomes  an  important  and  expen- 
sive affair.  All  the  family  acquaintances  are  invited, 
and  as  they  arrive,  the  men  are  separated  from  the 
women.  The  latter  take  their  seats  in  a particular 
room,  and  etiquette  requires  that  they  should  remain 
alone  till  all  the  company  be  assembled,  or  at  least 
until  the  men  stand  up  without  approaching  them.  The 
lady  of  the  house  waits  for  the  company  under  a canopy 
in  a place  set  apart  in  the  hall.  The  appearance  of 
refreshments  at  length  enlivens  every  countenance  and 
infuses  joy  into  every  heart : conversation  becomes 
animated,  and  the  two  sexes  approach  each  other. 
The  company  are  first  offered  great  glasses  of  water, 
in  which  sugar  has  been  dissolved ; these  are  succeed- 
ed by  chocolate,  the  favorite  refreshment,  twice  a day, 
of  the  Spaniards.  After  the  chocolate  comes  confec- 
tionary of  all  sorts.  People  are  not  only  cloyed  with 
it  in  the  house  of  festivity,  but  they  carry  away  quanti- 
ties in  papers,  and  even  in  their  hats  and  handkerchiefs. 
A stranger  admitted  for  the  first  time  to  this  sort  of 
festival,  in  which  intoxicating  liquors  only  are  spared, 
can  hardly  believe  the  Spaniards  to  be  the  grave  and 
sober  people  which  he  has  imagined  them.  A ball  or 
card-table  commonly  follows  the  refresco,  and  the  enter- 
tainment is  sometimes  concluded  with  a supper. 

Breakfast  in  Spain  is  not  a regular  meal.  It  gene- 


SPAIN. 


lo6 

rally  consists  of  chocolate,  and  buttered  toast  or  muf- 
fins. Irish  salt  butter  is  very  much  in  use,  as  the  heat 
of  the  climate  does  not  allow  the  luxuries  of  the  dairy, 
except  in  the  mountainous  tracts  in  the  north.  Every 
one  calls  for  his  chocolate  whenever  it  suits  him,  and 
most  people  take  it  when  they  come  from  m.ass,  a 
ceremony  seldom  omitted,  even  by  those  who  cannot 
he  reckoned  among  the  highly  religious.  After  break- 
fast, the  gentlemen  repair  to  their  occupations ; and  the 
ladies,  who  seldom  call  upon  one  another,  often  enjoy 
the  amusement  of  music,  and  a sermon  at  church. 
About  noon  the  ladies  are  “ at  home,”  where,  employ- 
ed at  their  needle,  they  expect  the  morning  calls  of 
their  friends.  Supper  is  a frugal  repast,  and  one  at 
which  the  family  rarely  assemble. 

The  cookery  of  the  Spaniards,  such  as  they  received 
it  from  their  ancestors,  is  not  of  a nature  to  please 
strangers.  They  are  fond  of  high  seasonings ; pepper, 
pimento  and  saffron  season  or  color  most  of  their 
dishes.  One  of  them,  only,  has  found  favor  out  of 
Spain,  and  the  French  kitchen  has  not  disdained  to 
adopt  it.  This  is  the  olla  podrida,  a sort  of  hotch- 
potch of  every  kind  of  meat  cooked  together.  There 
is,  however,  generally  a mixture  in  Spanish  cookery, 
except  in  some  obscure  families  attached  to  ancient 
customs;  in  most  houses,  it  participates  of  the  French 
mode,  and  in  some,  this  has  wholly  supplanted  that 
of  Spain.  When  a Spaniard  gives  a dinner,  which 
is  a rare  occurrence,  it  is  cooked  at  the  inn,  and  knives, 
forks  and  dishes  are  sent  with  it ; for  there  is  no  very 
abundant  supply  of  these  articles  in  Spanish  houses. 
It  is  not  considered  proper  for  a guest  to  accept  at 


SPAIN. 


157 


once  an  invitation  to  dine ; he  replies  by  giving 
“ a thousand  thanks,”  which  is  equivalent  to  declining 
respectfully.  On  the  invitation  being  repeated,  he 
says,  “ Do  not  engage  in  such  a concern ; ” and  it  is 
only  the  third  invitation  which  he  thinks  it  decent  to 
accept. 

The  wines  of  Spain  are  excellent,  but  the  best  of 
them  are  hardly  known  out  of  the  country,  as  they  are 
the  produce  of  the  interior  of  a territory  that  is  with- 
out roads  or  canals.  The  wdnes  of  the  interior  are 
generally  transported  in  lorrachos,  or  bags  of  skins, 
which  communicate  an  unpleasant  taste  to  the  liquor. 
Notwithstanding  the  abundance  and  cheapness  of  wine 
and  brandy,  such  a thing  as  intoxication  is  hardly 
known  among  the  people. 

The  Spaniards  travel  but  little.  The  roads  are  bad, 
the  vehicles  are  bad,  and  the  inns  are  bad ; to  which 
may  be  added,  the  danger  from  robbers.  The  incon- 
venience and  hazard,  as  well  as  the  expense  attending 
journeys  are  such,  that  hardly  any  one  travels  for 
pleasure  or  curiosity.  Most  Spaniards  pass  the  whole 
of  their  lives  within  their  own  province,  and  few  among 
the  females  ever  lose  sight  of  the  town  that  gave  them 
birth.  The  most  comfortable  mode  of  travelling,  on 
the  whole,  is  on  horseback  or  on  mules.  Travellers 
commonly  provide  themselves  with  a short  loose  jacket 
and  small  clothes  of  brown  serge ; thick  leather  gait- 
ers ; a cloak  tied  up  in  a roll  on  the  pommel  of  the 
saddle,  and  a stout  spencer.  Each  man  is  armed  with 
a musket,  hanging  by  a hook  on  a ring,  which  all  trav- 
elling saddles  are  furnished  with  for  that  purpose. 
Robbers  seldom  attack  people  on  horseback,  provided 
XIX. — 14 


158 


SPAIN. 


they  take  care  never  to  pass  any  wooded  ground  with- 
out separating  to  the  distance  of  a musket  shot  from 
each  other. 

The  best  sort  of  country  inn  consists  of  a large  hall 
contiguous  to  the  street  or  road,  and  paved  with 
round  stones.  At  one  end  of  this  hall  is  a large  hearth, 
raised  about  a foot  from  the  ground.  A wood,  fire  is 
constantly  burning  upon  it,  and  travellers  of  all  ranks 
and  degrees  are  glad  to  take  a seat  near  it,  where  they 
enjoy  the  wit  and  humor  of  the  carriers,  coachmen  and 
clowns,  and  a close  view  of  the  hostess,  or  her  maid, 
dressing  successively  in  the  same  frying-pan,  now  an 
omelet  of  eggs  and  onions,  now  a dish  of  fried  fish 
with  oil  and  tomatos,  or,  it  may  be,  the  limbs  of  a 
tough  fowl,  which  but  a few  moments  before  had  been 
strutting  about  the  house.  The  doors  of  the  bed- 
rooms, as  well  as  that  of  the  stable  yard,  all  open  into 
the  hall.  Leaving  a sufficient  space  for  carriages  and 
horses  to  cross  from  the  front  door  to  the  stables,  the 
Spanish  carriers,  who  travel  in  parties  of  twenty  or 
thirty  men  and  double  that  number  of  mules,  range 
themselves  at  night  along  the  walls,  each  upon  his 
large  pack-saddle,  with  no  other  covering  than  a kind 
of  horse-cloth.  In  some  inns,  the  traveller  may  find  a 
meal,  but  in  others  they  can  only  cook  such  provisions 
as  he  has  carried  with  him. 

On  some  of  the  roads  there  are  diligences  drawn  by 
mules,  affording  a tolerably  comfortable  conveyance ; 
another  vehicle  is  called  a galera,  or  galley,  a long 
covered  wagon  for  passengers  and  merchandize.  No 
part  of  Spain  is  free  from  robbers;  and  if  they  find  little 
to  plunder  on  a traveller,  they  usually  give  him  a 


SPAIN. 


159 


severe  beating ; it  is  therefore  not  uncommon  to  carry 
a silver  watch  of  small  value,  and  a few  dollars  in 
silver,  to  be  surrendered  as  a peace-offering.  This  is 
considered  as  one  of  the  regular  expenses  of  the  road, 
and  the  rest  of  the  money  is  taken  in  drafts.  There 
are  often  guards  to  the  diligences,  but  they  have  some- 
times an  understanding  with  the  robbers,  and  the  dan- 
ger of  the  traveller  is  thought  to  be  in  proportion  to 
the  strength  of  his  escort.  Some  diligences  compound 
with  the  robbers,  who  are  often  well  known,  by  pay- 
ing black  mail  for  security. 

Spain  is  little  visited  by  those  who  travel  for  health 
or  pleasure ; the  inhabitants  do  not  receive  foreigners 
with  a welcome,  especially  those  of  the  Protestant  reli- 
gion. Improvement,  and  innovations  of  every  sort, 
have  been  systematically  opposed  by  the  government, 
and  the  condition  of  the  people  has  been  kept  so  sta- 
tionary, that  the  Spanish  character  has  suffered  less 
change  for  many  centuries  than,  perhaps,  that  of  any 
other  nation  in  Christendom.  There  is  a saying  that 
Adam  once  returned  to  the  earth,  where  he  recognised 
no  country  but  Spain.  “ Ah,’’  said  he,  “ this  is 
exactly  as  I left  it.” 

The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Portuguese  are 
so  similar  to  those  of  Spain,  that  in  a general  work, 
like  the  present,  it  seems  unnecessary  to  notice  them 
separately.  The  language  of  Portugal  is  so  similar  to 
Spanish,  that  it  may  be  regarded  as  a dialect  of  that 
tongue. 


THE  GYPSIES. 


The  Gypsies  are  a singular  phenomenon  in  Europe. 
They  are  a people  scattered  among  almost  all  the 
continental  nations,  hut  entirely  distinct  from  the  rest 
of  the  population.  What  appears  particularly  worthy 
of  remark  is,  that  neither  lapse  of  time,  nor  climate, 
nor  the  example  or  institutions  of  the  nations  ammng 
whom  they  dwell,  seem  to  exert  the  slightest  influence 
upon  them.  For  a period  of  more  than  four  hundred 
years  they  have  been  strolling  over  Europe  like 


THE  GYPSIES. 


161 


foreigners  and  strangers  ; they  are  found  in  the  east- 
ern and  western  countries,  among  rude  and  indolent, 
as  well  as  among  civilized  and  active  people  ; yet  they 
remain  everywhere  what  their  fathers  were.  Africa 
makes  them  no  blacker,  nor  Europe  whiter ; they 
neither  learn  to  be  lazy  in  Spain,  nor  diligent  in  Ger- 
many ; they  neither  reverence  Christ  in  Christendom, 
nor  Mahomet  in  Turkey.  Around  them,  on  every  side, 
they  see  fixed  dwellings  with  settled  inhabitants  : they, 
nevertheless,  go  on  in  their  own  way,  and  continue 
for  the  most  part  unsettled,  roving  pilferers  and 
robbers. 

When  we  search  for  similar  cases  among  races  of 
men  who  have  quitted  their  mother  country  and 
inhabited  a foreign  land,  we  do  not  meet  with  a single 
instance  parallel  to  this.  History,  indeed,  informs  us 
of  people  who  have  migrated  to  strange  countries, 
hut  they  have  either  been  expelled  by  conquerors,  or 
have  been  the  conquerors  themselves,  and  in  all  cases, 
have  adopted,  more  or  less,  the  manners  of  their  new 
homes.  The  Franks  became  Gauls  in  the  country 
which  they  conquered.  The  Mantchoo  Tartars  van- 
quished the  Chinese,  hut  were  themselves  vanquished 
by  the  civilization  of  China.  It  is  difficult  to  explain, 
therefore,  how  the  Gypsies,  who  never  established 
themselves  in  any  country  by  force,  and,  being  bigoted 
to  their  manners  and  customs  by  religion,  never  obtained 
toleration  from  government,  remain  unchanged,  and 
resemble  each  other  exactly  in  every  place.  It  is  no- 
where recorded,  in  what  year,  or  in  what  part  of 
Europe,  the  Gypsies  made  their  first  appearance  ; hut 
it  is  clear  that  they  did  not  originate  in  this  quarter  of 
14* 


162 


THE  GYPSIES. 


the  globe.  The  names  by  which  they  are  known  differ 
according  to  the  country  in  which  they  reside,  though, 
with  one  or  two  exceptions,  not  materially.  In  Russia 
they  are  styled  Zigani ; in  Turkey  and  Persia,  Zin- 
garri ; in  Germany,  Zigeuner ; and  in  Spain,  Zincali. 
The  meaning  of  this  last  word  is  believed  to  be  the 
black  men  of  Zend  or  Ind,  In  Spain  they  are  also 
called  Gitanos,  and  in  England,  Gypsies,  from  a gen- 
eral belief  that  they  were  originally  Egyptians.  In 
France  they  are  known  by  the  name  of  Bohemians, 
from  the  circumstance  that  Bohemia  was  the  first 
country  in  civilized  Europe  where  they  attracted 
attention,  though  there  is  reason  for  supposing  that 
they  had  been  wandering  in  the  remote  regions  of 
Sclavonia  for  a considerable  time  previous.  But  the 
Gypsies  generally  style  themselves,  and  the  language 
which  they  speak,  Rommany,  a word  of  Sanscrit 
origin,  signifying  The  Husbands,  or  what  belongs  to 
them. 

Mention  is  made  of  them  in  Germany  as  early  as 
the  year  1417,  when  they  appeared  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  North  Sea ; the  next  year  we  find  them  in  Swit- 
zerland. In  1422  they  were  known  in  Italy,  and  a few 
years  after,  in  France  and  Spain.  They  did  not  travel 
in  a single  body,  but  in  separate  hordes,  each  having 
its  leader,  sometimes  called  a count ; others  gave 
themselves  out  for  dukes  and  kings  of  Lesser  Egypt. 
People  believed  them  to  be  Egyptians  and  pilgrims,  who 
were  constrained  to  wander  on  some  religious  account. 
The  Gypsies  told  fabulous  stories  to  spread  this  belief, 
and  these  were  received  with  such  credulity,  that  they 
were  everywhere  allowed  free  passage.  This  golden 


THE  GYPSIES. 


163 


age  of  the  Gypsies  lasted  half  a century,  when  their 
impostures  were  exposed,  and  they  were  discovered  to 
he  vagabonds  and  robbers.  From  this  period  they  be- 
gan to  suffer  persecution. 

From  an  examination  of  their  language,  there 
seems  little  doubt  that  the  Gypsies  came  originally 
from  Hindostan,  and  that  they  left  that  country  at  the 
time  of  the  invasion  of  Timour.  They  seem  to  have 
belonged  to  one  of  the  very  lowest  of  the  classes  of  Hin- 
doos, which  resemble  them  at  the  present  day  in  their 
appearance  and  habits,  especially  in  their  fondness  for 
carrion  and  other  unclean  food.  The  Gypsies  have 
no  traditions  or  records  concerning  their  origin,  and 
are  as  ignorant  on  this  subject  as  the  American 
Indians.  They  have,  however,  many  eastern  notions, 
and  are  strongly  attached  to  their  own  habits ; every 
custom,  every  fancy,  which  has  once  been  current 
among  them,  be  it  ever  so  noxious  or  absurd,  is  invaria- 
bly preserved ; and  any  affection  which  has  once  pre- 
dominated in  their  minds,  retains  its  dominion  for  ages. 

A traveller  who  has  had  opportunities  of  observing 
these  people  in  almost  every  country  where  they  exist, 
assures  us  that  the  Gypsy  race  is  by  nature  the  most 
beautiful,  perhaps,  in  the  world ; but  exposure  to  the 
rays  of  the  burning  sun,  the  biting  of  the  frost,  and 
the  pelting  of  the  rain  and  snow,  destroys  their  beauty 
at  a very  early  age ; and  if  in  infancy  their  personal 
advantages  are  remarkable,  their  ugliness  at  an  ad- 
vanced age  is  no  less  so ; for  then  it  is  loathsome,  and 
even  appalling,  verifying  the  adage  that  it  requires  an 
angel  to  make  a demon. 

We  may  begin  our  description  with  the  Gypsies  of 


164 


THE  GYPSIES. 


Russia,  who  are  found  in  all  parts  of  that  country, 
excepting  at  St.  Petersburg,  from  which  they  have  been 
banished.  In  most  of  the  provincial  towns  they  are  to 
be  found,  in  a half  civilized  state,  supporting  themselves 
by  trafficking  in  horses  and  doctoring  those  animals  ; 
but  the  greater  part  reject  a settled  life,  and  traverse 
the  country  in  bands, — the  immense  grassy  plains  of 
Russia  affording  pasturage  for  their  herds  of  cattle,  on 
which,  and  the  produce  of  the  chase,  they  chiefly  de- 
pend for  subsistence ; they  also  practise  fortune-telling, 
and  sometimes  robbery.  Their  power  of  resisting  cold 
is  wonderful : it  is  not  uncommon  to  find  them  encamp- 
ed in  the  midst  of  the  snow,  in  slight  canvas  tents, 
when  the  weather  is  twenty-five  or  thirty  degrees 
below  zero. 

Russia  exhibits  a phenomenon  in  the  history  of  this 
strange  people  unparalleled  in  any  other  quarter. 
Among  the  Gypsies  of  Moscow  there  are  many  who 
inhabit  stately  houses,  go  abroad  in  elegant  equipages, 
and  are  not  behind  the  higher  order  of  Russians,  either 
in  appearance  or  mental  acquirements.  To  the  female 
part  of  the  Gypsy  colony  of  Moscow  is  to  be  attrib- 
uted the  merit  of  this  partial  rise  from  degradation. 
They  had  for  a long  time  so  successfully  cultivated 
the  vocal  art,  that  the  Gypsy  choirs  there  were  un- 
rivalled in  excellence.  It  is  a fact  well  known  in 
Russia,  that  the  famous  Catalani  was  so  enchanted 
with  the  performance  of  one  of  these  songsters — (who, 
after  the  former  had  displayed  her  noble  Italian  talent 
before  a splendid  audience  at  Moscow,  stepped  for- 
ward and  with  an  astonishing  burst  of  almost  angelic 
melody,  enraptured  every  ear) — that  she  tore  from  her 


THE  GYPSIES. 


165 


own  shoulders  a Cashmere  shawl,  which  had  been 
presented  to  her  by  the  Pope,  and,  embracing  the 
Gypsy,  insisted  on  her  acceptance  of  the  splendid  gift. 
The  sums  obtained  by  these  Gypsy  females  in  the 
exercise  of  their  art,  enable  them  to  support  their  rel- 
atives in  affluence.  Some  of  them  are  married  to 
Russians  of  character  and  standing  in  society. 

The  Gypsy,  wherever  you  find  him,  is  an  incom- 
prehensible being,  but  nowhere  more  so  than  in  Hun- 
gary, where,  in  the  midst  of  slavery,  he  is  free,  though 
apparently  one  step  lower  than  the  lowest  slave.  The 
habits  of  the  Hungarian  Gypsies  are  abominable ; their 
hovels  are  sinks  of  the  vilest  filth,  their  dress  is  rags, 
and  their  food  the  vilest  carrion  ; — yet  no  people  are 
merrier  : they  sing  and  dance  perpetually,  and  play 
the  violin  with  great  skill.  They  are  addicted  to 
horse-dealing,  and  are  likewise  tinkers  and  smiths  in 
a small  way  ; the  women  tell  fortunes  ; of  course,  both 
sexes  are  thieves  of  the  first  rank.  They  roam  wher- 
ever they  please,  and  in  a country  where  the  actions 
of  all  other  people  are  strictly  watched,  nobody  seems 
to  care  for  these  vagabonds.  They  make  foreign  ex- 
cursions for  plunder,  which  frequently  last  three  or  four 
years ; if  no  mischance  befalls  them,  they  return  very 
rich,  and  squander  their  wealth,  in  mad  festivals. 
When  Napoleon  invaded  Spain,  there  were  many 
Hungarian  Gypsies  in  his  armies,  and  some  strange 
encounters  occurred  on  the  field  of  battle,  between 
these  people  and  the  Spanish  Gitanos.  When  they 
were  quartered  in  the  Spanish  towns,  the  Hungarians 
invariably  sought  out  their  peninsular  brethren,  to 
whom  they  revealed  themselves,  kissing  and  embra- 

K 


166 


THE  GYPSIES. 


cing  most  affectionately.  The  Gitanos  were  astonished 
at  tne  proficiency  of  the  strangers  in  thievish  arts,  and 
looked  upon  them  almost  as  superior  beings.  “ They 
knew  the  whole  reckoning,”  is  still  a common  expres- 
sion among  them.  The  Hungarian  Gypsies  have  a 
peculiar  accent  when  speaking  the  language  of  the 
country,  by  which  they  can  be  instantly  distinguished  ; 
the  same  is  true  of  the  Gitanos  of  Spain,  in  speaking 
Spanish.  In  no  part  of  the  world  is  the  Gypsy  lan- 
guage preserved  better  than  in  Hungary. 

The  Gypsies  appeared  in  England  three  centuries 
ago ; but  shortly  after  their  arrival,  a dreadful  perse- 
cution was  raised  against  them,  the  aim  of  which  was 
their  utter  extermination.  The  gallows  groaned  under 
the  weight  of  their  carcasses,  and  the  miserable  sur- 
vivors were  obliged  literally  to  creep  into  the  earth, 
in  order  to  save  their  lives.  But  these  days  passed 
by ; their  persecutors  became  weary  of  pursuing  them  ; 
they  showed  their  heads  from  the  holes  and  caves  in 
which  they  had  hidden  themselves  ; they  ventured 
forth,  increased  in  numbers,  and  each  tribe  or  family 
taking  a particular  circuit,  they  fairly  divided  the  land 
among  them. 

In  England  the  Gypsy  men  are  all  horse-jockeys, 
and  sometimes  devote  their  leisure  to  tinkering ; the 
women  tell  fortunes.  They  usually  pitch  their  tents 
in  the  neighborhood  of  a yillage  or  small  town,  by  the 
road  side,  under  the  shelter  of  the  hedges  and  trees. 
The  English  Gypsies  are  the  handsomest  of  all  their 
race ; they  speak  English  with  fluency,  and  in  their 
gait  and  demeanor  are  easy  and  graceful.  Their 
native  dialect  is  mixed  with  many  English  words,  yet 


THE  GYPSIES. 


167 


it  may  be  considered  as  tolerably  pure,  from  tbe  fact 
that  it  is  intelligible  to  the  Gipsy  race  in  the  heart  of 
Russia.  The  English  Gypsies  are  constant  attendants 
at  the  race-course,  and  they  are  fond  of  resorting  to 
the  prize-ring. 

In  France  the  Gypsies  are  not  numerous,  having 
been  almost  entirely  extirpated  by  the  rigid  police  of 
that  country.  In  Italy  there  is,  or  was,  a general  law, 
directing  that  no  Gypsies  shall  remain  longer  than  two 
nights  in  any  one  place.  They  are  scattered,  though 
not  in  great  numbers,  over  Germany,  Denmark  and 
Sweden.  In  the  east,  they  are  either  found  wander- 
ing among  the  deserts  and  mountains,  or  settled  in 
towns,  supporting  themselves  by  horse-dealing,  jug- 
glery, music  and  singing.  In  no  part  of  the  east  are 
they  more  numerous  than  in  Turkey,  especially  in 
Constantinople,  where  the  females  frequently  enter  the 
harems  of  the  great,  pretending  to  cure  children  of  the 
“ evil  eye,”  and  to  interpret  the  dreams  of  the  women. 
They  are  not  unfrequently  seen  in  coffee-houses, 
exhibiting  their  figures  in  the  dance.  Many  are  deal- 
ers in  precious  stones,  and  some  of  them  vend  poisons. 
In  no  part  of  the  world  are  they  found  engaged  in  the 
cultivation  of  the  earth,  or  in  the  service  of  a regular 
master;  but  in  all  lands  they  are  thieves,  jockeys  or 
cheats,  and  any  trade  which  they  may  assume,  amounts 
in  substance  to  one  of  these.  • They  may  be  found  in 
the  most  desert  parts  of  Spain,  in  the  heart  of  a wild 
mountain,  hammering  iron,  and  manufacturing  from  it 
instruments  either  for  their  own  use  or  that  of  the 
neighboring  towns  and  villages.  They  may  be  seen 
employed  in  the  same  manner  in  the  plains  of  Russia, 


168 


THE  GYPSIES. 


or  in  the  bosom  of  its  eternal  forests ; and  whoever 
inspects  the  site  where  a horde  of  Gypsies  has  en^ 
camped  in  the  grassy  lanes  beneath  the  hazel  bushes 
of  England,  is  generally  sure  to  find  relics  of  tin  and 
other  metals,  showing  that  they  have  been  there  exer- 
cising the  art  of  the  tinker  or  smith.  Perhaps  nothing 
speaks  more  forcibly  for  the  antiquity  of  this  people 
than  the  tenacity  with  which  they  have  uniformly 
held  on  to  their  peculiar  customs  since  the  period  of 
their  becoming  generally  known. 

Of  the  Spanish  Gypsies  we  have  a more  minute 
and  satisfactory  account  than  of  those  in  any  other 
country.  Their  numbers  at  present  are  estimated  at 
forty  thousand.  It  seems  that  for  many  years  after 
^their  arrival  in  the  peninsula,  their  manners  and  hab- 
its underwent  no  change ; they  were  Avanderers  in  the 
strictest  sense  of  the  word,  and  lived  much  in  the  same 
way  as  their  brethren  exist  at  the  present  day  in  Eng- 
land, Russia,  and  other  countries,  with  the  exception, 
perhaps,  of  being  more  reckless  and  mischievous,  and 
having  less  respect  for  the  laws.  Arriving  in  Spain 
with  a predisposition  to  every  species  of  crime  and 
villany,  they  were  not  likely  to  be  reclaimed  or  im- 
proved by  the  example  of  the  natives,  nor  was  it  pro- 
bable that  they  would  entertain  much  respect  for  laws 
which,  from  time  immemorial,  have  principally  served, 
not  '^to  protect  the  honest  and  useful  members  of  soci- 
ety, but  to  enrich  those  intrusted  with  the  administra- 
tion of  them.  Thus,  if  they  became  thieves,  it  was 
not  probable  that  they  Avould  be  ashamed  of  the  title  of 
thief  in  Spain,  where  the  officers  of  justice  were  ever 
willing  to  shield  an  offender  on  receiving  the  largest 


THE  GYPSIES. 


169 


portion  of  the  booty  obtained.  If  on  their  arrival,  they 
held  the  lives  of  others  in  low  estimation,  could  it  be 
expected  that  they  would  become  gentle  as  lambs  in  a 
country  where  blood  had  its  price,  and  where  the 
shedder  of  blood  was  seldom  punished  unless  he  was 
poor  and  friendless,  and  unable  to  bribe  the  magistrates  ? 
Therefore,  if  the  Spanish  Gypsies  have  been  worse  than 
the  others  of  their  race,  it  must  be  ascribed  to  their 
residence  among  a people  unsound  in  every  part  of 
their  civil  polity,  and  with  whom  right  has  ever  been 
held  in  less  regard,  and  wrong  in  less  disrespect,  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

It  was  not  uncommon  for  a large  band  or  tribe  to 
encarnp  in  the  neighborhood  of  a remote*  village,  scant- 
ily peopled,  and  to  remain  there  till,  like  a swarm  of 
locusts,  they  had  consumed  everything  which  the 
inhabitants  possessed  for  their  support ; or  until  they 
were  scared  away  by  the  officers  of  justice,  or  by  an 
army  of  rustics  assembled  from  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. Then  followed  a hurried  march ; the  women 
and  children,  mounted  on  lean  but  spirited  asses, 
scoured  along  the  plains  fleeter  than  the  wind ; ragged 
and  savage-looking  men,  wielding  the  scourge  and 
goad,  scampered  by  their  side  or  close  behind,  whilst 
a small  party,  on  strong  horses,  armed  with  rusty 
matchlocks  and  sabres,  brought  up  the  rear,  threaten- 
ing the  distant  foe,  and  now  and  then  saluting  them 
with  a hoarse  blast  from  a Gypsy  horn. 

Let  us  for  a moment  suppose  some  unfortunate  tra- 
veller, mounted  on  a handsome  mule  or  a beast  of 
some  value,  meeting,  unarmed  and  alone,  such  a rab- 
ble rout  at  the  close  of  the  day,  in  the  wildest  part,  for 
XIX. — 15 


170 


THE  GYPSIES. 


example,  of  La  Mancha : we  will  suppose  that  he  is 
journeying  from  Seville  to  Madrid,  and  that  he  has, 
left  at  a considerable  distance  behind  him,  the  gloomy 
and  horrible  passes  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  His  bosom, 
which,  for  some  time  past,  has  been  contracted  with 
dreadful  forebodings,  is  beginning  to  expand ; his 
blood,  which  had  been  chilled  in  his  veins,  is  begin- 
ning to  circulate  warmly  and  freely;  he  is  fondly 
anticipating  the  distant  inn  and  savory  omelet.  The 
sun  is  sinking  rapidly  behind  the  wild  mountains  in 
his  rear ; he  has  reached  the  bottom  of  a small  valley 
where  runs  a rivulet,  at  which  he  allows  his  tired 
animal  to  drink ; he  is  about  to  ascend  the  side  of  the 
hill;  his  eyes  are  turned  upwards;  suddenly  he  be- 
holds strange  and  uncouth  forms  at  the  top  of  the 
: ascent ; the  descending  sun  slants  his  rays  upon 
red  cloaks,  with  here  and  there  a turbaned  head,  or 
long  streaming  hair.  The  traveller  hesitates  ; but, 
reflecting  that  he  is  no  longer  in  the  mountains,  and 
that  in  the  open  road  there  is  no  danger  of  banditti, 
he  advances.  In  a moment  he  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
Gypsy  group,  and  there  is  a general  halt ; fiery  eyes 
are  turned  upon  him,  full  of  intense  expression ; he 
hears  a jabbering  in  a language  unintelligible  to  his 
ears.  At  length  an  ugly  looking  urchin  springs  from 
the  crupper  of  a halting  mule,  and  in  a lisping  accent, 
entreats  charity  in  the  name  of  the  Virgin.  The 
traveller,  with  a faltering  hand,  produces  his  purse. 
In  an  instant,  a huge  knotted  club  from  an  unseen 
hand,  strikes  him  headlong  from  his  mule.  Next 
morning,  a naked  corse,  smeared  with  blood  and  brains, 
is  found  upon  the  road,  and  within  a week  a simple 


THE  GYPSIES. 


171 


cross  marks  the  spot,  and  records  the  event,  according 
to  the  custom  of  Spain.  Such  are  the  anecdotes 
related,  by  the  old  Spanish  writers,  of  these  people. 
It  is  singular  that,  although  the  Gypsies  have  always 
rejected  the  Christian  faith,  yet  the  Inquisition,  which 
burnt  so  many  Jews  and  Moors,  and  conscientious 
Christians,  seems  to  have  exhibited  the  greatest  clem- 
ency and  forbearance  toward  these  vagrant  unbe- 
lievers. There  is  not  a single  instance  known  of  their 
interference  with  them.  The  duty  of  restraining  their 
excesses,  was  abandoned  entirely  to  the  secular  author- 
ities, more  particularly  to  the  Holy  Brotherhood,  a 
kind  of  police  instituted  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  the 
roads  of  robbers.  It  has  been  suggested  that  most  of 
the  persecutions  which  have  arisen  in  Spain  against 
Jews,  Moors,  and  Protestants,  sprang  from  avarice — 
religion  being  assumed  as  a mask  to  conceal  the 
basest  motives  which  ever  led  to  the  commission  of 
crying  injustice.  Tihe  Gypsies  were  too  poor  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  Holy  Office. 

The  Spanish  Gypsies  have,  to  a considerable  de- 
gree, renounced  their  wandering  life,  and  their  name 
is  no  longer  a sound  of  terror  to  the  peaceable  travel- 
ler. By  residing  in  towns,  they  have  insensibly  be- 
come more  civilized  than  their  ancestors,  Avho  passed 
the  greater  part  of  their  time  among  the  deserts  and 
mountains.  Their  habits  and  manners  are  less  fero- 
cious, for  all  wandering  tribes  may  be  ranked  among 
the  savage  people  of  the  earth,  whose  very  reason 
is  little  better  than  instinct.  The  culture  of  their 
minds  has  not  been  entirely  neglected,  and  on  the 
whole  their  education  and  acquirements  are  not  infe- 


172 


THE  GYPSIES. 


rior  to  those  of  the  lower  classes  of  the  Spaniards.  It  is 
not  uncommon  to  find  among  the  men,  especially  of  the 
rising  generation,  individuals  able  to  read  and  write. 
Among  the  women,  such  instances  do  not  occur,  hut 
the  great  majority  of  the  Spanish  females  are  en- 
tirely uneducated,  many  even  of  respectable  station 
being  quite  ignorant  of  letters.  During  the  last  five 
or  six  years,*  owing  to  the  civil  wars,  the  ties  which 
unite  society  have  been  considerably  relaxed  in  Spain  ; 
the  law  has  been  trampled  under  foot,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  country  overrun  with  robbers  and  mis- 
creants, who,  under  pretence  of  carrying  on  partisan 
warfare,  have  committed  the  most  frightful  excesses, 
plundering  and  murdering  the  defenceless  inhabitants. 
Such  a state  of  things  would  have  aflforded  the  Gyp- 
sies a favorable  opportunity  to  resume  their  former 
mode  of  life,  and  wander  about  stealing  and  robbing. 
But  it  is  certain  that  they  have  not  sought  to  repeat 
their  ancient  excesses  ; but  ha\e  gone  on,  with  a few 
exceptions,  quietly  pursuing  that  part  of  their  system 
to  which  they  still  cling,  namely,  their  jockey  ism. 
Though  this  is  based  on  fraud  and  robbery,  it  is  far  pre- 
ferable to  wandering  brigandage,  which  necessarily 
leads  to  the  frequent  shedding  of  blood.  The  law, 
indeed,  forbids  them  to  be  jockeys,  or  to  follow  the 
trade  of  trimming  and  shearing  animals,  without  some 
other  visible  means  of  subsistence.  This  provision, 
however,  they  contrive  to  evade.  The  chief  evils  of 
their  system  which  still  remain,  consist  in  the  frauds 
of  the  Gypsy  jockeys,  and  the  tricks  of  the  women. 
It  is  incurring  considerable  risk  to  purchase  a horse  or 
mule  even  from  the  most  respectable  of  the  tribe  with- 


THE  GYPSIES. 


173 


out  a previous  knowledge  of  the  animal  and  his  former 
possessor,  the  chance  being  that  he  is  either  unsound, 
or  stolen  from  a distance.  The  Gypsies  are,  in  gene- 
ral, very  poor,  a pair  of  large  shears  and  various  scis- 
sors of  a smaller  description,  constituting  their  whole 
capital.  Occasionally  some  uncommon  piece  of  good 
luck  befalls  them ; but  the  money  does  not  last  long, 
being  quickly  squandered  in  feasting  and  revelry. 
He  who  owns  a couple  of  donkeys  is  regarded  as  a 
thriving  man.  There  are  some,  however,  who  are 
quite  rich,  and  carry  on  a large  trade  in  horses  and 
mules.  In  their  habits  and  manners  they  are  much 
less  cleanly  than  the  Spaniards.  The  hovels  in  which 
they  reside  exhibit  none  of  the  neatness  which  is  ob- 
servable in  the  habitations  even  of  the  poorest  of  the 
other  race.  The  floors  are  unswept,  and  abound  in 
filth  and  mud,  and  in  their  persons  they  are  scarcely 
less  vile.  Inattention  to  cleanliness  is  a characteristic 
of  the  race  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  Gypsy  dress  is  prohibited  by  the  Spanish  laws, 
as  well  as  the  Gypsy  language  and  manner  of  life ; 
but  these  laws  also  are  evaded.  The  men  generally 
wear  a high-peaked,  narrow-brimmed  hat,  a coat  of 
sheepskin  in  winter,  and  during  summer,  a jacket  of 
brown  cloth : beneath  this  they  are  fond  of  exhibiting 
a red  plush  waistcoat,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of 
the  English  jockeys,  with  numerous  buttons  and 
clasps.  A girdle  of  crimson  silk  surrounds  the  waist, 
and  in  this  is  not  unfrequently  stuck  a pair  of  shears. 
Pantaloons  of  coarse  cloth  or  leather,  descend  to  the 
knees : woollen  stockings  or  spatterdashes  of  leather 
are  worn  below  ; and  stout  shoes  complete  the  equip- 
15* 


174 


THE  GYPSIES. 


merit.  Such  is  also  the  dress  of  the  Spanish  horse- 
jockeys  and  muleteers,  except  that  the  latter  wear 
broad-brimmed  hats  to  shield,  them  from  the  sun. 
This  dress  appears  to  be  of  Andalusian  origin,  and  yet 
it  becomes  the  Gypsy  better  than  the  Spaniard.  He 
wears  it  with  more  negligence  or  jauntiness,  by  which 
he  may  be  recognised  at  some  distance. 

The  Gypsy  women  of  Spain  do  not  wear  the  large 
red  cloaks  and  immense  bonnets  of  coarse  beaver, 
which  distinguish  their  sisters  of  England.  They 
have  no  other  head-gear  than  a handkerchief,  which 
is  occasionally  used  as  a defence  against  the  weather : 
their  hair  is  sometimes  confined  by  a comb,  but  more 
frequently  is  permitted  to  stray  dishevelled  down  their 
shoulders : they  are  fond  of  large  earrings  of  gold, 
silver  and  other  metals.  There  is  little  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  Spanish  women,  save  the  absence  of 
the  mantilla,  which  they  never  wear.  Ladies  of 
fashion  not  unfrequently  take  pleasure  in  dressing  d la 
Gitana,  as  it  is  called  : but  this  female  Gypsy  fashion, 
like  that  of  the  men,  more  properly  belongs  to 
Andalusia,  the  principal  characteristic  of  which  is  the 
saya,  or  skirt,  which  is  exceedingly  short,  with  many 
rows  of  flounces.  But  the  original  dress  of  the  Gypsies, 
whatever  it  was,  may  have  had  some  share  in  forming 
the  Andalusian  fashion,  owing  to  the  great  number  of 
these  wanderers  who  found  their  way  to  that  province 
at  an  early  period.  The  Andalusians  are  a mixed 
breed  of  various  nations,  Eomans,  Goths,  Moors,  and 
perhaps  a slight  sprinkling  of  Gypsy  blood  in  their 
veins,  and  of  Gypsy  fashion  in  their  garb. 

Whilst  their  husbands  are  engaged  in  their  jockey 


THE  GYPSIES. 


175 


vocation,  the  Gypsy  females  are  seldom  idle.  The 
richest  among  them  are  generally  smugglers,  and  in 
the  large  towns  go  from  house  to  house  with  contra- 
band goods,  especially  silk  and  cotton,  and  occasionally 
with  tobacco.  They  likewise  trade  in  old  clothes. 
Gypsies  of  this  description  rank  as  the  most  respecta- 
ble class  : the  others,  provided  they  do  not  sell  roasted 
chestnuts,  or  grass  mats,  seek  a livelihood  by  tricks 
more  or  less  fraudulent ; such  as  fortune-telling,  &:c. 
This  way  of  extracting  money  from  the  credulity  of 
dupes  is,  of  all  those  practised  by  the  Gypsies,  the 
easiest : promises  are  the  only  capital  requisite,  and 
the  whole  art  of  fortune-telling  consists  in  properly 
adapting  these  promises  to  the  age  and  condition  of 
the  parties  who  seek  for  information.  The  Gypsies 
are  clever  enough  in  the  accomplishment  of  this,  and 
in  most  cases  afford  perfect  satisfaction.  Their  prac- 
tice lies  chiefly  among  females  : to  the  young  maidens 
they  promise  lovers,  handsome  invariably,  and  some- 
times rich  ; to  wives,  children,  and  perhaps  another 
husband ; for  their  eyes  are  so  penetrating  that  they 
will  occasionally  find  out  your  most  secret  thoughts 
and  wishes.  To  the  old  they  promise  riches  and 
nothing  but  riches,  for  they  have  sufficient  knowledge 
of  the  human  heart  to  be  aware  that  avarice  is  the  last 
passion  that  becomes  extinct  in  the  human  breast. 
These  riches  are  to  proceed  either  from  the  discovery 
of  hidden  treasures,  or  from  America,  a land  to  which 
the  Spaniards  still  look  with  hope,  as  there  is  no  indi- 
vidual in  Spain,  however  poor,  but  has  some  relative 
or  friend  in  that  region  of  silver  and  gold,  at  whose 
death  he  considers  it  probable  that  he  may  succeed  to 
a brilliant  fortune. 


176 


THE  GYPSIES. 


The  Gypsy  fortune-tellers  find  dupes  almost  as 
readily  among  the  superior  classes  as  among  the  very 
dregs  of  the  population.  It  is  their  boast  that  the  best 
houses  in  Spain  are  open  to  them  ; and  perhaps  in  the 
space  of  one  hour  they  will  predict  the  future  to  a 
duchess  in  one  of  the  hundred  palaces  of  Madrid,  and 
to  half  a dozen  laundresses  who  are  washing  linen  in 
the  stream  of  the  Manzanares.  One  great  advantage 
which  the  Gypsies  possess  over  all  other  people  is  an 
utter  absence  of  what  the  French  call  mauvaise  honte ; 
their  speech  is  as  fiuent,  and  their  eyes  are  as  una- 
bashed in  the  presence  of  royalty  as  among  the  lowest 
of  the  populace,  and  the  consequence  is  that  most 
minds  quail  before  them,  and  they  sport  with  what 
would  be  fatal  to  others. 

Among  their  other  frauds,  the  Hokkano  Baro,  or 
great  trick,”  stands  preeminent.  When  the  Gypsy 
has  met  with  some  credulous  female  whom  she  sus- 
pects to  be  rich,  she  will  tell  her  that  she  knows  a 
method  by  which  she  can  make  her  fortune  : it  is 
neither  more  nor  less  than,  at  a certain  hour  and  place, 
to  deposit  a sum  of  money,  the  more  the  better ; as 
the  Gypsy  assures  her  that  if  not  looked  at  until  a cer- 
tain time,  it  will  increase  a thousand  fold.  Some  per- 
sons might  find  it  difficult  to  believe  that  in  the  nine- 
teenth century  any  people  can  be  found  sufficiently 
credulous  to  be  duped  by  so  clumsy  a trick.  But 
experience  proves  that  such  persons  are  by  no  means 
rare,  either  in  Spain,  France,  or  enlightened  England. 
The  most  subtle  method  of  practising  the  Hokkano 
Baro  is  the  following.  When  the  dupe  consents  to 
make  the  experiment,  the  Gypsy  demands  of  her  whe- 


THE  GYPSIES. 


177 


ther  she  has  in  the  house  some  strong  chest  with  a 
safe  lock  and  key.  On  receiving  an  affirmative 
answer,  she  will  request  to  see  all  the  gold  and  silver 
of  every  description  which  she  may  have  in  her  pos- 
session. The  money  is  shown  to  her,  and  v/hen  she 
has  carefully  inspected  and  counted  it,  she  produces  a 
white  handkerchief,  saying,  “ Lady,  I give  you  this 
handkerchief,  which  is  blessed.  It  is  now  necessary 
that  you  place  in  it  your  gold  and  silver,  tying  it  with 
three  knots.  I will  then  depart  for  three  days,  when 
I will  return.  In  the  mean  time  you  must  keep  the 
bundle  which  contains  your  treasure  beneath  your  pil- 
low, permitting  no  one  to  go  near  it,  and  observing 
the  greatest  secrecy,  otherwise  the  money  will  take 
wing  and  fly  away.  Every  morning  during  the  three 
days  it  will  be  well  to  open  the  bundle  for  your  own 
satisfaction,  to  see  that  no  misfortune  has  befallen  your 
treasure  ; be  always  careful,  however,  to  fasten  it  with 
three  knots.  On  my  return  we  will  place  the  bundle, 
after  having  inspected  it,  in  the  chest,  which  you  your- 
self shall  lock,  retaining  the  key  in  your  possession. 
But  thenceforward  for  three  weeks,  you  must  by  no 
means  unlock  the  chest,  nor  touch  the  treasure,  but 
pray  night  and  morning  to  St.  Antonio  that  it  be  mul- 
tiplied, otherwise  it  will  fly  away.” 

The  Gypsy  departs,  and  during  the  three  days 
prepares  a bundle  as  similar  as  possible  to  the  one 
which  contains  the  money  of  her  dupe,  save  that  instead 
of  doubloons,  dollars  and  plate,  its  contents  consist  of 
copper  money  and  pewter.  With  this  bundle  conceal- 
ed beneath  her  cloak,  she  returns  at  the  end  of  three 
days.  The  bundle  of  real  treasure  is  produced  and 


178 


THE  GYPSIES. 


inspected,  and  again  tied  up  by  the  Gypsy,  who  then 
requests  the  other  to  open  the  chest ; which  done,  she 
formally  places  a bundle  in  it ; but  in  the  mean  time 
she  has  dexterously  substituted  her  own  for  the  true 
one.  The  chest  is  then  locked,  the  lady  retaining  the 
key.  The  Gypsy  promises  to  return  at  the  end  of 
three  weeks  to  open  the  chest,  assuring  her  dupe  that 
if  it  be  kept  locked  till  that  period  it  will  be  found 
filled  with  gold  and  silver,  but  that  if  it  be  opened,  the 
money  deposited  will  vanish.  She  then  walks  off 
with  great  deliberation,  bearing  away  the  spoil.  It  is 
needless  to  say  that  she  never  returns. 

The  Gypsies  have  some  very  singular  customs  con- 
nected with  the  marriage  festival,  the  most  remarkable 
of  which  we  must  pass  over  without  further  notice. 
One  of  these  festivals  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  Bor- 
row : — “ After  much  feasting,  drinking  and  yelling  in 
the  Gypsy  house,  the  bridal  train  sallied  forth, — a fran- 
tic spectacle.  First  of  all  marched  a villanous  look- 
ing fellow,  holding  in  his  hands  uplifted  a long  pole, 
at  the  top  of  which  fluttered  in  the  morning  air — 
what  ? — ^ ^ Then  came  the  betrothed  pair,  fol- 
lowed by  their  nearest  friends  ; then  a rabble  rout  of 
Gypsies  screaming  and  shouting  and  discharging  guns 
and  pistols,  till  all  around  rang  with  the  din,  and  the 
village  dogs  barked.  On  arriving  at  the  church  gate, 
the  fellow  who  bore  the  pole,  stuck  it  into  the  ground 
with  a loud  huzza,  and  the  train  forming  two  ranks, 
defiled  into  the  church  on  either  side  of  the  pole  and 
its  strange  ornaments.  On  the  conclusion  of  the  cere- 
mony they  returned  in  the  same  manner  in  which  they 
had  come.  Throughout  the  day  there  was  nothing 


THE  GYPSIES. 


179 


going  on  but  singing,  drinking,  feasting  and  dancing ; 
but  the  most  singular  part  of  the  festival  was  reserved 
for  the  dark  night.  Nearly  a ton  weight  of  sweet- 
meats had  been  prepared  at  an  enormous  expense,  not 
for  the  gratification  of  the  palate,  but  for  a purpose  purely 
Gypsy.  These  sweetmeats  of  all  kinds,  and  of  all 
forms,  but  principally  yemas^  or  yolks  of  eggs,  prepared 
with  a crust  of  sugar, — a delicious  bonne  houche^ — were 
strewn  on  the  floor  of  a large  room,  at  least  to  the 
depth  of  three  inches.  Into  this  room,  at  a given  sig- 
nal, tripped  the  bride  and  bridegroom,  dancing  romalis, 
followed  amain  by  all  the  Gypsies  dancing.  To  convey 
a slight  idea  of  the  scene  is  almost  beyond  the  power 
of  words.  In  a few  minutes  the  sweetmeats  were  re- 
duced to  a powder,  or  rather  to  a mud,  and  the  dancers 
were  soiled  to  the  knees  with  sugar,  fruits  and  yolks 
of  eggs.  Still  more  terrific  became  the  lunatic  merri- 
ment. The  men  sprang  high  into  the  air,  neighed, 
brayed  and  crowed ; whilst  the  Gypsies  snapped  their 
fingers,  in  their  own  fashion,  louder  than  castanets,  , 
distorting  their  forms,  &c.  The  festival  endures 
three  days,  at  the  end  of  which  the  greater  part  of  the 
property  of  the  bridegroom,  even  if  he  were  previously 
in  easy  circumstances,  has  been  wasted  in  this  strange 
kind  of  riot  and  dissipation.  Paco,  the  Gypsy  of  Bad- 
ajos,  attributed  his  ruin  to  the  extravagance  of  his 
marriage  festival ; and  many  other  Gypsies  have  con- 
fessed the  same  thing  of  themselves.  They  said  that 
throughout  the  three  days,  they  appeared  to  be  under 
the  influence  of  infatuation,  having  no  other  wish  or 
thought  but  to  make  away  with  their  substance. 
Some  have  gone  so  far  as  to  cast  money  by  handfuls 
into  the  street.’’ 


180 


THE  GYPSIES. 


The  Gypsies  are  almost  entirely  ignorant  of  the 
grand  points  of  morality ; they  seem  not  to  under- 
stand that  to  lie,  to  steal,  and  to  murder,  are  crimes 
which  are  sure  eventually  to  yield  bitter  fruits  to  those 
who  perpetrate  them.  But  on  one  point,  and  that  one 
of  no  little  importance  as  far  as  temporal  happiness  is 
concerned,  they  are  capable  of  distinguishing  good 
from  evil.  They  know  that  chastity  is  a jewel  of  high 
price,  and  that  conjugal  fidelity  may  occasionally  fling 
a ray  of  sunshine  over  the  dreary  hours  of  a life 
passed  in  the  contempt  of  almost  all  laws,  human  and 
divine. 

Whatever  might  have  been  the  religious  belief  of 
the  Gypsies  in  Hindostan,  it  is  certain  that  they  arriv- 
ed at  the  confines  of  Europe  without  any  precise  or 
rooted  faith.  Though  cloudy  ideas  of  the  Indian  dei- 
ties might  be  occasionally  floating  in  their  minds, 
these,  doubtless,  quickly  passed  away  when  they  ceas- 
ed to  behold  the  pagodas  and  temples  of  Indian  wor- 
ship, and  were  no  longer  in  contact  with  the  enthu- 
siastic adorers  of  the  idols  of  the  east.  At  present 
they  are  utterly  destitute  of  religion,  believing  neither 
in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  nor,  according  to  their 
own  declarations,  in  a Supreme  Being. 

The  poetry  of  the  Spanish  Gypsies  is,  in  almost 
every  respect,  such  as  might  be  expected  to  originate 
among  people  of  their  class  ; a set  of  Ishmaelites,  sub- 
sisting by  cheating  and  villany  of  every  description ; 
hating  the  rest  of  the  human  species,  and  bound  to 
each  other  by  the  bonds  of  common  origin,  language 
and  pursuits.  The  themes  of  this  poetry  are  the 
various  incidents  of  Gypsy  life — cattle-stealing,  prison 


THE  GYPSIES. 


181 


adventures,  assassination,  revenge,  &c.  Amongst 
these  effusions  are  sometimes  found  tender  and  beau- 
tiful thoughts,  for  even  Thugs  and  Gypsies  have  their 
moments  of  gentleness  ; but  they  are  few  and  far  be- 
tvveen,  as  a flower  or  a shrub  is  seen  here  and  there 
springing  up  among  the  rugged  and  frightful  crags 
of  the  Spanish  sierras.  Their  poetry  exists  in  mere 
scraps,  commonly  not  extending  beyond  four  lines. 
We  subjoin  a few  specimens. 

0 when  I sit  my  courser  bold, 

My  bantling  in  my  rear. 

And  in  my  hand  my  musket  hold, 

0 how  they  quake  with  fear. 

There  runs  a swine  down  yonder  hill, 

As  fast  as  e’er  he  can, 

And  as  he  runs  he  crieth  still, 

Come,  steal  me,  Gypsy  man ! 

1 sallied  forth  upoh  my  gray, 

With  him  my  hated  foe. 

And  when  we  reach’d  the  narrow  way, 

1 dealt  a dagger  blow. 

I walk’d  the  street,  and  there  I spied 
A goodly  gallows  tree  • 

And  in  my  ear  methought  it  cried, 

Gypsy,  beware  of  me  ! ” 

I slouch  my  beaver  o’er  my  brow. 

As  down  the  street  I rove. 

For  fear  thy  mother  keen  should  know 
That  I her  daughter  love. 

Extend  to  me  thy  hand  so  small, 

Wherein  I see  thee  weep, 

L XIX. — 16 


/ 


182 


THE  GYPSIES. 


For  0 thy  balmy  tear-drops  all 
I would  collect  and  keep. 

Tho  girl  I love  more  dear  than  life, 

Should  other  gallant  woo, 

I ^d  straight  unsheath  my  dudgeon  knife 
And  cut  his  weasand  through, 

Or  he,  the  conqueror  in  the  strife, 

The  same  to  me  should  do. 

A G5rpsy  stripling’s  sparkling  eye 
Has  pierced  my  bosom’s  core, 

A feat  no  eye  beneath  the  sky 
Could  e’er  effect  before. 

Loud  sang  the  Spanish  cavalier, 

And  thus  his  ditty  ran — 

God  send  the  Gypsy  lassie  here. 

And  not  the  Gypsy  man. 

We  shall  close  this  chapter  with  an  account  of  a su- 
perstition of  a singular  nature,  current  not  only  among 
the  Gypsies,  but  among  the  people  of  almost  every 
country  in  Europe,  and  in  many  parts  of  Asia  and 
Africa ; — namely,  the  evil  eye. 

The  Gypsies  pretend  to  the  power  of  casting  the 
evil  eye,  that  is,  of  making  people  sick  by  throwing  a 
glance  at  them,  especially  children,  who,  from  the 
tenderness  of  their  age,  are  supposed  to  be  more  easily 
blighted  than  grown  people.  After  receiving  the  evil 
glance,  according  to  the  common  belief,  they  fall  sick, 
and  die  in  a few  hours.  This  superstition  is  very 
prevalent  in  Spain,  particularly  in  Andalusia,  among 
the  lower  orders.  A stag’s  horn  is  considered  a 
safeguard,  and  on  that  account,  a small  horn,  tipped 
with  silver,  is  frequently  attached  to  children’s  necks 
by  means  of  a cord  braided  from  the  hair  of  a black 


THE  GYPSIES. 


183 


mare’s  tail.  Should  the  evil  glance  be  cast,  it  is 
imagined  that  the  horn  receives  it  and  instantly  snaps 
asunder.  The  Gypsies  sell  remedies  for  the  evil  eye, 
but  they  can  give  no  account  of  the  manner  in  which 
they  perform  this  fatal  spell. 

This  superstition  is  prevalent  among  all  oriental 
people,  whether  Turks,  Arabs  or  Hindoos ; but  per- 
haps there  is  no  nation  in  the  world  among  whom  the 
belief  is  so  firmly  rooted,  and  from  so  ancient  a period, 
as  the  Jews ; it  being  a subject  treated  of  in  the 
gravest  manner  by  the  old  rabbinical  writers.  This 
has  led  to  the  conclusion  that  this  illusion  is  as  old 
almost  as  the  Hebrew  race.  The  evil  eye  is  men- 
tioned in  Scripture,  but,  of  course,  not  in  the  false  and 
superstitious  sense.  The  Rabbins  have  said,  “For 
one  person  who  dies  of  sickness,  there  are  ten  who  die 
by  the  evil  eye ; ” and  as  the  Jews,  especially  those  of 
the  east  and  of  Barbary,  place  implicit  confidence  in 
all  that  the  Rabbins  have  written,  we  can  scarcely 
wonder,  if  at  the  present  day,  they  dread  this  visitation 
worse  than  the  plague.  “ The  leech,”  they  say,  “ can 
cure  other  disorders,  but  who  can  cure  the  evil  eye  ? ” 
It  is  imagined  that  this  blight  is  most  easily  inflicted 
when  a person  is  enjoying  himself,  with  little  or  no 
care  for  the  future ; when  he  is  reclining  in  the  sun 
before  the  door,  or  when  he  is  in  full  health  and 
spirits,  but  principally  when  he  is  eating  and  drinking ; 
on  which  account  the  Jews  and  Moors  are  jealous  of 
the  appearance  of  strangers  when  they  are  taking 
their  meals.  The  evil  eye  may  be  cast  by  an  ugly  or 
ill-favored  person,  either  designedly  or  not,  and  the 
same  effect  may  be  produced  by  an  inadvertent  word. 
It  is  deemed  unlucky  to  say  to  a person  diverting 


184 


THE  GYPSIES. 


himself,  ‘‘  How  merry  you  are ! ” or  to  one  while 
eating,  “ How  fat  you  are  ! ” — for  it  may  cause  him 
to  receive  a sudden  blight  and  immediately  perish.  It 
is  never  safe  among  Jews  or  Mahometans,  nor  indeed 
among  any  eastern  people,  to  stop  and  gaze  on  a 
child,  or  to  caress  it,  for  it  will  be  thought  you 
are  about  to  give  it  the  evil  eye.  To  prevent  this,  the 
modern  Egyptians,  even  of  the  wealthiest  class,  keep 
their  children  shabbily  clad,  while  abroad,  that  their 
beauty  may  not  attract  notice.  The  cures  for  the  evil 
eye  are  numerous,  and  consist  of  amulets,  charms,  and 
all  sorts  of  quack  medicines. 

After  all,  the  evil  eye,  like  most  other  superstitions, 
is,  perhaps,  founded  on  a physical  reality.  It  is  in 
hot  countries,  where  the  sun  and  moon  are  particularly 
dazzling,  that  the  belief  in  the  evil  eye  is  most  preva- 
lent. If  we  turn  to  Scripture,  we  shall  perhaps  find 
allusion  to  the  origin  of  it.  In  Psalms,  cxxi.  v.  6,  we 
read — ‘‘  The  sun  shall  not  smite  thee  by  day^  nor  the 
moon  by  night'"'  It  is  said  that  both  these  luminaries 
have  their  dangers  in  tropical  climates.  A sun-stroke 
produces  brain-fevers,  and  the  glance  of  the  full  moon 
is  reputed  to  cause  itching  in  the  eye,  and  not  un^ 
frequently  blindness.  The  northern  nations  have  a 
superstition  which  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  evil 
eye.  They  have,  indeed,  not  the  same  brilliant  sun 
and  moon  to  addle  the  brain ; but  the  gray  north  has 
its  marshes  and  fenny  grounds  and  fetid  mists,  which 
produce  agues,  low  fevers,  and  moping  madness,  and 
are  as  fatal  to  cattle  as  to  man.  Such  disorders  are 
attributed  to  elves  and  fairies.  This  superstition  still 
lingers  in  some  parts  of  England  under  the  name  of 
elf‘Shot,  and  in  other  countries  it  is  called  fairy-wild. 


SWITZERLAND. 


The  Swiss  enjoy  the  reputation  of  being  a plain, 
honest,  brave  and  simple  people,  among  whom  linger 
the  last  remnants  of  antique  and  primitive  manners. 
Their  fond  attachment  to  their  native  country  is  con- 
spicuous, even  under  the  necessity  that  compels  them 
to  quit  it.  Many  Swiss  emigrate,  but  they  generally 
return,  when  they  have  acquired  a competency,  to  their 
wild  and  rugged  mountains.  It  is  observed,  that  no 
sooner  is  the  'Ranz  des  Vaches^  a simple  mountain  air, 
played  in  their  hearing,  than  even  the  hardy  soldiers, 
remote  from  tlieir  homes,  melt  into  tears.  An  ardent 
16* 


186 


SWITZERLAND. 


love  of  liberty,  ever  since  the  grand  epoch  of  their 
liberation,  has  distinguished  the  Swiss  people,  who 
have  often  defended  their  country  against  fearful  odds. 

In  matters  of  dress,  the  higher  classes  generally  fol- 
low the  French  fashions ; but  the  common  people  have 
many  peculiar  forms,  which  are  mostly  simple  and 
convenient.  The  national  costume  is  confined  to  the 
females ; it  consists  partly  of  a short  petticoat,  which 
shows  the  stockings  as  high  as  the  knee,  and  a wide, 
flat  hat,  tied  under  the  chin.  Near  Bern,  the  hat  gives 
place  to  a strange-looking  black  cap,  standing  off  the 
face,  and  in  shape  resembling  the  two  wings  of  a but- 
terfly. In  some  parts,  the  hair  is  plaited  behind,  often 
reaching  down  to  the  heels.  In  Appenzell,  it  is  said 
that  the  modern  invention  of  suspenders  is  not  yet 
adopted  by  the  men  ; the  dress  is  a scanty  jacket  and 
short  breeches,  and  there  is  a preposterous  interval  be- 
tween the  two  garments,  which  the  wearer  makes  fre- 
quent but  ineffectual  hitches  to  close. 

A Swiss  dwelling  on  the  High  Alps  is  thus  describ- 
ed by  a traveller.  “ The  chalet  was,  like  an  American 
log-honse,  of  the  rudest  construction ; the  roof,  com- 
posed of  clumsy  shingles,  gave  vent  to  the  smoke  in 
the  absence  of  a chimney ; this  roof,  projecting  eight  or 
ten  feet,  formed  a sort  of  piazza,  called  the  melkgang, 
a German  word,  which,  like  many  others  in  that  lan- 
guage, needs  no  English  translation.  The  bed-room 
of  the  shepherds  in  these  summer  chalets,  is  a wooden 
gallery  hung  up  over  the  melkgang^  close  to  the  pro- 
jecting roof ; they  go  up  to  it  by  a ladder,  and  all  herd 
together  on  a little  straw  never  changed.  The  cows 
come  home  to  be  milked,  attracted  from  the  most  dis- 


SWITZERLAND. 


187 


tant  pastures  by  a handful  of  salt,  which  the  shepherd 
draws  out  of  the  leathern  pouch  hanging  across  his 
shoulder.  The  ground  round  the  chalet  is  so  broken 
and  filthy  by  the  treading  of  cattle,  that  without  step- 
ping-stones it  would  be  difficult  to  reach  the  door. 
To  finish  the  picture,  a herd  of  swine  ranges  about, 
waiting  for  their  allotted  portion  of  buttermilk  and 
curds.  All  this  is,  no  doubt,  very  difierent  from  Rous- 
seau’s charming  description ; but  the  chalets  about 
Heloise’s  residence  were  family  dwellings,  inhabited 
the  whole  year  round,  and  such  as  are  found  on 
lower  mountains  only  ; these  are  kept  perfectly  clean 
and  comfortable,  and  are  in  all  respects  difierent  from 
those  on  the  High  Alps,  constructed  for  mere  tem- 
porary shelter  during  a few  months.  No  women  dwell 
in  the  latter.” 

Chamois-hunting  is  not  only  one  of  the  sports,  but 
one  of  the  favorite  occupations  of  the  Swiss,  though  it 
is  less  practised  than  formerly.  When  the  French 
held  possession  of  the  country,  all  restrictions  on  hunt- 
ing were  removed,  in  consequence  of  which  the 
number  of  the  chamois  was  greatly  reduced.  The  hunt- 
ing of  these  animals  is  both  laborious  and  hazardous, 
yet  the  attachment  of  the  Swiss  to  this  national  sport 
is  unconquerable.  The  hunter  must  have  an  excel- 
lent constitution,  particularly  such  as  to  enable  him  to 
bear  the  extreme  of  cold  after  being  heated  by  exer- 
cise, to  sleep  on  the  damp  ground,  to  endure  hunger 
and  thirst,  and  every  other  hardship  and  privation. 
He  must  have  great  muscular  strength,  to  climb  the 
mountains  all  day  with  a heavy  gun  across  his  shoul- 
der, with  ammunition  and  provisions,  and,  at  last,  the 


188 


SWITZERLAND. 


game  he  kills.  He  must  also  have  a keen  sight,  a 
steady  foot  and  head,  and,  finally,  patience  equal  to 
his  courage. 

The  chamois  are  very  timid  and  shy,  and  certainly 
not  without  cause ; their  sense  of  smell  and  sight 
being  most  acute,  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  approach 
them  within  gun-shot.  They  are  sometimes  hunted 
with  dogs,  but  oftener  without,  as  these  drive  them  to 
places  where  it  is  difficult  to  follow  them.  The  hunt- 
ers, two  or  three  in  company,  carry  a sharp  hoe  to  cut 
steps  in  the  ice,  a rifle  to  each  man,  hooks  to  fasten  to 
their  shoes,  a mountain-stick  shod  with  iron,  a short 
spy-glass,  barley-cakes,  cheese  and  brandy.  Sleeping 
the  first  night  at  some  of  those  upper  chalets^  o/Alpine 
huts,  which  are  left  open  at  all  times,  and  are  always 
provided  with  a little  dry  wood  for  kindling  a fire, 
they  reach  their  hunting-grounds  at  day-light.  Here, 
on  some  commanding  situation,  they  generally  find  a 
place  ready  prepared,  of  two  stones  standing  up- 
right, with  sufficient  space  between  to  see  through, 
without  being  seen.  To  this  spot  one  of  the  hunters 
creeps  unperceived,  without  his  gun,  and  carefully 
looking  every  way  with  his  glass,  directs  his  com- 
panions by  signs. 

The  utmost  circumspection  and  patience  are  requi- 
site on  the  part  of  a hunter  when  approaching  his 
game.  A windward  situation  would  infallibly  betray 
him  by  the  scent ; he  creeps  on  from  one  hiding  rock 
to  another,  with  his  shirt  over  his  clothes,  and  lies 
motionless  in  the  snow,  often  for  half  an  hour,  when 
the  herd  appears  alarmed  and  ready  to  take  flight. 
When  he  is  near  enough  to  distinguish  the  bending 


SWITZERLAND. 


189 


the  horns,  that  is,  at  the  distance  of  200  or  250 
paces,  he  takes  aim ; but  if,  at  the  moment  of  raising 
his  piece,  the  chamois  should  look  towards  him,  he 
must  remain  perfectly  still ; the  least  motion  would 
put  them  to  flight  before  he  could  fire,  and  he  is  too 
far  distant  to  risk  a shot  without  resting  his  piece.  In 
taking  aim  he  endeavors  to  pick  out  the  darkest  coat, 
which  always  indicates  the  fattest  animal.  Accus- 
tomed as  the  chamois  are  to  frequent  and  loud  detona- 
tions among  the  glaciers,  they  do  not  mind  the  report 
of  arms  so  much  as  the  smell  of  gunpowder,  or  the 
sight  of  a man.  There  are  instances  of  the  hunter 
having  time  to  load  again  and  fire  a second  time,  after 
missing  the  first,  if  not  seen.  No  one  but  a sportsman 
can  understand  the  joy  of  the  hunter,  who,  after  so 
much  toil,  sees  his  prey  fall.  With  shouts  of  savage 
triumph,  he  springs  forward  to  seize  it,  up  to  his 
knees  in  snow ; despatches  the  victim  if  he  finds  he  is 
not  quite  dead,  and  often  swallows  a draught  of  warm 
blood,  which  is  deemed  a specific  against  giddiness. 
He  then  takes  out  the  entrails  to  lessen  the  weight  of 
his  prize,  ties  the  feet  together  in  such  a manner  as  to 
pass  his  arms  through  on  each  side,  and  then  proceeds 
down  the  mountain — much  lighter  for  the  additional 
load  which  he  carries. 

Not  unfrequently  the  best  marksman  is  selected  to 
lie  in  wait  for  the  game,  while  his  associates,  leaving 
their  rifles  loaded  by  hm,  and  acting  the  part  of 
hounds,  drive  it  toward  the  spot.  Sometimes,  when 
the  passage  is  too  narrow,  a chamois,  reduced  to  the 
last  extremity,  will  rush  headlong  on  his  foe,  whose 
only  resource  is  to  avoid  the  encounter,  which,  on  the 


190 


SWITZERLAND. 


brink  of  precipices,  would  be  fatal.  He  must,  there- 
fore, lie  down  immediately,  and  let  the  frightened  ani- 
mal pass  over  him.  An  instance  is  related  of  a herd 
of  fourteen  chamois,  who,  being  hard  pressed,  rushed 
down  a fatal  precipice,  rather  than  be  taken.  It  is 
wonderful  to  see  them  climb  abrupt  and  naked  rocks, 
and  leap  from  one  narrow  cliff  to  another  ; the  small- 
est projection  serving  them  for  a point  of  rest,  upon 
which  they  alight  but  to  take  another  spring.  The 
agility  of  these  animals  led  to  the  popular  belief  that 
they  could  support  themselves  by  means  of  their 
crooked  horns. 

The  leader  of  the  herd  is  always  an  old  female, 
never  a male.  She  stands  watching  when  the  others 
lie  down,  and  rests  while  they  are  up  and  feeding. 
She  listens  to  every  sound,  and  looks  round  anxiously. 
She  often  ascends  a fragment  of  rock  or  heap  of  drift- 
ed snow,  for  a wide  field  of  observation,  making  a sort 
of  gentle  hissing  noise  when  she  suspects  any  danger. 
When  the  sound  rises  to.  a sharper  note,  the  whole 
troop  flies  at  once,  like  the  wind,  to  some  more  remote 
and  lofty  part  of  the  mountain.  The  death  of  this  old 
leader  is  commonly  fatal  to  the  herd.  Their  fondness 
for  salt  makes  them  frequent  salt  springs  and  salt 
marshes,  where  hunters  lie  in  wait  for  them.  These 
men  practise  a very  singular  stratagem : having  ob- 
served that  the  chamois  v/ill  approach  cattle  in  the 
pastures  and  graze  near  them,  a hunter  will  crawl  on 
all-fours  with  salt  spread  on  his  back  to  attract  the  cat- 
tle ; he  is  immediately  surrounded  and  hidden  by 
them  so  completely  that  he  finds  no  difficulty  in  ad- 
vancing very  near  the  chamois  and  taking  a sure  aim. 


SWITZERLAND. 


191 


At  other  times,  a hunter  when  discovered  will  drive 
his  stick  into  the  snow  and  place  his  hat  on  the  top  oi 
it,  then  creeping  off,  go  round  another  way,  while  the 
game  remains  intent  on  the  strange  object  he  has  left 
behind. 

The  manners  of  the  Swiss  are  a mixture  of  French 
and  German.  No  city  is  blessed  with  soirees  to  a 
greater  extent  than  Geneva.  They  go  on  multiplying 
from  November  till  the  approach  of  spring,  when  the 
superior  attractions  of  the  country  put  an  end  to  them. 
Neither  carriages  nor  sedan  chairs  are  used,  and  the 
beau  monde  repair  on  foot  to  their  parties.  Soon  after 
eight  in  the  evening,  the  ladies  sally  forth  wrapped  up 
in  cloaks  and  hoods,  and  walk  on  tiptoe  through  the 
streets,  preceded  by  their  maid,  who  carries  a lantern. 
When  they  reach  their  destination,  the  cloak  and 
double  shoes  are  thrown  off  in  an  ante-room  appro- 
priated to  the  purpose ; their  dress  is  arranged  by  the 
attendant,  and  then  they  glide  in  lightly,  to  appear- 
ance quite  unconscious  of  looks,  make  their  curtsy, 
take  their  seat,  and  try  to  be  agreeable  with  their  next 
neighbors.  After  music  and  gossip,  tea  is  brought 
in,  with  cakes  and  confections.  A few  card  parties  are 
arranged,  and  when  the  clock  strikes  eleven  or  twelve, 
the  maid  and  lantern  are  announced  in  a whisper  to 
each  of  the  fair  visiters. 

Saturday  night  visits,  among  young  people,  consti- 
tute a peculiarity  of  Swiss  manners.  Of  course,  this 
is  a favorite  time  for  courtship.  The  young  Swiss 
comes  under  the  window  of  the  fair  lady  to  whom  he 
intends  paying  his  addresses,  or  with  whom  he  wishes 
to  become  acquainted.  As  it  is  visiting  night,  and  she 


192 


SWITZERLAND. 


expects  company,  she  is  at  the  window,  neatly  dressed, 
and  admits  or  rejects  the  petition,  which  is  always 
drawn  up  in  a regular  form,  generally  in  verse,  and 
learned  by  heart.  Permission  being  granted,  the 
young  man  climbs  up  to  the  window,  which  is  com- 
monly in  the  third  story,  and  as  the  houses  are  con- 
structed with  conveniences  for  this  purpose,  he  runs 
little  risk  of  breaking  his  neck.  He  sits  on  the  win- 
dow, and  is  regaled  with  gingerbread  and  cherry 
bounce.  According  as  his  views  are  more  or  less 
serious,  and  he  proves  more  or  less  acceptable,  he  is 
allowed  to  enter  the  room,  or  suffered  to  remain  out- 
side. Frequently,  the  conversation  is  protracted  till 
the  dawn  gives  the  signal  for  departure  : yet  to  depart 
is  not  always  safe,  for  it  not  unfrequently  happens  that 
a less  favored  lover  waylays  his  rival,  violent  battles 
ensue,  and  murder  is  sometimes  committed : for  this 
reason  young  men  are  in  the  habit  of  escorting  one 
another  on  such  occasions. 


THE  TYROL. 

The  Tyrolese,  though  under  the  government  of 
Austria,  may  be  properly  noticed  after  their  neighbors 
the  Swiss.  Like  them  they  inhabit  an  Alpine  coun- 
try— blending  something  of  Italy  and  Germany  in  their 
customs.  The  language  and  general  aspect  of  the 
people  in  the  north,  is  German.  The  varieties  of  cos- 
tume which  have,  for  centuries,  marked  and  distin- 
guished the  inhabitants  of  the  different  valleys,  strongly 
arrest  the  notice  of  the  traveller.  Some  of  the  women 
wear  a singular  head-dress,  consisting  of  a conical 
mp  of  very  fine  dressed  wool,  either  white  or  black. 
It  looks  like  the  softest  fur  or  down,  is  very  expensive, 
and  an  article  in  which  they  take  great  pride.  A 
stranger,  however,  would  pronounce  it  a more  fitting 
head-gear  for  a Tartar  chief,  gallopping  on  his  native 
steppes,  than  for  the  peasant  woman  of  these  romantic 
vales.  Others  wear  a small  round  black  hat  with  a 
high  crown  and  nearly  conical,  with  their  long  hair 
rolled  up  behind  it,  in  a glossy  knot.  Others  wear 
broad  green  hats  tasseled  or  fringed  with  gilt  thread. 
Their  corsets,  their  aprons,  their  petticoats,  their  stock- 
ings, are  of  various  colors,  rustic  and  coarse,  but  pro- 
ducing an  effect  most  pleasing  and  picturesque.  The 
men  are  magnificent  alike  in  costume  and  appearance : 
\hey  are  remarkably  well  made,  and  have  an  open, 
XIX. — 17 


194 


THE  TYROL. 


fearless  expression  of  countenance.  They  wear  hats, 
some  broad,  some  narrow,  some  of  green  beaver,  some 
of  black,  with  green  ribands,  or  bands  of  black  velvet ; 
and  jackets  of  brown,  green  or  black,  worked  with  lace 
and  adorned  at  the  sleeve  and  waist  by  frogs  of  bright 
colored  cloth.  Their  waistcoats  are  commonly  red, 
and  they  generally  wear  very  broad  green  braces 
outside  the  waistcoat,  as  also  broad  belts  of  black  lea- 
ther round  the  middle,  on  which  are  usually  worked 
the  initial  letters  of  the  owner’s  name.  Many  of  them 
show  the  bare  knee,  and  wear  only  a half  stocking, 
and  a light  shoe  on  the  naked  foot. 

In  the  Tyrolese  inns,  the  traveller  remarks  an  im- 
portant female  personage  called  the  Keller in^  or  “ cel- 
lar-keeper.” She  wears  black  petticoats  of  ample 
folds,  and  keys  enough,  in  number  and  size,  for  the 
warder  of  a castle.  Her  guardianship,  however,  is 
not  over  turrets  and  dungeons,  but  over  closets  and 
cellars,  wines  and  meats,  fruits  and  preserves,  and  all 
household  comforts.  She  makes  all  change,  and 
receives  all  payments,  for  which  purpose  she  wears  a 
large  leathern  pocket,  which,  like  the  tradesman’s  till, 
is  emptied  every  evening.  She  is  intrusted  with 
the  household  stores  ; she  brings  each  traveller  his 
meal,  and  blesses  it : she  brings  him  his  wine-cup,  and 
it  is  yet  the  custom  with  the  older  Tyrolese  that  she 
should  at  least  put  her  lips  to  it.  She  is  always  ad- 
dressed with  kindness.  “ Mein  Kind^'*  “ my  child,” 
is  the  common  phrase,  and  it  is  varied  in  warmth 
and  tenderness,  according  to  circumstances:  some- 
times it  is  ‘‘  my  pretty  child,”  “ my  heart,”  or  “ my 
treasure.”  In  general,  though  there  are  some  of  her 


THE  TYROL. 


195 


class  of  great  beauty,  the  Kellerin  is  a stout,  coarse, 
active  woman,  with  a frank  readiness  of  service  in  her 
manner,  and  a plain  pride  of  station — the  pride  of 
being  trustworthy.  It  may  be  supposed  that  the  com- 
plimentary phrases  we  have  m.entioned  are  not  always 
used  with  discretion  by  youthful  travellers,  yet  there 
is  a manner  of  employing  them  without  any  impro- 
priety ; and  the  very  utterance  is  a pleasure,  they  bege 
so  much  kindliness  and  good  humor. 


ITALY 


No  country  of  the  same  extent  exhibits  so  great  a 
'variety  of  dress  as  Italy.  The  higher  classes,  indeed, 
copy  the  French  fashions  in  a great  measure,  but  the 
costume  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes  varies  re- 
markably from  one  district  to  another.  The  fashions 
differ  even  in  small  districts  and  towns.  In  the  king- 
dom of  Naples,  the  shepherds  wear  the  skins  of  their 
flock,  with  the  wool  outward  in  summer  and  inward 


ITALY. 


197 


in  winter  : these  garments  are  rudely  formed,  and 
have  sometimes  only  holes  pierced  for  the  head  and 
arms.  In  the  Koman  States,  the  female  peasantry  are 
distinguished  for  a peculiar  sort  of  head  dress  of  white 
cotton,  which  lies  flat  on  the  top  of  the  head,  hanging 
down  behind  and  fastened  by  an  enormous  silver  pin 
or  rather  skewer  ; this  appears  to  he  a relic  of  the  clas- 
sical ages.  In  Tuscany,  the  women  of  the  ordinary 
class  wear  black  beaver  hats  with  high  crowns,  and 
stiff  plumes  of  black  feathers.  On  holidays  they  are 
streaming  with  ribands.  The  country  women  of 
Rome  wear  round  hats,  like  those  of  the  men ; the 
ordinary  dress  of  the  males  is  a velvet  roundabout  and 
small  clothes,  with  white  stockings.  In  the  southern 
part  of  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia,  the  women  wear  a 
sort  of  apology  for  a bonnet,  in  the  shape  of  a disk  of 
plaited  straw  of  about  a hand’s  breadth  in  diameter, 
stuck  jauntily  on  one  side  of  the  head.  In  Genoa,  the 
females  of  all  ranks  wear  very  gracefully  the  mazzaro^ 
a kind  of  shawl  thrown  over  the  head  and  shoulders, 
and  folded  round  the  arms.  A remnant  of  the  antique 
Greek  costume  is  to  be  found  in  the  island  of  Procida 
in  the  bay  of  Naples,  where  it  has  been  preserved  from 
very  ancient  times.  In  Sicily,  the  peasantry  wear 
caps  of  white  cotton,  as  a defence  against  a sun-stroke, 
to  which  they  are  liable  in  that  hot  climate.  Through- 
out all  Italy,  the  females  even  of  the  lowest  classes 
evince  a great  fondness  for  ornament ; pearls,  coral 
and  gold  are  common  among  those  who  are  poor  in 
everything  else.  In  Tuscany,  the  country  women 
wear  earrings  a foot  in  length. 

Almost  every  species  of  building  may  be  found  in 
M 17* 


198 


ITALY. 


Italy,  from  the  straw- thatched  hovel  to  the  lordly 
palace,  and'  no  country  exhibits  a greater  variety  of 
edifices,  nor  more  splendid  and  costly  specimens  of 
architecture.  The  churches  are  the  most  expensive 
> and  magnificent  in  the  world,  and  the  convents  and 

palaces  are  unrivalled.  Architecture,  painting,  carv- 
ing, sculpture,  mosaic-work  and  other  arts  are  ex- 
hausted on  the  churches,  and  many  of  them  have  a 
minuteness  of  finish  that  is  truly  worthy  of  admira- 
tion. The  pillars  and  walls  of  some  are  encrusted 
with  mosaic  pictures,  or  fac-simile  copies  in  precious 
stone  of  the  masterpieces  of  Italian  painting;  the 
ceilings  are  covered  with  frescoes,  and  the  doors  are 
inimitably  carved  in  bronze. 

All  the  Italian  cities  are  well  built.  Genoa  is  so 
abundant  in  palaces  that  it  is  Termed^  by  the  Italians 
“ the  lordly.”  In  Florence,  pak|es  :are;^so  very  nu- 
merous, but  they  are  of  a peci^nar  char^ter,  exhibit- 
ing strong,  solid  and  massy^walls,  which*  indicate  a 
time  when  factions  convulsed  the*  city,  and  every 
house  was  designed  to  resist  an  assault  and  stand  a 
siege.  At  Rome  are  reckoned  three  hundred  churches 
and  as  many  palaces,  worthy  of  admiration.  St.  Pe- 
ter’s church  is  the  most  magnificent  and  costly  struc- 
ture ever  raised  by  the^ihand  of  man.  The  Roman 
palaces  are  very  elegant,  bging  generally  quadrangles, 
with  an  area  within,  and  a wide  staircase.  At  Na- 
ples, the  churches,  though  rich  internally,  present  an 
inferior  appearance  outside.  The  palaces  are  impos- 
ing ; their  roofs  are  flat,  and  Covered  with  a cement 
that  endures  the  climate.  At  some  seasons  the  peo- 
ple sleep  upon  them.  Every  window  has  its  balcony. 


ITALY. 


199 


Few  chimneys  are  seen  either  here  or  at  Rome;  the 
climate  is  so  mild  that  a brazier  of  charcoal  is  sufficient 
to  warm  the  rooms.  There  are  many  specimens  of 
fantastic  architecture  in  Italy,  among  which  are  the 
leaning  towers  of  Pisa  and  Bologna,  which  project 
over  their  foundations,  and  seem  threatening  to  fall 
every  moment,  yet  they  have  stood  storms  and  earth- 
quakes and  many  centuries  of  time.  These  struc- 
tures were  erected  during  the  middle  ages,  and  their 
singular  fashion  was,  doubtless,  the  result  of  design, 
although  some  persons  have  imagined  that  it  was  oc- 
casioned by  the  accidental  sinking  of  the  foundations. 

Travelling  is  exceedingly  pleasant  in  Italy.  The 
roads,  in  general,  are  good,  and  the  scenery  is  roman- 
tic and  varied.  The  roads  across  the  Alps,  by  Mount 
Cenis  and  the  Simplon,  constructed  under  the  auspices 
of  Napoleon,- rank  ^ong  the  greatest  productions  of 
human  en^fg}’' aWdiBbor  in  modern  times.  There  arc 
few  cross  roads^  and; these  are  hardly  passable.  Ii. 
Sicily  there  is  a carriage  road  along  part  of  the  east- 
ern and  northern  coast,  but  nothing  except  mule-paths 
in  the  interior  of  the  island.  The  most  common  way 
of  travelling  in  Italy  is  in  a vettura^  or  coach  with 
four  horses.  The  vetturino^  or  driver,  looks  out 
among  foreigners  for  his  passengers,  to  each  of  whom 
he  tenders  a crown  in  plecfge,  to  be  forfeited  in  case 
he  should  fail  to  go ; but  if  the  passenger  should  fail 
to  be  ready,  he  forfeits  the  like  amount.  The  bargain 
with  the  vetturino  generally  includes  the  passage  and 
accommodations  at  ^the  inns,  and  this  arrangement 
saves  the  traveller  much  overcharging  and  wrangling. 
A written  contract  is  drawn  up  and  signed  if  required. 


200 


ITALY. 


If  he  has  been  civil  and  obliging,  it  is  customary  to  give 
him,  at  the  end  of  the  journey,  a buona  mano^  or  gratuity 
of  half  a dollar  or  a dollar.  The  custom-houses  and 
passports  are  great  annoyances.  The  former  are  at 
the  frontiers  of  the  states,  and  at  the  gates  of  the  cities. 
The  officers  well  know  how  to  visit  the  traveller  with 
manifold  vexations  if  he  should  fail  to  purchase  their 
forbearance  with  half  a dollar  or  so.  The  passport  is 
taken  at  all  the  police  stations  on  the  road,  and  at  the 
gates  of  all  considerable  towns,  carried  to  the  com- 
mandant, endorsed,  and  returned  by  a soldier,  whose 
low  bow  is  generally  rewarded  by  a small  piece  of 
coin.  In  Tuscany,  unless  a stranger  resides  in  a city, 
he  surrenders  his  passport,  and  receives  a written  per- 
mission to  remain  a certain  time,  and  this  must  be 
renewed  when  that  is  expired.  Before  quitting  one  in- 
dependent state  for  another,  it  is  necessary  to  have  the 
permission  of  the  minister  or  consul  of  the  state  to 
which  the  traveller  is  going.  These  various  endorse- 
ments and  seals  on  a passport  soon  cover  every  part 
of  it,  and  new  paper  must  be  added  to  it,  which  in 
time  becomes  a long  roll. 

In  Sicily,  for  the  most  part,  the  traveller  must  pro- 
ceed upon  a mule,  or  in  a lettiga^  which  is  a sort  of 
sedan,  borne  by  two  mules  with  long  poles,  one  be- 
fore and  one  behind.  This  they  carry  in  perfect 
safety  over  steep  and  rocky  paths,  where  a horse 
would  be  sure  to  break  his  neck.  Robbers  were  for- 
merly very  numerous  in  Sicily  and  Calabria,  and 
even  in  the  Roman  States ; but  they  are  now  in  a 
great  measure  suppressed,  the  roads  being  guarded 
by  gend'annes. 


ITALY. 


201 


The  national  character  and  state  of  society  in  Italy 
are  marked  by  prominent  and  striking  features.  The 
people,  in  some  respects,  are  perhaps  the  most  polished 
and  refined  in  the  world.  Music,  painting,  poetry  and 
assemblies  for  conversation  form  the  delight  of  the 
Italians.  They  have  ardent  temperaments  and  poetic 
imaginations.  No  people  who  have  lived  since  the 
best  days  of  Athens  have  had  so  much  perception  for 
the  beautiful  as  these.  The  skies  are  so  soft  and  clear, 
that  it  has  been  said  almost  without  hyperbole,  that  the 
moon  of  Naples  is  brighter  than  the  sun  of  England. 
Every  distant  mountain  and  headland  is  bathed  in 
purple  light,  and  every  sun  rises  and  sets,  “ trailing 
clouds  of  glory.’’  The  language  in  which  the  infant 
Italian  utters  his  first  lispings  is  like  the  murmur  of 
music ; every  sound  is  open  and  labial.  The  first 
landscape  over  which  his  eye  ranges  is  unsurpassed 
on  the  earth ; it  has  festoons  of  vines  purple  with 
gushing  grapes,  and  groves  of  oranges  bending  with 
golden  fruit.  The  churches  where  the  youth  pays 
his  wondering  devotions  are  the  perfection  of  human 
art,  the  most  splendid  and  “ solemn  temples  ” ever 
erected  by  the  hand  of  man.  The  ruins  in  which  he 
plays  with  his  mates  are  remains  of  which  no  time 
can  obliterate  the  beauty ; and  the  paintings  and 
sculptures  that  often  chain  his  attention,  all  combine 
to  direct  his  genius  to  the  graceful,  the  beautiful  and 
the  ideal.  The  statues,  those  calm  and  majestic  in- 
telligences, the  impressive  congregation  of  the  silent, 
exert  a magic  influence  over  the  soul.  Feeling  and 
.thoughts  they  have  not,  but  they  unlock  in  the  beholder 
the  fountains  of  both. 


202 


ITALY. 


The  lower  ranks  form  the  mass  of  the  Italian  popu- 
lation, with  scarcely  any  intervening  class  between 
them  and  the  nobles.  They  share  in  some  degree  the 
refined  tastes  and  manners  of  the  higher  ranks.  The 
common  shopkeepers  of  Florence  and  Kome  possess  a 
taste  in  the  fine  arts  and  in  poetry,  which  is  unknown 
even  in  the  most  polished  circles  beyond  the  Alps. 
They  delight  also  in  conversation,  which  they  support 
with  peculiar  liveliness,  and  with  gesticulations  the 
most  varied  and  expressive  of  any  European  people. 
The  peasantry  are,  on  the  whole,  a poor,  quiet,  con- 
tented, orderly  race,  spending,  not  very  wisely,  all 
their  little  savings  in  finery  for  their  wives  and  daugh- 
ters. The  lazzaroni  of  Naples  are  a singular  class  of 
beings,  existing  almost  wholly  out  of  the  pale  of  regu- 
lar society.  The  mild'  climate  enables  them  to  live 
without  houses,  almost  without  clothes,  and  with  only 
a daily  handful  of  macaroni  for  food.  Having  obtained 
this  by  theft,  by  begging,  or  by  some  little  occasional 
work,  they  abandon  themselves  to  luxurious  indolence 
or  the  indulgence  of  wayward  humors.  They  are  a 
set  of  wild,  merry  rogues,  with  all  the  rude  energy 
of  savages,  full  of  humor,  address,  ready  argument 
and  quick  repartee. 

The  population  of  Naples  has  no  parallel  upon  earth. 
The  streets  are  constantly  overflowing  with  a tide  of 
human  beings,  rolling  up  and  down,  and  in  the  midst 
of  this  tide  are  a hundred  eddies.  In  one  place  you 
are  swept  away  by  the  current ; in  another,  you  are 
wheeled  round  by  a vortex.  All  sorts  of  trades  and 
mechanic  arts  are  carried  on  in  the  streets  ; the  car- 
penter, the  shoemaker,  the  tailor,  the  baker,  dispute 


ITALY. 


203 


your  passage  with  their  benches,  stalls,  pots  and  pans. 
In  this  region  of  caricature,  every  bargain  sounds  like 
a battle  ; the  popular  exhibitions  are  full  of  the  gro- 
tesque, and  the  religious  processions  would  startle  a 
war-horse.  The  Mole,  or  “ Long  Wharf,”  seems,  on 
holidays,  an  epitome  of  the  city,  and  exhibits  most  of 
its  humors.  You  may  see  in  one  place  a methodisti- 
cal  friar  preaching  to  a knot  of  lazzaroni ; in  another, 
Punch,  the  representative  of  the  nation,  holds  forth  to 
a crowd.  Farther  on,  another  orator  recounts  the 
miracles  performed  by  a sacred  wax-work,  on  which 
he  rubs  his  agnus  dei^  and  sells  it,  thus  impregnated 
with  grace,  for  half  a cent.  Beyond  him  are  quacks, 
in  military  uniform,  puffing  their  nostrums.  Next  is 
a dancing  dog,  a learned  pig,  &:c.,  each  with  a little 
circle  of  admirers.  There  are  seen  fellows  fiddling 
and  singing  to  the  music  of  crazy  guitars ; and  groups 
congregate  around  a tragicomic  Jilosofo^  who  recites 
passages  of  Ariosto  and  Tasso,  and  sings  and  gesticu- 
lates old  Gothic  tales  of  Orlando  and  his  Paladins. 
The  Neapolitans  are  perhaps  the  only  people  on  earth 
that  do  not  pretend  to  virtue.  On  their  own  stage, 
they  suffer  the  hero  of  the  drama  always  to  he  a rogue. 
When  detected  in  theft,  a lazzarone  will  ask  you  with 
impudent  surprise  how  you  could  possibly  expect  a 
poor  man  to  be  an  angel. 

The  Romans  are  the  most  reserved  and  taciturn  of 
all  the  Italians,  and  the  contrast  between  the  popula- 
tion of  Rome  and  that  of  Naples  is  very  striking.  The 
tradespeople  are,  in  general,  honest  and  civil,  not  alto- 
gether cheerful,  but  yet  not  sullen.  The  higher  classes 
are  courteous  and  accessible ; in  no  part  of  Italy  are 


View  of  Borne, 


ITALY. 


205 


the  conversazioni  more  elegant,  more  various,  or  more 
free  from  aristocratkal  stiffness.  Whether  general 
gaiety  or  literature,  painting  or  music,  or  politics  or 
buffoonery  be  your  object,  in  one  house  or  other  you 
may  be  gratified  every  evening.  The  character  of  the 
common  people  has  some  strange  anomalies.  Thou- 
sands almost  starve  themselves  during  the  whole 
month  of  September,  to . provide  for  one  extravagant 
feast  in  October,  at  the  Monte  Testaccio.  Though 
timidly  cautious  in  common  transactions,  they  are  des- 
perate at  play.  This  passion,  pervading  every  rank, 
finds  all  the  lotteries  of  Italy  open  at  Rome,  and  many 
call  in  religion  to  the  aid  of  gambling.  They  resort 
to  San  Giovanni  Decollato,  a church  devoted  to  con- 
demned criminals,  and  try  to  catch  in  prayer  certain 
divine  intimations  of  the  lucky  ticket.  Their  resent- 
ments can  lie  brooding  for  many  years,  waiting  for  an 
opportunity  of  fulfilment.  Boys  fly  to  stones,  and  men 
to  the  clasp-knife,  but  the  most  desperate  ruffian  ab- 
stains from  fire-arms.  To  shoot  your  enemy  is  held 
atrocious ; to  plunge  a stiletto  into  his  back  is  a proof 
of  spirit.  A first  murder  establishes  the  reputation  of 
a young  man,  like  a first  duel  in  other  countries. 

Both  at  Rome  and  Naples,  beggars  are  abundant, 
and  many  of  them  are  genteel,  well-dressed  people.  A 
marchioness  comes  to  your  lodgings,  recounts  the  for- 
tunes of  her  noble  house,  its  rank,  its  loyalty,  its  dis- 
asters, its  fall,  and  then  relieves  your  “ most  illustrious 
excellency”  from  embarrassment,  by  begging  sixpence 
or  a shilling.  An  old  abate  steals  on  your  evening 
walk,  and  twitching  you  with  affected  secrecy,  whis- 
pers that  he  is  starving.  On  the  dirty  pavements  you 
XIX. — 18 


206 


ITALY. 


see  genteel  beggars,  kneeling  silently,  in  masks.  In 
Venice  you  are  accosted  by  well-dressed  beggars,  who 
have  no  scruple  in  telling  you  that  they  are  poveri 
nohilL 

The  Tuscans  are  the  New-En glanders  of  Italy. 
They  exc^l  all  their  neighbors  in  thrift,  ingenuity,  in- 
dustry, the  neatness  of  their  towns,  and  the  general 
comforts  of  life.  They  are  also  remarkably  amiable, 
good-tempered  and  kind  to  strangers.  Florence  is  the 
most  agreeable  residence  in  all  Italy.  The  humanity 
and  benevolence  of  the  Tuscans  are  also  conspicuous. 
They  have  an  institution  called  the  Misericordia, 
which  extends  throughout  the  whole  Grand  Duchy. 
In  Florence,  it  comprises  four  hundred  persons,  many 
of  them  of  high  rank.  These  individuals  devote  them- 
selves to  personal  attendance  on  the  sick,  superintend- 
ing the  hospitals,  distributing  food  to  the  patients,  and 
watching  the  manner  in  which  they  are  treated. 
These  duties  they  perform  under  the  disguise  of  long 
black  vestments  which  conceal  the  face.  There  is 
another  society  for  searching  out  and  relieving  the 
poor,  who  have  seen  better  days,  and  are  ashamed  to 
beg. 

In  the  middle  of  the  day,  at  Florence,  all  business 
is  suspended,  and  the  shops  are  shut  during  the  hours 
allotted  to  the  siesta,  or  after-dinner  nap.  In  the 
evening,  the  streets  are  swarming  with  population  : 
and  now  the  workman,  having  finished  his  daily  task, 
instead  of  expending  his  little  gains  at  the  wine-shop, 
as  he  would  do  at  Rome,  takes  his  guitar,  and  sallies 
forth  in  the  character  of  a rhapsodist  or  gallant.  From 
night-fall  to  daybreak,  the  streets  resound  with  music. 


ITALY. 


207 


No  country  is  rnore  famous  than  Italy  for  religious 
festivals.  The  amusements  of  the  Carnival,  though 
somewhat  on  the  wane,  are  sufficient  to  draw  seven 
or  eight  thousand  English  annually  to  Kome,  where 
the  Piazza  di  Spagna  has  the  appearance  of  an  Eng- 
lish town.  The  sports  of  the  Carnival  are  ushered  in 
by  a public  execution,  for  which  a malefactor,  or  more 
than  one,  is  reserved.  The  Corso,  or  principal  street 
of  Rome,  is  the  scene  of  the  show.  The  windows  and 
balcoYiies  are  filled  with  people,  and  there  is  in  the 
street  a dense  and  ever-moving  crowd,  all  in  masquer- 
ade. The  carriages  are,  many  of  them,  devised  for 
the  occasion,  and  some  represent  ships,  temples,  and 
classical  pageants ; the  coachmen  are  commonly  dis- 
guised as  old  women.  All  dresses  and  characters  are 
allowed  except  those  of  the  clergy.  The  masks  are 
worn  for  defence  as  well  as  concealment,  for  the  grand 
sport  is  to  pelt  everybody,  male  and  female,  with  su- 
gar plums,  which  rain  in  an  incessant  tempest.  The 
people  carry  bags  and  baskets  of  them,  and  shower 
them  by  the  handful,  right  and  left.  Childish  as  this 
may  seem,  it  is  followed  with  so  much  zeal  that  it  is 
highly  amusing.  At  the  close  of  the  day  there  is  a 
horse-race.  Several  spirited  horses  without  riders  are 
started  from  the  head  of  the  Corso,  and  spurred  on  by 
bullets  stuck  full  of  sharp  points,  which  are  fastened 
to  their  backs,  and  made  to  flap  against  their  flanks  as 
they  run.  The  crowd  opens  to  the  right  and  left  as 
they  pass,  and  the  horses  are  stopped  at  the  end  of 
about  a mile.  After  this  scene,  each  one  of  the  im- 
mense concourse  lights  a candle,  with  which  he  has 
furnished  himself,  and  a scene  of  uproar  commenceSj 


208 


ITALY. 


every  man  trying  to  extinguish  his  neighbor’s  light. 
These  amusements  of  the  Carnival  last  three  days,  and 
are  the  same  in  all  the  cities.  It  is  extremely  credit- 
able to  the  Italians,  that  in  these  saturnalia,  where 
all  ranks  of  people  are  mingled,  there  is  seldom  any 
breach  of  order  or  decorum. 

There  are  certain  remnants  of  mercantile  habits  in 
some  of  the  principal  Italian  cities,  which  have  excited 
the  ridicule  of  the  English,  although  practices  hardly 
more  creditable  are  not  unknown  in  Great  Britain. 
Ostentatious  magnificence  is  combined  with  sordid 
economy.  The  most  superb  equipages  and  apartments 
are  let  out  to  foreigners,  who  are  not  even  quite  sure 
of  honest  dealing.  On  the  ground  floor  of  many  of 
the  Florentine  palaces  is  a little  shop,  where  the  pro- 
prietor sells  the  wine  and  oil  from  his  estates. 

The  deepest  reproach  of  Italian  manners  seems  to 
be  the  established  system  of  cicisheism,  by  which  every 
married  lady  is  allowed  her  lover,  or  cavalier  servente, 
who  imposes  on  himself  the  duty,  wherever  she  is  or 
goes,  to  dangle  after  her  as  her  devoted  slave.  This 
connexion  is  said  to  be  not  decidedly  criminal,  as  our 
manners  would  lead  us  to  suppose,  but  rather  to  form 
a certain  state  into  which  it  is  necessary  to  enter,  on 
pain  of  expulsion  from  the  fashionable  circles,  and 
which  is  continued  according  to  a routine  of  almost 
mechanical  observance,  the  gallant  speaking,  not  of 
the  mistress  whom  he  loves,  but  of  her  whom  he 
serves.  This  system  certainly  sanctions  the  public 
display  of  apparent,  if  not  of  real  infidelity,  to  the  most 
important  and  religious  obligation  of  domestic  life. 
But  it  is  happily  confined  to  the  higher  classes,  and, 


ITALY. 


209 


even  among  them,  examples  are  not  unfrequent  of 
conjugal  virtue. 

In  Piedmont,  the  character,  manners  and  dress 
strongly  resemble  those  of  France.  The  inhabitants, 
like  all  mountaineers,  are  much  attached  to  their 
country ; and  though  many  of  them  wander  over  Eu- 
rope with  a hand-organ,  a marmot,  or  a dancing-bear, 
they  return  when,  after  many  years,  their  frugality 
has  obtained  a small  sum  which  is  independence  in 
their  own  indigent  country. 

Florence  and  Venice  are  the  two  places  in  Italy 
where  we  find  popular  drollery  in  its  greatest  perfec- 
tion, and  of  that  gay  and  natural  cast  which  marks 
the  humor  of  the  Irish.  This  is  more  or  less  dif- 
fused over  all  Italy.  The  wit  of  the  Venetians  has  its 
peculiar  character ; it  is  lighter  than  the  Florentine, 
and  shows  itself  in  practical  jokes  and  repartees. 
Moliere’s  best  bufibonery  is  borrowed  from  the  Vene- 
tian drama.  The  Neapolitan  humor  is  more  broad 
and  coarse,  and  more  nearly  allied  to  farce  and  ribald- 
ry. Some  of  the  traits  of  the  Venetians  may  be 
traced  to  their  ancient  intercourse  with  the  Ottomans, 
from  whom  they  borrowed  many  of  their  customs ; to 
this  day  their  cofiee-houses  are  more  Oriental  than 
Italian. 


18* 


GEEECE. 


The  national  traits  of  the  ancient  Greeks  are  as 
plain  in  their  descendants  as  the  cast  of  countenance 
that  has  come  down  to  us  in  medals  and  statues. 
There  is  a great  national  similarity  among  all  the 
Greeks,  however  widely  scattered.  They  prove  their 
descent  by  possessing  some  of  the  virtues,  and  all  the 
faults,  of  their  ancestors  ; yet  their  character,  both  be- 
fore and  after  the  revolution,  has  been  painted  in,  per- 
haps, too  unfavorable  colors.  They  are  represented 


GREECE. 


211 


as  addicted  to  the  vices  incident  to  every  despised  and 
oppressed  people — avarice,  intrigue,  cunning,  servility, 
and  as  being  almost  entirely  governed  by  motives  of 
self-interest.  The  peasantry  are  allowed  to  be  a very 
fine  race ; and,  indeed,  the  great  actions  performed  in 
the  course  of  the  late  contest,  must  silence  those  who 
pretend  that  the  nation  has  lost  all  its  energies. 

The  dress  of  the  Greeks  is  formed  on  the  model  of 
the  Turkish.  Since  their  independence,  they  have 
even  made  it  a kind  of  a triumph  to  display  the  green 
turban  and  other  symbols  which  Moslem  bigotry  had 
prohibited  from  being  worn  by  an  infidel.  In  general, 
the  attire  of  all  who  can  afford  it  is  gaudy  and  glitter- 
ing, covered  with  gold  and  silver  embroidery,  and  the 
most  brilliant  colors.  Above  all,  the  arms  of  the  chief 
are  most  profusely  adorned,  mounted  with  silver  and 
even  jewels.  The  Greek  female  walks  abroad  in  a 
robe  of  red  or  blue  cloth,  over  which  is  spread  a thin, 
flowing  veil  of  muslin.  At  home  she  is,  as  it  were, 
uncased ; and  when  the  traveller  is  admitted  into  her 
apartment,  he  finds  the  girl,  like  Thetis,  treading  on  a 
soft  carpet,  her  white  and  delicate  feet  naked,  and  her 
nails  tinged  with  red.  Her  veil  is  of  silk,  exactly 
suited  to  the  form  of  the  body,  which  it  covers  rather 
than  conceals.  A rich  zone  encompasses  her  waist, 
fastened  before  by  clasps  of  silver  gilded.  She  wears 
bracelets  of  gold,  and  a necklace  of  golden  zecchins. 

The  food  of  the  Greeks,  through  the  combined  influ- 
ence of  poverty,  and  the  long  fasts  enjoined  by  their 
religion,  is  composed  in  a great  measure  of  fish,  vege- 
tables and  fruit.  Caviare  is  the  national  ragout,  and 
like  other  fish  dishes,  is  eaten  seasoned  with  aromatic 


212 


GREECE. 


herbs.  Snails  dressed  in  garlic  are  also  a favorite 
dish.  Their  most  valued  fruits  are  olives,  melons  and 
gourds,  of  which  last  they  are  extravagantly  fond. 
Their  pastry  is  combined  of  honey  and  oil,  which  with 
any  one  but  a Greek  is  indigestible. 

The  Greek  chieftains  and  the  higher  classes,  in  their 
country  seats,  maintain  a dignified  and  courteous  hos- 
pitality, and  a paternal  kindness  toward  their  retainers, 
resembling  what  is  occasionally  seen  among  the  old 
lairds  of  Scotland.  The  female  sex  enjoy  greater 
liberty,  and  are  treated  with  much  more  respect,  than 
among  the  Turks.  They  are  distinguished  by  beauty, 
and  by  a remarkable  delicacy  of  features  and  com- 
plexion. The  Greeks  of  the  cities,  on  the  contrary, 
when  they  acquire  riches,  study  to  imitate  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  Turkish  pashas,  the  only  models 
of  grandeur  which  they  have  ever  seen.  They  sit 
cross-legged,  in  the  Turkish  fashion ; eat  pilau  a la 
Turque ; smoke  with  long  pipes,  write  with  the 
left  hand,  walk  out  accompanied  with  a large  troop  of 
armed  people,  salute,  sleep,  loiter  about — all  d la 
Turque, 

Among  the  amusements  of  this  people,  the  dance 
seems  to  stand  foremost.  They  scarcely  meet  without 
this  entertainment ; it  is  frequently  enjoyed,  according 
to  ancient  custom,  in  the  open  air,  or  in  the  areas  of 
their  churches.  Many  of  their  dances  have  a classic 
character,  and  are  probably  of  antique  origin.  They 
have  a grand  circular  dance,  one  of  a very  intricate 
figure  in  celebration  of  the  vintage,  and  one  called  the 
creene^  supposed  to  have  been  invented  by  Theseuo. 
Their  dances  are  often  choral,  accompanied  by  songs, 


GREECE. 


213 

and  the  taste  for  music  is  very  general.  Foot-races, 
wrestling,  and  throwing  the  disc,  undoubtedly  handed 
down  from  antiquity,  still  maintain  their  places  among 
the  youth.  The  athletoi  pursue  the  exercise  of  wrest- 
ling in  a manner  entirely  similar  to  the  ancient 
practices  at  the  Olympic  games. 

The  religion  of  the  Greeks  is  that  which  was  des- 
ignated by  their  name,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Eoman 
Catholic,  after  the  great  schism  of  the  eastern  and 
western  churches.  The  lower  ranks  have  a religion 
of  mere  forms,  while  the  upper  ranks  are  said  to  have 
no  religion  at  all.  The  most  respectable  of  the  clergy 
are  the  monks  or  caloyers^  out  of  whom  are  chosen  the 
bishops,  and  the  Patriarch — a general  head  of  the 
church.  Some  of  them  are  men  of  theological  learn- 
ing, who  lead  regular  lives,  but  a violent  spirit  of 
intrigue  prevails  in  pursuit  of  the  dignities  of  the 
church,  which  are  bestowed  by  election.  The  secular 
clergy  consist  of  the  'papas^  or  village  priests,  who,  as 
is  usual  among  an  unenlightened  people,  exercise 
the  most  unbounded  influence  over  the  lower  ranks. 
It  is  said  that  some  of  these  priests  have  no  scruple  in 
joining  bands  of  robbers  and  sharing  in  their  booty. 

N 


TURKEY. 


Interior  of  a Turkish  house. 


The  Turks  are  an  Asiatic  people,  and  though  they 
have  been  established  in  Europe  for  about  four  centu- 
ries, they  still  maintain  the  manners  and  character  of 
the  country  in  which  they  originated.  They  therefore 
bear  a marked  contrast  in  respect  to  religion,  manners 
and  customs  to  the  people  around  them.  In  external 
appearance  they  have  been  thought  to  excel  the  inhabit- 
ants of  northern  and  western  Europe  : but  this  seems 
to  be  rather  owing  to  the  fashion  of  their  dress  than 


TURKEY. 


215 


to  any  physical  superiority.  The  Turkish  dress  com- 
pletely hides  all  deformity  of  person,  and  the  variety 
of  colors  which  it  exhibits,  as  well  as  the  weapons  and 
the  long  beard  worn  by  the  men,  serve  to  divert  the 
attention  of  the  observer  from  a close  examination  of 
the  form  and  features. 

The  Turk  wears  a calico  shirt,  and  over  it  a loose 
robe  descending  to  the  feet  and  fastened  round  the 
waist  by  a girdle.  Large  white  trousers  are  worn 
underneath,  and  the  feet  are  covered  with  light  slip- 
pers. A sword  and  pistols  are  stuck  in  the  girdle,  and 
a tobacco-box,  pocket-book,  &c.,  are  carried  in  the  bo- 
som. The  head  is  covered  with  a large  turban  com- 
posed of  a long  strip  of  muslin,  wound  round  in 
repeated  bandages.  The  material  of  the  dress  varies 
according  to  the  taste  and  wealth  of  the  individual. 
Sometimes  the  robe  is  of  red  silk,  and  sometimes  of 
French  or  English  broadcloth,  trimmed  with  various 
furs.  The  attire  of  the  women  differs  little  from  that 
of  the  men,  except  in  being  composed  of  finer  mate- 
rials and  exhibiting  more  ornament.  The  female 
head-dress  is  a bonnet  shaped  like  an  inverted  basket, 
formed  of  pasteboard,  covered  with  cloth  of  gold  or 
other  elegant  stuff,  with  a veil  extending  to  the  eye- 
brows, while  a fine  handkerchief  conceals  the  under 
parts  of  the  face. 

The  Turkish  manner  of  building  is  thought  by 
persons  who  have  long  resided  in  that  country  to 
be  very  convenient  and  well  adapted  to  their  country. 
The  Turks  are  not  solicitous  to  beautify  the  outsides 
of  their  houses,  which  are  generally  built  of  wood ; 
from  this  circumstance  arises  the  frequency  of  fires  at 
Constantinople.  Every  house,  on  the  death  of  the 


216 


TURKEY. 


owner,  becomes  the  property  of  the  grand  Signior,  and 
therefore  no  man  is  disposed  to  indulge  in  unnecessary 
expense  in  building.  All  he  aims  at  is  to  erect  a 
commodious  house  which  will  last  his  lifetime ; and  it 
is  a matter  of  indifference  to  him  if  it  falls  down  the 
year  after.  Every  house,  great  and  small,  is  divided 
into  two  distinct  parts,  connected  only  by  a narrow 
passage.  The  first  portion  has  a large  court  before  it, 
and  open  galleries  all  around.  The  gallery  leads  to 
the  chambers,  which  are  commonly  large  and  with  two 
rows  of  windows,  the  first  being  of  painted  glass. 
The  house  has  seldom  more  than  two  stories,  with  gal- 
leries to  each.  This  is  the  building  inhabited  by  the 
master.  The  adjoining  one  is  the  harem  or  the  apart- 
ment of  the  women.  This  has  also  a gallery  running 
round  it  towards  the  garden,  to  which  all  the  windows 
are  turned.  It  has  the  same  number  of  chambers  as  the 
other,  but  they  are  more  gay  and  splendid,  both  in  furni- 
ture and  decorations.  The  second  row  of  windows  is 
very  low,  with  grates  like  those  of  convents.  The  rooms 
are  all  spread  with  Persian  carpets,  and  raised  at  one 
end  about  two  feet ; this  is  the  divan  or  sofa,  which  is 
laid  with  a richer  sort  of  carpet,  and  all  around  it  is  a 
species  of  couch,  raised  half  a foot,  covered  with  rich 
silk  according  to  the  fancy  or  magnificence  of  the  owner. 
There  the  Turks  generally  make  their  most  imposing 
display ; and  Lady  Montagu  informs  us  that  nothing 
can  have  a more  gay  and  splendid  appearance.  The 
ceiling  is  of  wood,  generally  inlaid  or  painted  with 
flowers.  Between  the  windows  are  little  arches  in 
which  to  set  pots  of  perfume  or  baskets  of  flowers. 
In  the  lower  part  of  the  room  are  marble  fountains 


TURKEY. 


217 


which  throw  up  jets  of  water,  giving  at  the  same  time 
an  agreeable  coolness  and  a pleasant  dashing  sound, 
as  the  water  falls  from  one  basin  to  another.  Each 
house  has  a bagnio  consisting  of  two  or  three  little 
rooms,  leaded  on  the  top,  paved  with  marble,  with  ba- 
sins and  every  convenience  for  bathing,  either  in  hot 
or  cold  water. 

In  their  diet,  the  Turks  are  very  moderate,  and  their 
meals  are  despatched  with  great  haste.  Rice  is  the 
favorite  food,  and  is  dressed  for  the  most  part  in  three 
different  ways  : the  pilau  is  rice  boiled  with  mutton  or 
fowl ; the  lappa  is  plain  boiled  rice  ; and  the  tchorha 
is  a sort  of  broth.  In  boiling,  the  meat  is  cut  in  small 
pieces,  and  in  roasting,  still  smaller — a bit  of  flesh  and 
an  onion  being  placed  alternately  on  a very  long  spit. 
The  fish  of  the  Archipelago  are  excellent ; the  beef 
is  tolerable,  except  that  of  the  buffalo,  which  is  hard. 
The  hares,  partridges  and  other  game,  are  of  a superior 
flavor.  The  dishes  are  very  highly  seasoned ; soup  is 
served  for  the  last  course,  and  the  variety  of  ragouts  is 
as  great  as  in  France.  The  meal  is  usually  spread  on 
a low  wooden  table,  and  the  master  of  the  house  pro- 
nounces a short  prayer  before  the  commencement  of 
the  repast.  No  knives  and  forks  are  used ; the  fingers 
supply  their  place ; yet  the  Turks  manage  to  eat  in  a 
manner  much  more  cleanly  than  would  be  supposed 
from  this  custom.  Coffee  is  taken  at  the  conclusion 
of  the  repast,  and  sometimes  fruits  and  cold  water  fol- 
low the  tobacco-pipe. 

The  use  of  wine  is  formally  interdicted  by  the  Ko- 
ran, yet  the  Turks  drink  it.  “Achmet  Bey,”  says  Lady 
Montagu,  “ made  no  scruple  of  deviating  from  some 

XIX. — 19 


218 


TURKEY. 


part  of  Mahomet’s  law  by  drinking  wine  with  the  same 
freedom  we  did.  When  I asked  him  how  he  came  to 
allow  himself  that  liberty,  he  made  answer  that  all 
the  creatures  of  God  are  good,  and  designed  for  the  use 
of  man ; however,  that  the  prohibition  of  wine  was  a 
very  wise  maxim,  and  meant  for  the  common  people, 
wine  being  the  source  or  all  disorders  among  them ; 
but  that  the  prophet  never  designed  to  restrict  those 
that  knew  how  to  use  it  with  moderation.  Neverthe- 
less he  said  that  scandal  ought  to  be  avoided,  and  that 
he  never  drank  it  in  public.  This  is  the  general  way 
of  thinking  among  these  Turks,  and  very  few  forbear 
drinking  wine  that  are  able  to  afford  it.” 

A Turkish  lady  of  fashion  is  wooed  by  an  invisible 
lover.  In  the  progress  of  the  courtship,  a hyacinth  is 
occasionally  dropped  in  her  path  by  an  unknown  hand, 
and  the  female  attendant  at  the  bath  does  the  office  of 
a Mercury,  and  talks  of  a certain  Effendi  demanding 
a lady’s  love,  as  a nightingale  aspiring  to  the  affec- 
tions of  a rose.  The  Turkish  woman  cannot  write  or 
read ; a lillet  doux  is  therefore  beyond  her  capacity. 
A clove  wrapped  up  in  an  embroidered  handkerchief 
is  the  least  token  of  condescension  which  the  nightin- 
gale can  exhibit.  The  father  of  the  lady  is  at  length 
solicited  for  her  hand,  and  he  orders  her  to  give  it, 
and  to  love,  honor  and  obey  her  husband.  They  are 
married  by  proxy,  before  the  Cadi,  and  the  light  of  her 
lord’s  countenance  first  beams  on  her  in  the  nuptial 
chamber.  This  change  in  her  condition  is  one  which 
every  spinster  envies.  If  she  be  the  only  wife,  she 
reigns  in  the  harem  over  a host  of  slaves ; if  there 
be  two  or  three  more  wives,  she  shares  with  them  the 


TURKEY. 


219 


delights  of  domestic  sway.  Every  week,  at  least, 
she  is  blest  with  a return  of  her  husband’s  love. 
He  enters  the  harem  at  noon-day,  and  at  sun-set,  after 
the  fatigue  of  sauntering  from  one  bazaar  to  another, 
he  performs  his  evening  ablutions : one  obsequious 
lady  fetches  a vial  of  rosewater  to  perfume  his  beard ; 
another  bears  a looking-glass  with  a mother-of-pearl 
handle ; another  carries  an  embroidered  napkin.  Sup- 
per is  brought  in  by  a host  of  slaves  and  servants. 
The  women  stand  before  him  while  he  eats  ; and 
when  he  has  finished,  a number  of  additional  dishes 
are  brought  in  for  them.  One  of  the  female  slaves 
generally  presents  the  pipe  on  one  knee,  and  some- 
times one  of  the  wives  brings  the  coffee,  and  kisses 
the  hand  of  her  lord.  This  ceremony  every  wife  goes 
through  in  the  morning,  none  daring  to  sit  down  in 
his  presence,  except  such  as  have  the  honor  of  being 
mothers. 

The  women  vie  with  one  another  in  soliciting  the 
smiles  of  their  common  lord.  One  shows  the  rich 
silk  she  has  been  embroidering  for  his  vest ; another 
regales  him  with  music,  and  a third  displays  the 
beauty  of  her  form  in  the  dance.  Some  one  is  gene- 
rally the  favorite,  and  till  she  is  supplanted  by  another, 
she  is  treated  with  superior  respect  by  all  the  family. 
When  she  goes  to  the  bath,  she  is  to  be  distinguished 
by  the  importance  of  her  air;  the  strutting  gait  attests 
her  quality.  Woe  betide  the  unlucky  Christian  who 
crosses  her  path : women  of  quality  are  more  prone  to 
insult  strangers  than  any  other  class  of  Turks ; their 
fanaticism  is  in  the  ratio  with  their  rank.  Marriage 
is  only  a civil  contract,  which  either  party  may  annul. 


220 


TURKEY. 


A man  may  take  as  many  wives  as  he  pleases,  not 
exceeding  four.  The  Turks  have  long  been  accus- 
tomed to  choose  their  wives  from  the  fairest  women  of 
Georgia  and  Circassia,  and  latterly  of  Greece.  As 
beauty  is  the  only  quality  required,  it  may  be  well 
imagined  that  lovelier  women  are  nowhere  to  be 
found,  nor  more  beautiful  children,  than  here. 

Where  personal  charms  are  all  that  makes  a woman 
valuable,  it  is  to  be  supposed  that  every  care  is  taken 
to  heighten  them.  Cosmetics  are  used  in  abundance. 
The  ladies  tinge  their  eyelids  with  a metallic  powder 
which  the  Turks  call  surfne^  and  the  Egyptians  hohol. 
They  smear  a little  ebony  rod  with  this  and  apply  it 
to  the  eyelids,  which  they  bring  in  contact,  and  squeez- 
ing the  rod  between  them,  a small  black  line  is  left  on 
the  edge  of  either  lid,  which  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty 
of  the  long  eyelashes,  and  to  the  brilliancy  of  the  eye. 
They  also  stain  their  nails  and  finger-ends  red  with  the 
juice  of  henna.  The  lower  classes  of  women  rouge 
their  cheeks,  but  fashionable  ladies  seldom  apply  it 
except  to  the  lips. 

The  confinement  to  the  harem  is  not,  perhaps,  so 
irksome  as  is  generally  imagined.  The  women  visit 
one  another  frequently,  and  once  a week  they  revel 
in  the  bath,  which  is  their  terrestrial  paradise.  They 
pass  the  entire  day  there,  breakfast,  dine  and  sup  in 
the  outer  apartments,  and  seem  as  happy  as  possible. 
They  have  plenty  of  looking-glasses  and  sugar-plums, 
and  gossip  to  their  heart’s  content. 

A Constantinople  man  of  quality  is  a slow-paced 
biped  of  a grave  aspect  and  haughty  carriage,  with  an 
, indolent  air  and  a shuffling  gait.  He  wears  his  turban 


TURKEY. 


221 


over  his  right  eye,  carries  a nosegay  in  his  bosom, 
and  is  generally  distinguished  from  the  million  by  the 
magnitude  of  his  trousers.  He  sits  for  hours  smoking 
his  chibouque^  wrapped  in  a reverie,  the  delight  of 
which  consists  in  the  absence  of  thought.  A recent 
traveller  observes,  “ I have  asked  Turks  repeatedly 
what  they  have  been  thinking  of  during  their  smoking- 
trance,  and  they  reply,  ‘ Of  nothing.’  I could  not 
remind  them  of  a single  idea  having  occupied  their 
minds  ; and  in  the  consideration  of  the  Turkish  char- 
acter, there  is  no  more  curious  circumstance  connected 
with  their  moral  condition.”  The  reverie  consequent 
upon  the  indulgence  of  the  pipe  differs  from  that  pro- 
duced by  opium : the  pleasure  of  the  former  consists 
in  a temporary  annihilation  of  thought ; that  of  the 
latter,  in  exciting  a rapid  succession  of  delectable 
ideas. 

Another  recent  traveller  affords  us  the  following 
sketch ; “ Having  just  landed  at  Constantinople,  and 
being  utterly  unacquainted  with  the  Turkish  language, 
we  entered  the  first  cafe  we  encountered,  with  our  inter- 
preter. Two  venerable-looking  Turks  were  squatted 
on  a sofa  smoking  their  long  pipes,  and  exchanging, 
from  time  to  time,  words  uttered  with  the  greatest 
solemnity.  The  nobleness  of  their  appearance  and 
gravity  of  their  deportment  immediately  attracted  our 
attention,  and  our  curiosity  was  so  excited  that  we 
asked  our  interpreter  to  tell  us  what  was  the  subject 
of  their  conversation.  He  laughed  at  our  request, 
but,  after  being  several  times  pressed,  said  smilingly, 

“ Well!  well!  I will  give  you  a literal  translation  of 
their  conversation.  The  older  Turk,  with  the  green 
19  ♦ 


222 


TURKEY. 


turban,  is  an  emir,  that  is  tc  say,  a relation  of  the 
Prophet ; and  the  one  opposite  to  you  is  one  of  the 
magistrates. 

“ Effendi,”  said  the  emir,  “ fish  has  been  very 
dear  for  several  days.” 

“ You  are  right,”  replied  the  magistrate. 

“ Effendi,”  said  the  relation  of  the  Prophet,  “ why 
has  the  fish  been  so  dear  lately  ? ” 

“ I don’t  know  exactly ; perhaps  the  weather  has 
been  unfavorable.” 

“ Would  you  believe  that  I paid  six  piastres  for 
a fish  that  I could  have  had  the  day  before  for  one  ? ” 

“ And  I,  alas  ! gave  seven.” 

“ The  rest  of  the  dialogue  was  of  a similar  nature. 
Before  we  left  Constantinople,  we  had  every  reason  to 
believe  that  our  interpreter  had  given  us  a literal 
translation,  although  it  astonished  us  for  the  time.” 

The  Turkish  grandee  sometimes  relaxes  from  the 
fatigues  of  his  dignity.  He  perambulates  the  streets 
with  an  amber  rosary  dangling  from  his  wrist,  looking 
neither  to  the  right  nor  left ; even  a dead  corpse,  or 
the  head  of  a slaughtered  Greek,  cannot  divert  his 
attention.  He  shuffles  aside  the  unwary  Frank  whom 
he  meets ; for  it  is  too  troublesome  to  kick  him.  He 
reaches  the  coffee-house  before  noon ; here  an  abject 
Christian  salaams  him  to  the  earth,  spreads  the  newest 
mat  for  the  Effendi,  presents  the  richest  cup,  and 
cringes  by  his  side  to  kiss  the  hem  of  his  garment,  or 
at  least  his  hand.  The  coffee,  perad venture,  is  not 
good;  the  Effendi  storms;  the  poor  Armenian  trem- 
bles ; he  swears  by  his  father’s  beard  that  he  made 
the  very  best ; in  all  probability  he  gets  the  cup  thrown 


TURKEY. 


223 


at  his  head,  and  a score  of  maledictions,  not  on  him- 
self, but  on  his  mother.  A friend  of  the  EfTendi  enters, 
and  after  ten  minutes’  silence  they  salute  and  ex- 
change salaams,  A conversation  is  carried  on  in  mono- 
syllables at  long  intervals.  The  grandee  exhibits  an 
English  penknife  ; his  friend  examines  it,  back  and 
blade,  smokes  another  pipe,  and  exclaims,  “ God  is 
great.”  Pistols  are  next  produced  ; their  value  is  an 
exhaustless  theme.  A learned  Ulema  at  length  talks 
of  astronomy  and  politics ; how  the  sun  shines  in  the 
east  and  in  the  west,  and  wherever  he  shines,  how  he 
beams  on  a land  of  Mussulmans  ; — how  all  the  kings 
of  Europe  pay  tribute  to  the  Sultan  ; — how  the  English 
infidels  are  greater  than  the  French  infidels,  because 
they  make  better  pistols  and  penknives  ; — how  the 
Christian  ambassadors  come  like  dogs  to  the  footstool 
of  the  Sultan  to  feed  on  his  imperial  bounty,  &c. 
After  this,  the  Effendi  takes  his  leave  with  the  pious 
ejaculation  of  “ Mashalla  ! — how  wonderful  is  God.” 

Intoxication  with  opium  is  the  prominent  vice  of  the 
Turks.  The  cofTee-houses,  where  the  Tkeriokis,  or 
opium-eaters  of  Constantinople  assemble,  are  situated 
in  a large  square  ; and  on  a bench  outside  the  door 
they  await  the  wished-for  reveries  which  present  to 
their  glowing  imaginations  the  forms  of  the  celestial 
houris,  and  the  enjoyments  of  their  own  paradise  in 
all  its  voluptuousness.  The  dose  of  opium  varies 
from  three  grains  to  a drachm  : the  effect  is  produced 
in  two  hours,  and  lasts  four  or  five.  When  completely 
^under  its  influence,  the  Theriokis  talk  incoherently  , 
their  gestures  are  frightful ; their  features  are  flushed , 
their  eyes  have  an  unnatural  brilliancy,  and  the  ex- 


224 


TURKEY. 


pression  of  their  countenances  is  horribly  wild.  Some 
of  them  fee]  a high  poetical  inspiration,  and  compose 
excellent  verses  : others  address  the  bystanders  in  the 
most  eloquent  discourses,  imagining  themselves  to  be 
emperors  and  kings,  and  to  have  all  the  harems  in  the 
world  at  their  command.  The  pleasure  of  this  condi- 
tion seems  to  depend  on  a universal  expansion  of  mind 
and  matter.  The  faculties  appear  enlarged,  every- 
thing that  is  looked  upon  is  apparently  increased  in 
volume ; every  external  object  is  magnified  into  an 
image  of  pleasure.  In  walking,  one  is  hardly  sensible 
of  the  feet’s  touching  the  ground ; he  seems  to  be  slid- 
ing along  impelled  by  some  invisible  agent,  and  feels 
as  if  his  blood  were  composed  of  some  etherial  fluid 
which  renders  his  body  lighter  than  air.  The  debility, 
both  moral  and  physical,  which  fallows  this  excite- 
ment, is  terrible.  The  appetite  is  soon  destroyed, 
every  fibre  in  the  body  trembles,  the  nerves  of  the  neck 
become  affected,  the  muscles  grow  rigid,  and  the  limbs 
distorted.  The  sufferers,  however,  cannot  abandon  the 
custom ; they  are  miserable  till  the  hoar  arrives  for 
taking  their  daily  dose,  and  when  its  delightful  influ- 
ence begins,  they  are  once  more  all  fire  and  animation. 
Their  lives  are  short : an  opium-eater  rarely  lives 
beyond  thirty  years,  if  he  begins  the  practice  early. 

The  Turks  repeat  five  prayers  daily  : one  before 
sunrise,  one  at  dawn,  one  at  noon,  one  at  four  in  the 
afternoon,  and  one  at  sunset.  Their  posture  during 
prayer  is  erect  with  their  arms  folded  over  the  breast, 
and  apparently  in  serious  contemplation  of  the  duty 
they  are  performing  Their  faces  are  turned  to  the 
east ; nothing  is  heard  but  a short  ejaculation  as  they 


TURKEY. 


225 


place  themselves  cross-legged  for  a few  minutes-  and 
then  salute  the  ground  with  their  foreheads : this 
prostration  occurs  nine  times.  There  are  no  bells  in 
the  mosques ; the  muezzin  ascends  the  minaret  five 
times  a day  and  calls  the  faithful  to  prayer ; he  tells 
them  at  daybreak  that  prayer  is  better  than  sleep,  and 
at  dinner  hour  that  prayer  is  better  than  food.  The 
Dervishes  correspond  to  the  monks  of  Italy : they  are 


Dervishes  dancing, 

lazy  and  uncleanly,  professing  to  live  a life  of  abstb 
nence,  but  indulging  freely  in  rum  and  opium.  The 


226 


TURKEY. 


whirling  Dervishes  spin  round  and  round  in  acts  of 
devotion,  with  such  velocity  that  they  sometimes  drop 
to  the  ground,  and  there  in  a state  of  intoxication  they 
pretend  to  have  celestial  visions,  and  edify  the  sur- 
rounding multitude  with  marvellous  descriptions,  not 
unlike  those  which  Don  Quixote  gave  of  what  he  saw 
in  the  cave  of  Montesinos.  There  is  a sect  called 
howling  Dervishes,”  who  repeat  for  hours  the  ninety- 
nine  names  of  God.  They  hold  red-hot  irons  between 
their  teeth,  and  apparently  thrust  daggers  into  their 
arms  and  necks.  Their  pious  fury  endures  for  about 
half  an  hour,  and  he  who  pretends  to  thrust  the  blade 
deepest  into  his  flesh  is  reckoned  the  greatest  saint, 
and  receives  the  highest  applause.  Dr.  Clarke  con- 
siders their  practices  to  be  a remnant  of  the  heathen 
ceremonies  of  the  priests  of  Baal.  They  treat  the 
Franks  with  great  civility,  and  sometimes  confess  to 
them  that  they  live  on  the  credulity  of  fools. 

In  the  Mahometan  religion,  nothing  is  inculcated 
more  strictly  than  the  observance  of  the  fast  of  the 
Ramazan,  which  continues  during  a whole  lunar 
month.  From  sunrise  to  sunset,  the  table,  the  pipe 
and  the  harem  are  forbidden.  It  is  not  permitted  to 
taste  a morsel  of  food  nor  a drop  of  water,  all  day 
long.  After  this  comes  the  great  feast  of  the  Bairam^ 
a festival  corresponding  to  Easter.  This  is  a time  of 
universal  rejoicing;  every  one  is  dressed  in  his  richest 
apparel.  Even  the  ladies  are  permitted  to  visit  their 
friends,  and  to  receive  the  visits  of  their  nearest  male 
relations,  namely,  their  fathers,  brothers  and  uncles  ; 
but  they  are  allowed  this  privilege  at  no  other  period, 
and  it  is,  in  general,  short  and  ceremonious. 


TURKEY. 


227 


The  sixth  commandment,  that  which  enjoins  the 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  is  of  such  vital  importance  to  all 
Mussulmans,  that  no  one  is  exempt  from  its  obligations 
except  the  Sultan,  and  he  must  perform  it  by  proxy. 
After  the  Ramazan  feast  the  caravans  set  out  for  the 
Holy  City.  In  different  years  the  number  of  pilgrims 
varies  from  60,000  to  100,000,  and  the  number  of 
camels  from  80,000  to  150,000.  The  pilgrim  or  hadgi 
walks  seven  times  round  the  House  of  Abraham,  as 
they  call  the  chief  mosque  in  Mecca,  kisses  a black 
stone  which  they  pretend  fell  white  from  heaven, 
plunges  into  the  well  Zem-zen  and  takes  a draught  of 
its  fetid  water.  For  this,  infatuated  multitudes  tra- 
verse the  burning  deserts  of  Arabia,  and  hundreds  of 
them  annually  leave  their  bones  to  bleach  in  the  wide 
wilderness.  As  no  man  has  any  honor  till  he  becomes 
a hadgi,  every  one  endeavors  to  visit  the  Holy  City, 
whatever  may  be  his  circumstances. 

On  the  birth  of  a child,  the  father  himself  gives  the 
name,  putting  at  the  same  time  a grain  of  salt  into  its 
mouth.  The  dead  are  perfumed  with  incense,  and 
buried  in  a cloth,  open  at  the  top  and  bottom,  that  the 
deceased  may  be  able  to  sit  up  and  answer  the  ques- 
tions of  the  angels  of  death.  The  women  howl  over 
the  dead  as  at  an  Irish  wake.  No  sooner  is  the  breath 
out  of  a man’s  body  than  all  the  females  in  the  neigh- 
borhood resort  to  the  house  and  howl  for  a quarter 
of  an  hour.  When  the  corpse  is  laid  in  the  grave,  the 
Koran  says  it  is  visited  by  two  black  angels  of  a terrible 
appearance : these  make  the  dead  person  sit  upright, 
and  examine  him  concerning  his  faith  in  the  Koran; 
if  he  answers  rightly,  his  body  is  refreshed  witli  the 


228 


TURKEY. 


air  of  Paradise,  but  if  otherwise,  they  beat  him  on  the 
temples  with  iron  maces,  and  make  him  roar  with 
anguish.  The  burial  grounds  are  near  the  highways, 
and  stones  are  placed  at  the  heads  of  the  graves,  with 
carved  turbans  denoting  the  sex.  As  they  never 
encroach  upon  a former  grave,  the  cemeteries  are  very 
extensive. 

The  Turk,  stretched  at  his  ease  in  his  pavilion  on 
the  banks  of  the  Bosphorus,  glides  down  the  stream 
of  existence  without  reflection  on  the  past,  and  with- 
out anxiety  for  the  future.  His  life  is  one  continued 
and  unvaried  reverie.  To  his  imagination  the  whole 
universe  appears  occupied  in  procuring  him  pleasure. 
The  luxuriance  of  nature,  and  the  labors  of  a tributary 
people  spread  out  before  him  whatever  can  excite  or 
gratify  the  senses ; and  every  wind  wafts  to  him  the 
productions  of  the  world,  enriched  by  the  arts  and 
improved  by  the  taste  of  industrious  Europeans. 
The  luxuries  of  a Turkish  life  would  sink,  however, 
in  the  estimation  of  most  people,  on  a comparison  with 
the  artificial  enjoyments  of  Europe.  The  houses  of 
the  Turks  are  built  in  contempt  of  the  rules  of  archi- 
tecture, their  gardens  are  laid  out  without  order,  and 
with  little  taste ; their  furniture  is  simple,  and  suited 
rather  to  the  habits  of  a military  or  vagrant  people 
than  to  the  usages  of  settled  life ; their  meals  are  fru- 
gal and  generally  unenlivened  either  by  wine  or  con- 
versation. Every  custom  invites  to  repose,  and  every 
object  inspires  an  indolent  voluptuousness.  Their 
delight  is  to  recline  on  soft  verdure  under  the 
shade  of  trees,  and  to  muse  without  fixing  their 
attention,  lulled  by  the  trickling  of  a fountain  or  the 


TURKEY. 


229 


iPMrmuring  uf  a rivulet,  and  inhaling  through  their 
pipe  a gently  inebriating  vapor.  Such  pleasures,  the 
highest  that  the  rich  can  enjoy,  are  equally  within  the 
reach  of  the  artizan  or  the  peasant. 

The  Turks,  notwithstanding,  have  some  points  of 
character  which  indicate  the  gentle  feelings  of  hu- 
manity lurking  in  the  heart.  The  same  species  of 
benevolence  which  restrains  the  Hindoo  from  depriv- 
ing animals  of  life,  appears  to  exist  among  them.  In 
the  Turkish  towns,  dogs  and  cats  enjoy  an  abundance 
which  the  beggars  of  Christendom  might  envy. 
Flocks  of  pigeons  traversing  the  air  light  on  vessels 
loaded  with  grain  to  levy  a tribute  which  is  seldom 
denied  them.  Water  fowl  swarm  on  the  banks  of  the 
Bosphorus,  and  their  nests  are  respected  even  by  chil- 
dren. This  benevolence  is  extended  even  to  trees. 
A useful  and  commendable  prejudice  prevents  the 
most  avaricious  proprietor  from  depriving  the  village 
or  the  field  of  their  pleasing  and  salubrious  shade. 
The  rich  take  a pride  in  adorning  the  public  walks 
with  fountains  and  seats,  two  things  which  are  ren- 
dered necessary  by  the  frequent  ablutions  and  prayers 
enjoined  by  their  religion. 

The  khans,  or  caravanserais,  are  public  inns,  in 
which  travellers  and  working  people  are  lodged  with- 
out payment.  In  the  houses  of  the  Turks  in  various 
parts  of  the  empire,  several  travellers  concur  in  re- 
marking purity  of  manners,  domestic  happiness,  and  a 
patriarchal  hospitality.  But  the  extreme  pride  of  the 
Turks,  rendered  more  offensive  by  the  harshness  cf 
their  manners,  has  so  wounded  the  feelings  of  most 
travellers,  that  they  have  seen  nothing  in  the  whole 
o XIX. — 20 


230 


TURKEY. 


race  except  a ferocity,  an  ignorance,  and  a grossness, 
which  are  proof  against  all  the  means  of  civilization. 


A Caravansera. 


GEKMANY 


Vim  on  the  Danube 


The  state  of  society  in  Germany  exhibits  two  very 
distinct  portions,  not  running  into  or  blending  with 
each  other,  as  in  most  of  the  other  civilized  modern 
states.  The  class  of  the  population  which  are  of 
noble  birth,  hold  themselves  separated  by  the  most 
marked  and  decided  line  from  the  body  of  the  nation. 
They  have  divided  themselves  into  high  and  low  nobil- 


232 


GERMANY. 


ity.  The  former  are  those  who  either  possess  sovereign 
sway  or  are  descended  from  those  who  once  did,  and 
are  called  ‘ mediatized  ’ princes.  The  low  or  feudato- 
ry nobles  are  those  who  cannot  boast  that  any  sovereign 
power  ever  resided  in  their  families.  There  is  anoth- 
er distinction,  that  of  the  old  nobility,  who  must  be  able 
to  count  a line  of  sixteen  noble  ancestors,  and  that  of  the 
young  or  short  nobility.  The  cities  too,  especially 
those  that  once  ranked  either  as  Hanse  Towns  or  as 
Imperial  cities,  contain  a class  enjoying  hereditary 
distinction  as  patricians  or  city  nobles.  The  petty 
princes  and  great  nobles  of  Germany  thus  retain 
many  of  the  feudal  habits,  and  their  courts  display 
rather  rude  baronial  pride,  and  forms  of  empty  pomp,, 
than  the  polish  and  elegance  of  the  great  European 
courts.  The  character  of  the  Germans  is  strongly 
military,  a quality  partly  derived  from  their  feudal 
ancestors,  and  partly  from  their  country  having  been  T 
the  theatre  of  nearly  all  the  great  wars  which  have  i| 
ravaged  Europe.  The  common  sounds  in  the  cities  fl 
of  Germany  are  the  clangor  of  military  bands,  the 
ringing  of  iron  boot-heels  and  the  measured  tread 
' of  stately  soldiers.  The  military  character  is  said  to 
rank  higher  here  than  in  any  other  nation. 

The  dress  of  the  Germans  has  now  few  peculiarities 
to  distinguish  it  from  that  which  has  become  general 
over  civilized  Europe.  The  higher  classes  follow 
English  and  French  fashions.  The  lower  classes  dress 
in  a manner  convenient  for  their  occupations.  Caps  : 
are  nearly  universal  with  the  men ; they  are  made  of 
cloth,  with  low  crowns,  two  or  three  inches  only  in 
height,  and  have  a small  shade  for  the  eyes.  The 


GERMANY. 


233 


female  peasants  and  domestics  wear  on  holidays,  gaudy 
caps  of  gold  stuffs,  and  those  who  are  too  poor  to 
wear  these,  adorn  their  heads  and  arms  with  a few 
flowers.  The  pomp  and  array  among  the  Austrian 
and  Hungarian  nobles,  and  the  blaze  of  jewels  which 
they  display,  dazzle  the  other  people  of  Europe. 

The  Germans  eat  more  than  their  neighbors  of  the 
South  of  Europe,  who  stigmatize  them  as  gluttons. 
Their  food  is  of  a plain,  substantial  kind,  and  the  cook- 
ery is  inferior  to  the  French.  They  have  some  hard 
and  harsh  articles  which  are  national  favorites,  such  as 
ham,  sausage,  raw  herring,  sour  krout  and  acid  wine. 
They  are  much  addicted  to  the  use  of  intoxicating 
liquors,  and  this  was  a characteristic  of  the  nation  in 
ancient  times.  Great  quantities  of  ale,  beer  and  por- 
ter are  consumed,  particularly  in  the  north,  where 
alehouses  are  abundant : the  sign  over  many  of  the 
doors  is  ‘‘Welcome,  friend,”  and  few  coachmen  pass 
without  taking  a ‘ schnapp^^  or  a dram.  The  Germans 
are  inveterate  smokers.  The  pipe  is  ever  at  hand, 
and  seldom  out  of  use ; the  bowls  are  commonly  of 
porcelain,  large  and  ornamented  with  views  of  Ger- 
man scenery.  The  atmosphere  of  an  alehouse  is  sp 
filled  with  the  smoke  of  numerous  pipes,  that  the  smok- 
ers are  hardly  visible. 

The  students  at  the  German  universities  have  many 
peculiarities.  Their  dress  is  affectedly  uncouth,  and  is 
worn  with  negligence.  The  coat  is  shapeless  : the 
hair  is  worn  long,  and  a wide  shirt-collar  is  turned 
over  the  shoulders.  Boots  are  worn,  with  spurs  of 
enormous  size.  One  or  more  rings,  as  large  as  watch 
seals,  generally  adorn  the  fingers,  and  no  student  in  full 


234  GERMANY. 

dress  is  without  a ruffle  of  unreasonable  length,  though 
many  have  no  shirts.  A pipe,  four  or  five  feet  long> 
completes  the  equipment.  The  moustache  is  permit- 
ted to  grow  several  inches  long  and  is  twisted  to  a 
point.  The  students  call  themselves  “ Burschen  ” or 
“ young  fellows,”  and  the  town’s  people  they  call  Phil- 
istines. In  the  north  they  are  great  consumers  of 
beer ; in  the  south,  they  drink  much  wine.  In  their 
evening  potations  each  one  has  several  tankards,  be- 
fore him,  sometimes  as  many  as  eight  or  nine,  so  that 
a line  of  students  on  each  side  of  a table  may  look 
down  upon  eighteen  rows  of  tankards. 

The  students  unite  in  clubs  called  Landsmannschaf- 
which  are  composed  of  individuals  of  the  same 
county  or  district,  and  their  club  is  generally  indicated 
by  the  color  or  trimming  of  the  cap.  They  pay  a 
few  dollars  on  entering,  for  the  expenses  of  the  club, 
though  the  money  thus  raised  is  generally  applied  to 
the  purpose  of  procuring  duelling  apparatus,  and  each 
Landsmannschaft  has  a complete  armory.  Duelling 
may  be  said  to  be  universal : of  course  it  is  not  attend- 
.<,ed  with  much  peril.  It  is  an  example  of  moderation 
to  have  passed  several  years  at  a university  without 
fighting.  The  party  challenged  has  not  the  privilege 
of  choosing  his  weapons  ; he  must  fight  according  to 
the  established  mode.  The  weapon  is  a straight 
sword  about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a double  edge 
near  the  point.  The  combats  are  generally  performed 
in  rooms,  and  fevv^  of  them  are  fatal.  Several  friends 
and  a surgeon  are  present,  with  the  two  seconds  and 
an  umpire  chosen  by  them.  The  hands  and  arms  are 
covered  with  thick  gloves,  and  a stufifed  leathern 


GERMANY. 


235 


breastplate  completely  protects  the  body  ; the  face  only 
is  exposed.  For  a trifling  offence  twelve  blows  are 
struck,  and  if  no  blood  be  drawn,  the  parties  shake 
hands  and  separate.  For  a greater  offence,  blood 
must  be  drawn.  On  its  first  appearance  the  umpire 
orders  a cessation  of  hostilities  and  the  surgeon  exam- 
ines the  wound.  If  it  be  two  inches  in  length  and 
opens  of  itself  a quarter  of  an  inch,  enough  has  been 
done  for  glory  and  the  parties  are  reconciled.  The 
seconds  are  dressed  like  the  combatants ; they  stand 
by  the  side  of  their  principals  and  are  permitted  to 
ward  off  the  blows.  The  duellists  sometimes  lose  an 
eye  or  a nose ; many  have  scars  on  their  faces,  and 
some  are  miserably  hacked.  The  Landsmannschaften 
are  the  nurseries  of  duelling,  each  club  being  exceed- 
ingly tenacious  of  its  own  dignity.  Fencing,  very 
improperly,  makes  a part  of  the  regular  university  in- 
struction. All  the  details  of  the  duel  are  fixed  in  the 
Comment  or  Burschen  Pandects. 

The  German  character,  it  must  be  remembered,  is 
somewhat  various  in  the  different  kingdoms  and  states, 
and  it  has  been  said  that  it  is  as  much  parcelled  out 
as  the  land,  though  there  are  certain  traits  that  run 
through  the  whole.  The  difference  is  greatest  between 
the  north  and  south,  and  between  the  literary  and  the 
commercial  cities.  The  Germans  of  the  south  are,  in 
general,  less  favorably  distinguished  for  morality  and 
intelligence  than  those  of  the  north,  and  much  less 
has  been  done  in  the  former  part  of  the  country  to- 
wards enlightening  the  great  mass  of  the  people  ; yet 
there  are  many  exceptions  to  this  remark.  In  many 
quarters  of  the  country,  the  moral  condition  of  the 


236 


GERMANY 


peasantry  is  in  the  lowest  state : ignorant,  supersti- 
tious, dull,  indolent,  and  dirty  in  their  habits,  and 
slovenly  and  unthrifty  in  their  mode  of  cultivation, 
they  still  bear  the  traces  of  their  long  servitude. 

With  a few  exceptions,  Germany  is  not  a country 
remarkable  for  the  elegancies  of  domestic  life.  Its 
very  palaces  are  of  simple  decoration  : its  luxuries  of 
a home-bred  and  inartificial  kind,  and  its  tastes  not  of 
the  most  exalted  rank.  There  is  still  a shade  of  the 
Gothic  in  the  habits  and  opinions  of  these  people,  who 
seem  to  cultivate  the  subtile  refinements  of  the  mind 
in  preference  to  the  more  obvious  and  material  enjoy- 
ments which  address  themselves  to  the  senses.  They 
are  hardy,  brave,  and  attached  to  their  country,  and 
are  distinguished  for  great  individual  and  personal 
independence.  Although  they  are  quarrelsome,  they 
seldom  come  to  blows,  for  a blow  is  an  indignity  that 
nothing  but  the  offender’s  blood  can  atone  for,  and  a 
man  in  common  life  would  appeal  to  arms  to  avenge 
it.  Hard  words  are  applied  in  profusion,  and  to  scold 
is  a common  way  of  quarrelling. 

Many  of  the  amusements,  are  those  which  are 
common  in  England  and  France.  The  favorite  active 
sport  is  the  chase  of  the  wild  boar,  and  though  the 
game  privileges  may  be,  as  in  England,  distinct  from 
the  soil,  yet  all  classes  are  permitted  to  attend  the 
Prince  in  the  chase,  but  not  otherwise  to  engage  in 
the  amusement.  Hares  are  exceedingly  numerous,  and 
they  are  hunted,  not  with  greyhounds,  but  with  pea- 
sants ; these  form  a large  circle,  and  with  great  vocif- 
eration, close  by  degrees  upon  a centre,  driving  the 
hares  before  them.  The  hunters  shoot  them  down  in 


GERMANY.  237 

great  numbers,  and  a random  sjiot  sometimes  hits  one 
of  those  who  act  as  the  pack. 

Dancing  is  a favorite  amusement,  and  it  is  pursued 
with  more  enthusiasm  than  in  France.  The  waltz  is 
the  national  dance,  and  it  is  introduced  into  most  of 
the  foreign  figures  that  prevail  in  Germany.  F athers 
and  sons  are  seen  in  the  same  set : all  classes  partici- 
pate in  this  amusement,  except  those  which  have  the 
dignity  of  royalty  to  support.  Eoyal  personages  only 
polonaise,  in  the  light,  airy  step  between  a dance  and  a 
walk. 

The  Germans  of  both  town  and  country,  the  soldiers 
and  laborers,  are  all  acquainted  with  music.  Almost 
everywhere  upon  market  days,  they  have  players  on 
wind-instruments  placed  in  the  balcony  of  the  town- 
house,  which  overlooks  the  public  square.  The  schol- 
ars walk  through  the  streets  singing  psalms  in  chorus. 
Often  when  the  traveller  enters  a small  cottage  black- 
ened by  tobacco-smoke,  he  finds  the  master  or  the 
mistress  playing  voluntaries  upon  a harpsichord.  The 
poor  Bohemians,  as  they  wander,  followed  by  their 
wives  and  children,  carry  on  their  backs  a clumsy  harp, 
made  of  common  wood,  from  which  they  draw  harmo- 
nious music.  They  play  upon  it  while  they  rest  at 
the  foot  of  a tree  on  the  high  road,  or  near  the  post- 
houses,  endeavoring  to  awaken  the  attention  of  trav- 
ellers to  the  ambulatory  concert  of  the  little  wandering 
family.  In  Austria,  the  flocks  are  kept  by  shepherds, 
^\^o  play  charming  airs  on  instruments  at  once  simple 
and  sonorous.  Instrumental  music  is  as  generally 
cultivated  throughout  Germany  as  is  vocal  music  in 
Italy. 


238 


GERMANY. 


The  love  of  title  is  universal  among  the  Germans. 
Their  complaisance  in  addressing  each  other  in  their 
billets  and  letters  is  to  us  extremely  ludicrous.  The 
titles  with  which  an  Italian  addresses  his  correspond- 
ent are  sufficiently  pompous  to  a plain  republican,  but 
before  the  superscription  of  a German  letter  he  stands 
confounded.  Not  to  speak  of  the  interminably  long 
titles  bestowed  upon  those  who  have  any  pretension  to 
rank,  the  plainest  citizen  is  addressed  in  lofty  style. 
Some  must  be  called  High  born,  others  High-well 
born,  others  High-nobly  born.  If  you  want  a suit  of 
clothes,  you  must  write  to  the  tailor,  addressing  him 
as  the  High-nobly  born  Mr.  Snip,  Tailor.  Were  this 
title  omitted,  and  Mr.  Snip  a tailor  of  any  reputation,  it 
is  ten  to  one,  you  would  not  get  your  clothes  of  him. 
In  the  German  language,  there  is  a feminine  substan- 
tive corresponding  to  every  masculine  title  ; and  when 
they  address  each  other,  they  not  only  give  the  hus- 
band his  title,  but  also  confer  it  upon  his  wife,  as  the 
Lady  Generaless,  the  Lady  Professoress,  the  Lady 
Counselloress,  &c.  The  titles  and  honorary  epithets 
are  so  numerous,  that  it  takes  months  to  learn  them, 
and  this  is  a very  serious  embarrassment  to  a stranger 
in  his  intercourse  with  the  German  society. 

Previous  to  a marriage,  the  engagement  between 
the  parties  is  published  in  a newspaper.  When  a 
married  couple  leave  the  city  to  reside  at  a distance, 
they  not  only  take  leave  of  their* friends  in  person,  but 
on  the  day  of  departure,  they  publish  in  the  Gazette 
an  advertisement  in  the  following  words,  to  which  they 
affix  their  signatures : — ‘‘  On  our  marriage,  which 
took  place  this  day,  we  commend  ourselves  respect- 


GERMANY. 


239 


fully  to  our  friends  and  relations.  As  we  are  on  the 
point  of  departure  for  'Kdnigsberg,  we  wish  them,  from 
our  hearts,  prosperity,”  &c.  In  the  north  of  Germany, 
when  a person  is  sick,  the  friends  of  the  family  call 
and  ring  at  the  door.  On  entering,  they  find  in  the 
parlor  a book  lying  on  the  table,  in  which,  every 
morning  and  evening,  is  written  the  state  of  the 
patient’s:  health,  with  all  the  particulars  which  would 
interest  the  inquirers.  Under  this  morning  and  even- 
ing bulletin,  the  visiters  write  their  names,  to  apprize 
the  family  of  their  sympathy  ; they  never  see  the 
members  of  it,  unless  they  have  some  other  business 
than  inquiring  after  the  state  of  the  patient. 

The  long  peace  since  1815  has  effected  wonders  in 
making  the  nations  of  Europe  better  acquainted  with 
each  other,  and  will  destroy  a thousand  petty  pre- 
judices, and  awaken  generous  and  useful  sympathies. 
In  many  ways,  this  work  is  silently  going  on,  by  prints 
and  engravings,  descriptions  and  anecdotes  in  news- 
papers, small  articles  of  cheap  luxury — nay,  Warren’s 
blacking  contributes  its  part : you  may  buy  a bottle, 
with  the  label  at  least,  in  any  large  city  in  Europe. 
But  there  is  one  remarkable  triumph  which,  during 
this  period  of  tranquillity,  has  been  achieved  by  genius. 
Sir  Walter  Scott  has  made  a moral  conquest  of  Ger- 
many. There  is  hardly  a bookseller’s  shop  where 
you  may  not  find  his  works  for  sale,  and  vast  numbers 
of  the  people  have  learned  the  English  language  solely 
for  the  pleasure  of  reading  the  Waverley  novels  in  the 
original. 

The  coffee-house  aspect  of  Germany  is  in  general 
idle  and  profligate ; but  the  traveller  would  be  deceived 


240 


GERMANY. 


who  should  judge  of  the  private  life  of  the  Ger- 
mans from  that  peculiar  class  of  persons  who  form,  as 
it  were,  a race  of  themselves,  and  are  found  floating 
on  the  surface  of  society,  all  over  that  extensive  coun- 
try. Vast  numbers  of  men  in  Germany  seem  to  live 
only  among  cards  and  billiard  balls,  a mark,  and  one 
of  the  worst,  which  a very  long  war  and  long  inter- 
course with  the  French  armies  have  left  behind.  A 
great  number  of  these  are  unemployed  military  men, 
of  originally  idle  and  dissipated  habits ; others  are  of 
a class  which  made  money  enough  during  the  war,  in 
their  trades  and  occupations,  to  put  on  the  coats,  with- 
out the  character,  of  gentlemen,  and  who  live  loosely 
about  at  hotels  and  restaurateurs,  where  they  are  little 
known,  as  to  their  early  history,  but  welcome  for  what 
they  spend. 

The  attention  which  has  been  paid  to  popular  edu- 
cation in  Prussia,  within  the  last  twenty  years,  has 
excited  the  admiration  of  Europe,  and  several  of  the 
German  universities  have  acquired  great  celebrity  for 
their  success  in  teaching  the  higher  branches  of  know- 
ledge. The  intellectual  character  and  history  of  the 
great  Germanic  nation  is  a subject  of  the  deepest  inter- 
est, especially  at  the  present  moment,  when  every 
point  of  Christendom  is  beginning  to  feel  and  acknow- 
ledge their  power,  as  displayed  in  German  literature. 


HOLLAND. 


If  we  were  to  form  our  opinions  of  the  people  of 
this  country,  who  are  called  Dutch,  from  the  descrip- 
tions of  the  English,  we  should  do  them  injustice  ; for 
the  commercial  islanders  are  never  just  to  commercial 
competitors,  and  the  former  have  often  been  their  suc- 
cessful rivals. 

The  Dutch  are  distinguished  for  frugality,  neatness 
and  industry.  They  are  of  a cold,  phlegmatic  tem- 
perament, but  when  roused  to  passion,  have  as  much 
ardor  as  any  other  people.  They  are  grave  and  heavy 
in  appearance,  and  even  children  are  sedate.  They  are 
quiet  and  domestic,  and  enjoy  much  happiness  in  their 
family  circles.  Generally  they  prefer  gain  to  am- 
bition, but  in  their  dealings  they  are  honest.  The 
very  soil  they  till  is  a monument  of  their  perseverance 
and  industry.  They  live  in  a country  of  meadows, 
reclaimed  from  the  sea,  and  the  acquisition  is  main- 
tained only  by  continual  vigilance,  toil,  and  expense. 

In  Holland,  neatness  is  carried  to  excess.  In  their 
kitchens  every  metallic  utensil  is  as  bright  as  scouring 
can  make  it,  and  hung  upon  the  walls  for  show ; for 
neatness  here  is  ostentatious.  The  very  tongs  and 
shovel  are  “ hung  up  for  monuments.’’  The  principal 
utensils  are  of  pewter  and  copper.  One  room  in  the 
house  is  held  too  sacred  for  common  intrusion : and 
XIX. — 21 


242 


HOLLAND. 


the  neatness  and  arrangement  of  this,  is  a peculiar 
study.'  In  some  of  the  villages,  wagons  are  not  per- 
mitted to  pass  through  the  streets  ; the  front  walks  are 
scrubbed,  sanded,  and  marked  out  in  fanciful  figures. 
The  doors  and  porches  are  burnished,  and  the  trees 
that  shade  them,  do  not  escape  the  brush.  Little  ad- 
mittance is  granted  at  the  front  door ; and  even  at  the 
back  entrance,  a shoe  not  perfectly  satisfactory  to  the 
genius  of  the  place,  must  be  laid  aside,  and  a slipper, 
which  is  kept  for  this  purpose,  worn  during  the  visit. 

The  Dutch  are  profuse  of  time,  but  economical  of 
money.  All  their  conveyances  by  sea  or  land,  are 
slow,  and  “ Dutch  speed  ” has  grown  into  a saying  for 
tardiness.  Their  economy,  however,  is  not  to  be  dis- 
covered in  the  public  establishments,  which  are  on  a 
princely  scale. 

The  leading  peculiar  amusements  of  the  Dutch, 
are  skating,  and  dancing  at  the  licensed  houses, 
where  the  most  infamous  class  resort.  It  is  common 
for  staid  and  respectable  people,  in  family  groups,  to 
mingle  in  the  dance,  with  those  who  have  neither 
character  nor  modesty  to  lose.  Skating*  is  followed 
by  both  sexes : it  is  a graceful  and  healthful  amuse  * 
ment.  The  females  are  generally  dressed  in  white 
and  each  one  is  attended  by  a man  ; generally  they 
move  with  each  a hand  resting  on  the  other’s  shoul- 
der. They  step  simultaneously,  as  in  marching.  It 
is  an  interesting  spectacle,  to  see  many  females  with 
florid  complexions,  and  dressed  in  white,  moving 
swiftly  and  apparently  without  efibrt,  like  Camilla 
When  like  a passing  thought,  she  fled 
In  light,  away.^’ 


BELGIUM. 

The  Belgians  are  in  part  Flemings,  of  German 
origin,  and  in  part  Walloons,  of  the  Latin  race,  and 
closely  allied  to  the  French.  The  former  resemble 
the  Dutch  in  their  character  and  manners ; the  latter 
are  more  like  the  French.  The  language  of  the 
higher  classes  is  French;  the  lower  classes  speak 
Flemish,  a dialect  of  the  Low  German,  or  the  Wal- 
loon dialect,  a sort  of  rustic  French. 

The  modes  of  dress,  manner  of  building,  habits  of 
intercourse,  food  and  drink,  generally  present  little  that 
is  peculiar,  but  rather  exhibit  a mixture  of  French 
and  Dutch  customs.  A black  hooded  cloak  is  worn 
by  the  women  in  many  places,  a remnant  of  the  old 
Spanish  sway  over  these  provinces.  The  common 
people  generally  wear  wooden  shoes,  as  in  many  other 
parts  of  Europe.  Some  of  the  Belgian  towns  are  hardly 
rivalled  in  any  country  for  the  neatness  and  generally 
pleasing  effect  of  the  buildings.  As  to  the  character 
of  the  Belgians  it  may  be  observed,  that,  long  subject  to 
a foreign  yoke,  and  in  constant  intercourse  with 
foreigners,  they  seem  to  have  lost  in  a great  measure 
the  original  Flemish  traits,  and  to  present  no  very 
distinctive  features.  A strong  national  antipathy 
existed  between  the  Dutch  and  Belgians  while  they 
were  under  the  same  crown,  and  the  latter  attempted 


244 


BELGIUM. 


to  adopt  the  F rench  customs  and  manners ; yet,  on  the 
wnole,  they  have  a greater  resemblance  to  their  north- 
ern than  their  southern  neighbors.  The  amusements 
are  much  like  those  of  Holland ; the  great  Flemish 
kermes  or  fairs,  though  no  longer  subservient  to  com- 
merce, exist  still  as  festivals,  at  which  there  is  a great 
display  of  humor  and  character,  such  as  we  find  hap- 
pily illusrated  in  the  works  of  the  Flemish  painters. 

The  fine  arts  were  cultivated  with  zeal  and  success 
in  the  Belgic  provinces,  during  the  days  of  their  opu- 
lence and  prosperity.  Wealthy  merchants  liberally 
patronized  the  arts  of  design;  and  the  gentry  and 
land-holders,  being  induced  by  the  constant  wars,  of 
which  the  Low  Countries  were  the  theatre,  to  live 
much  in  towns,  acquired  more  refined  tastes  than 
could  have  been  formed  in  a country  life.  Antwerp, 
during  its  prosperous  period,  became,  in  some  measure, 
a Belgic  Athens.  The  Flemish  school  of  painting, 
under  its  great  masters,  Rubens  and  Vandyke,  display- 
ed great  splendor  of  coloring,  grandeur  of  composition, 
and  force  of  expression,  although  it  never  reached  that 
grandeur  of  design  and  pure  taste  which  were  formed 
in  Italy. 

The  Belgians  are  mostly  Catholics,  the  number  of 
Protestants  not  exceeding  10,000.  The  Catholic  cler- 
gy have  shown  an  intolerant  spirit  here,  but  the  great 
possessions  of  the  church  have  been  forfeited,  and  the 
monasteries  suppressed ; only  a few  nunneries  being 
allowed  to  exist. 


DENMAEK. 


The  Danes,  like  most  of  the  northern  nations,  are 
fair  in  complexion,  of  middle  stature,  and  hardy  in 
constitution.  The  women  have  blue  eyes,  and  auburn 
hair,  and  many  of  them  are  beautiful.  There  is  a 
nobility,  which  though  reduced  from  its  ancient  splen- 
dor, contains  many  who  live  in  elegance,  if  not  in 
ostentation.  There  are  two  orders  of  knighthood. 
The  Germans  occupy  Holstein,  Lubec,  and  the  most 
of  Sleswic,  and  there  are  a few  Gypsies. 

The  women  of  the  middle  classes  are  very  fond  of 
show  in  their  dress,  which  is  composed  of  many  colors, 
red  being  the  most  prevalent.  In  summer  many  of  the 
people  retain  their  great-coats,  and  in  winter  they  as- 
sume furs.  The  French  fashions  are  common  in  the 
cities.  The  Danish  language  is  allied  to  the  Swedish 
Aiid.  Norwegian.  The  Frisish  is  used  in  some  of  the 
islands,  and  the  German  in  Holstein,  Lubec,  and  a 
part  of  Sleswic.  The  houses  in  the  cities  are  gene- 
rally of  brick ; in  the  country  they  are  of  wood  with 
piazzas  ; few  of  them  have  much  pretension  to  ele- 
gance. The  general  food  of  the  lower  class  is  oat- 
cake, rye-bread,  potatoes,  fish  and  cheese.  Much  beer 
and  spirits,  chiefly  brandy,  are  consumed,  and  the  use 
of  tobacco  is  general,  but  less  so  than  in  Germany. 
The  mode  of  travelling  is  not  so  convenient  as  further 

P 21* 


246 


DENMARK. 


south,  and  few  foreigners  visit  Denmark.  The  com- 
mon post  vehicles  do  not  exceed  four  or  five  miles  an 
hour. 

The  Danes  are  brave,  but  not  adventurous.  They 
would  do  more  for  defence  than  for  glory.  They  are 
less  cordial  than  the  Germans,  and  less  cheerful  than 
their  northern  neighbors.  They  are  faithful  and 
honest,  but  not  strongly  marked  with  national  pecu- 
liarities. They  are  addicted  to  the  use  of  spirituous 
liquors,  and  the  proverbial  expression  of  a “ drunken 
Dane  ” has  some  foundation  in  the  national  character. 
Cards  and  dancing  are  the  most  common  amusements* 
but  these  are  not  followed  with  much  spirit. 

There  are  several  universities,  and  every  town  has 
a primary  school ; most  of  these  are  on  the  Lancas- 
terian  plan.  There  is  a library  of  four  hundred  and 
ten  thousand  volumes  at  Copenhagen,  with  several 
learned  societies.  The  arts  are  not  in  a fiourishing 
state,  though  Thorwaldsen,  the  sculptor,  was  a native 
of  Denmark.  The  sciences  are  cultivated  with  suc- 
cess, but  the  literature  is  limited.  There  are  some 
good  popular  songs  and  tolerable  dramas.  The  gov- 
ernment is  despotic  in  form,  but  mild  in  its  adminis- 
tration. The  laws  are  equitable  and  well  administer- 
ed. The  religion  is  chiefiy  Lutheran,  and  the  church 
government  partakes  of  the  Episcopal  form. 


SWEDEN. 


The  Swedes  are  of  the  middle  size,  and  few  of  them 
are  corpulent.  They  have  ruddy  complexions,  and 
flaxen  hair,  though  the  women  often  have  auburn  hair 
and  blue  eyes.  The  females  are  distinguished  for 
beauty.  There  is  little  diversity  of  appearance  in  the 
Swedes ; and  they  seem  to  a foreigner,  rather  as 
members  of  the  same  family  than  natives  of  a large 
country.  All  have  a very  composed  demeanor.  There 
are  four  orders  in  the  state  : nobles,  clergy,  peasants 
and  burghers,  or  citizens  of  towns. 

The  Swedes  have  a national  dress,  established  by 
law,  about  sixty  years  ago.  The  females,  however, 
have  little  scruple  to  break  this  ordinance.  The  gen- 
eral color  is  black,  but  on  gala  days,  it  is  blue,  lined 
with  white.  The  dress  of  ladies  is  somewhat  like  the 
English,  except  in  the  sleeves,  which  are  Spanish. 
Veils  are  common.  The  coats  of  the  men  are  short 
and  close.  They  are  fastened  around  the  body  with 
a sash.  The  cloak  is  black,  but  lined  with  gayer 
colors.  Galoches^  or  outward  shoes,  are  worn  in  win- 
ter, and  a fur,  or  sheep*  skin  over  dress,  is  then  indis- 
pensable and  universal.  The  peasantry  in  Dalecarlia 
are  called  lohite  or  blacky  as  they  are  dressed  in  either 
color : and  almost  all  wear  one  or  the  other.  They 
wear  huge  shoes,  with  thick  wooden  soles,  and  a hat 


248 


SWEDEN. 


like  a Quaker’s.  Generally,  the  hats  are  each  decorated 
with  a feather,  and  no  gentleman  is  in  full  dress  without 
a sword.  The  Swedes,  for  the  most  part,  are  comfort- 
ably and  neatly  clad. 

The  dwellings,  except  at  Stockholm,  and  in  Scania, 
are  of  wood.  The  peasants  have  log  houses,  and  fill 
the  interstices  with  moss.  The  roof  is  covered  with 
birchen  bark  and  turf.  In  summer  the  floors  are  some- 
times strewed  with  odorous  twigs.  Many  of  the 
country-houses  are  of  several  stories,  and  make  a good 
appearance.  Some  of  them  are  so  constructed,  that 
they  may  be  taken  down  and  removed  in  a short  time. 
The  beds  of  the  common  people  are  placed  cne  above 
another,  on  shelves,  as  in  the  berths  of  a ship. 

The  roads  of  Sweden  are  hardly  inferior  to  those  of 
England,  and  the  facilities  for  travelling  are  better 
than  in  the  other  northern  countries.  The  roads  are 
kept  in  repair  by  the  peasants  ; each  family  of  which 
has  its  portion  marked  with  bounds.  The  inns  have 
few  comforts,  though  all  have  a “ traveller’s  room  ” 
with  a bed,  or  at  least,  a berth  of  boards.  The  horses 
are  small,  but  active  and  sure  footed.  They  go  at  full 
speed  down  the  steepest  and  largest  hills,  and  are  sel- 
dem  known  to  stumble,  though  in  the  busy  seasons, 
they  are  driven  by  bqys  or  women. 

The  Swedes  have  many  amiable  traits  in  their 
character,  though  they  do  not  lack  energy.  They  are 
kind,  cheerful  and  faithful.  They  love  their  country, 
and  are  much  attached  to  free  institutions,  and  prin- 
ciples of  equality.  In  this  and  in  other  respects,  they 
somewhat  resemble  the  Swiss.  The  mountains  of 
Dalecarlia  have  always  been  the  abode  of  freedom  and 


SWEDEN. 


249 


simplicity  of  character.  The  Swedes  are  gentle,  though 
brave  and  warlike  ; and  the  peasants  are  uncommonly 
civil  and  obliging.  The  people  are  hospitable  to  a 
great  degree,  and  the  character  of  a stranger  is  a ready 
passport  to  their  houses.  When  the  richer  families 
leave  their  country  residences,  a room  and  attendance 
are  still  appropriated  to  travellers,  who  receive  as  much 
care  as  if  the  master  were  present.  The  Swedes 
are  descended  from  the  hordes  that  overran  the  Roman 
empire,  and  they  are  no  less  brave  and  adventurous 
than  their  ancestors.  In  modern  times  they  have 
been  the  bulwark  of  the  Protestant  faith ; and  one  of 
their  sovereigns  has,  with  an  inconsiderable  army, 
conquered  armies  as  numerous  and  brave  as  the  north 
ever  sent  forth,  to  pillage  the  fertile  south. 

The  first  of  May  and  midsummer  day  are  celebrat- 
ed  with  general  joy.  On  the  latter  occasion  the  young 
men  and  women  dance  around  a pole  till  morning. 
Dancing  is  common,  and  all  classes  join  in  the  sport 
with  great  animation.  Cards  are  a general  amuse- 
ment, though  the  Swedes  are  not  addicted  to  gaming. 
All  ranks  play  games  at  cards,  the  most  common  of 
which  is  that  called  Boston.  It  is  said  (to  illustrate 
the  national  fondness  for  play)  that  a nobleman,  when 
his  dinner  hour  had  arrived  without  the  dinner,  went 
into  the  kitchen  to  learn  the  reason  of  the  delay,  when 
he  found  all  the  domestics  engrossed  in  a game.  He 
admitted  the  characteristic' excuse  that  the  game  was 
at  its  most  critical  point,  and  could  not  therefore  be 
deferred  even  for  dinner ; but  he  took  the  cook’s  hand, 
and  played  it,  while  that  domestic  performed  his  duty 


NORWAY. 


The  inhabitants  of  Norway  are  hardy  and  robust, 
and  the  women,  like  those  of  Sweden,  are  many  of 
them  beautiful.  The  dress  is  plain,  and  generally  of 
a stone  color,  with  white  metal  buttons  and  red  but- 
tonholes. Furs  are  much  worn  in  winter.  The  lan- 
guage has  an  affinity  with  the  Danish  and  Swedish 
The  usual  food  of  the  peasants  is  milk,  cheese  and 
fish.  Flesh  and  oat-bread,  made  hard  as  in  Sweden, 
are  more  rare.  In  times  of  scarcity  the  bark  of  fir 
trees  is  mixed  with  the  oatmeal.  A common  soup  is 
made  of  oatmeal  or  barley  meal,  seasoned  with  a 
pickled  herring  or  salted  mackerel.  The  Norwegians, 
like  the  Swedes,  are  much  addicted  to  the  use  of 
spirits,  though  without  suffering  the  injurious  effects 
produced  by  intemperance  in  warmer  climates.  The 
use  of  tobacco  is  general.  The  people  are  far  more 
sprightly  than  the  Danes,  and  it  would  not  be  easy  to 
find  a nation  more  cheerful  than  the  Norwegians. 
They  are  brave,  energetic,  and  patriotic.  The  pea- 
sants are  frank  and  hospitable,  and  have  great  inde- 
pendence. Their  mode  of  salutation,  even  to  superi- 
ors, is  by  shaking  hands,  and  this  is  the  way  also  in 
which  they  return  thanks  for  a favor. 

The  Norwegians  have  some  of  the  amusements 
common  in  Sweden,  and  they  delight  also  in  recount- 


NORWAY. 


251 


mg  tales  of  their  ancestors,  which  in  their  social  meet- 
ings  they  often  do,  by  turns.  Skating  upon  the  snow 
is  a practice  very  common  in  this  country.  The 
skates  are  made  of  wood  and  are  very  large.  The 
snow  is  frozen  so  hard  that  the  skaters  pass  over  it  as 
swiftly  as  upon  ice.  At  Drontheim  is  a regiment  of 
soldiers  called  skate -runners.  They  carry  a rifle, 
sword  and  a long  climbing  staff,  shod  with  iron. 
They  go  two  or  three  hundred  paces  apart,  and  move 
so  swiftly  that  no  cavalry  can  approach  them. 

Without  a great  many  establishments  for  education, 
the  people  nevertheless  are  not  illiterate,  and  there  are 
few  peasants  who  cannot  read  and  write.  There  are 
two  seminaries  for  the  instruction  of  teachers.  There 
are  many  itinerant  schoolmasters,  who  stay  in  a ham- 
let about  two  weeks  at  a time.  There  is  not  much 
national  literature  ; mathematics  is  the  favorite  study. 

The  religion  is  Protestant,  and  there  are  some  ves- 
tiges of  paganism.  At  funerals  a violin  is  played  at 
the  head  of  the  coffin,  and  questions,  as  in  various 
other  countries,  are  addressed  to  the  corpse,  in  the 
course  of  which,  it  is  customary  to  ask  pardon  for  hav- 
ing injured  or  offended  the  deceased  during  life. 


The  Laplanders  are  generally  short  in  stature,  and 
they  have  sharp  chins  and  prominent  cheek  bones. 
They  differ  from  the  Finns  in  having  dark  hair,  though 
their  complexions  are  frequently  light.  They  have  a 
tolerable  share  of  strength,  with  great  suppleness  and 
agility,  and  they  endure  much  hardship  with  patience. 
The  materials  for  dress  are  generally  the  skins  of  ani- 
mals; though  the  Laplanders  who  have  permanent 
habitations,  wear  in  summer,  woollen  stuffs,  and  shirts, 
which  the  wandering  inhabitants  have  not.  The  men 


LAPLAND. 


253 


wear  a conical  cap,  and  in  hunting,  a hood,  covering 
the  breast  and  shoulders,  and  with  only  a small  open- 
ing for  the  eyes.  They  rarely  wear  any  covering 
round  their  necks,  which  are  exposed  in  the  severest 
weather,  or  defended  only  by  a piece  of  narrow  cloth, 
going  once  round.  They  wear  a tunic  or  short  coat 
of  sheep-skin,  with  the  wool  inwards,  and  close  before 
except  on  the  breast.  Over  this,  which  is  worn  next 
the  skin,  is  a similar  garment  of  woollen,  or  skins,  with 
a stiff  collar.  The  Laplander  has  no  pocket,  but 
hangs  a small  bag  at  his  breast,  in  which  he  puts  his 
little  implements.  The  gloves  are  of  skins,  and  lined 
with  cypress  grass.  There  are  no  stockings,  and  the 
pantaloons  do  not  reach  to  the  ancle:  Instead  of 
stockings,  straw  and  rushes  are  stuffed  into  the  shoe, 
around  the  foot  and  ancle.  The  men  wear  leathern 
belts.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  not  very  dissimilar 
to  that  of  the  men.  At  night,  even  when  the  cold  is 
most  intense,  the  mountain  Laplanders  go  to  bed 
naked,  and  cover  themselves  with  their  dress  and 
skins  ; putting  their  feet  within  a bag. 

The  Laplanders  live  in  huts,  or,  in  summer,  in  tents. 
The  huts  are  so  small,  that  the  people  cannot  stand 
upright,  except  in  the  centre.  They  are  built  of  sods 
and  stone,  and  covered  with  bushes,  turf,  and  earth. 
The  household  furniture  consists  of  iron  or  copper 
kettles,  and  wooden  cups,  bowls,  and  spoons.  Some 
of  the  wealthy  have  tin,  and  even  silver  basins. 

The  reindeer  supplies  the  chief  articles  of  food, 
though  something  is  obtained  by  fishing  and  hunting. 
In  summer,  the  reindeer’s  milk  is  boiled  with  sorrel  to 
a consistence,  and  is  thus  preserved ; in  winter  it  is 
XIX. — 22 


254 


LAPLAND. 


kept  frozen  in  the  paunch  of  a reindeer,  and  mixed 
with  cranberries.  Tt  is  broken  up  with  a hatchet. 
When  cheese  is  made,  the  milk  is  mixed  with  water ; 
otherwise  it  is  too  rich  to  curdle. 

The  Laplanders  travel  on  sledges,  drawn  by  the 
reindeer.  In  descending  hills,  in  winter,  long  skates 
are  worn.  With  these  the  Laplanders  glide  down  the 
steep  mountains  so  swiftly,  that  the  air  whistles  in 
their  ears,  and  their  hair  becomes  erect  with  the 
downward  motion. 

In  Lapland,  society  exists  in  its  primitive  elements ; 
men  live  in  a state  differing  from  that  of  highly  civil- 
ized countries ; there  are  few  crimes,  and  there  is  a 
perfect  security  of  property.  The  settlements  are  not 
near  to  each  other ; and  whoever  erects  a hut  without 
the  limits  of  another,  becomes  possessed  of  the  land 
for  six  miles  around.  There  is  no  temptation  to  com- 
mit the  crimes  of  violence  or  fraud,  that  are  so  com- 
mon in  other  countries,  and  a lock  as  a security  to 
property  is  unknown  in  Lapland.  The  people 
are  gentle  and  hospitable,  and,  like  the  Esquimaux, 
they  have  the  greatest  aversion  to  war,  A Laplander 
has  never  been  known  as  a soldier.  They  resist  all 
inducements  to  leave  their  country.  They  are  not 
without  sensitive  feelings,  and  are  known  to  weep 
from  sympathy  and  compassion.  The  Laplanders 
are  expert  wrestlers,  and  they  have  several  athletic 
sports.  They  throw  javelins  at  a mark,  leap  over 
sticks  held  by  two  persons,  &c.  They  have  the  game 
of  fox  and  geese,  which  is  in  great  request. 

The  Laplanders  have  renounced  their  pagan  creed, 
though  some  of  its  rites  and  superstitions  remain. 


LAPLAND. 


255 


Marriages  and  funerals  are  not  conducted  with  much 
ceremony.  The  family  and  friends  of  a young  man, 
go  in  a body  to  solicit  the  lady  in  behalf  of  the  lover,  and 
presents  are  made.  Should  the  parents  of  the  female 
retract  their  consent,  the  presents  are  restored,  and 
even  the  brandy  that  was  drank,  is  replaced.  The 
Laplanders  make  professions  of  sorcery,  and  the  fe- 
males sometimes  are  distinguished  as  witches.  Their 
mode  of  divination  is  with  the  Runic  drum,  and  by  a 
system  of  omens.  The  pagan  superstitions  are,  how- 
over,  gradually  becoming  extinct. 


RUSSIA. 


An  observing  traveller  has  remarked  that  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  Russians  struck  him  as  more  singular 
than  that  of  any  other  people  which  he  had  seen.  In 
the  other  countries  of  Europe,  a traveller  passing  from 
state  to  state,  remarks  comparatively  a slight  change  at 
each  transition ; but  in  Russia  he  finds  everything 
changed  ; — dress,  features,  manners,  pursuits — all  are 
new.  The  first  impression  of  a stranger  in  a Russian 
crowd  is  that  he  must  be  in  some  city  of  Asia,  so  truly 
oriental  is  the  air  of  a great  part  of  the  population.  At 


RUSSIA. 


257 


another  time,  the  long  beard,  flowing  robes  and  col- 
ored girdles  which  abound,  give  them  a resemblance  to 
a population  of  Jews ; but  their  hair  and  eyes  want 
the  deep  dark  hue  of  the  children  of  Israel. 

' The  above  remarks  relate  chiefly  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  cities.  The  great  mass  of  the  people,  both  in 
town  and  country,  wear  a coarse  sheep-skin  dress, 
consisting  of  a short,  tight  surtout,  the  wool  turned  in, 
and  the  outside  black  with  filth.  Every  laborer  has  a 
beard  flowing  rough  and  grisly  on  his  bosom.  Instead 
of  the  sheep-skin  coat,  a short  frock  of  red-striped  cot- 
ton, made  much  in  the  same  shape,  is  often  worn  by 
shop-boys  and  apprentices.  But  the  most  common 
dress  of  all  who  have  not  the  axe  or  oar  in  their  hand, 
is  a long,  blue,  swaddling  coat.  They  add  a long  sash 
about  the  middle,  generally  yellow  or  red.  They  sel- 
dom wear  anything  about  the  neck,  the  collar  of  the 
coat  being  very  low,  and  the  shirt  without  a collar.  The 
head  projects  above  a long  tract  of  skin,  which,  from 
constant  exposure  to  sun  and  wind,  looks  as  horny  as 
the  hide  of  a rhinoceros.  Instead  of  shaving  the  chin, 
the  Russian  shaves  the  back  of  his  head.  Beauty,  ac- 
cording to  his  notion,  consists  in  having  the  head  raised 
as  far  as  possible  above  the  body ; accordingly,  he  shaves 
away  a large  portion  of  the  hair  at  the  top  of  the  neck, 
and  cuts  the  remainder  so  as  to  make  the  head  resem- 
ble a turnip.  He  generally  wears  a small  low-crowned 
hat,  with  a broad  brim.  If  the  Russian’s  dress  be 
scanty  above,  it  is  long  enough  below.  It  reaches  to 
the  ground,  and  laps  closely  over  the  limbs,  so  that  he 
has  a long,  waving  appearance  as  he  moves  through 
the  streets  with  a solemn  pace.  The  dress  below  the 
9,2* 


258 


RUSSIA. 


coat  is  often  very  slight ; no  flannels  are  worn ; their 
trousers  of  striped  cotton  are  thrust  into  long  black 
boots  at  the  foot,  and  thus  the  costume  is  complete. 

A stranger  would  say  that  one  half  the  people  must 
be  freezing,  even  in  summer,  so  thin  and  slight  are, 
their  garments.  Yet  there  is  a singular  contradiction 
in  the  dress  of  the  other  half  of  the  crowd  in  the  street. 
Even  in  the  warmest  daj’-s,  when  the  stranger  from 
the  south  is  scarcely  able  to  walk  for  the  heat,  he  sees 
Russians  wrapped  up  as  if  for  winter.  While  foreign- 
ers are  glad  to  fan  themselves  with  their  hats,  the  na- 
tives may  be  seen  with  large  fur  cloaks  worn  over 
thick  great-coats,  with  other  garments  sufficient  to 
load  a giant.  This  custom  arises  from  the  variable- 
ness of  the  climate.  In  the  course  of  the  same  day, 
there  are  great  changes  of  temperature  at  St.  Peters- 
burg ; at  noon,  in  summer,  the  air  is  burning  : before 
night  it  is  almost  freezing.  It  is  affirmed,  that  out  of 
the  sun,  it  is  always  cold  there ; the  damps  of  the 
river,  and  the  breezes  sweeping  from  Lake  Ladoga, 
penetrate  everywhere  ; on  the  sunny  side  of  the  street 
you  are  comfortably  warm  or  perhaps  melting,  but 
pass  to  the  shade,  and  you  shiver. 

The  females  of  the  higher  classes  imitate  the  fash- 
ions of  Paris  and  London,  and  are  said  to  indulge  in 
the  greatest  extravagance  in  ornaments,  sometimes 
lavishing  a whole  fortune  upon  a single  dress. 

Throughout  Russia,  a house  is  hardly  ever  seen 
standing  by  itself.  The  peasantry  are  all  collected  in 
small  villages,  containing  from  thirty  to  a hundred 
houses,  ranged  in  lines  by  the  highway.  Between 
the  road  and  the  houses  is  a space  of  seven  or  eight 


RUSSIA. 


259 


yards,  a perfect  quagmire  of  mud.  The  gable  end  of 
the  house  faces  the  road  : the  roof  is  sharp,  and  cover- 
ed with  boards,  fantastically  carved,  or  with  straw  and 
reeds.  One  corner  of  the  gable  is  usually  occupied 
by  a door,  and  the  upper  portion  displays  six  or  eight 
small  windows,  with  folding  shutters,  gaudily  painted. 
Every  house  has  a bench,  sheltered  by  the  projecting 
roof,  where  young  and  old  sit  to  enjoy  the  sun  on  holi- 
days. Scarcely  a cottage  is  without  its  large  draw- 
well,  with  wheel  and  rope  before  it.  No  part  of  a 
house  is  painted  except  the  shutters,  consequently,  all 
the  villages  have  a dingy,  decaying  appearance. 
There  is  no  want  of  comfort,  however,  that  is,  of  Rus- 
sian comfort,  which  never  includes  cleanliness. 

Such  is  the  genuine  Russian  domestic  architecture. 
Of  the  great  cities,  we  may  give  a different  account. 
Moscow,  whose  terrible  catastrophe  in  1812  is  known 
to  every  one,  has  risen  from  its  ashes  in  greater  splen- 
dor than  ever  ; scarcely  a trace  of  the  great  conflagra- 
tion is  now  to  he  seen,  and  it  would  seem  to  have  suf- 
fered on  that  occasion  only  to  make  way  for  improve- 
ments. The  Russians  were  always  proud  of  Moscow, 
and  its  destruction  being  connected  with  the  overthrow 
of  a hated  invader,  made  them  still  more  proud  of  it ; 
every  one  bearing  the  name  of  Russian,  from  the  Em- 
peror to  the  lowest  peasant,  felt  honored  in  contribut- 
ing to  the  patriotic  work  of  its  restoration.  The  view 
of  this  city  at  a distance  has  excited  the  admiration  of 
all  travellers.  The  countless  number  of  towers,  some 
with  cupolas,  either  gilt  or  painted  green,  and  others 
rising  in  the  form  of  minarets,  and  the  many  gardens 
and  trees  intermixed  with  the  houses,  give  the  city  a 


RUSSIA.  261 

perfectly  oriental  appearance.  The  towers  are  said 
to  amount  to  six  hundred,  nearly  every  church  having 
several  besides  the  steeple.  The  cupolas  or  domes 
are  in  the  form  of  a bulb  or  onion,  surmounted  by  a 
crescent,  with  the  cross  above  it.  The  towers  vary 
considerably  in  form  and  color,  and  give  the  city  its 
characteristic  appearance  ; they  are  all  built  of  stone, 
and  most  of  them  are  situated  in  open  squares,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  they  escaped  the  fire  of  1812. 
Hence  Moscow  has  lost  little  or  nothing  of  its  original 
aspect.  In  the  palaces  and  public  buildings,  almost 
every  style  of  architecture  has  been  copied.  The 
Kremlin  is  the  most  famous  building  in  the  city — it  is 
a fortified  palace  of  vast  extent,  adorned  with  numer- 
ous towers  and  minarets,  and  is  a most  singular  and 
magnificent  pile  of  architecture. 

St.  Petersburg  strikes  every  visiter  with  astonish- 
ment by  the  splendor  of  its  architecture.  Its  long 
lines  of  houses  and  palaces  are  generally  of  a uniform 
plan,  and  have  a freshness  of  appearance  that  indi- 
cates the  recent  origin  of  the  city.  “ The  united  mag- 
nificence of  all  the  cities  of  Europe,”  says  Dr.  Clarke, 
since  whose  time  it  has  been  very  much  improved, 
“could  but  equal  St.  Petersburg.”  There  is  nothing- 
mean  or  little  to  offend  the  eye ; all  is  grand,  exten- 
sive, large  and  open  ; the  streets  seem  to  consist  en- 
tirely of  palaces  ; the  structures  are  lofty  and  elegant. 
The  public  buildings,  quays,  piers,  ramparts,  See.  are 
composed  of  masses  of  solid  granite  ; and  our  ad- 
miration is  increased,  when  we  reflect  that  not  two 
centuries  have  elapsed  since  the  foundation  of  the 
city.  Palaces,  cathedrals,  triumphal  arches  and  monu- 
Q 


262 


RUSSIA. 


mental  statues,  all  of  most  tasteful  design  and  cost- 
ly workmanship,  stand  in  thick  and  fair  array  on  a 
spot  which  was  recently  covered  with  marshes  and 
forests.  The  plasterer’s  trowel  and  the  painter’s 
brush  are  kept  in  constant  activity  throughout  the 
city,  so  that  there  is  no  appearance  of  decay  in  any 
quarter.  Repairs  are  not  left  to  the  caprice  or  indo- 
lence of  the  owners  of  houses  ; the  government  imme- 
diately steps  in  and  orders  them  to  he  made.  It  can 
create  also  as  well  as  preserve,  for  much  of  St.  Peters- 
burg has  been  built  by  compulsion ; it  would  never 
have  attained  to  half  its  present  magnitude  but  for  the 
interference  of  the  authorities,  who  were  accustomed 
to  say  to  a man  in  very  plain  terms,  “ You  who  have 
this  income  or  that,  or  this  or  that  number  of  houses, 
are  hereby  called  upon  to  build  forthwith  so  many 
more.” 

In  spite,  however,  of  the  magnificence  of  this  city, 
there  are  deficiencies  which  deprive  it  of  the  charac- 
ter of  a great  capital,  and  cause  it  to  rank  no  higher 
than  an  enormous  country  village.  Of  mere  bulk, 
wealth  and  population,  it  has  enough,  but  this  splen- 
did city,  built  to  order”  by  the  commands  of  a des- 
pot, wants  the  indescribable  something  which  makes 
the  capitals  of  France  and  England  the  capitals  also  of 
the  intellect  and  fashion  of  Europe.  The  Russian 
metropolis  has  filled  the  nations  with  wonder  by  its 
sudden  rise,  and  it  may  fill  them  with  greater  wonder 
by  its  yet  more  sudden  fall.  The  proud  monarch  of 
the  north  may  have  it  said  of  that  stately  city  as  was 
said  of  Jonah’s  gourd,  that  it  came  up  in  a night  and 
perished  in  a night.  Such  a calamity,  if  we  may  be- 


RUSSIA. 


263 


lieve  those  who  have  long  resided  there,  is  by  no 
means  improbable.  The  ground  is  so  low,  that  the 
Neva  at  times  sweeps  irresistibly  over  a great  part  of 
the  city ; and  the  inundations  have  often  risen  so  high 
as  to  threaten  the  complete  subversion  of  the  finest 
quarters.  Should  a rise  of  the  river  happen  simul- 
taneously with  a strong  wind  blowing  up  the  Gulf  of 
Finland,  nothing  can  save  the  city  from  total  destruc- 
tion. 

The  Russian  peasant  is  satisfied  with  the  plainest 
food.  No  people  in  Europe  are  so  coarsely  fed.  Their 
diet  consists  of  all  the  sour  things  that  can  be  procured  ; 
pickled  cucumbers,  pickled  cabbage,  or  pickled  mush- 
rooms, with  a piece  of  black  bread,  are  their  daily  fare. 
At  rare  intervals  they  may  taste  a little  fish,  or  even 
butcher’s  meat,  but  these  also,  the  fish  at  all  events, 
are  likely  to  be  excessively  acrid.  To  gratify  this 
taste  for  sours,  cucumbers  are  raised  in  amazing  quan- 
tities ; every  market-place  in  the  empire  displays 
heaps  of  them  on  the  right  hand  and  on  the  left.  In 
the  country  towns,  a hundred  good  ones  may  be 
bought  for  six  cents.  At  the  tables  of  the  middle 
classes,  they  are  seen  almost  every  day.  The  pickled 
cabbage  of  the  Russians  is  not  unlike  the  German  sour 
krout.  The  pickled  mushrooms  are  beyond  all  endur- 
able sourness.  In  short,  the  Russian  peasant  lives 
upon  acids,  and  unless  his  food  burn  his  palate  it  has 
no  relish  for  him.  As  may  easily  be  inferred,  it  is 
also  very  unwholesome.  The  Russians  are  undoubt- 
edly more  liable  to  scorbutic  diseases  than  any  nation 
in  Europe. 

The  wealthy  classes  adopt  the  French  style  of 


264 


RUSSIA. 


cookery,  yet  they  preserve  some  of  the  national  dishes. 
One  of  these  the  Russians  consider  as  the  most  exquis- 
ite of  luxuries.  It  is  a soup  called  hatinia,  which,  to 
the  palate  of  a stranger,  is  the  most  horrible  compound 
of  burning  poisons,  ever  invented.  The  use  of  mush- 
rooms is  universal,  from  the  Emperor  to  the  beggar ; 
and  it  is  remarkable  that  the  very  kinds  which  are 
poisonous  in  the  west  of  Europe,  are  eaten  by  the 
Russians  with  perfect  impunity.  All  classes  have  a 
great  fondness  for  raw  turnips. 

The  extravagance  of  the  Russians  with  regard  to  wine 
is  worthy  of  remark.  Their  own  country  produces  this, 
but  a Russian  affects  to  care  for  nothing  that  can  be  got 
at  home ; you  almost  insult  him  by  asking  for  a bottle 
of  the  wine  of  the  Crimea,  if  it  be  only  to  say  that  you 
had  drank  Russian  vrine  in  Russia.  The  government 
has  been  at  great  pains  to  promote  the  cultivation  of 
the  vine  in  the  south,  but  as  yet  with  no  very  decided 
success.  Some  of  the  wines  of  the  Crimea  are  toler- 
able, but  the  greater  part  of  them  are  little  better  than 
red  ink  with  sugar  in  it.  French  wines  are  chiefly 
used,  and  these  of  the  most  expensive  quality.  Cham- 
pagne is  the  favorite ; at  home  or  abroad  the  Russian 
is  steady  in  his  affection  for  this  beverage,  and  it  is 
almost  the  only  one  which  he  thinks  fit  for  rational 
beings  ; 400,000  bottles  of  it  are  consumed  annually 
in  the  country. 

With  all  the  partiality  of  the  Russians,  however,  for 
imported  luxuries,  there  is  a home-made  liquor,  their 
love  for  which  nothing  can  shake,  and  that  is  hmss^ 
In  vain  have  the  English  tempted  them  by  establishing 
breweries  of  ale ; they  still  keep  by  their  national 


RXJSSU. 


265 


drink.  It  is  a thin  and  very  sour  beverage,  yet  the 
people  think  they  cannot  live  without  it,  and  it  is  pat- 
ronized by  all  ranks  and  denominations.  There  is  a 
vessel  of  it  in  every  peasant’s  hut,  from  which  the 
family  are  sipping  the  whole  day  long,  and  you  find 
it  in  bottles  on  the  same  table  with  champagne.  It  is 
made  of  rye,  boiled  in  a large  quantity  of  water,  which 
being  afterwards  fermented,  acquires  a sourish  and  not 
disagreeable  taste,  and  is  most  effectual  in  allaying 
thirst.  The  vodki  or  brandy  in  which  the  poor  Eus- 
sian  indulges  to  a most  debasing  excess,  is  a harsh 
and  fiery  liquor,  distilled  from  rye,  oats  and  barley. 
None  but  the  lower  classes  use  this  drink  freely,  but 
these  consume  it  to  an  incredible  extent,  and  with  the 
most  pernicious  effects.  There  is  something  remark- 
able in  a Russian’s  way  of  getting  intoxicated.  Some 
nations  drink  for  amusement,  and  for  sociality,  but  the 
Russian  drinks  for  drunkenness.  A Frenchman 
spends  his  holiday  at  the  guinguette,  over  a pint  of 
wine,  and  even  if  it  be  a quart,  he  walks  home  very 
decently  at  night.  He  went  there  to  talk,  to  dance,  or 
to  see  his  friend ; the  wine  was  a mere  secondary 
consideration,  a means,  not  the  end  of  his  amusement. 
The  Englishman  goes  to  the  tavern  or  alehouse  to 
read  the  newspaper,  smoke  his  pipe  and  abuse  the 
ministry ; he  may  come  away  merry,  but  it  was  for 
the  company  and  the  talk  that  he  went  thither,  and 
not  mainly  for  the  liquor.  Even  when  a Frenchman 
or  an  Englishman  does  get  intoxicated,  he  spends 
hours  in  reaching  that  state ; but  the  Russian  gets 
drunk  in  a moment.  He  enters  a brandy-shop,  counts 
down  his  copecs,  seizes  the  measure,  and  at  one 
draught  swallows  enough  to  make  him  a beast. 

XIX. — 23 


266 


RUSSIA. 


Travelling  is  attended  with  peculiar  inconveniences 
in  Russia.  Every  person  about  to  leave  the  capital 
for  a foreign  country  is  under  the  necessity  of  adver- 
tising his  intention  in  the  newspapers  at  least  three 
different  times.  The  professed  object  of  this  regula- 
tion is  to  prevent  people  from  running  away  without 
' paying  their  debts ; but  the  real  object  is  to  give  the 
police  time  to  ascertain  privately  whether  the  traveller 
may  have  any  motives  of  a political  nature.  Owing 
to  this  arrangement,  the  stated  time  required  for  get- 
ting a passport  ready  is  about  a fortnight;  so  that 
, travellers  who  go  to  St.  Petersburg  on  a flying  visit 
must  begin  advertising  themselves  as  soon  as  they  ar- 
rive. For  a merchant  or  other  person  who  has  been 
long  settled  in  the  country,  the  process  is  more  protract- 
ed, and  indeed  the  formalities  in  this  case  are  so  trouble- 
some, that  it  is  difficult  to  get  away  at  all.  Strangers 
leaving  St.  Petersburg  for  the  interior,  designing  to 
leave  Russia  without  returning  to  the  capital,  must 
also  advertise  themselves.  The  expense  of  advertis- 
ing and  passports  is  a heavy  tax  upon  travelling. 

A few  years  since,  no  kind  of  public  conveyance 
was  known  in  Russia ; at  present,  there  are  diligences 
running  between  Moscow  and  St.  Petersburg,  and 
there  is  in  other  parts  of  the  empire  a posting  system 
called  the  padoroshna.  The  Russian  diligence  has  a 
general  resemblance  to  its  French  namesake,  but  is 
much  more  comfortable.  It  is  drawn  by  four  horses 
yoked  abreast.  The  driver  and  the  postilion  sit  in 
front,  the  one  over  the  other.  The  hinder  part  of  the 
diligence  is  occupied  by  a covered  bench,  closed  in 
with  leather  cushions,  for  three  persons.  The  body 


RUSSIA. 


267 


is  divided  into  two  compartments  for  two  persons 
each ; this  is  much  the  most  comfortable  part  of  the 
machine ; each  passenger  has  a seat  fenced  off  for 
himself,  where  he  sits  as  in  an  arm-chair,  conversing 
with  his  neighbor  at  his  elbow,  but  never  incommod- 
ing him.  Each  has  a small  looking-gllss  before  him, 
very  convenient  to  a Russian,  who  is  always  trimming 
his  beard.  There  is  also  a small  folding  table  in  front 
of  each  person,  not  without  its  use  in  a country  where 
the  natives  always  lay  in  stores  for  a journey,  that 
they  may  be  independent  of  taverns  by  the  way. 
Their  meals  of  sausage  and  bread  are  eaten  from  this 
table  as  the  horses  move  on.  The  road  from  St.  Pe- 
tersburg to  Moscow  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 
It  is  a work  of  recent  construction,  very  broad,  with 
gutters  on  each  side,  and  embellished  by  rows  of  trees 
for  a considerable  distance.  The  Emperor  takes  a 
pride  in  keeping  it  as  neat  as  a garden  walk. 

Beyond  Moscow  there  is  nothing  properly  de- 
serving the  name  of  a road  in  any  direction;  nothing 
but  irregular  tracks  through  fields  and  forests,  some- 
times tolerably  good,  but  when  rain  has  fallen,  almost 
impassable.  Beside  bad  roads,  the  traveller  must  en- 
counter bad  inns,  without  cooks,  without  beds,  and 
destitute  of  comforts  of  any  kind.  The  natives  almost 
always  employ  the  telega  on  long  journeys,  from  its 
being  almost  the  only  vehicle  of  Russian  construction 
which  can  stand  the  obstructions  of  the  roads.  With 
an  open  front  to  let  the  traveller  see  the  country  by 
day,  and  bed  and  blankets  for  the  night,  it  is,  perhaps, 
the  best,  and  certainly  the  cheapest  vehicle  of  all.  It  has 
no  springs,  but  the  wood  which  it  rests  upon  is  so  elastic 


268 


RUSSIA. 


that  the  jolting  is  not  much  worse  than  in  a carriage; 
and  it  has  the  advantage  of  being  strong  and  clumsy 
enough  to  howl  safely  through  the  ruts,  which  few 
carriages  could  do. 

The  padoroshna  is  an  order  from  a magistrate  on 
the  postmasters  along  the  intended  route  of  the  trav- 
eller, by  which  he  may  always  obtain  a specified  num- 
ber of  horses.  The  fee  for  this  document  is  pretty 
heavy,  but  there  is  nothing  lost  by  it,  as  a portion  of 
the  sum  is  deducted  from  every  charge  for  horses. 
The  podoroshna  is  exhibited  at  every  stage,  and  the 
postmaster  is  compelled  to  furnish  the  number  of 
horses  ordered  in  it,  and  he  is  at  liberty  to  give  more 
if  necessary  from  the  state  of  the  highways.  Every 
Russian  is  taxed  25  copecs  a-year  for  the  maintenance 
of  the  roads  : but  it  would  seem  that  this  money  is  not 
wholly  appropriated  to  its  right  object. 

A Russian  postilion  is  a singular  creature.  In  his 
greasy  sheepskin,  faded  sash,  and  low  round  hat,  with 
bright  buckles  or  a few  peacock’s  feathers  twisted  in 
the  band,  he  flies  off  the  moment  he  has  mounted  the 
vehicle,  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  whistling, 
singing,  shouting  and  talking  to  his  horses,  making  as 
much  noise  as  an  Irishman  at  a fair,  his  whip,  like  the 
shillalati,  flourishing  fiercely  round  his  head,  but  sel- 
dom coming  down  with  the  same  fatal  violence.  In 
fact,  it  is  by  his  tongue  more  than  by  his  whip,  that 
he  impels  his  horses.  He  reasons  with  them,  remon- 
strates, conjures  and  upbraids,  all  the  time.  If  you 
tell  him  that  your  head  aches  with  his  noise,  he  shrugs 
his  shoulders,  raises  his  eyebrows,  and  gives  you  to 
understand  that  the  horses,  which  he  fondly  terms  his 


RUSSIA. 


269 


pigeons,  his  rabbits,  his  darlings,  and  his  turtle-doves, 
are  so  fond  of  talk  and  so  well  accustomed  to  his  voice, 
that  they  would  never  move  if  he  were  silent. 

The  Russian  drosky  is  described  by  travellers  as 
one  of  the  most  absurd  vehicles  ever  invented.  It 
consists  of  a low,  narrow  seat,  covered  with  black  lea- 
ther, not  much  larger  than  a dragoon  saddle,  and  sup- 
ported on  four  small  wheels,  between  the  two  foremost 
of  which  is  a box  for  the  driver.  It  is  something  like 
a velocipede ; and  the  passenger  sits  astride  with  his 
feet  touching  the  ground  on  each  side,  or  resting  in  a 
sort  of  stirrups,  which  brush  the  mud  below.  There 
is  room  for  two  passengers,  but  they  must  sit  face  to 
face,  as  comfortable  as  a pair  who  should  mount  a 
horse  together  in  that  style.  Sometimes,  however, 
the  passengers  sit  sideways,  or  one  in  the  other’s  lap, 
but  always  most  awkwardly.  It  is  difficult  to  under- 
stand why  the  Russians  make  use  of  so  ill-contrived  a 
machine. 

The  temptations  to  journey  in  Russia  must  be  few. 
According  to  the  testimony  of  travellers,  this  great 
empire  covers  the  least  beautiful  portion  of  the  habit- 
able globe.  With  the  exception  of  the  Crimea,  which 
may  be  called  the  Russian  Italy,  there  is  hardly  a spot 
in  it  that  can  be  deemed  picturesque.  One  may  travel 
five  hundred  miles  without  having  the  sight  ever 
attracted  by  a romantic  landscape, — not  a single  beau- 
tiful mountain,  beetling  cliff,  brawling  stream,  or  fresh 
green  dell,  will  arrest  his  attention.  He  finds  nothing 
but  the  dead,  wearisome,  ceaseless  monotony  of  plain 
and  forest. 

The  Russians  have  remarkable  imitative  powers, 
23* 


270 


RUSSIA. 


and  these  are  very  strikingly  exhibited  in  their  national 
amusements  and  pastimes.  The  fun  and  drollery 
which  they  display  when  two  or  three  persons  chance 
to  meet  upon  an  idle  holiday,  are  inexhaustible.  On 
such  occasions,  dancing  is  a favorite  amusement : and 
they  sing  constantly,  whether  it  be  a holiday  or  not : 
the  singing  is  generally  bad,  but  when  taught,  the 
Russians  make  excellent  musicians.  So  strong  is 
their  natural  turn  for  music  that  a lad  taken  from  the 
plough  will,  at  the  end  of  six  months,  play  the  most 
difficult  pieces  on  any  instrument  that  may  be  selected 
for  him.  These  qualities  of  imitation  and  liveliness 
make  them  excellent  actors  : they  are  born  comedians ; 
even  those  of  the  lowest  rank  show  a strong  passion 
for  everything  dramatic.  On  the  stage,  consequently, 
they  are  extremely  natural,  and  keep  the  audience  in 
constant  laughter.  The  national  dance  is  described 
by  travellers  as  very  pretty. 

The  genuine  unsophisticated  Russian  exhibits  no- 
where a more  strongly  marked  character  than  in  his 
devotions.  Follow  him  into  the  church  and  you  find 
him  on  his  knees  repeating  his  prayers  after  the  priest, 
with  a fluency  which  nothing  can  arrest,  and  a devo- 
tion which  nothing  can  distract.  Pass  him  or  jostle 
him  as  you  may,  he  is  too  deeply  engaged  in  his  pious 
work  to  take  the  least  notice  of  you.  On  entering  the 
church  he  kisses  the  sacred  picture  near  the  door,  or 
tries  to  reach  that  hanging  on  the  wall,  to  which,  as  it 
is  of  more  than  ordinary  sanctity,  you  may  see  the 
parents  raising  their  little  infants,  that  they  too  may 
touch  it  with  their  lips.  This  salutation  over,  he 
selects  a place  for  himself  on  the  floor,  as  near  the 


RUSSU. 


271 


priest  as  possible.  There  is  a woman  in  one  of  the 
aisles  with  a small  table  or  basket  before  her,  selling 
long  slender  tapers ; from  her  the  more  devout  make 
a purchase,  and  lighting  it,  set  their  offering  on  one 
of  the  little  triangular  frames  of  wood  planted  among 
the  pillars,  and  stuck  all  over  with  nails  to  receive 
these  gifts.  The  mutterings  and  prostrations  of  the 
worshippers  are  most  singular.  Some  on  the  outskirts 
of  the  assembly  may  remain  standing,  but  the  greater 
part  have  their  knees  bent  to  the  naked  floor ; at  cer- 
tain words,  however,  both  those  who  are  standing, 
and  those  who  kneel,  strike  their  foreheads  on  the 
pavement  with  great  vehemence,  uttering  at  the  same 
time,  some  words  after  the  priest : this  is  repeated 
several  times  before  the  service  is  finished.  Some 
poor  old  women  are  always  most  conspicuous  in  these 
violent  agitations  ; but  all  ages  and  classes,  and  both 
sexes,  join  with  more  or  less  ardor.  In  short,  the 
mummery  of  the  Russian  worship  surpasses  every- 
thing of  the  kind  in  Catholic  countries,  and  can  be 
compared  only  to  the  violence  of  some  of  the  Hindoos. 
The  ignorance  of  the  Russian  boor  is  extreme ; his 
religion  is  little  better  than  superstition.  Of  a Su- 
preme Being  he  has  the  most  imperfect  notions  : he 
imagines  God  to  be  only  something  a little  higher  than 
the  emperor,  regarding  him  not  as  an  omnipotent 
spiritual  being,  but  as  one  residing  he  knows  not 
where,  whb  will  punish  him  for  neglecting  church 
nearly  in  the  same  way  as  the  emperor  would  punish 
him  for  disobeying  a mandate. 

In  short,  as  has  been  often  said,  the  Russian’s  reli- 
gion consists  in  being  able  to  make  the  sign  of  the 


272 


RUSSIA. 


cross.  He  is  crossing  himself  all  day  long.  When 
he  first  comes  abroad  in  the  morning,  if  no  church  be 
in  sight  from  his  own  door,  he  listens  for  the  first 
sound  of  some  bell,  then  turning  towards  it,  crosses 
nimself  with  great  fervor  to  insure  a blessing  on  the 
undertakings  of  tbe  day.  He  crosses  himself  before 
and  after  each  meal.  When  you  make  a bargain  with 
him  he  crosses  himself  that  it  may  prosper.  When 
his  countryman  spits  upon  him,  by  way  of  anathema, 
he  meekly  crosses  himself  to  avert  the  curse.  When 
the  peasant,  who  is  to  drive  your  carriage,  takes  the 
reins,  he  crosses  himself  to  keep  away  accidents,  and 
every  steeple  on  the  road  gets  the  same  mark  of  re- 
spect. Sometimes  the  edifice  thus  saluted  is  so  far  off 
that  the  stranger  wonders  at  the  quickness  shown  in 
discovering  it,  and  is  often  at  a loss  to  spy  the  distant 
hamlet,  where  it  stands.  The  passenger  crosses  him- 
self every  time  he  starts  with  new  horses.  What  the 
old  do  thus  frequently,  the  young,  of  course,  imitate. 
If  you  give  a child  a piece  of  money,  its  little  hand  is 
up  in  a moment  to  make  the  sign  of  the  cross,  by  way 
of  blessing  and  thanks. 

Another  very  remarkable  part  of  the  religion  of  the 
Russians  is  their  respect  for  hells.  The  air  resounds 
with  them  from  morning  to  night.  Every  church  is 
furnished  with  several,  and  many  are  very  expensive. 
They  have  not  the  deep,  solemn  sound  of  English  and 
American  bells,  but  a rich  and  indescribable  sweetness, 
never  heard  but  in  Russia,  and  said  by  some  to  be 
caused  by  the  predominance  of  silver  in  their  compo- 
sition. They  are  not  swung  as  with  us,  but  only  the 
tongue  is  moved.  The  reverence  of  the  Russian  for 


RUSSIA. 


273 


bells  begins  even  when  they  are  in  the  hands  of  the 
founder.  The  child  casts  its  mite  into  the  melting 
mass,  and  the  beggar  his  alms ; the  bride  gives  her 


ornaments,  and  the  princess  her  jewels  : all  are  eager 
to  aid  the  pious  work.  Gold  and  silver  are,  in  conse- 
quence, so  profusely  contributed  on  these  occasions, 
that  some  of  these  bells  are  the  monarchs  of  their 
tribe.  Russia  boasts  of  having  the  largest  bells  in  the 
world.  The  day  on  which  a bell  is  consecrated  is 
always  marked  with  great  solemnity  and  rejoicing. 
We  need  not  wonder  that  these  objects  are  so  much 
beloved,  for  perhaps  the  happiest  and  most  romantic 
associations  of  the  Russian  are  linked  with  the  history 
of  his  village  bell.  In  a country  where  there  is  so 
little  bordering  on  romance,  this  trait  of  national  cha- 
racter is  not  unwelcome.  But  if  we  attempt  to  ascer- 


274 


RUSSIA. 


tain  what  it  is  which  the  Eussians  worship  in  their  bells, 
the  result  will  be  far  from  distinct.  Travellers  have 
been  unable  to  learn  whether  the  salute  in  passing  a 
church  is  made  to  the  building  or  to  the  metal. 

Easter  eve  in  Russia  is  celebrated  with  great  rejoic- 
ing. The  steps  of  the  churches  are  loaded  with  eat- 
ables of  every  kind,  which  are  brought  to  be  blessed 
by  the  priest,  before  the  people  can  break  their  long 
fast.  The  poor  people  bring  large  quantities  of  eggs 
boiled  hard,  and  painted  on  the  shell  with  different 
colors.  Some  of  them  are  gilt,  and  painted  with 
figures  of  saints  and  other  devices.  Every  one  who 
goes  into  the  street  takes  a few  of  these  in  his  pocket, 
to  keep  up  the  following  singular  custom. 

Ivan  and  Alexis  meet  in  the  street ; the  two  friends 
stop,  and  each  pulls  out  an  egg.  These  are  arranged 
so  that  only  the  end  is  allowed  to  be  seen,  the  hand 
being  closed  over  the  rest.  After  some  manoeuvring, 
the  two  eggs  are  knocked  together ; the  one  whose 
egg  is  broken  loses  ; the  victor  pockets  both,  and  says, 
“ Christ  is  risen the  other  replies,  “ He  is  indeed 
risen.”  They  then  take  off  their  hats,  kiss  three 
times,  make  a most  profound  bow,  and  part,  to  repeat 
the  same  ceremony  at  the  corner  of  the  next  street 
with  some  other  person. 

The  Russians  place  great  reliance  on  fortune  tellers. 
Gypsies  are  consequently  a privileged  race,  and  carry 
on  a thriving  trade  in  the  land.  In  short,  the  instances 
of  credulity  and  weakness  met  with  among  the  lower 
classes,  and  not  unknown  even  among  the  higher 
ranks,  are  most  melancholy.  The  belief  in  lucky  and 
unlucky  days  for  setting  out  on  a journey,  or  com- 


RUSSIA. 


275 


mencing  an  undertaking, — the  evil  consequences  of 
meeting  certain  kinds  of  people,  such  as  a monk, — the 
danger  of  having  thirteen  at  dinner,  or  of  spilling  salt — 
in  fact  all  the  absurdities  which  were  formerly  preva- 
lent in  many  parts  of  Western  Europe,  still  reign 
among  the  Kussians  with  undiminished  authority. 
They  have  also  a reluctance  to  insure  houses,  or  pro- 
perty of  any  description.  It  is  long  since  attempts 
were  made  to  establish  insurance  companies,  but,  until 
very  lately,  such  schemes  never  met  with  encourage- 
ment. In  fact,  they  are  half  Turks  in  their  practice, 
if  not  in  their  faith,  and  act  as  if  it  were  impious  to 
struggle  against  fate. 

The  Eussian  peasant  seems  to  be  at  the  mercy  of 
all  who  choose  to  lift  their  arm  against  him.  His 
lord  orders  him  stripes  as  many  and  as  often  as  he 
pleases.  The  poor  creature  is  made  to  stoop  on  his 
hands  and  knees  while  a man  smites  him  with  a rod 
the  prescribed  number  of  times.  Though  degrading 
however,  this  chastisement  is  not  often  severe  ; it  is 
quite  distinct  from  the  terrible  knotCt,  which  is  inflicted 
only  by  the  sentence  of  a judge,  and  lacerates  the  suf- 
ferer so  dreadfully  that  it  is  long  before  he  recovers,  if 
at  all.  Nobles  and  military  men,  all  who  wear  a 
government  uniform  of  any  kind,  seem  to  possess  the 
privilege  of  beating  the  people  of  the  lower  orders 
whenever  they  feel  offended  with  any  of  them.  Even 
the  servants  of  the  latter  classes  claim  the  privilege 
of  beating  those  beneath  them  ; but  it  is  only  to  be 
themselves  beaten  in  their  turn  by  the  master  himself, 
or  by  his  executioner,  who,  though  he  may  not  bear 
this  name,  is  an  indispensable  appendage  to  every 


276 


RUSSIA. 


great  establishment.  Generally  speaking,  nothing 
can  be  more  brutal  than  the  conduct  of  every  man 
wearing  an  uniform,  whenever  he  has  it  in  his  power ; 
it  is  in  this  way  that  the  underling  revenges  himself 
for  the  contumelious  treatment  he  is  doomed  to  endure 
from  those  above  him. 

The  politeness  and  pacific  temper  of  the  Eussian 
lower  orders  are  remarkable ; fighting  is  hardly  known, 
but  scenes  of  hugging  and  kissing  are  wonderfully  fre- 
quent among  the  long-bearded  populace.  Two  fellows 
in  sheepskins,  when  they  happen  to  be  friends,  bow 
to  each  other  in  passing  as  profoundly  as  a couple  of 
French  Academicians.  This  bowing  propensity, 
however,  is  not  so  indiscriminate  as  among  the 
French,  who  bow  to  all,  friend  and  foe,  but  more 
especially  to  their  superiors.  The  Russian,  on  the 
contrary,  seldom  takes  notice  of  those  he  does  not 
know : it  is  only  to  his  woolly  friend  that  his  ragged 
hat  comes  off  in  passing  along  the  road.  To  the 
stranger  who  asks  his  assistance,  he  is  most  polite  and 
friendly.  Duplidty  and  treachery  seem  to  be  ex- 
tremely rare  among  them.  In  short,  there  is  every 
reason  to  look  upon  the  great  mass  of  the  Eussian 
people  as  of  an  excellent  natural  disposition,  patient 
under  wrongs  and  sufferings,  amiable  and  warm- 
hearted, and  grateful  to  those  who  treat  them  well. 
Could  the  emperor  Nicholas  but  cure  them  of  their 
besotting  vice,  of  the  love  of  drink,  he  w’^ould  do  more 
for  his  empire  than  by  the  capture  of  Constantinople. 


POLAND. 


Although  the  whole  of  Poland,  with  the  exception 
of  the  small  territory  of  Cracow,  has  been  divided  be- 
tween Russia,  Prussia,  and  Austria,  and  become  politi- 
cally incorporated  into  those  monarchies,  yet  the 
national  spirit  and.  the  national  manners  still  remain, 
and  we  have  witnessed  with  what  eagerness  and 
enthusiasm  they  have  grasped  at  every  chance,  how- 
ever small  or  desperate,  of  regaining  their  national 
independence ; such  a result,  however,  is  now  far  dis- 
tant, if  indeed  it  can  be  deemed  within  the  bounds  of 
possibility. 

The  Poles  are  a lively  people,  and  use  much  action 
in  their  common  discourse.  When  they  salute  each 
other  they  usually  incline  the  head  and  strike  the 
breast  with  one  hand,  while  they  stretch  the  other 
towards  the  ground  ; but  when  a common  person 
meets  a superior,  he  bows  his  head  almost  to  the  earth, 
at  the  same  time  waving  his  hand,  with  which  he 
touches  the  leg  near  the  heel  of  the  person  to  whom 
he  pays  obeisance.  The  men  of  all  ranks  generally 
wear  whiskers  and  shave  their  heads,  leaving  only  a 
circle  of  hair  near  the  crown.  The  summer  dress  of 
the  peasants  consists  of  a shirt  and  drawers  of  coarse 
linen,  without  shoes  or  stockings,  and  round  caps  or 
hats.  The  women  of  the  lower  class  wear  upon  their 
R XIX — 24 


278 


POLAND. 


heads  a wrapper  of  white  linen,  under  which  their 
hair  *is  braided,  hanging  down  to  the  middle.  The 
dress  of  the  higher  orders,  both  men  and  women,  is 
very  elegant.  That  of  the  gentlemen  is  a waistcoat 
without  sleeves,  with  an  upper  robe  of  a different  color, 
which  reaches  below  the  knee,  and  is  fastened  round 
the  waist  with  a sash  or  girdle.  The  sleeves,  in  warm 
weather,  are  tied  behind  the  shoulders.  In  summer, 
the  robe  is  of  silk ; in  winter,  of  woollen  or  velvet, 
edged  with  fur.  A sabre  is  a necessary  appendage  of 
the  dress,  as  a mark  of  nobility.  F ur  caps  or  bonnets 
are  worn,  and  buskins  of  yellow  leather,  the  heels  of 
which  are  plated  with  iron  or  steel.  The  dress  of  the 
ladies  is  a simple  •polonaise^  or  long  robe,  edged  with 
fur. 

The  Poles,  in  their  features,  aspect,  customs,  dress, 
and  general  appearance,  resemble  Asiatics  rather  than 
Europeans,  and  are  unquestionably  descended  from 
Tartar  ancestors.  The  manner  in  which  they  wear 
their  hair  is  a striking  token  of  their  origin.  As  early 
as  the  fifth  century,  some  nations,  comprehended  under 
the  name  of  Scythians,  had  a similar  practice. 

All  the  nobles  or  gentry  are,  in  the  strict  letter  of 
the  law,  equal  by  birth,  so  that  honors  and  titles  are 
supposed  to  add  nothing  to  th^r  real  dignity.  The 
Polish  nobility  display  great  elegance  and  luxury  in 
their  houses  and  villas.  In  their  decorations  and  fur- 
niture, they  seem  to  have  happily  blended  the  French 
and  English  modes.  In  their  entertainments  they  are 
highly  refined,  and  as  they  spare  no  expense,  and  have 
a good  taste,  the  effect  upon  a stranger  is  both  sur- 
prising and  captivating.  The  Polish  ladies  are  said 
to  be  the  most  fascinating  in  the  world. 


POLAND. 


279 


Jews  abound  in  Poland,  particularly  in  the  province 
of  Lithuania.  If  you  ask  for  an  interpreter,  they  bring 
you  a Jew ; if  you  come  to  an  inn,  the  landlord  is  a 
Jew ; if  you  want  post-horses,  a Jew  procures  them, 
and  a Jew  drives  them ; if  you  wish  to  make  a pur- 
chase, a Jew  is  your  agent ; and  this  is  perhaps  the 
only  country  in  Europe  where  the  Jews  cultivate  the 
ground.  The  peasantry  in  Poland,  generally  speak- 
ing, are  in  a wretched  state,  with  little  of  the  improve- 
ment of  civilization  and  the  arts.  Their  carts  are  put 
together  without  iron  ; their  bridles  and  traces  are 
generally  braided  from  the  bark  of  trees,  or  composed 
of  twisted  branches.  They  have  no  other  tool  than  a 
hatchet  to  construct  their  huts,  their  furniture,  and 
their  carts.  Their  dress  is  a thick  linen  shirt  and 
drawers,  a long  coarse  drugget  coat,  or  a sheepskin 
cloak,  a round  black  felt  hat  lined  with  wool,  and 
shoes  made  from  the  bark  of  trees.  Their  huts  are 
built  with  trunks  of  trees  heaped  on  each  other,  and 
look  like  mere  wood-piles. 


AFRICA. 

This  quarter  of  the  globe  contains  11,500,000  square 
miles,  and  a population  of  60,000,000.  The  Arabs 
and  Moors,  who  chiefly  occupy  the  northern  parts,  are 
of  Asiatic  origin ; but  there  are  four  great  families  of 
nations,  strongly  marked  by  physical  characteristics, 
who  appear  to  be  indigenous  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe. 
These  are  the  Berbers^  who  are  mixed  with  the  Arabs 
and  Moors  ; the  Negroes,  who  pervade  Central  Africa ; 
and  the  Hottentots,  and  the  Caffres,  of  the  south. 

Although  the  northeastern  part  of  Africa,  or  the 
valley  of  the  Nile,  was  once  inhabited  by  civilized 
nations,  who  had  carried  the  arts  and  sciences  to  a 
high  degree  of  improvement,  and  the  northern  coasts 
were  at  subsequent  periods  settled  by  numerous 
Phcenician,  Greek  and  Roman  colonies,  and  still  later 
have  been  the  seat  of  refined  and  polished  Arab  states, 
yet  the  great  mass  of  this  continent  has  remained  a 
stranger  to  the  arts  of  improved  life.  The  natives 
nowhere  have  the  art  of  writing  ; no  alphabet  is  found 
among  them,  and  there  is  nothing  to  indicate  that  they 
have  reached  beyond  some  of  the  simplest  useful  arts. 

To  the  Berber  race  belong  the  Shilloos,  Kabyls, 
Tuaries,  Surhas,  Tibboos,  &c.,  of  the  Atlas  mountains 
and  the  regions  to  the  south  and  east.  There  is  a 
great  diversity,  however,  among  the  nations  referred 


AFRICA. 


281 


to  this  race.  The  light  colored  nations  in  the  upper 
valley  of  the  Nile  are,  by  some,  referred  to  this,  and 
by  others  to  a distinct  race  ; the  Nubians,  Abyssinians, 
Gallas,  Ababdehs,  Shihas,  &c.  are  of  this  number. 
The  Foulahs,  Fellatahs,  or  Fouls,  are  by  some  in- 
cluded among  the  negro  races,  and  by  some  considered 
as  quite  distinct,  both  from  them  and  from  the  Berbers. 

The  negroes  are  physically  characterized  by  woolly 
hair,  black  skin,  projecting  lips,  flattened  nose,  low  and 
retreating  forehead,  and  the  peculiar  form  of  the  legs. 
Morally,  they  are  indolent,  harmless,  easy,  and  friend- 
ly in  their  disposition  ; but  even  in  their  more  civilized 
states,  many  barbarous  usages  and  savage  customs 
prevail.  For  ages,  the  blacks  have  been  sought  for  as 
slaves  in  the  other  parts  of  the  world,  and  even  at 
home,  the  greater  part  of  the  population  is  the  property 
of  the  rest.  Many  of  the  negroes  live  in  the  most 
degraded  state,  without  government,  without  any  re- 
ligion but  the  most  absurd  superstitions,  without  the 
decencies  and  proprieties  of  life,  naked  and  without 
habitations.  Others  are  wandering  shepherds,  and 
still  others  have  organized  regular  governments,  built 
towns,  and  cultivated  the  arts. 


24* 


THE  MOORS  AND  ARABS  OF  AFRICA. 


An  Arab  chief  or  scheik. 


Among  the  inhabitants  of  Africa,  the  Moors  hold  a 
prominent  place.  The  import  of  the  name,  however, 
though  so  widely  diffused  throughout  Africa,  is  ex- 
ceedingly vague.  During  the  middle  ages,  the  profes- 
sors of  the  Mahometan  faith  were  divided  into  Turks 


THE  MOORS  AND  ARABS  OF  AFRICA. 


283 


and  Moors.  At  present  the  latter  title  seems  chiefly 
confined  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  cities  of  Barbary. 

All  Mussulman  towns  exhibit  an  extreme  similarity. 
They  present  the  same  exterior  of  gravity,  stillness 
and  decorum ; the  same  absence  of  all  assemblages  for 
purposes  of  gaiety  or  social  intercourse ; and  the  gloom 
which  necessarily  arises  from  the  entire  exclusion  of 
female  society.  Habitual  indolence  is  here  interrupt- 
ed by  the  mechanical  round  of  religious  ceremonies. 
A total  want  of  all  knowledge  and  curiosity  respecting 
the  arts  and  sciences  characterizes  the  whole  of  this 
once  enlightened  region.  The  outward  aspect  of  the 
streets  is  as  gloomy  as  that  of  the  persons  by  whom 
they  are  tenanted.  They  are  narrow  and  dirty  : the 
walls  of  the  houses  are  of  earth,  and  destitute  of  win- 
dows : gloom  and  nakedness  are  without,  and  a bar- 
barous splendor  is  within.  In  general,  the  Moors 
when  compared  with  the  Turks,  appear  an  inferior 
race.  They  have  the  same  rudeness  and  austerity, 
while  former  piratical  habits,  and  an  unsettled  govern- 
ment, have  rendered  them  more  mean,  turbulent  and 
treacherous. 

The  Arabs  inhabit  nearly  all  the  great  Desert  of 
Zahara.  They  are  divided  into  various  tribes,  who 
live  almost  entirely  on  the  milk  of  their  camels,  and 
wander  from  valley  to  valley,  travelling  nearly  every 
day  in  search  of  food  for  their  beasts,  and  also  for 
themselves.  They  live  in  tents,  formed  of  coarse  cloth 
of  camel’s  hair,  which  they  pull  off  from  the  animals, 
and  spin  with  a hand  spindle.  The  richer  Arabs 
have  one,  two,  and  three  slaves  a-piece,  who  are 
allowed  to  sleep  on  the  same  mat  with  their  masters 


284 


THE  MOORS  AND  ARABS  OF  AFRICA. 


and  mistresses,  and  are  treated  in  all  respects  like  the 
children  of  the  family  as  to  dress,  &:c.  They  are  not 
permitted,  however,  to  marry  with  the  Arab  women, 
and  are  obliged  to  tend  the  camels  and  do  other 
drudgery.  After  a slave  has  served  his  master  for  a 
long  time,  or  has  done  him  some  essential  service,  he 
is  made  free,  and  enters  into  all  the  privileges  of  that 
condition. 

The  Arabs  of  the  desert  are  a lean  and  bony  race. 
They  have  coarse,  thick,  black  hair,  which  the  men 
cut  off  with  knives,  and  leave  sticking  out  in  every  di- 
rection from  the  head.  Their  beard  is  worn  long ; their 
limbs  are  straight,  and  they  can  endure  hunger,  thirst, 
and  fatigue  better,  perhaps,  than  any  other  people  in 
the  world.  Their  dress  is,  in  general,  nothing  more 
than  a piece  of  coarse  camel’s  hair  cloth  tied  round 
the  waist,  and  hanging  down  to  the  knees  : sometimes 
they  wear  nothing  but  a goatskin  apron.  Some  of  the 
more  opulent  wear  a linen  or  cotton  cloth  over  their 
shoulders,  hanging  round  them  something  like  a shirt 
without  sleeves.  Others  have  besides,  a haick,  or 
woollen  blanket,  four  feet  wide  and  four  yards  long, 
which  they  wrap  round  them.  The  women  wear  a 
dress  of  camel’s  hair  cloth  without  sleeves  : this  dress 
contains  a sack  or  large  pocket,  in  which  they  carry 
their  little  children.  Both  men  and  women  go  bare- 
foot. 

Of  government  and  laws,  they  can  hardly  be  said 
to  possess  any.  The  father  of  the  family  is  its  abso- 
lute chief  in  all  respects  : his  wives  and  daughters  are 
considered  mere  slaves.  He  deals  out  the  milk  to 
each  of  them,  nor  dare  any  one  touch  it  until  it  is  thus 


THE  MOORS  AND  ARABS  OF  AFRICA. 


285 


divided.  He  assists  in  milking  the  camels,  and 
then  puts  the  milk  into  a large  wooden  bowl,  which 
has  probably  been  in  the  family  for  ages.  When 
there  is  sufficient  for  a good  drink  all  round,  he  takes 
the  small  bowls,  of  which  they  generally  have  two  or 
three,  and  distributes  the  milk  to  the  family.  These 
vessels,  with  a mat,  comprise  nearly  the  whole  amount 
of  furniture  belonging  to  a household. 

The  Arabs  are  Mahometans,  and  are  very  strict  ob- 
servers of  the  precepts  of  the  Koran.  Their  ablutions, 
for  want  of  water,  are  performed  with  sand.  While 
pursuing  their  journeys,  and  going  in  the  greatest 
haste,  when  the  hour  of  prayer  arrives,  they  halt,  make 
the  camels  lie  down,  take  up  sand  in  both  their  hands 
and  rub  themselves  all  over ; then  facing  toward  the 
east  and  bowing  their  heads,  they  repeat  the  customary 
invocations.  This  is  performed  five  times  a-day  ; nor 
does  any  business  cause  them  to  neglect  it. 

The  life  of  the  Arab,  although  spent  in  wandering 
from  place  to  place,  is  exceedingly  monotonous,  and 
almost  destitute  of  everything  deserving  the  name  of 
amusement,  unless  we  can  so  call  habitual  idleness. 
The  recitation  of  tales  and  poetic  compositions,  during 
the  periods  of  leisure,  in  which  many  of  them  excels 
furnishes  one  of  their  chief  sources  of  recreation. 


THE  NEGEOES 


WheiJ )ve  pass  to  the  south  of  the  Great  Desert,  we 
find  Central  Africa  filled  with  a population  peculiarly 
African.  Among  the  tribes  belonging  to  the  negro  ^ 
race,  a few  are  found  who  have  been  converted  to  the 
Mahometan  faith  : this  new  profession,  however,  is  ^ 
always  qualified  with  a large  mixture  of  their  ancient 


THE  NEGROES. 


287 


superstitions.  In  particular,  it  is  never  accompanied 
with  those  recluse  and  austere  habits  which  form  the 
essence,  as  it  were,  of  a genuine  Mussulman.  Im- 
providence, gentleness,  and  thoughtless  gaiety,  appear 
to  compose  the  leading  features  of  the  negro  charac- 
ter. In  a fertile  soil  which  supplies  the  necessaries 
of  life^  with  little  labor  ; with  few  natural  wants,  and 
strangers  to  artificial  ones,  they  devote  themselves 
wholly  to  pleasure.  Music  and  dancing  are  amuse- 
ments that  are  pursued  with  passion  throughout  all 
Africa.  “From  the  period  of  sunset,”  says  Golbery, 
“ all  Africa  dances.” 

Polygamy  is  still  more  characteristic  of  Pagan  than 
of  Mahometan  Africa ; but  it  is  not  accompanied  with 
that  jealous  and  immuring  system  which  prevails 
among  the  Moors.  In  most  parts  of  Africa,  according 
to  the  best  informed  travellers,  the  sex  possess  nearly 
the  same  degree  of  liberty  as  in  Europe,  without,  in 
general,  abusing  it.  That  exemption  from  labor  in- 
deed, which  is  enjoyed  by  the  inmates  of  Moorish 
harems,  is  unknown  here.  All  the  laborious  tasks  are 
devolved  upon  the  females,  as  upon  slaves.  Each, 
however,  has  a house,  that  is,  a small  cottage  of  her 
own,  and  all  which  it  contains,  being  the  fruit  of  her 
industry,  is  considered  as  her  property. 

Architecture,  as  an  art,  may  be  said  to  be  wholly 
unknown  in  this  part  of  Africa.  The  habkqlions  con- 
sist merely  of  huts,  with  walls  of  earth,  ano^r^K^fs  com- 
posed of  leaves  and  twigs  interwoven,  iftnore  ac- 
commodation is  wanted,  more  huts  are  • i^yilt,  and  a 
circular  enclosure  is  drawn  round  them.  The  palaces  of 
African  monarchs  consist  merely  of  large  collections  of 


288 


THE  NEGROES. 


such  cottages,  forming  a species  of  village,  and  enclosed 
with  a mud  wall.  A residence  composed  of  such 
slight  materials  is  easily  moved.  A week  builds  an 
African  city,  and  an  hour  destroj^s  it.  Hence,  the 
slightest  motives  of  caprice,  the  dread  of  an  enemy,  or 
the  exhaustion  of  the  surrounding  country,  are  suf- 
ficient to  transfer  their  largest  towns  from  one  spot  to 
another.  Agriculture  forms  another  art  by  which  the  pro- 
gress of  a people  in  civilization  may  be  very  accurately 
measured.  The  negroes,  with  very  few  exceptions, 
cultivate  the  ground  to  a certain  extent ; they  are  not, 
however,  acquainted  with  the  plough,  nor  have  they 
skill  sufficient  to  draw  any  service  from  the  lower  an- 
imals. The  human  hand,  aided  by  some  rude  imple- 
ment, forms  the  only  power  employed  in  cultivation. 
Generally  speaking,  only  a certain  spot  round  every 
town  or  village  is  cleared ; the  rest  belongs  to  the  do- 
main of  the  forest.  There  are  few  districts  which  do 
not  afford  large  tracts  of  unoccupied  land  that  are 
considered  the  property  of  the  sovereign  or  community, 
and  are  readily  granted  to  those  who  will  undertake 
the  labor  of  clearing  and  cultivating  them. 

The  negroes  appear  to  entertain  some  vague  notions 
of  the  principles  of  natural  religion ; but  in  general, 
their  sole  reliance  is  placed  upon  fetiches  or  charms, 
and  the  use  of  inanimate  and  insignificant  objects  as  a 
panoply  against  all  the  evils  to  which  human  nature 
is  liable.  ^ k.VL  impression  so  deeply  rooted  in  the  hu- 
man mind  as  that  of  supernatural  agency,  joined  to 
the  ignorance  which  prevails  in  this  state  of  society, 
leaves  open  a wide  field  for  imposture.  Accordingly, 
we  find  that  individuals  of  that  class  are  numerous 


THE  NEGROES. 


289 


who,  by  a pretence  to  superhuman  powers,  maintain  a 
high  influence,  and  extort  ample  gifts  from  their  un- 
enlightened countrymen. 

The  natives  of  Guinea  live  under  a sort  of  federal 
republic,  in  which  a secret  association,  resembling  the 
Black  Tribunal  of  the  middle  ages,  maintains  order 
and  dispenses  justice.  This  is  called  the  poorrah. 
The  principal  members  of  the  inferior  poorrahs,  above 
fifty  years  of  age,  form  the  supreme  poorrah.  The 
mysteries  of  initiation,  accompanied  with  some  dreadful 
test  of  merit,  are  celebrated  in  the  midst  of  a sacred 
forest.  All  the  elements  are  put  in  requisition  to  try 
the  courage  of  the  candidate.  It  is  said  that  he  finds 
himself  assaulted  by  roaring  lions,  who  are  restrained 
by  concealed  chains ; while  a dreadful  howling  is  kept 
up  over  the  whole  forest,  and  a devouring  fire  flames 
around  the  inclosure.  Any  member  who  has  commit- 
ted a crime,  or  betrays  the  secrets  of  the  body,  finds 
himself  visited  by  armed  and  masked  emissaries.  On 
the  utterance  of  the  ominous  words,  ‘‘  The  poorrah 
sends  thee  death,”  his  relations  and  friends  desert  him, 
and  he  is  left  to  the  avenging  sword.  Even  entire 
tribes  which  make  war  in  contempt  of  the  orders  of 
the  great  poorrah^  are  laid  under  the  ban,  and 
oppressed  by  the  united  attacks  of  armed  deputations 
from  all  the  neutral  tribes. 

The  Papels  are  a nation  on  the  coast  of  Guinea, 
who  are  pagans,  worshipping  trees,  cows,  horses,  and 
many  other  visible  objects.  When  their  king  dies,  ac- 
cording to  the  report  of  a traveller,  the  grandees  range 
themselves  round  his  coffin,  which  is  tossed  high  up 
in  the  air  by  some  sturdy  negroes,  and  the  individual 
XIX. — 25 


290 


THE  NEGROES. 


on  whom  the  cofRn  falls,  if  not  killed  by  the  weight  of 
it,  succeeds  to  the  throne. 

According  to  Oldendorp,  the  kingdom  of  Loango 
contains  black  Jews  scattered  throughout  the  country. 
They  are  despised  by  the  negroes,  who  do  not  deign 
even  to  eat  with  them.  They  are  occupied  in  trade, 
and  keep  the  Sabbath  so  strictly  that  they  do  not  even 
talk  on  that  day.  They  have  a separate  burying- 
ground  very  far  from  any  habitation.  The  tombs  are 
constructed  with  masonry,  and  ornamented  with  He- 
brew inscriptions,  the  singularity  of  which  excites  the 
laughter  of  the  negroes,  who  discern  in  them  only 
serpents,  lizards  and  other  reptiles.  In  the  kingdom 
of  Congo  is  an  order  of  magicians,  who  pretend  to  the 
power  of  raising  the  dead ; and  their  juggles,  practised 
upon  a dead  corpse,  in  the  presence  of  the  Christian 
missionaries,  so  far  imposed  upon  them,  that  they 
imagined  they  saw  the  dead  move,  and  heard  in- 
articulate sounds  proceeding  from  the  mouth  of  the 
corpse.  It  has  been  conjectured  that  this  was  a gal- 
vanic operation. 

The  Hottentots  dress  in  sheep-skins  with  the  wool 
on.  They  smear  themselves  with  fat  and  soot,  and 
are  so  used  to  it,  that  when  washed,  a Hottentot  feels 
that  he  has  lost  his  clothes.  Yet  this  coating  is  said 
to  be  really  useful,  in  defending  them  from  the  solar 
rays,  and  preventing  cutaneous  disorders.  All  their 
habits  of  life  are  slovenly  and  filthy.  When  a sheep 
or  an  ox  is  killed,  they  indulge  in  beastly  gluttony, 
ripping  open  the  belly  of  the  animal  while  yet  half  alive, 
and  tearing  out  the  entrails,  which  they  throw  on  the 
coals  and  greedily  devour.  Their  kraals  or  villages 


THE  NEGROES. 


291 


compose  a labyrinth  of  little  conical  hovels,  formed  of 
twigs  and  earth,  and  so  low  that  the  inmates  cannot 
stand  upright.  They  have  an  aspect  of  sluggish  stu- 
pidity which  seems,  in  a great  measure,  caused  by  the 
degrading  bondage  in  which  they  are  held.  They 
pursue  wild  animals  with  swiftness  and  dexterity,  di- 
recting with  a sure  aim  their  darts  and  arrows.  They 
carry  on  various  little  manufactures,  tanning  and  dress- 
ing skins,  forming  mats  of  flags  and  bulrushes,  bow- 
strings from  the  sinews  of  animals,  and  even  mould- 
ing iron  into  knives. 


A Bushman. 

The  Bosjesmans  or  Bushmen  appear  to  belong  to 
the  same  original  race  with  the  Hottentots,  but  from 


292 


THE  NEGROES. 


the  rude  haunts  which  they  occupy,  they  have  pre- 
served a precarious  independence.  Of  all  human  be- 
ings, their  condition  appears  to  be  one  of  the  most  for- 
lorn. Their  food  is  obtained  only  by  scrambling  over 
the  rocks  in  pursuit  of  wild  animals,  swallowing  the 
larvae  of  ants  and  locusts,  or  carrying  off  cattle  in  wild 
forays  from  the  plantations  in  the  plain  beneath.  Yet 
they  display  energy,  activity  and  even  gaiety.  Con- 
siderable ingenuity  is  shown  in  the  pictures  of  animals 
drawn  by  them  upon  the  rocks.  On  moonlight  nights 
they  dance  without  intermission  from  sunset  till  dawn, 
and  sometimes,  when  cheered  by  the  prospect  of  fine 
weather,  continue  this  exercise  for  several  days  and 
nights.  They  live  in  a state  of  continual  warfare 
with  the  European  settlers  at  tlie  Cape,  not  only  car- 
rying off  their  cattle,  but  putting  to  death  in  a cruel 
manner  all  persons  who  fall  into  their  power.  The 
Bushmen  have  been  described  as  the  most  degraded  of 
the  human  race.  Campbell,  the  traveller,  met  a horde, 
in  which  only  one  had  a name,  and  he  was  called  the 
“ Old  Boy.”  A missionary  asked  one  of  them, — 
What  is  the  chief  end  of  man?”  The  answer  was, 
“To  steal  oxen.” 

The  Caffres  are,  perhaps,  of  all  nations  the  most 
completely  pastoral.  They  lead  a roaming  life,  ill- 
suited  to  agriculture ; they  have  not  applied  themselves 
to  fishing,  and  game  is  scarce  in  the  country  they  in- 
habit; but  they  understand  thoroughly  the  manage- 
ment of  cattle.  The  men  not  only  tend,  but  milk  the 
cows,  and  have  the  skill,  by  a particular  modulation 
of  the  voice,  either  to  send  out  a herd  to  graze,  or  re- 
call it  to  the  enclosures.  They  subsist  generally  on 


THE  NEGROES. 


293 


milk,  and  never  kill  a cow  but  on  high  occasions. 
They  dress  in  leather,  which  they  have  the  art  to  ren- 
der very  pliant ; and  they  wear  many  ornaments  of 
beads,  rings,  carved  bones,  &c.  In  their  huts,  they 
sil  on  the  skulls  of  oxen,  with  the  horns  attached. 
They  hold  hospitality  as  sacred,  and  are  very  kind  to 
each  other.  A whole  kraal  takes  an  interest  in  ac- 
commodating a difference  between  two  individuals. 
The  government  is  that  of  chiefs,  whose  authority, 
however,  is  very  limited.  They  punish  offences  by 
whipping  with  rods,  by  exposure  to  clusters  of  black 
ants,  by  burning  with  hot  stones,  by  inclosing  the  of- 
fender in  the  cleft  of  a tree,  and  by  death  from  clubs, 
spears  or  drowning. 

Madagascar,  a large  and  fertile  island,  lies  upon  the 
eastern  coast  of  Africa,  and  contains  a population  of 
2,000,000  souls.  Among  these  there  are  white,  black 
and  tawny  tribes,  apparently  embracing  the  descend- 
ants of  Arabs,  Negroes  and  Malays.  The  latter  con- 
stitute the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants,  and  are  the  ruling 
people.  They  are  all  in  a state  of  extreme  barbarism ; 
the  dress  is  slight,  and  the  dwellings  are  mere  huts. 
They  have  no  temples  or  mosques ; their  religion 
seems  to  consist  in  various  superstitions,  blended  with 
some  Jewish  rites,  such  as  sacrifices,  circumcision,  &:c. 

In  1828,  nearly  the  whole  island  was  subject  to  a 
powerful  prince,  who  had  established  a regular  gov- 
ernment, and  introduced  some  European  arts ; but  he 
was  poisoned  by  his  queen,  and  his  death  became  the 
signal  for  a return  to  anarchy. 


25* 


ABYSSINIA. 


The  manners  of  the  Abyssinians,  under  a slight 
semblance  of  civilization  derived  from  Arabia  and 
Egypt,  present  indications  of  the  deepest  barbarism. 
Indeed  their  domestic  life  is  marked  by  some  habits 
more  gross  and  revolting  than  any  that  have  been  wit- 
nessed among  the  most  savage  tribes. 

Their  dress  consists  chiefly  of  a large  cotton  mantle, 
with  close  drawers,  and  a girdle.  Eound  the  head  they 
put  a white  wrapper,  which  leaves  the  crown  exposed. 
Many  chiefs,  as  a mark  of  dignity,  wear  an  ornament 
in  the  shape  of  a horn,  projecting  from  their  forehead, 
which,  with  their  long  beard,  gives  them  a very  wild 
and  rough  appearance.  All  their  houses  are  built  in  a 
conical  form,  and  with  thatched  roofs.  Some  attempt 
at  magnificence  is  made  in  their  churches,  also  roofed 
with  thatch,  but  surrounded  by  an  arcade  formed  of 
pillars  of  cedar ; and  being  placed  on  the  summits  of 
little  hills,  they  give  the  country  a picturesque  appear- 
ance. The  Abyssinians  are  extremely  fond  of  paint- 
ings, or  rather  daubings,  made  on  the  walls  of  the 
churches  and  of  the  houses  of  the  great. 

As  respects  food,  tbiiey  have  a most  revolting  cus- 
tom: that  of  devouring  raw  flesh.  Their  manners 
are  not  less  distinguished  by  licentiousness  than  by 
cruelty.  Intoxication  is  very  prevalent,  produced 


THE  ABYSSINIANS. 


295 


partly  by  hydromel,  but  chiefly  by  houza^  a liquor  pe 
culiar  to  the  country.  Marriage  hardly  exists  at  all 
in  Abyssinia.  The  lover  consults  only  the  parents  of 
the  bride,  and  having  obtained  their  consent,  seizes 
her  and  carries  her  home  on  his  shoulders.  Some- 
times it  is  rendered  a little  more  formal  by  the  couple 
going  to  church  two  or  three  weeks  afterward  and 
taking  the  sacrament  together.  A traveller  met  a 
lady  at  Gondar  in  company  with  six  persons  who  had 
been  her  husbands. 

The  Abyssinians  profess  the  same  form  of  Chris- 
tianity with  the  Copts  of  Egypt,  and  even  own  the 
supremacy  of  the  Patriarch  of  Cairo.  From  him  the 
Abuna,  or  head  of  the  Abyssinian  church,  receives  his 
investiture.  They  combine  with  their  Christian  pro- 
fession many  Judaical  tenets ; at  the  same  time  they 
share  amply  in  the  Catholic  superstitions.  Their 
churches  are  numerous,  and  adorned  with  paintings ; 
but  images  and  sculptured  forms  of  any  description 
are  considered  as  unlawful.  They  have  monaste- 
ries, but  the  inmates  are  not  immured  in  such  strict 
seclusion  as  in  Europe.  On  the  whole,  they  are  little 
under  the  influence  of  Christian  principles. 

The  Galla  are  a ferocious  tribe,  dwelling  on  the 
skirts  of  Abyssinia  proper,  and  presenting  an  aspect 
of  barbarism  surpassing  even  that  of  the  people  we 
have  just  described.  Their  favorite  ornament  is  com- 
posed of  the  entrails  of  their  oxen,  which,  without  any 
.superfluous  care  in  cleaning  them,  are  plaited  in  the 
hair,  and  tied  as  girdles  round  the  waist.  The  be- 
smearing the  body  with  melted  grease  completes  the 
embellishment.  Their  career  is  marked  by  indiscrim- 


296 


THE  ABYSSINIANS. 


n 


inate  massacre ; they  spare  neither  sex  nor  age,  unless 
from  the  anticipation  of  gain  by  carrying  off  and  sell- 
ing prisoners.  In  Europe,  their  soldiers  would  be 
considered  as  a species  of  light  cavalry ; they  perform 
immense  marches,  swim  rivers,  and  endure  incredible 
fatigues.  Being  almost  destitute  of  iron,  their  arms 
consist  of  little  more  than  wooden  javelins,  with  the 
points  hardened  in  the  fire.  They  make  a most  furious 
onset,  with  shrieks  and  savage  cries,  which  strike  ter- 
ror into  all  but  the  firmest  adversaries  ; but  if  this  first 
shock  be  withstood,  they  are  ill  fitted  to  sustain  a reg- 
ular battle.  They  have  neither  priests  nor  temples ; 
but  they  have  been  observed  to  hold  certain  trees  as 
sacred,  to  worship  the  moon  and  stars,  and  they  are 
said  to  have  some  notion  of  a future  state. 


EGYPT. 


Mosque  at  Cairo, 

Egypt  is  inhabited  by  a mixed  population  of  Mos- 
lem Arabs  and  Copts,  or  descendants  of  the  ancient 


298 


EGYPT. 


Egyptians.  The  dress  does  not  differ  essentially  from 
that  of  the  Turks  in  Europe  and  Asia  Minor.  The 
Copts  distinguish  themselves  from  the  Moslems  by  the 
color  of  their  turbans.  The  few  Christians  and  Jews 
whom  the  country  contains,  preserve  the  same  dis- 
tinction. 

The  Egyptian  generally  takes  his  pipe  with  him 
wherever  he  goes,  except  to  the  mosque,  or  he  has  a 
servant  to  carry  it,  though  it  is  not  a common  custom 
to  smoke  while  riding  or  walking.  The  tobacco- 
pouch  he  crams  into  his  bosom.  A handkerchief,  em- 
broidered with  colored  silks  and  gold,  and  neatly  fold- 
ed, is  also  placed  in  the  bosom.  Many  persons  of  the 
middle  orders,  who  wish  to  avoid  being  thought  rich, 
wear  a long  black  gown  of  cotton  over  the  common 
Turkish  dress  of  more  gay  and  costly  materials. 

It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  different  costumes  of  the 
females,  some  of  which  are  not  devoid  of  elegance. 
The  walking-dress  is  furnished  with  a long  veil, 
which  leaves  the  eyes  exposed,  while  the  face  is  stu- 
diously concealed.  It  is  said  that  the  fashions  of  the 
females  have  varied  so  little,  that  from  the  days  of  the 
patriarchs  to  those  of  the  pashas,  it  is  doubtful  whether 
a single  flounce  has  been  taken  away  from  their  gowns 
or  added  to  them. 

The  houses  of  Cairo  are  generally  built  with  a 
foundation  story  of  soft  calcareous  stone,  painted  with 
stripes  of  red  and  white.  The  superstructure,  the 
front  of  which  generally  projects  about  two  feet,  and 
is  supported  by  corbels  or  piers,  is  of  brick,  sometimes 
plastered.  The  roof  is  flat,  and  covered  with  a coat 
of  plaster.  The  front  door  is  often  highly  ornamented. 


EGYPT. 


'299 


The  ground-floor  apartments  next  the  street  have 
small  wooden  grated  windows  placed  sufficiently  high 
to  render  it  impossible  for  a person  passing  by  in  the 
street,  even  on  horseback,  to  see  through  them.  The 


House  at  Cairo. 


windows  of  the  upper  apartments  generally  project  a 
foot  or  two,  and  are  formed  of  turned  wooden  lattice- 
work,  which  is  so  close  that  it  shuts  out  much  of  the 
light  and  sun,  and  screens  the  inmates  of  the  house 
from  the  view  of  persons  without,  while  at  the  same 
time  it  admits  the  air.  The  houses  for  the  most  part 
are  two  or  three  stories  high,  and  almost  every  house 
that  is  sufficiently  large,  encloses  an  open,  unpaved 
court.  The  principal  apartments  look  into  this. 
Every  house  has  a fountain.  No  chambers  are  fur- 
nished as  bed-rooms ; the  bed  in  the  daytime  is  rolled 
up  and  placed  on  one  side,  or  in  an  adjoining  closet ; 


300  ' 


EGYPT. 


in  summer  many  people  sleep  on  the  house-top.  For 
meals,  a round  tray  is  brought  in  and  placed  upon  a 
low  stool,  and  the  company  sit  around  it  on  the  floor. 
The  supply  of  furniture  is  very  scanty.  There  is  no 
fire-place  except  in  the  kitchen ; the  room  is  warmed, 
when  necessary,  by  burning  charcoal  in  a chafing-dish. 
Many  houses  have  at  the  top,  a sloping  shed  of  boards 
directed  toward  the  north  or  north-west,  to  convey  be- 
low the  cool  breezes  which  blow  from  those  quarters. 

In  the  plan  of  almost  every  house  there  is  an  utter 
want  of  regularity.  The  apartments  are  generally  of 
different  heights,  so  that  a person  must  ascend  one, 
two,  or  more  steps  to  pass  from  one  chamber  to  the 
next.  The  principal  aim  of  the  architect  is  to  render 
the  house  as  private  as  possible,  particularly  that  part 
of  it  which  is  inhabited  by  the  women ; and  not  to 
make  any  window  in  such  a situation  as  to  overlook 
the  apartments  of  another  house.  Another  object  of 
the  architect  in  building  a house  for  a person  of  wealth 
or  rank,  is  to  make  a secret  door  from  which  the 
tenant  may  make  his  escape  in  case  of  danger  from 
an  arrest  or  an  attempt  at  assassination, — or  by  which 
to  give  access  and  egress  to  a paramour.  It  is  also 
common  to  make  a hiding-place  for  treasure  in  some 
part  of  the  house. 

Very  few  large  or  handsome  houses  are  to  be  seen 
in  Egypt,  except  in  the  metropolis,  and  a few  other 
towns.  The  dwellings  of  the  lower  orders,  particu- 
larly those  of  the  peasants,  are  of  a very  mean  descrip- 
tion ; they  are  mostly  built  of  unbaked  bricks  cement- 
ed together  with  mud.  The  greater  number  comprise 
two  or  more  apartments,  though  very  few  are  two 


EGYPT. 


301 


stories  high.  One  apartment  contains  a great  oven, 
on  the  top  of  which  the  inhabitants  sleep  in  winter, 
after  lighting  a fire  within.  The  roofs  of  the  houses 
are  thatched  with  palm-leaves  or  millet-stalks.  Large 
pigeon-houses  are  sometimes  built  upon  the  housetops. 

The  Egyptian  is  a very  early  rise?,  and  he  retires 
to  Sleep  at  an  early  hour  : it  is  his  dv.ty  to  be  up  and 
dressed  before  day-break,  when  he  should  say  the 
morning  prayers.  In  general,  while  the  master  of  a 
family  is  performing  the  religious  ablution  and  saying 
his  prayers,  his  wife  or  slave  is  preparing  for  him  a 
cup  of  coffee,  and  filling  his  pipe,  which  she  presents 
to  him  as  soon  as  he  has  acquitted  himself  of  his 
religious  duties.  Many  Egyptians  take  nothing  before 
noon  but  the  cup  of  coffee  and  the  pipe ; others  take  a 
light  meal  at  an  early  hour.  The  breakfast  consists 
of  bread,  eggs.,  butter,  cheese,  milk,  cream,  &c.,  and  a 
very  common  dish  for  breakfast  is  stewed  beans.  The 
Egyptians  are  very  fond  of  pure  and  strong  coffee. 

If  he  can  com^enienily  afford  to  keep  a horse,  mule, 
or  ass,  or  to  hire  an  ass,  the  Egyptian  is  seldom  seen 
walking  far  beyond  the  threshold  of  his  own  house. 
But  very  few  people  of  Cairo,  or  of  the  other  towns, 
venture  to  expose  themselves  to  the  suspicion  of  pos- 
sessing great  wealth.  Asses  are  most  generally  used 
for  riding  through  the  narrow  and  crowded  streets  of 
Cairo,  and  there  are  many  for  hire ; their  pace  is  an 
easy  amble.  A horseman  is  usually  preceded  by  a 
servant  or  two  to  clear  the  and  for  the  same  pur- 
pose a servant  generally  runs  beside  or  behind  the  ass, 
calling  out  to  the  passengers  to  move  out  of  the  way 
to  the  right  or  left,  and  to  take  care  of  their  feet, 

XIX. — 26 


302 


EGYPT. 


heels,  &c.  If  he  have  no  regular  business  to  employ 
him,  the  Egyptian  spends  the  greater  part  of  the  day 
in  riding,  paying  visits  or  making  purchases ; or  in 
smoking  and  sipping  coffee ; chatting  with  a friend  at 
home ; or  he  passes  an  hour  or  more  of  the  morning 
in  the  public  bath.  At  noon,  he  again  says  his  pray- 
ers, or  at  least,  such  is  his  duty.  Directly  after  mid- 
day, he  dines ; then  takes  a pipe  and  a cup  of  coffee, 
and  in  hot  weather,  a nap.  Often  he  retires  to  recline 
in  the  harem,  where  a wife  or  female  slave  watches 
over  his  repose,  or  rubs  the  soles  of  his  feet  with  her 
hands.  On  such  occasions,  and  at  other  times  when 
he  wishes  to  enjoy  privacy,  every  visiter  is  told  by  the 
servant  that  he  is  in  the  harem  ; and  no  friend  expects 
him  to  be  called  thence  unless  on  very  urgent  business. 
Smoking  and  coffee  fill  up  the  afternoon,  and  at  sun- 
set he  takes  supper.  The  Egyptians  eat  fast,  though 
in  moderation  as  to  quantity : their  only  drink  at 
meals  is  the  water  of  the  Nile,  or  at  the  tables  of  the 
rich,  sherbet.  At  other  times,  like  the  European 
Mussulmans,  they  indulge  in  wine. 

The  Egyptian  tradesman  repairs  soon  after  break- 
fast, to  his  shop  or  warehouse,  and  continues  there  till 
near  sunset.  He  has  leisure  to  smoke  as  much  as  he 
likes,  and  his  customers  often  smoke  with  him.  A 
great  portion  of  the  day  is  spent  in  chatting  with  them 
or  with  his  next  or  opposite  neighbor.  When  he 
leaves  his  shop  for  half  an  hour,  he  either  relies  for 
the  protection  of  his  property  upon  his  neighbors,  or 
he  hangs  a net  before  the  door.  He  seldom  thinks  it 
necessary  to  close  and  fasten  the  shutters,  except  at 
night,  or  when  he  goes  to  the  mosque.  Making  a 


EGYPT. 


303 


purchase  is  a very  tiresome  process,  and  is  never  ac- 
complished without  a vast  deal  of  higgling.  When  a 
bargain  is  concluded,  the  servant  of  the  purchaser 
receives  from  the  shop-keeper  a small  piece  of  money, 
which,  if  not  offered,  he  scruples  not  to  demand. 

Cairo  contains  above  a thousand  coffee-houses,  to 
which  the  people  resort  to  smoke  and  drink.  They 
have  an  intoxicating  beverage  called  hashish^  brewed 
from  hemp-seed ; this  last  is  also  smoked  like  opium  ; 
either  way  it  produces  exhilaration  that  leads  to  bois- 
terous mirth.  The  word  hashashin^  which  signifies 
smokers  or  eaters  of  hemp,  is  applied  to  noisy  and 
riotous  people  as  an  appellation  of  obloquy,  and  is  the 
origin  of  our  word  assassin,  a name  first  applied  to  a 
tribe  of  Arab  warriors  in  Syria  in  the  time  of  the  Cru- 
sades, who  made  use  of  intoxicating  and  soporiferous 
dnigs  to  render  their  enemies  insensible.  The  use  of 
opium  is  not  so  common  in  Egypt  as  in  many  other 
couniries  of  the  East. 

Bathing  is  the  great  luxury.  Cairo  has  sixty  or 
seventy  public  baths ; these  buildings  contain  each 
several  apartments,  all  paved  with  marble ; the  inner 
rooms  are  covered  with  domes,  having  round,  glazed 
windows.  The  bather  is  first  exposed  to  a steaming 
process,  after  which  he  is  taken  in  hand  by  an  opera- 
tor, who  cracks  almost  every  joint  in  his  frame.  He 
wrings  the  body  first  one  way  and  then  the  other,  to 
make  the  joints  of  the  backbone  crack.  Even  the 
neck  is  made  to  crack  twice  by  wrenching  the  head 
round  each  way,  which  produces  a sensation  rather 
alarming  to  an  inexperienced  person  ; and  each  ear  is 
generally  twisted  round  till  it  cracks.  The  limbs  are 


304 


EGYPT. 


wrested  with  apparent  violence,  but  with  so  much  skill 
that  no  injury  is  ever  done ; the  main  object  of  this 
process  is  to  render  the  joints  supple.  The  operator 
then  kneads  or  shampoos  the  bather’s  flesh  and  rasp? 
the  soles  of  his  feet.  After  bathing,  coffee  and  a pipe 
are  introduced. 

Many  modern  writers  upon  Egypt  have  given  sur- 
prising accounts  of  a class  of  men  in  this  country  sup^ 
posed,  like  the  ancient  Psylli  of  Cyrenaica,  to  possess 
a secret  art,  mentioned  in  the  Bible,  enabling  them  to 
secure  themselves  from  the  poison  of  serpents.  These 
men  travel  over  every  part  of  Egypt,  and  find  abun- 
dant employment.  The  serpent-charmer  professes  to 
discover,  without  the  use  of  his  eyes, — perhaps  by  a 
peculiar  smell,  whether  there  are  any  serpents  in  a 
house,  and  if  there  be,  to  attract  them  to  him,  as  the 
fowler,  by  the  fascination  of  his  voice,  allures  the  bird 
into  his  net.  As  the  serpent  seeks  the  darkest  places 
in  which  to  hide  himself,  the  charmer  has  in  most 
cases  to  exercise  his  skill  in  an  obscure  chamber, 
where  he  might  easily  take  a serpent  from  his  bosom, 
bring  it  to  the  door,  and  affirm  that  he  found  it  in  the 
apartment,  for  no  one  would  venture  to  enter  with  him 
after  having  bee  a assured  of  the  presence  of  one  of 
these  reptiles  within.  But  he  is  often  required  to  per- 
form in  the  full  light  of  day,  surrounded  by  spectators  ; 
and  incredulous  persons  have  searched  him  before 
hand,  and  even  stripped  him  naked,  yet  his  success 
has  been  complete.  He  assumes  an  air  of  mystery, 
strikes  the  walls  with  a short  stick,  whistles,  makes  a 
chuckling  noise  with  his  tongue,  spits  on  the  ground, 
and  generally  says,  “ I adjure  you  by  Allah,  if  ye  be 


EGYPT. 


305 


above,  or  if  ye  be  below,  that  ye  come  forth.  I adjure 
you  by  the  most  great  name,  if  ye  be  obedient,  come 
forth,  and  if  ye  be  disobedient,  die,  die,  die ! ” The 
serpent  is  generally  dislodged  by  his  stick  from  a fis- 
sure in  the  wall,  or  drops  from  the  ceiling  of  the  room. 
There  appears  little  doubt  that  these  persons  are  gene- 
rally acquainted  with  some  real  physical  means  of 
discovering  the  presence  of  serpents  without  seeing 
them,  and  of  attracting  them  from  their  lurking-places. 
Some  of  them  eat  live  serpents  of  a venomous  kind  at 
religious  festivals ; but  this  practice  is  now  prohibited 
by  authority,  as  contrary  to  the  injunctions  of  the 
Koran. 


Marriage  procession. 


In  religion,  the  Egyptians  are  Mahometans,  though 
the  Copts  profess  Christianity.  A day  or  two  before 
a wedding,  the  bride  elect  goes  in  procession  to  the 
26* 


306 


EGYPT. 


public  bath — a canopy  of  silk  being  borne  over  hjr 
head  by  four  men.  On  returning,  she  takes  a lump  of 
henna,  and  going  round  to  her  guests  solicits  a contri- 
bution of  money.  Each  person  generally  sticks  a 
small  piece  of  gold  in  this,  which  she  appropriates, 
and  then  applies  the  henna  to  her  feet.  The  evening 
of  this  ceremony  is  called  the  night  of  the  henna. 
The  next  day  she  proceeds  to  the  harem  of  her  lord, 
being  escorted  by  her  friends. 

When  a person  dies,  the  Egyptians  sprinkle  the  dead 
body  with  rosewater,  camphor,  and  other  perfumes  ; 
stuff  the  ears  and  nostrils  with  cotton,  bind  the  ankles, 
and  lay  the  hands  on  the  breast.  Being  placed  on  a 
bier,  it  is  borne  to  the  burial  ground  by  a procession 
of  choristers,  with  the  relations  and  domestics  of  the 


deceased.  Passages  from  the  Koran,  with  a dirge, 
are  recited  during  the  way.  The  bier  is  first  carried 


EGYPT. 


307 


to  the  mosques,  where  prayers  are  repeated  over  it. 
After  a few  minor  rites,  the  funeral  train  proceeds  and 
deposits  the  body  in  the  tomb. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  traits  in  the  modem 
Egyptian  superstition  is  the  belief  in  written  charms. 
The  composition  of  most  of  these  amulets  is  founded 
upon  magic,  and  occasionally  employs  the  pen  of 
almost  every  village  schoolmaster  in  the  country.  A 
person  of  this  profession,  however,  seldom  pursues  the 
study  of  magic  further  than  to  acquire  the  formulae  of 
a few  charms,  most  commonly  consisting  of  passages 
of  the  Koran,  and  names  of  God,  together  with  those 
of  spirits,  genii,  prophets,  or  eminent  saints,  intermixed 
with  combinations  of  numerals,  and  with  diagrams,  all 
of  which  are  supposed  to  have  great  secret  virtues. 
The  ninety-nine  names  or  epithets  of  God,  comprising 
all  the  divine  attributes,  written  on  paper,  frequently 
repeated,  and  worn  on  the  person,  are  supposed  to 
make  the  wearer  a particular  object  for  the  exercise  of 
divine  beneficence.  In  like  manner,  it  is  believed  that 
the  ninety-nine  names  or  titles,  &c.  of  the  Prophet, 
written  upon  anything,  compose  a charm  which,  if 
placed  in  a house,  and  frequently  read  from  beginning 
to  end,  will  keep  away  every  misfortune,  all  diseases, 
infirmity,  the  evil  eye,  enchantment,  burning,  anxiety, 
grief  and  trouble.  Similar  virtues  are  ascribed  to  a 
charm  composed  of  the  names  of  the  Seven  Sleepers 
or  companions  of  the  cave,  together  with  the  name  of 
their  dog,  whose  history  has  figured  under  different 
shapes  in  various  agreeable  fictions,  from  the  age  of 
Epimenides  the  Cretan  to  that  of  Rip  Van  Winkle. 
These  names  are  sometimes  engraved  on  the  round 


308 


EGYPT. 


tray  of  tinned  copper,  which,  placed  on  a stool,  forms 
the  table  for  dinner  and  supper.  Another  charm  sup- 
posed to  have  similar  efficacy,  is  composed  of  the 
names  of  those  paltry  articles  of  property  which  the 
Prophet  left  at  his  decease,  namely  his  rosaries,  his 
staff,  toothpick,  sandals,  coat,  wash-bowl,  white  mule, 
camel,  &c. 

The  belief  of  the  Egyptians  in  the  evil  eye,  is  an 
established  superstition.  It  is  a custom  among  the 
higher  and  middle  classes  in  Cairo,  on  the  occasion  of 
a marriage,  to  hang  a chandelier  in  the  street  before 
the  bridegroom’s  house  ; and  it  often  happens  that  a 
crowd  is  collected  to  see  this  suspended.  In  such  a 
case  it  is  a common  practice  to  divert  the  attention  of 
spectators  by  throwing  down  and  breaking  a large  jar, 
or  by  some  other  artifice,  lest  an  “ envious  eye,”  ma- 
lignantly exercised,  should  cause  the  chandelier  to  fall. 
Mr.  Lane  relates  an  anecdote  to  the  following  effect. 
A friend  of  his  told  him  one  day,  that  just  before,  he 
saw  a camel  carrying  two  very  large  jars  of  oil : a 
woman  stopped  before  it  and  exclaimed,  “ God  preserve 
us  ! what  big  jars  ! ” The  driver  of  the  camel  did  not 
tell  her  to  bless  the  Prophet,  as  he  should  have  done, 
and  the  camel,  a few  minutes  after,  fell  down  and 
broke  both  the  jars  and  one  of  its  own  legs. 

Most  of  the  respectable  Moslem  Egyptians,  both  at 
Cairo  and  Alexandria,  approach  pretty  near  to  Eu- 
ropean manners  in  the  externals  of  behavior,  such  as 
sitting  on  chairs,  eating  with  knives  and  forks,  making 
use  of  porcelain,  glass,  &c.  Ibrahim  Pacha  has,  or 
had,  a French  cook. 

One  of  the  principal  Egyptian  amusements  consists 


EGYPT. 


309 


in  firing  at  a target ; they  are  good  marksmen,  but 
take  a long  time  in  aiming.  Mehemet  All  himself 
can  strike  an  earthen  pot  a hundred  paces  out  at  sea, 
and  Ibrahim  has  been  known  to  lounge  on  a cushion 
in  the  upper  apartments  of  his  palace,  and  amuse  him- 
self by  firing  with  a rifle  at  the  water-skins  carried  by 
the  sakas^  or  water-bearers.  If  he  pierced  the  skin 
and  let  out  all  the  water,  he  enjoyed  the  surprise  and 
vexation  of  the  poor  saka  ; but  if  he  happened  to 
wound  the  man,  he  would  promise,  with  apparent  con- 
trition, that  the  sufferer  should  never  want  bread  while 
he  himself  had  any  to  eat,  though  it  is  said  he  never 
was  known  to  keep  his  word.  The  pastimes  of  des- 
potism sometimes  bear  a strange  resemblance  in  dif- 
ferent countries.  The  Duke  of  Charolois  amused 
himself  with  bringing  down  plumbers  and  tilers  from 
the  roofs  of  houses  in  a similar  way.  The  man- 
ners of  the  Egyptian  princes,  however,  are  said  to 
have  lately  improved  in  this  respect. 

At  Cairo,  as  in  ail  other  capital  cities,  the  inhabit- 
ants, engaged  in  a great  variety  of  occupations,  com- 
pelled to  exercise  a superior  degree  of  ingenuity,  and 
brought  into  frequent  contact  with  strangers,  displaj^ 
considerable  sociability  and  politeness  ; and  the  arti- 
zans  and  shopkeepers  are  distinguished  for  their  indus- 
try and  attention  to  business.  When  not  engaged  in 
the  exercise  of  their  professions,  or  in  their  religious 
duties,  they  are  generally  found  in  the  coffee-houses 
listening  to  the  relation  of  the  story-teller,  or  at  the 
public  places,  where  mountebanks,  jugglers  and  danc- 
ing girls  exhibit  their  performances. 

The  public  recitation  of  romances  affords  a favorite 

T 


310 


EGYPT. 


amusement  to  the  Egyptian  idler.  The  reciter  sits  on 
a raised  seat  in  the  coffee-house,  and  his  auditors  on 
stools  around  him,  sipping  their  coffee,  smoking  their 
pipes,  listening  to  the  story,  and  all  highly  amused, 
not  only  with  the  tale,  but  also  with  the  lively  and 
dramatic  manner  of  the  narrator.  He  receives  a small 
sum  of  money  from  the  keeper  of  the  coffee-house  for 
attracting  customers  : his  hearers  are  not  obliged  to 
contribute  anything,  though  some  of  them  give  him  a 
trifle.  A favorite  romance  is  the  Life  of  Abu  Zeyd,  a 
tale  said  to  be  founded  upon  events  which  happened 
in  the  third  century  of  the  Hejira ; and  is  believed  to 
have  been  written  not  long  after  that  period,  though  it 
has  been  subsequently  much  altered.  It  is  a long 
story,  half  prose  and  half  poetry,  partly  narrative,  and 
partly  dramatic.  As  a literary  work  it  is  thought  to 
have  little  merit  by  Europeans,  but  from  its  being  so 
general  a favorite,  it  must  certainly  possess  strong  at- 
tractions. It  also  bus  considerable  value  and  interest 
as  illustrative  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
Beduin  Arabs.  The  narrator  always  commits  his 
subject  to  memory,  and  recites  without  a book.  The 
poetry  he  chants,  and  after  each  verse  he  plays  a few 
notes  on  a viol  with  a single  chord,  which  is  called  the 
Abu  Zeydee  viol,  from  its  being  used  only  in  these 
recitations.  There  are  about  fifty  of  the  professed 
Abu  Zeydee  rhapsodists  in  Cairo. 


ASIA 


Asia  was  the  cradle  of  the  human  family,  and  to 
this  quarter  we  must  look  for  the  origin  of  the  various 
tribes  which  now  inhabit  the  earth ; yet  two  of  the 
great  races  of  mankind — the  Negro  and  the  American 
Indian — are  not  now  to  be  found  within  its  limits. 
Still,  there  is  no  quarter  of  the  globe  where  human 
society  presents  such  a diversity  of  aspects  as  here. 

Amid  its  population  of  five  hundred  millions,  we 
find  every  form  and  shade  of  superstition  ; every  sys- 
tem and  degree  of  despotism  ; and  every  stage  of  civi- 
lization from  the  barbaric  pomp  of  the  Indian  and 
Chinese  courts  to  the  skin-clad  Samoide  of  the  arctic 
shores.  As  compared  with  the  standing  of  Christen- 


312 


ASIA. 


dom,  Asia  presents  a gloomy  picture  of  moral,  mental, 
and  social  darkness,  where  ideas  of  civil  liberty  are 
unknown,  where  true  religion  casts  only  here  and 
there  a strip  of  sunlight,  and  where  science  has  scarcely 
begun  its  dawn. ' 

Asia  contains  nearly  one  third  part  of  the  land  sur- 
face of  the  earth  ; the  following  table  exhibits  its  gene- 
ral divisions,  with  the  population  of  each. 


Russia  in  Asia,  - - . 

Turkey  in  Asia,  - - . 

Arabia,  / * “ * * 

Persia,  - - . - 

Afghanistan  and  Beloochistan, 
Independent  Tartary,  - 
Chinese  Empire,  - - - 

Japan,  - - - - 

Hindostan,  - - - - 

Farther  India,  - - - 


7.000. 000 
12,000,000 
10,000,000 
12,000,000 

10.000. 000 
7,000,000 

340.000. 000 
12,000,000 

140.000. 000 
20,000,000 


Total,  - - - . 570,000,000 

It  may  be  proper  to  state  that  there  is  great  diversity 
in  the  estimates  of  Chinese  population,  some  authors 
rating  it  as  low  as  200,000,000.  Several  recent 
writers,  however,  of  high  authority,  give  it  as  in  the 
preceding  table. 

It  may  be  remarked  in  general  that  the  manners 
and  customs  of  Asia  are  transmitted  from  one  age  to 
another  with  little  change.  All  over  Western  Asia 
the  beard  is  worn  long,  and  is  treated  with  a kind  of 
reverence.  The  dress  is  loose  and  flowing — turbans 
take  the  place  of  hats,  and  sandals  of  shoes.  They 
are  fond  of  external  pomp,  which  is  displayed  in  their 
dress  and  military  costumes.  In  writing  they  are 
addicted  to  a figurative  style  and  extravagant  hyper- 
bole. Polygamy  is  general,  and  the  female  sex  are  in 
a degraded  state. 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


Circassians. 


This  immense  region,  stretching  from  the  Ural 
mountains  on  the  west,  to  Behring’s  Straits  on  the 
east,  and  embracing  about  one  third  part  of  this  quar- 
ter of  the  globe,  though  generally  cold  and  barren, 
presents  at  least  one  spot  of  great  fertility.  To  the 
east  of,  and  bordering  on,  European  Russia  are  the  Cau- 
casian mountains,  whose  bosoms  enclose  territories 
peculiarly  gifted  with  richness  and  beauty.  The 
highest  peaks  are  clad  in  perpetual  snow ; beneath  is 
XIX. — 27 


314 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


the  black  region  of  rocks  and  precipices ; while  the 
lower  declivities  contain  a number  of  well- watered 
valleys,  forming  fine  pastoral  districts;  and,  though 
not  capable  of  high  culture,  yielding  plentifully  the 
inferior  products,  maize  and  millet.  In  these  moun- 
tain valleys  dwell  the  Circassians.  This  race  have 
been  long  celebrated  for  their  physical  qualities.  The 
men,  though  spare,  are  tall,  handsome,  and  athletic. 
But  it  is  the  fine  form  and  delicate  complexion  of  the 
female  Circassians,  which  constitute  so  wide  a theme 
of  Eastern  panegyric.  In  these  high  valleys,  with  a 
northern  exposure,  they  do  not  suffer  that  intense  heat 
of  the  sun,  which  produces,  generally,  the  dark  tints 
of  Asia.  The  daughters  of  all  above  the  rank  of 
slaves  are  exempted  from  oppressive  or  degrading 
labor,  and  merely  occupy  themselves  in  sewing,  em- 
broidery, and  the  plaiting  of  straw.  Their  beauty 
seems  to  be  in  part  the  result  of  a careful  study  of  all 
the  circumstances  which  tend  to  produce  or  preserve 
female  charms.  The  face  is  carefully  shaded  from  the 
sun ; they  are  fed  moderately  on  milk  and  pastry ; 
their  feet  are  protected  from  injury  by  a species  of 
wooden  shoe ; and  their  hands  by  the  use  of  gloves. 
Some  even  make  use  of  paint,  but  this  is  considered 
discreditable. 

The  distinctions  of  rank  and  birth  are  observed  in 
Circassia  with  all  the  strictness  of  highland  pride. 
Under  the  prince,  or  sovereign,  are  the  uzdens^  or 
nobles,  who  attend  him  in  war  or  foray,  but  exercise  a 
sway  almost  absolute  over  their  own  immediate  vas- 
sals. They  are  of  two  kinds, — bondsmen,  who  culti- 
vate the  glebe,  and  armed  retainers,  who  attend  him 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


315 


to  the  field  ; which  last  have  often  been  raised,  on  this 
condition,  from  the  inferior  ranks.  The  arrangements 
for  marriage  and  education  are  of  a most  peculiar 
character,  founded  on  a sort  of  Spartan  apathy,  which 
tramples  upon  every  tender  and  domestic  tie.  Until 
after  the  birth  of  the  first  child,  the  husband  and  wife 
live  ostensibly  separate,  and  never  see  each  other,  unless 
by  stealth ; the  husband  considers  it  an  insult  if  the 
wife  be  even  named  in  his  presence.  The  child, 
v/hen  born,  is  never  reared  in  the  house,  or  under  the 
eye  of  its  parents.  At  the  age  of  three  or  four,  some 
friendly  nobleman  receives  it,  and  undertakes  the 
sole  task  of  educating  and  rearing  it.  Under  him 
the  sons  are  trained  in  all  manly  exercises,  and  the 
females  in  those  which  belong  to  their  sex,  until  the 
former  is  ready  to  take  the  field,  and  the  latter  to 
receive  a husband,  which  this  foster  father  is  bound  to 
provide. 

On  the  southern  declivity  of  the  Caucasus  extends 
the  famous  and  once  powerful  kingdom  of  Georgia. 
The  world,  perhaps,  does  not  contain  a region  more 
profusely  gifted  both  with  richness  and  beauty.  Num- 
berless streams,  flowing  from  the  central  and  loftiest 
parts  of  the  chain,  irrigate  and  fertilize  all  its  borders. 
On  the  sides  of  the  mountains  hang  magnificent  forests 
of  beech,  ash,  chestnut,  oak,  and  pine  ; and  the  ground 
is  covered  with  vines  growing  wild  in  vast  profusion. 
On  its  successive  stages  are  raised  all  the  varieties  of 
fruit  and  grain,  both  of  the  temperate  and  tropical  cli- 
mates. The  woods  abound  with  game ; and  the 
mountains  contain  in  their  bosom  mines  of  considera- 
ble value. 


316 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


The  human  race  flourishes  in  an  equal  degree ; the 
men  are  distinguished  for  vigor;  and  the  females, 
with  the  single  exception  of  a darker  complexion,  are 
as  famed  for  beauty  as  those  of  Circassia.  All  these 
bounties  of  nature,  however,  have  been  rendered  un- 
availing by  the  oppressions  of  a feudal  government, 
and  by  the  continual  wars  which  have  desolated  Geor- 
gia for  more  than  a century.  The  nobles,  who  have 
reduced  the  prerogative  of  the  king  within  very  narrow 
limits,  possess  over  their  vassals  the  power  of  life  and 
death,  and  extract  from  them  the  whole  produce  of 
their  lands  beyond  what  may  afford  the  most  scanty 
subsistence.  The  unfortunate  husbandman  is  more- 
over exposed  to  the  continual  inroad  of  the  Losghians 
and  other  tribes  from  the  upper  heights  of  Caucasus, 
and  is  often  obliged  to  plough  with  arms  in  his  hands. 

Siberia  is  thinly  peopled,  yet  it  possesses  a great 
diversity  of  inhabitants.  The  Kussian  inhabitants 
consist,  for  the  most  part,  of  exiles  who  have  fallen 
under  the  displeasure  of  the  Czar.  The  two  great  capi- 
tals, Tobolsk  and  Irkoutsk,  have  somewhat  the  aspects 
of  European  cities.  Hospitality,  the  virtue  of  recluse 
regions,  is  said  to  prevail  among  the  Russians  of 
Siberia,  and  their  love  of  liquor  has  also  followed  them 
to  this  region  of  penance.  The  accompanying  vices 
of  indolence  and  improvidence,  are  said  to  pfevail  to  a 
lamentable  extent. 

Of  the  native  tribes  of  Siberia  we  may  notice  the 
Tartars,  who  live  a wandering  life,  being  almost  en- 
tirely occupied  in  rearing  horses.  Their  great  luxuries 
are  horse’s  flesh  and  fermented  mare’s  milk.  In  reli- 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


317 


gion  they  are  divided  between  Mahomedanism  and 
the  worship  of  the  Grand  Lama. 


Tartars 


The  Tunguses  are  found  in  the  extensive  region 
watered  by  the  Yenisei  and  its  tributary  the  Toun- 
gouska.  Unlike  the  Tartars,  they  possess  no  herds, 
except  those  of  rein-deer  ; and  their  sole  employments 
are  hunting  and  fishing  along  the  frozen  plains  and 
the  bleak  shores  of  the  great  Siberian  rivers.  They 
use  no  arms  in  the  chase  except  the  bow  and  arrow, 
in  which  they  are  so  skilful,  that  they  fear  not  to  at- 
tack the  strongest  and  fiercest  animals.  As  it  is  very 
desirable,  however,  not  to  injure  the  precious  skins  of 
the  fur-bearing  species,  they  are  rather  desirous  to 
■SI* 


318 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


take  them  by  art  or  stratagem,  and  show  wonderful 
ingenuity  in  the  contrivances  which  they  employ  for 
that  purpose.  They  are  not  less  skilful  in  tracing 
out  by  scent,  or  by  the  faintest  track,  the  animals 
which  they  pursue.  In  fishing,  they  use  little  boats 
composed  of  the  rind  of  the  birch  or  of  the  larch  tree. 
They  have  no  settled  abodes,  but  wander  from  place 
to  place,  guided  by  the  abundance  of  fish  and  game, 
or  by  the  mere  love  of  change. 

It  costs  them  very  little  trouble  to  construct  tem- 
porary abodes.  The  yourt^  or  summer  hut,  is  formed 
merely  by  arranging  in  a circular  shape  a number  of 
wooden  poles,  and  giving  them  a conical  roof  of  the 
bark  of  the  birch  tree.  Their  winter  abodes  also 
consist  of  a single  apartment,  the  wooden  walls  of 
which  are  more  strongly  put  together,  and  the  win- 
dows are  formed  of  expanded  bladder.  The  oven 
which  heats  the  apartment  and  cooks  the  victuals  is 
placed  in  a corner ; and  round  the  room  are  benches, 
on  which  the  family  sit,  eat,  and  sleep ; and  which, 
being  hollow,  contain  their  stores  and  provisions. 
The  smoke  makes  its  way  through  an  aperture  in  the 
roof  stuffed  with  dry  grass  to  exclude  the  cold ; in  its 
way  thither  it  fills  the  entire  hut,  but,  its  own  light- 
ness causing  it  to  ascend,  there  is  left  a space  near  the 
floor  not  absolutely  enveloped.  The  Tunguses  are  of 
a brownish  tint,  derived,  perhaps,  from  the  atmosphere 
of  smoky  huts ; their  features  are  flat,  and  their  eyes 
small ; though  neither  of  these  characters  occurs  to 
nearly  the  same  extent  as  in  the  Mongol  race,  nor 
have  they  its  peculiar  physiognomy.  They  are  de- 
scribed, by  those  who  have  held  intercourse  with  them, 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


319 


in  terms  of  praise,  as  frank,  stout,  honest,  and  brave. 
Though  professed  votaries  of  the  Shaman  creed,  they 
combine  it  with  magical  observances  and  other  native 
superstitions. 

The  Ostiaks  are  a numerous  Siberian  tribe,  occupy- 
ing the  banks  of  the  Lower  Obi  with  its  tributaries, 
and  the  plains  which  extend  far  on  each  side  of  it. 
Their  size  is  somewhat  diminutive  ; their  hair,  of  a 
yellow  or  reddish  tint,  floats  on  their  shoulders  ; and 
their  features  are  destitute  of  all  beauty.  Their  habi- 
tations, both  of  summer  and  winter,  are  nearly  similar 
to  those  of  the  Tunguses,  except  that  the  latter  fre- 
quently contain  two  or  three  families,  divided  by 
slight  partitions,  and  having  one  common  fireplace. 
They  depend  for  subsistence  chiefly  on  Ashing,  though 
they  give  chase  to  the  bear  and  various  fur-bearing 
animals ; the  finest  of  which,  however,  are  now  found 
only  in  the  eastern  regions.  In  these  pursuits  they 
display  indefatigable  activity.  They  are  said  to  be 
distinguished  by  great  simplicity  ‘of  manners,  good- 
ness of  heart,  and  open  hospitality.  Their  supersti- 
tion is  entirely  that  of  the  old  rude  paganism,  without 
any  Hindoo  or  Mahometan  admixture.  In  their  tents 
they  have  many  little  images,  before  which  they  place 
a table,  and  lay  upon  it  snuff,  willow  bark,  fish  oil, 
and  whatever  commodities  they  themselves  consider 
most  valuable.  In  return  for  these  gifts,  they  consid- 
er as  due  a prosperous  fishing  and  hunting ; and 
when,  in  spite  of  lavish  donation,  these  fail,  their 
wrath  is  sometimes  kindled  against  their  divinities, 
whom  they  even  dash  on  the  floor,  and  break  in 
pieces.  The  bear  is  the  object  of  a sort  of  fearful 


320 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


worship ; and,  in  their  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  Eus- 
sian  government,  they  wish  that,  if  it  be  not  fulfilled, 
they  may  be  devoured  by  that  formidable  animal. 
Their  favorite  amusement  consists  in  a species  of 
dance,  in  which  they  imitate  to  the  life  the  motions 
and  cries  of  the  beasts,  birds,  and  fishes  with  which 
they  are^ daily  conversant. 

To  the  north,  on  the  extreme  shores  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  wander  the  Samoides,  whom  the  poet  deno- 
minates “ the  last  of  men.”  They  present  nearly  the 
same  original  form  as  the  Tunguses,  but  want  and 
hardship  have  sunk  them  into  a meagre  and  stunted 
race.  They  have  a flat,  round,  and  broad  face,  large, 
thick  lips,  a wide  and  open  nose,  little  beard,  black 
and  rough  hair  in  small  quantity.  Their  territory, 
along  these  dreary  shores,  extends  for  nearly  2000 
miles,  from  the  European  frontier  to  the  Olensk,  and 
almost  to  the  Lena.  Placed  in  the  same  situation 
with  the  Laplanders,  their  habits  and  modes  of  life 
are  almost  entirely  the  same.  All  their  wants  are 
similarly  supplied  by  the  rein-deer;  but  the  herds 
which  they  have  tamed  are  employed  solely  for  the 
purpose  of  conveyance ; those  only  which  are  caught 
in  the  chase  are  used  as  food,  and  their  skins  convert- 
ed into  clothing.  On  the  sea-coast  they  attack  the 
bear,  and  feed  on  his  flesh,  as  well  as  on  that  af 
the  whales  which  are  cast  ashore.  Fishing  on  the 
rivers  is  considered  by  them  an  easy  and  Juxurious 
occupation.  In  autumn  they  are  chiefly  employed  in 
hunting  the  white  fox,  the  fur  of  which  affbrds  the 
only  medium  by  which  they  can  obtain  foreign  lux- 
uries. 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


321 


There  are  still  other  tribes  in  Siberia,  but  we  can- 
not notice  them  in  detail;  yet  we  must  say  a few 
words  of  Kamtchatka,  which  forms  the  eastern  limit 
of  Asia.  Though  a cold  and  tempestuous  region,  it 
seems  to  abound  in  animal  life.  A sportsman  who 
should  be  willing  to  sacrifice  to  his  favorite  amuse- 
ment the  pleasures  of  civilized  life  would  find  Kamt- 
chatka a paradise.  The  land  animals  afford  a val- 
uable prize,  being  all  covered  with  rich  furs,  and 
very  abundant.  Though  not  quite  so  fine  as  those 
of  Siberia,  they  form  the  basis  of  a considerable 
trade.  The  coasts  swarm  with  seals  and  other  ma- 
rine animals  ; the  rocks  are  coated  with  shellfish ; 
the  bays  are  almost  choked  with  herrings,  and  the 
rivers  with  salmon.  Flocks  of  grouse,  wood-cocks, 
wild  geese,  and  ducks  darken  the  air.  Thus  the 
inhabitants  obtain  in  abundance  not  only  food,  but  full 
materials  for  that  gluttonous  indulgence  to  which 
they  are  addicted.  They  form  a peculiar  race,  with 
flat  features,  small  eyes,  thin  lips,  and  scarcely  any 
beard.  Their  stature  is  diminutive,  with  large  head 
and  short  legs.  Since  the  Russian  sway  put  an  end 
to  the  wars  which  they  were  wont  to  wage  with  con- 
siderable fury,  they  have  passed  into  a peaceable, 
honest,  lazy,  drunken,  servile  race,  careless  of  the 
future,  and  addicted  to  coarse  sensuality. 

They  have  houses  both  for  winter  and  summer. 
The  former,  composed  of  branches  of  trees,  plastered 
with  clay,  or  half  sunk  in  the  ground ; and  in  the  in- 
terior one  lamp,  fed  with  train  oil,  lights,  warms,  and 
cooks  the  victuals  of  two  families.  The  summer- 
house has  a peculiar  structure,  its  floor  being  raised 


322 


RUSSIA  IN  ASIA. 


by  posts,  twelve  or  thirteen  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
leaving  beneath  an  empty  space,  in  which  the  fish  is 
hung  up  to  dry.  In  their  domestic  habits,  the  most 
remarkable  peculiarity  is  the  use  of  dogs  harnessed  to 
the  sledges  and  employed  to  draw  them.  These  dogs 
are  of  no  peculiar  size  or  strength,  but  resemble 
mountain  or  shepherd  dogs.  They  are  fed  on  the 
offal  of  fish,  and  in  summ^er  are  turned  out  to  find 
their  own  food ; their  return  being  certain  at  the  ap- 
proach of  the  inclement  season.  In  travelling,  the 
driver  yokes  them  two  and  two  abreast,  and  from  four 
to  ten  in  one  vehicle,  according  to  the  weight  to  be 
drawn.  He  then  places  himself  in  the  sledge,  which 
is  in  the  form  of  a basket,  with  two  ends  turned  up  ; 
but  no  ordinary  skill  is  required  to  prevent  both  rider 
and  carriage  from  being  overturned  on  the  rugged 
ground  over  which  it  is  frequently  dragged. 

At  their  high  festivals,  the  Kamtchadales  give  them- 
selves up  to  an  almost  frantic  mirth,  which  astonishes 
those  who  have  viewed  the  sluggishness  of  their  ordi- 
nary deportment.  Their  favorite  dance  is  one  in 
which  all  the  actions  and  motions  of  the  bear  are  re- 
presented to  the  life  ; and  the  violent  and  uncouth  at- 
titudes assumed  for  this  purpose  excite  in  the  specta- 
tors rapturous  admiration. 

In  closing  our  view  of  the  Polar  regions,  it  may  be 
remarked  that  a short  and  feeble  race,  bearing  through- 
out a strong  resemblance,  seems  to  occupy  this  frigid 
portion  of  both  continents.  The  sterile  soil  and  the 
repulsive  climate,  allow  but  a stinted  vegetation,  and 
deny  to  man,  both  the  means  of  improvement  and  the 
inducements  to  exertion,  which  operate  with  such  force 
to  civilize  society  in  the  temperate  zones. 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC 


This  region  contains  several  remarkable  tribes,  such 
as  the  Druses,  a warlike  people,  who  occupy  the 
northern  slopes  of  Mount  Lebanon ; the  Marionites, 
a sect  of  Christians  who  dwell  upon  the  southern  sides 
of  Mount  Lebanon ; the  Armenians,  who  profess 
Cliristianity,  and  are  the  chief  merchants  in  many  of 
the  large  towns ; the  Koords,  inhabiting  the  moun- 


324 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC, 


tainous  districts  of  Koordistan,  and  often  descending 
from  their  strongholds  to  make  incursions  upon  the 
fertile  plains  below ; and  the  Turcomans,  who  are  a 
pastoral  tribe  of  nomades,  in  the  interior  of  Asia  Minor. 

It  is  impossible,  in  the  brief  compass  of  this  volume, 
to  enter  into  detailed  descriptions  of  the  customs  of 
these  various  nations.  It  may  be  remarked,  generally, 
that  the  Turkish  manners  prevail,  though  each  country 
has  its  peculiarities. 

The  Turks  of  Asia  Minor  and  Syria  are  scarcely 
to  be  distinguished  from  those  of  Europe,  whom  we 
have  already  described.  In  dress,  religion,  and  modes 
of  life  they  are  everywhere  the  same. 


Within  the  territory  which  we  are  now  considering 
is  the  most  celebrated  spot  on  the  face  of  the  globe — 
the  Holy  Land — whose  capital  is  Jerusalem.  If  we 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC.  325 

were  now  to  visit  that  city  we  should  find  it  inhabited 
chiefly  by  Turks,  among  whom  there  are  numerous 
monks,  Greeks,  Abyssinians,  Copts,  Armenians,  Ma- 
rionites,  &c.  It  has  been  said  that  in  the  churcli  of 
the  holy  sepulchre,  “ from  the  arches  above,  where 
they  nestle  like  pigeons,  from  the  chapel  below,  and 
subterranean  vaults,  their  songs  are  heard  at  all  hours, 
both  of  day  and  night.  The  organ  of  the  Latin  monks, 
the  cymbals  of  the  Abyssinian,  the  voice  of  the  Greek 
caloyer,  the  prayer  of  the  solitary  Armenian,  the  plain- 
tive accents  of  the  Coptic  priest,  alternately,  or  all  at 
once,  assail  your  ears ; you  know  not  whence  these  . 
concerts  proceed ; you  inhale  the  perfume  of  incense 
without  perceiving  the  hand  that  burns  it ; you  merely 
perceive  the  pontiff  who  is  going  to  celebrate  the  most 
awful  of  mysteries  on  the  very  spot  where  they  were 
accomplished.” 

The  general  aspect  and  leading  traits  of  the  Arabs 
have  been  described  under  the  head  of  Africa.  They 
have  black  eyes  and  hair,  a sallow  complexion,  straight 
limbs,  and  great  activity.  The  Bedoweens  are  pas- 
toral, and  wander  from  place  to  place  in  search  of  pas- 
turage for  their  flocks.  The  great  deserts  of  Arabia 
are  peopled  by  these  wandering  tribes,  who  are  gene- 
rally robbers,  and  often  capture  such  travellers  as  fall 
in  their  way.  ^ 

The  Arabs  who  live  in  cities  adopt  the  manners  of 
the  Turks.  Little  animal  food  is  eaten ; dates,  milk, 
butter,  oil  and  coffee  are  the  common  articles  of  con- 
sumption. Lizards  and  locusts  are  sometimes  eaten. 
Education  seldom  goes  beyond  the  reading  of  the 
Koran.  In  religion  these  people  are  bigoted  Mahome- 
u XIX. — ^28 


326  TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC. 

dans.  The  sheiks  are  the  chiefs,  but  their  authority 
is  limited.  The  only  safe  way  of  travelling  is  in  large 


Caravan  in  the  Desert. 


companies  called  caravans.  The  general  character  of 
the  Arabs  is  founded  upon  that  of  Ishmael;  it  is  said 
that  ‘‘  in  the  desert  they  are  robbers,  and  in  cities 
cheating  is  a substitute  for  robbery.”  They  are,  how- 
ever, courteous,  polite  and  hospitable  to  a proverb. 

The  Persian  nation  is  a mingled  population  ; the 
Parsees,  or  original  inhabitants,  being  a small  part  of 
the  people.  The  Turkish  is  the  spoken  language,  the 
Persian  being  used  in  books.  The  dress  has  been 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC.  327 

considered  effeminate.  The  men  wear  a long  robe 
reaching  nearly  to  the  feet,  and  under  this  a vest  tight 
to  the  hips,  and  then  flowing  like  a petticoat.  They 
wear  wide  trowsers  and  silk  or  calico  shirts.  Eobes 
of  various  kinds  are  common,  and  a long  muslin  sash 
is  worn  over  the  whole  dress.  In  this  is  stuck  a dag- 
gier,  and  no  Persian  considers  himself  fully  dressed 
without  his  sword.  All  classes  wear  a black  lambskin 
cap,  about  a foot  in  height.  The  head  is  shaved 
except  a tuft  on  the  head  and  behind  the  ears.  The 
beard  is  dyed  black.  The  dress  of  the  females  is 
simple.  In  winter  a close-bodied  robe,  reaching  to 
the  knees  and  buttoned  in  front,  is  worn  over  the  rest. 
In  summer,  a silk  or  muslin  shift  is  worn,  loose  velvet 
trowsers,  and  a vest.  The  head  is  covered  with  a 
black  turban,  over  which  a cashmere  shawl  is  thrown 
as  a veil. 

The  general  food  of  the  Persians  is  simple.  Coffee 
is  general,  and  tobacco  is  smoked  by  all  classes.  The 
delicious  wines  of  Persia  are  much  used  in  spite  of 
the  prohibition  of  the  Koran.  The  Persians  have  been 
called,  probably  by  a Frenchman,  the  Parisians  of  the 
East,  but  they  have  more  resemblance  to  the  Greeks. 
They  are  volatile,  cheerful,  cunning,  lying  and  dis- 
honest, but  eminently  social.  They  show  great  re- 
spect for  age.  They  abound  in  complimentary  phrases, 
and  their  politeness,  like  that  of  the  other  Asiatics,  is 
formal,  though  less  grave  than  that  of  the  Turks. 
They  are  affable  and  fond  of  conversation,  in  which 
fables  and  apologues  abound.  Their  manner  of  salu- 
tation is  to  touch  the  hands  and  then  ra’se  them  to  the 
forehead.  The  king,  however,  and  great  officers  are 


328 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC. 


saluted  by  thrice  bowing  to  the  ground.  There  is 
much  difference  between  the  manner  of  life  and  cha- 
racter of  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  and  the  country. 
The  latter  are  brave  and  hardy,  while  the  former  are 
timid  and  effeminate.  The  females  are  generally 
instructed  in  reading,  embroidery,  and  household  af 
fairs,  of  which  they  have  the  sole  management. 

The  Persian  amusements  are  hunting,  which  they 
follow  with  great  zeal,  and  various  exhibitions  of 
dancing,  juggling,  and  story  telling,  &c.  Antelopes 
are  hunted  with  hawks  and  gTeyhounds.  The  hawk 
alights  upon  the  head,  disordering  the  motions  of  the 
antelope,  which  the  hound  is  therefore  able  to  overtake. 
Education  is  generally  diffused,  and  most  children  are 
taught  to  read  and  write,  but  there  is  little  instruction 
in  the  higher  branches.  The  arts  and  sciences  have 
hardly  an  existence.  The  most  general  and  popular 
literature  is  comprised  in  poems,,  and  rom.antic  tales. 
Firdusi,  Hafiz,  and  Saadi,  are  poets  admired  in  Euro- 
pean translations,  and  the  two  former  are  as  well 
known  to  the  common  people,  as  Burns  to  the  same 
class  in  Scotland.  The  religion  is  Mahometan  of  the 
sect  of  Ali. 

The  inhabitants  of  Afghanistan  are  made  up  of 
PersiansL,  Indians,  and  descendants  of  the  native  races. 
The  latter  are  addicted  to  war,  the  chase,  and  rearing 
cattle.  They  are  rude,  rapacious  and  vindictive,  but 
brave,  open  and  faithful.  Their  religion  is  Mahome 
danism,  but  they  are  not  bigoted.  Education  is  care 
fully  provided  for,  there  being  a school  in  every  village 

Beloochistan  is  occupied  by  several  confederated 
tribes,  who  chiefly  lead  a wandering  and  feudatory 


TURKEY,  ARABIA,  PERSIA,  ETC. 


329 


life.  In  the  chase,  or  in  their  plundering  expeditions, 
they  are  active  and  energetic,  but  at  other  times,  they 
are  indolent  and  dissipated. 

Independent  Tartary  is  an  extensive  region,  west  of 
Chinese  Tartary.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  a pas- 
toral people,  living  in  tents,  and  wandering  from  place 
to  place  with  their  flocks  and  herds.  The  common 
dress  is  a cotton  robe,  and  drawers ; red  is  the  favorite 
color.  Garments  of  skins  are  often  worn.  Horse 
flesh,  and  kourrms^  a liquor  made  from  mare’s  milk,  are 
favorites.  The  people  have,  generally,  neither  regu- 
lar government,  nor  settled  habitations.  Many  of  the 
tribes  live  by  robbery  and  plunder,  and  others  delight 
in  the  chase.  The  religion  is  Mahometan,  and  the 
laws  are  chiefly  drawn  from  the  Koran.  The  chiefs 
are  called  Khans^  and  these  acknowledge  a great 
Khan,  who  styles  himself  king  of  kings. 


HINDOSTAN * 


Hindoo  pagoda. 


This  extensive  and  populous  country,  though  chiefly 
under  British  sway,  retains  its  peculiar  manners, 

*For  more  ample  notices  of  the  Hindoos,  see  Lights  and 
Shadows  of  Asiatic  History.’^ 


HINDOSTAN. 


331 


which  have  stamped  the  people  as  a peouliar  race, 
from  the  earliest  periods  of  history.  In  person  they 
are  dark,  slender  and  graceful,  and  their  expression 
is  soft  and  retiring.  The  common  dress  consists  of 
a turban,  drawers,  and  a long  robe  tied  with  a scarf. 
The  poorer  classes  have  often  but  a piece  of  cotton 
tied  around  the  loins.  The  head  is  usually  shaved, 
leaving  a lock  behind.  The  dress  of  the  females  is  a 
light  jacket  with  half  sleeves,  and  a piece  of  silk 
or  cotton  wrapped  gracefully  around  the  middle,  and 
falling  so  as  to  display  a part  of  one  of  the  ankles. 

The  common  dwellings  consist  of  slight  fabrics 
of  split  bamboo,  covered  with  mats.  The  walls  of 
some  are  of  mud,  hardened  like  bricks.  In  towns  the 
architecture  is  Moorish,  and  some  of  the  nobles  have 
magnificent  palaces.  The  English  residents  adopt  a 
mixed  style,  partaking  of  the  Asiatic  and  European 
architecture.  In  the  cities  of  Calcutta,  Madras,  and 
Delhi,  there  is  much  splendor  in  the  edifices. 

The  food  is  simple,  rice  and  other  vegetables  con- 
stituting the  chief  articles  of  consumption.  The  infe- 
rior castes  only,  eat  all  kinds  of  animal  food,  and  use 
intoxicating  drinks.  Travelling  is  generally  by  palan- 
quins, though  the  rich  sometimes  perform  journeys  on 
elephants.  The  religion  is  Bramanism,  the  chief  doc- 
trine of  which  is  that  of  the  metempsychosis,  or  trans- 
migration of  souls.  It  is  a part  of  their  ecclesiastical 
as  well  as  civil  system,  to  divide  the  people  into  castes, 
which  are  hereditary.  These  are  the  Bramins,  or 
priests  ; the  Rajah-pootras^  or  soldiers  ; Vaisyas,  or 
merchants  and  farmers,  and  the  Sudras,  or  laborers. 
These  do  not  eat  or  drink  together  or  intermarry 


332 


HINDOSTAN. 


Though  many  of  the  doctrines  of  the  Hindoo  faith  are 
pure,  yet  their  system  practically  runs  into  the  most  de- 
grading superstition,  and  the  priests  take  advantage  of 
their  superior  dignity,  to  practise  every  species  of  impo- 
sition upon  the  people.  Some  of  the  diabolical  practices 
inculcated  by  the  priests,  such  as  drowning  children 
in  the  Ganges,  burning  the  widow  upon  the  funeral 
pile  of  the  husband,  &c.,  are  universally  known. 

The  amusements  of  the  Hindoos  are  found,  to  a 
large  extent,  in  the  multitudinous  ceremonies  imposed 
by  religion  ; in  the  dancing  of  girls  trained  to  the  art ; 
in  jugglery,  which  their  adepts  have  carried  to  a 
wonderful  degree  of  perfection ; in  wrestling,  and  in 
the  performances  of  the  cockpit,  where  they  exhibit 
spiders,  bugs  and  quails,  trained  to  fighting.  Not- 
withstanding their  oppressed  condition,  and  the  gloomy 
traits  which  belong  to  their  religion,  the  Hindoos  ap- 
pear to  be  a happy,  or  at  least  a cheerful  and  contented 
people. 

The  general  manners  and  customs  of  the  Hindoos 
have  been  rendered  familiar  to  most  readers,  but  the 
Thugs  are  less  known,  and  from  their  extraordinary 
character,  deserve  a more  particular  description. 
These  consist  of  an  extensive  and  organized  fraternity 
of  murderers,  which  has  spread  itself  over  the  whole 
country  from  Cape  Comorin  to  the  Himmaleh  moun- 
tains, and  has  subsisted  for  ages,  defying  the  muta- 
tions which  swept  away  thrones  and  dynasties. 

This  extraordinary  people  are  divided  into  Buricas, 
or  persons  fully  instructed  in  the  art,  and  Kuboolas,  or 
novices.  These  are  by  no  means  nominal  distinc- 
tions. No  Thug  is  allowed  to  take  his  degree  as  a 


HINDOSTAN. 


333 


Burka,  or  to  assume  the  office  of  a strangler,  until  ke 
has  been  on  many  expeditions,  and  acquired  the  re- 
quisite courage  and  insensibility,  by  slow  degrees. 
They  are  first  employed  as  scouts,  then  as  sextons, 
then  as  shumseeas  or  holders  of  hands,  and  lastly  as 
Bhurtotes  or  stranglers.  When  a man  feels  that  he 
has  sufficient  courage  and  insensibility  for  the  purpose, 
he  solicits  the  oldest  and  most  renowned  Thug  to 
make  him  his  disciple.  The  Thug  agrees  to  become 
his  gooroo  or  spiritual  interpreter ; and  when  the  gang 
falls  in  with  a man  of  respectability  and  moderate 
strength,  fitted  for  the  purpose,  he  tells  the  gooroo  that 
he  is  prepared,  with  his  permission,  to  try  his  hands 
upon  him.  While  the  traveller  is  asleep,  with  the  gang, 
at  their  quarters,  the  gooroo  takes  his  disciple  into  a 
neighboring  field,  followed  by  three  or  four  old  mem- 
bers of  the  society.  On  reaching  the  spot  chosen,  they 
all  face  to  the  direction  in  which  the  gang  intend  to 
move,  and  the  gooroo  says,  “ OA,  khalee,  kunkalee^^^  &c. 
&:c.,  if  it  seemeth  to  thee  fit  that  the  traveller  now 
at  our  lodging,  should  die  by  the  hands  of  this  thy  slave, 
vouchsafe  us  the  Thibaoo.”  If  they  get  the  auspices 
on  the  right  side  within  half  an  hour,  it  signifies  the 
sanction  of  the  deity ; but  if  they  have  no  sign,  or 
it  comes  on  the  left,  some  other  Thug  must  put  the 
traveller  to  death,  and.  the  candidate  for  honor  must 
wait  for  another  time. 

If  the  sign  is  auspicious  they  return  to  their  quar- 
ters ; the  gooroo  takes  a handkerchief,  and  facing  to 
the  west,  ties  a knot  at  one  end,  with  a rupee  or  other 
piece  of  silver  inserted.  This  knot  they  call  the  goor- 
knat,  or  classic  knot ; and  no  man  who  has  not  been 


334 


HINDOSTAN. 


thus  ordained  by  the  high  priest,  is  permitted  to  tie 
it.  The  disciple  receives  it  respectfully  from  the  sacred 
officer,  in  his  right  hand,  and  stands  over  the  victim 
with  a shumseea,  or  holder  of  hands,  by  his  side. 
The  traveller  is  roused  on  some  pretence  or  other,  and 
the  disciple  passes  the  handkerchief  over  his  neck  at 
the  signal  given  by  the  leader  of  the  gang,  and 
strangles  him  with  the  aid  of  the  shumseea.  Having 
finished  his  work,  he  bows  down  before  his  gooroo 
and  touches  his  feet  with  both  hands,  and  does  the 
same  to  all  his  relatives  and  friends  present,  in  grati- 
tude for  the  honor  he  has  attained.  He  opens  the 
knot,  takes  out  the  rupee  and  gives  it  with  all  the 
other  silver  he  has,  to  his  gooroo,  who  lays  it  out  in 
materials  for  a sacrifice.  On  the  return  of  the  novice 
after  his  expedition,  he  gives  a feast  to  his  gooroo  and 
his  family,  and  if  he  has  the  means,  to  all  his  rela- 
tions ; and  he  presents  to  the  gooroo  a new  suit  of 
clothes,  another  to  his  wife,  and  if  he  can  afford  it,  to 
his  other  relations.  The  gooroo,  after  a certain  inter- 
val, returns  the  compliment  to  him  and  his  family; 
and  the  relation  between  them  is  ever  after  respected 
as  the  most  sacred  that  can  subsist.  A Thug  will 
often  rather  betray  his  father  than  the  gooroo.  by  whom 
he  has  been  thus  knighted. 

The  Thugs  travel  along  the  roads  under  various 
assumed  characters,  in  parties  varying  from  ten  or 
twelve  to  several  hundreds.  They  appear  as  traders, 
pilgrims,  as  sepoys  seeking  or  returning  from  ser- 
vice ; and  sometimes  one  of  their  number  figures  as  a 
Rajah  or  prince,  with  all  the  appropriate  equipments  of 
tents,  carriage,  &.c. ; and  the  rest  act  the  part  of  his 


niNDOSTAN. 


335 


obsequious  followers.  If  the  gang  is  numerous  they 
are  divided  into  separate  parties,  who  follow  each  other 
at  some  distance,  or,  taking  different  routes,  rendez- 
vous at  some  appointed  place  in  advance.  Their  vic- 
tims are  almost  always  travellers.  The  most  expert 
members  of  the  gang  are  employed  to  collect  informa- 
tion, and  insinuate  themselves  into  the  confidence  of 
strangers  whom  they  find  at  the  resting-places,  or 
overtake  on  the  road.  They  usually  propose  to  them 
to  join  company  for  mutual  safety  ; and  if  the  travel- 
ler suspects  one  party,  he  soon  falls  in  with  another, 
who  pretend  to  enter  into  his  feelings  of  distrust.  A 
person  is  sent  before  to  select  a proper  place  for  the  mur- 
der, and  scouts  are  employed  to  prevent  interruption. 
The  travellers  are  generally  induced  to  sit  down  under 
pretence  of  resting  themselves,  and  they  are  strangled 
at  once  on  a given  signal.  The  bodies  are  then 
buried,  after  having  been  mangled  to  expedite  dissolu- 
tion, and  to  prevent  their  swelling  and  causing  cracks 
in  the  ground.  Two  Thugs  are  employed  in  the 
murder  of  each  individual,  one  of  whom  holds  his 
legs  or  hands  while  the  other  applies  the  noose.  If 
the  traveller  have  a dog,  he  is  also  killed,  lest  he 
might  cause  the  discovery  of  the  murdered  body.  In 
Bengal,  which  is  much  intersected  by  rivers,  the  plan 
is  modified  to  suit  the  country.  The  practice  there  is 
to  inveigle  travellers  on  hoard  pretended  passage- 
boats,  which  are  manned  entirely  by  Thugs,  and  then 
to  strangle  them  and  throw  their  bodies  into  the  river. 
Several  of  these  boats  follow  each  other  at  short  inter- 
vals, so  that  if  the  traveller  escapes  one  snare  he  may 
fall  into  another. 


336 


HINDOSTAN. 


A pickaxe  is  consecrated  by  each  gang  before  set- 
ting out  on  an  expedition,  and  is  regarded  by  a Thug 
in  much  the  same  light  as  is  his  sword  by  a soldier. 
It  is  the  mark  of  his  profession;  he  swears  by  it,  under 
the  firm  belief  that  if  he  forswear  himself,  he  will,  with- 
in two  or  three  days,  die  a horrid  death ; that  his  head 
will  turn  round,  his  face  towards  his  back,  and  he  will 
writhe  in  tortures  till  he  expires.  The  sound  of  the  con- 
secrated pickaxe  is  never  heard  in  digging  a grave,  by 
any  one  except  a Thug.  It  is  carried  by  the  shrewd- 
est, cleverest,  and  most  sober  and  careful  man  of  the 
party,  in  his  waist-belt.  While  in  camp  he  buries  it 
in  a secure  place,  with  its  point  in  the  direction  they 
intend  to  march  ; and  if  another  direction  will  be 
better,  it  is  believed  that  its  point  will  be  found 
changed.  Formerly  it  used  to  be  thrown  into  a well, 
whence  it  was  said  to  come  up  of  itself  when  summoned 
with  the  appropriate  ceremonies  ; but  since  the  northern 
Thugs  have  begun  to  do  what  is  forbidden,  and  neglect 
what  is  enjoined,  it  has,  with  them,  lost  its  imputed 
virtue.  In  the  Deccan,  where  the  primitive  spirit 
of  Thuggee  has  not  been  departed  from,  this  is 
believed  to  be  still  the  case.  “ During  a whole  expedi- 
tion that  I made  with^  them,”  says  a northern  Thug, 
who  served  a campaign  with  the  people  of  his  own 
profession  in  the  south,  “ Imam  Khan  and  his  brother 
carried  the  pickaxes,  and  I heard  them  repeatedly  in 
the  morning  call  them  from  the  well  into  which  they 
had  thrown  them  overnight,  and  saw  the  pickaxes  come 
of  themselves  from  the  well  and  fall  into  their  aprons.” 

The  most  ordinary  and  effectual  mode  in  which  the 
tutelary  goddess  of  the  Thugs  interferes  in  behalf  of 


HINDOSTAN. 


337 


her  votaries,  is  by  omens.  These  are  considered  by 
them  as  signs  expressly  appointed  to  guide  them  to 
their  prey,  or  to  warn  them  of  approaching  danger ; 
and  no  member  of  the  fraternity  doubts,  that  if  these 
omens  had  been  attended  to,  and  the  other  prescribed 
rules  observed,  the  system  of  Thuggee  must  have 
flourished  under  the  auspices  of  its  divine  patroness  in 
spite  of  all  the  efforts  of  the  British  for  its  suppression. 
The  coincidence  between  the  rules  of  augury  ob- 
served by  the  Thugs  and  those  of  ancient  Greece 
and  Rome  must  strike  every  one.  These  omens  are 
the  sounds  or  the  voices  of  animals  on  the  right  or 
left ; wolves  crossing  the  road,  or  howling  at  .certain 
hours  of  the  day  or  night ; the  hooting  of  the  owl ; 
the  cry  of  the  hare  ; the  braying  of  the  ass,  &:c. 

The  Thugs  are  not  wanting  in  gratitude  to  the  divine 
patroness  for  her  favors.  A chosen  portion  of  each 
spoil  is  set  aside  for  her,  and  numerous  rites  are  ob- 
served in  her  honor.  To  the  Thugs,  murder  is  an  act 
of  religion,  just  as  much  as  the  practice  of  charity,  to 
a Christian.  When  by  favorable  omens,  their  patron- 
ess is  supposed  to  have  revealed  her  will  for  the  sacri- 
fice of  travellers,  those  of  the  stricter  sort  dare  not 
disobey.  As  the  Thugs  have  a religion  of  their  own, 
they  are  regarded  among  themselves  as  religious,  or 
otherwise,  according  to  the  degree  of  strictness  with 
which  they  observe  the  rules  of  their  peculiar  faith. 
In  our  eyes  all  killing  is  wrong  which  is  not  sanctioned 
by  the  laws  of  the  country;  in  theirs  it  is  wrong 
not  to  kill,  when  enjoined  by  the  divine  law  of  their 
patroness  Kalee. 

The  Thugs  are  forbidden  by  their  rules  to  slay 
women  of  any  description,  and  either  men  or  women 

3 IX. — ^29 


338 


HINDOSTAN. 


of  the  following  classes : — fakirs,  bards,  musicians, 
dancers,  washerwomen,  sweepers,  oil-venders,  black- 
smiths, and  carpenters,  maimed  or  leprous  persons, 
men  with  cows,  and  Ganges  water-carriers,  except 
when  their  pots  are  empty. 

The  whole  system  of  Thuggee  is  made  for  secrecy. 
Acting  upon  the  maxim  that  “ dead  men  tell  no  tales,” 
they  never  rob  without  first  murdering.  They  hardly 
ever  shed  blood.  The  bodies  of  their  victims  are 
buried  with  the  utmost  care,  and  fires  are  made  over 
the  graves  that  it  may  be  supposed  travellers  have 
been  cooking  victuals  there,  and  no  appearance  be  left 
to  excite  suspicion.  They  never  put  them  to  death 
till  they  have  a safe  opportunity,  even  if  it  should  be 
necessary  to  follow  them  hundreds  of  miles.  In 
speaking  of  matters  relating  to  their  profession,  they 
use  a slang,  understood  only  by  themselves.  There 
are  circumstances  peculiar  to  India  which  enable 
them  to  carry  on  the  practice  with  much  greater  facility 
than  would  be  the  case  in  most  other  places.  These 
are,  the  usage  all  over  the  country,  of  sending  remit- 
tances in  the  precious  metals  and  jewels,  by  men  on 
foot  without  any  guard  or  arms  to  defend  them ; the 
unreserved  manner  in  which  travellers  mix  and  com- 
municate ; the  long  tracts  of  grass  and  wood-jungle 
through  which  the  roads  pass,  &c.  Moreover,  the 
same  religious  feeling  which  leads  the  Thugs  to  be- 
lieve that  they  are  performing  a laudable  action  in 
murdering  travellers  who  are  thrown  in  their  way, 
while  the  auspices  are  favorable,  causes  them  to  be 
regarded  without  horror  by  the  other  Hindoos.  They 
are  supposed  to  be  only  doing  their  duty  in  that  state 
nf  life  to  which  God  has  called  them. 


FARTHER  INDIA. 


View  of  Rangoon 

To  the  south  of  China  and  Hindostan,  is  a reg’ion 
which  passes  under  the  titles  of  Farther  India,  India 
beyond  the  Ganges,  or  Chin  India.  This  region 
embraces  the  modem  empires  of  Birmah  and  Anam, 
the  kingdom  of  Siam,  and  the  States  of  Malacca. 
The  inhabitants  of  this  fertile  and  populous  region 
exhibit  all  the  degrees  of  barbarism  in  the  state  of 
society.  Their  religion  is  that  of  Buddha,  and  dis- 
plays itself  in  gilded  and  gorgeous  temples  or  pagodas. 


340 


FAR'/HER  INDIA. 


The  governments  are  stern  despotisms,  in  which  the 
lives  and  fortunes  of  the  people  are  subject  to  the 
caprices  of  their  rulers. 

The  Burmese  are,  divided  into  seven  castes,  and  the 
women  are  shut  up  as  in  Mahomedan  countries.  The 
houses  are  slight,  and  the  .dress  of  the  poorer  classes 
very  scanty.  The  wealthy  indulge  in  rich  and  splendid 
robes.  The  principal  food  is  rice,  roots,  leaves,  seeds 
and  blossoms,  though  entrails,  reptiles  and  fish,  are 
eaten.  The  nobles  are  fond  of  display,  and  the  em- 
peror, in  his  processions,  exhibits  a while  elephant, 
which  is  held  sacred. 

The  empire  of  Anam,  has  risen  within  the  present 
century,  and  comprises  Tonquin,  Cochin  China,  and 
Cambodia.  The  late  emperor,  Chang  Shung,  orga- 
nized a powerful  army  and  navy,  and  constructed 
strong  military  works  on  the  European  plan.  Hue, 
the  capital,  is  a place  of  great  strength.  The  people 
resemble  the  Chinese,  in  person,  and  many  of  their 
manners  and  customs.  Morals  are  at  a low  ebb,  and 
the  women  are  hardly  better  than  slaves,  being  obliged 
to  perform  nearly  all  the  common  drudgery  of  life. 

The  people  of  Siam  resemble  the  Burmese ; they 
are  described  as  sluggish,  boastful,  arrogant  and  false. 
The  most  abject  submission  is  required  by  the  supe- 
riors of  those  beneath  them.  We  are  told  that  Laku, 
one  of  the  former  sovereigns,  being  awakened  from 
sleep  and  saved  from  assassination  by  the  braying  of 
an  ass,  commanded,  in  the  ardor  of  his  gratitude,  that 
all  mankind  should  be  called  asses.  We  are  fur- 
ther informed  that  whenever  an  ambassador  from 
China  came  to  the  Siamese  court,  the  master  of  the 


FARTHER  INDIA. 


341 


ceremonies  proclaimed  the  fact  in  these  words,  “ Most 
potent  Laku,  absolute  Lord  of  the  Universe,  King  of 
the  White  Elephants,  and  Keeper  of  the  Sacred  Tooth! 
a great  jackass  from  China  has  come  to  speak  with 
your  majesty  ! ” 

The  peninsula  of  Malacca,  is  inhabited  by  several 
independent  tribes,  who  belong  to  the  race  of  Malays. 
They  are  a barbarous  people,  of  the  Mahomedan  faith, 
following  the  various  professions  of  robbers,  merchants 
and  pirates.  In  person  they  are  short,  squat  and  ro- 
bust. Their  legs  and  arms  are  stout ; the  face  round, 
the  mouth  wide,  the  teeth  remarkably  white.  The 
cheek  bones  are  high,  the  nose  short,  the  nostrils 
wide ; the  eyes  small  and  black ; the  hair  black,  lank 
and  straight.  Their  color  is  brown,  and  varies  not  in 
different  climates. 

The  Malays  have  great  mental  activity,  and  have 
made  some  progress  in  civilization  in  the  islands  of 
Java  and  Sumatra,  but  not  in  Malacca.  They  are 
Mahomedans,  but  the  women  are  not  doomed  to  se- 
clusion in  the  harem.  Their  revenge  is  terrible. 

Such  are  the  Malays  in  their  native  land — a race 
which  has  spread  itself  over  the  Oceanic  isles,  and 
constitutes  one  of  the  five  great  divisions  of  the  human 
family. 


V 


29* 


CHINA 


Though  the  Chinese  have  systematically  excluded 
foreigners  from  their  country,  the  prying  eye  of  curi- 
osity has  discovered  most  of  their  peculiarities,  and 
with  these  the  world  at  large  have  been  made  ac- 
(^uainted*  Every  one  is  familiar  with  their  dress. 


CHINA. 


343 


personal  appearance,  and  aspect  of  their  houses,  from 
the  drawings  on  their  porcelain.  Their  complexion 
is  olive,  their  hair  black  and  straight,  and  their  eyes 
small,  and  like  all  of  the  Mongolian  family,  set 
obliquely  to  the  nose.  The  dress  consists  of  short  full 
trowsers,  a short  shirt,  and  over  all  a loose  flowing 
robe.  The  materials  are  silk  or  cotton,  according  to 
the  condition  of  the  wearer.  The  hair  of  the  men  is 
shaven,  except  behind,  where  it  is  braided  into  two 
long  cues.  A fan  is  a necessary  article  in  the  hand 
of  male  and  female. 

The  dress  of  the  Chinese  dandy  is  composed  of 
crapes  and  silks  of  great  price ; his  feet  are  covered 
with  high-heeled  boots  of  the  most  beautiful  nankin 
satin,  and  his  legs  are  encased  in  gaiters,  richly  em- 
broidered and  reaching  to  the  knee.  Add  to  this,  an 
acorn-shaped  cap  of  the  latest  taste,  an  elegant  pipe, 
richly  ornamented,  in  which  burns  the  purest  tobacco  of 
the  Fokien,  an  English  watch,  a toothpick  suspended 
to  a button  by  a string  of  pearls,  a nankin  fan,  exhaling 
the  perfume  of  the  tcholane — a Chinese  flower — and 
you  will  have  an  exact  idea  of  a fashionable  Chinese. 

This  being,  like  dandies  of  all  times  and  all  coun- 
tries, is  seriously  occupied  with  trifles.  He  belongs 
either  to  the  Snail  Club,  or  the  Cricket  Club.  Like 
the  ancient  Romans,  the  Chinese  train  quails,  which 
are  quarrelsome  birds,  to  be  intrepid  duellists  ; and 
their  combats  form  a source  of  great  amusement.  In 
imitation  of  the  rich,  the  poorer  Chinese  place  at  the 
bottom  of  an  earthen  basin,  two  field  crickets  ; these 
insects  are  excited  and  provoked  until  they  grow 
angry,  attack  each  other,  and  the  narrow  field  of  battle 


344 


CHINA. 


is  soon  strewed  with  their  claws,  antennae  and  corslets, 
the  spectators  seeming  to  experience  the  most  lively 
sensations  of  delight. 

The  general  amusements  of  the  Chinese  are  greatly 
diversified,  and  their  arts  are  numerous  and  ingenious. 
The  government  is  despotic,  and  rules  by  fear.  Pa- 
rents exercise  the  most  unlimited  sway  over  their  chil- 
dren, and  a son  is  a minor  during  the  life  of  the  father. 
The  husband  does  not  see  his  wife  till  she  is  sent  to 
his  harem  in  a palanquin ; if  she  does  not  please  him, 
he  may  send  her  back.  Divorces  are  easily  obtained, 
and  loquacity  is  sufficient  to  cause  a wife  to  be  sent 
hom.e  to  her  parents.  The  chief  beauty  of  a woman  is 
small  feet,  and  these  are  bandaged  from  childhood  to 
ensure  this  desirable  charm. 

The  national  character  of  the  Chinese  has  been  very 
differently  regarded,  and  perhaps  there  has  prevailed 
a disposition  to  rate  it  too  low.  Quietness,  industry, 
order  and  regularity,  qualities  which  a despotic  go- 
vernment seeks  always  to  foster,  seem  to  be  peculiarly 
conspicuous.  A general  good  humor  and  courtesy 
reign  in  their  aspect  and  behavior.  Even  when  they 
jostle  and  come  into  collision  with  each  other,  the 
extrication  is  effected  without  any  of  that  noise  and 
exchange  of  turbulent  and  abusive  language  which  are 
commonly  witnessed  on  such  occasions  in  European 
cities.  Flagrant  crimes  and  open  violations  of  the 
laws  are  by  no  means  common.  The  attachments  of 
kindred  are  exchanged  and  cherished  with  peculiar 
force,  particularly  towards  parents  and  ancestry  in 
general.  The  support  of  the  aged  and  infirm  is  incul- 
cated as  a sacred  duty,  which  appears  to  be  very 


CHINA. 


345 


strictly  fulfilled.  It  is  surely  a phenomenon  in  na- 
tional economy  that  in  a nation  so  eminently  populous, 
and  so  straitened  for  food,  there  should  be  neither 
begging  nor  pauperism.  The  wants  of  the  most  des- 
titute are  relieved  within  the  circle  of  their  family  and 
kindred.  It  is  said  to  be  customary  that  a whole 
family  for  several  generations,  with  all  its  members, 
married  and  unmarried,  live  under  one  roof,  and  with 
only  two  apartments,  one  for  sleeping,  and  the  other 
for  eating,  a fact  which  implies  a great  degree  of  tran- 
quillity and  harmony  of  temper. 

In  regard  to  religion,  China  is  peculiar  in  having 
none  connected  with,  or  supported  by,  the  government. 
No  creed  is  made  a matter  of  state  except  the  abstract 
belief  of  the  existence  of  a supreme  being,  and  of  the 
emperor  as  his  sole  vicegerent  on  earth.  As  to  every 
other  creed  and  rite,  the  people  adopt  any  or  none,  as 
they  may  judge  expedient.  The  learned,  indeed,  gen- 
erally affect  indifference  upon  the  subject,  and  limit 
themselves  to  the  above  simple  belief,  joined  to  a 
superstitious  reverence  for  ancestry,  and  for  the  ancient 
sages  of  the  empire.  The  people,  however,  require 
some  more  sensible  objects  of  worship,  and  the  vacant 
place  has  been  chiefly  occupied  by  the  sect  of  Fo, 
essentially  the  same  with  that  of  Budh,  which  rules 
in  Thibet,  and  has  spread  thence  through  all  the  neigh- 
boring regions  of  Tartary.  It  appears  there  with  its 
doctrine  of  transmigration,  its  numerous  images,  its 
monastic  institutions,  its  bells  and  beads,  its  noisy 
music,  and  its  peculiar  dress  ; all  giving  it  such  a re- 
semblance to  the  Catholic  worship  that  the  mission- 
aries of  the  church  of  Eome  fill  their  journals  with 


346 


CHINA. 


perpetual  lamentations  on  the  impossibility  of  distin- 
guishing between  the  two.  Although  jealous,  in 
general,  of  every  foreign  system,  the  Tartar  dynasties 
have  been  inclined  to  protect  this  religion  of  Tartar 
origin.  The  same  favor  has  not  been  extended  to 
Christianity,  which  has  repeatedly  made  some  pro- 
gress. The  precise  religious  faith  of  the  Chinese  may 
be  gathered  from  the  following  conversation,  recently 
held  by  Dr.  Abeel,  with  persons  in  that  country : 

“ When  you  are  very  ill,  what  do  you  do  ?”  An- 
swer— “ We  pray  to  Budh  for  recovery.” 

“ But  when  you  find  yourselves  fast  failing,  and 
most  likely  to  die,  what  do  you  then  ?”  Ans. — “We 
vow  to  Budh  to  burn  quantities  of  gold  paper,  if  he 
will  restore  us.” 

“ But  when  you  are  certain  you  cannot  recover, 
what  then  ? ” Ans. — “ Why,  then  there  is  nothing  to 
be  done.” 

“ Do  you  never  pray,  after  the  conviction  that  you 
must  die  takes  possession  of  your  minds?”  Ans. — 
“ No,  there  is  then  nothing  to  pray  for.” 

“ But  do  you  never  pray  for  the  future  happiness  of 
your  souls?”  Ans. — “No,  we  know  nothing  of  the 
future  state  of  our  souls.” 

“ Do  you  believe  in  their  immortality  ? ” Ans. — 
“ Yes  ; but  whither  they  wander,  and  what  they  be- 
come, we  cannot  tell — here  all  is  dark,  dark  I” 


JAPAN. 

The  empire  of  Japan  is  little  known,  but  sufficient 
has  been  ascertained  to  show  that  it  is  extremely  popu- 
lous, and  that  civilization  has  reached  a higher  point 
than  among  most  other  Asiatic  nations.  In  person 
and  dress,  the  people  resemble  the  Chinese.  They 
are  cleanly  in  their  habits,  and  profuse  of  civilities  in 
social  intercourse.  Women  are  educated  as  carefully 
as  the  men,  and  enjoy  the  same  liberty  as  in  Christian 
countries. 

The  national  character  of  the  Japanese  is  strongly 
marked,  and  strikingly  contrasted  with  that  which 
generally  prevails  throughout  Asia.  The  people  differ 
most  especially  from  the  Chinese,  their  nearest  neigh- 
bors, notwithstanding  the  resemblance  in  form  and 
lineaments.  Instead  of  that  tame,  quiet,  orderly,  ser- 
vile disposition  which  makes  them  the  prepared  and 
ready  subjects  of  despotism,  the  Japanese  have  a charac- 
ter marked  by  energy,  independence,  and  a lofty  sense 
of  honor.  Although  they  are  said  to  make  good  suh 
jects,  even  to  the  severe  government  under  which  the"} 
live,  they  yet  retain  an  impatience  of  control,  and  a 
force  of  public  opinion,  which  render  it  impossible  for 
any  ruler  wantonly  to  tyrannize  over  them.  Instead 
of  that  mean,  artful,  truckling  disposition  so  general 
among  Asiatics,  their  manners  are  distinguished  by  a 


348 


JAPAN. 


manly  frankness,  and  all  their  proceedings  by  honor 
and  good  faith.  They  are  habitually  kind  and  good 
humored  when  nothing  occurs  to  rouse  their  hostile 
passions,  and  they  carry  the  ties  of  friendship  even  to 
a romantic  height.  To  defend  and  serve  a friend  in 
every  peril,  and  to  meet  torture  and  death  rather  than 
betray  him,  are  considered  duties  which  nothing  can 
abolish.  Their  good  sense  appears  particularly  in 
their  dress,  which  they  seek  only  to  render  substan- 
tial and  suitable,  despising  those  glittering  ornaments 
which  are  so  eagerly  sought  over  the  rest  of  Asia.  Their 
greatest  defect  seems  to  be  a haughty  pride,  which 
runs  through  all  classes,  rising  to  the  highest  pitch 
among  the  great,  and  leading  them  to  display  an  extra- 
vagant pomp  in  their  retinue  and  establishments. 

The  Japanese  also  differ  from  the  Chinese  in  being 
'of  a deeply  religious  character.  There  are  two  reli- 
gions in  Japan,  one  native,  called  the  Sinto,  at  the 
head  of  which  is  the  Dairi : the  other  the  Budh, 
called  here  Budso,  the  same  which  prevails  over  all 
eastern  Asia.  The  Budso  gains  ascendancy  by  ming- 
lling  with  the  original  system  those  attractive  accesso- 
ries which  it  possesses  in  common  with  the  Catholic 
monasteries,  processions,  beads,  drums,  noisy  music, 
and  the  belief  in  Purgatory,  which,  though  condemned 
by  the  pure  and  orthodox  Sintoists,  has  a general  in- 
fluence over  the  people.  The  Sintos  profess  to  believe 
in  a supreme  ruler  of  the  universe,  and  among  their 
number  is  distinguished  a class  of  pure  and  philosophic 
worshippers,  who  entertain  lofty  conceptions  of  the 
deity,  and  cultivate  the  practice  of  virtue  as  the  chie£ 
means  of  gaining  his  favor.  Their  belief,  however, 


JAPAN. 


349 


being  thought  to  resemble  the  Christian,  fell  into  some 
discredit  when  the  latter  became  the  object  of  deadly 
persecution.  The  mass  of  the  nation,  for  whom  such 
tenets  were  far  too  refined,  have  always  been  addicted 
to  gross  and  varied  superstition. 

The  religion  of  the  Japanese  deals  much  in  festivals, 
of  which  they  have  five  great  annual  ones,  besides 
three  smaller  which  are  celebrated  every  month,  rather 
with  visiting,  eating,  drinking  and  somewhat  disor- 
derly mirth  like  the  bacchanals  of  the  ancients,  than 
with  any  observance  that  can  properly  be  called  reli- 
gious. But  pilgrimage  is  the  custom  to  which  they 
adhere  with  the  greatest  zeal,  and  from  which  they 
promise  themselves  the  greatest  benefit,  temporal  and 
spiritual.  No  one  can  be  accounted  at  all  eminent  in 
sanctity,  or  have  any  assurance  of  the  forgiveness  of 
his  sins,  who  has  not  been  once  a year  at  Isje,  the 
grand  temple  of  the  Tensio  Da  Sir,  or  first  of  the 
celestial  spirits.  The  roads  in  summer  are  completely 
choked  with  the  crowds  of  devout  worshippers  on  their 
way  to  the  sacred  shrine.  As  many  have  not  the 
means  of  paying  their  own  way,  a large  proportion 
betake  themselves  to  begging,  and  prostrate  on  the 
ground,  call  out  to  the  rich  passengers,  “ A mite  to 
carry  me  to  Isje  ! ” In  order  to  draw  notice  and  favor, 
they  exhibit  images  of  a many-headed  idol,  and  of 
various  deities  and  demons.  Others  seek  to  gain  ac- 
ceptance by  praying,  singing,  playing  on  fiddles,  gui- 
tars and  other  musical  instruments,  or  by  the  perform- 
ance of  juggling  tricks.  On  meeting  with  success  in 
any  of  these  departments,  they  often  apply  themselves 
wholly  to  the  pursuit ; and  make  a permanent  increase 
XIX. — 30 


350 


JAPAN. 


to  the  crowds  of  beggars  by  which  the  country  is 
infested.  Such  a step  they  consider  themselves  fully 
privileged  to  take  after  they  have  shaved  their  heads 
and  devoted  themselves  to  a particular  religious  order. 
Isje,  the  object  of  all  these  pilgrimages,  presents  nothing 
that  corresponds  to  its  fame,  or  the  magnificence  of 
the  empire.  It  is  rather  held  forth  as  a monument 
of  antique  poverty  and  simplicity.  It  is  a mere  low, 
wooden  hut  with  a flat  thatched  roof,  and  the  interior 
contains  only  a mirror  of  cast  metal  and  some  cut 
paner,  to  both  of  which  a mythological  character  is 
as^^  ed.  In  the  surrounding  plain  are  about  a hun- 
dred chapels  of  equally  poor  materials,  and  so  small 
that  a man  cannot  stand  upright  in  them.  To  each 
of  these  is  attached  ja  priest,  under  one  of  whom  the 
newly  arrived  pilgrim  places  himself.  After  a due 
round  of  prostrations,  supplications,  and  above  all,  of 
gfifts  to  the  amount  of  his  real  or  supposed  ability,  he 
is  gratified  with  an  indulgence,  consisting  of  a small 
oblong  box  filled  with  little  pieces  of  wood,  wrapped 
in  white  paper,  which  is  supposed  to  insure  the  pardon 
of  sins,  and  exemption  from  temporal  evil  for  a year 
to  come  ; at  the  end  of  which  period,  no  zealous  Sin- 
toist  is  satisfied,  unless  he  can  undertake  another  pil- 
grimage. 

The  Budso  temples  are  much  more  magnificent 
than  those  of  the  Sintos.  They  are  usually  placed  on 
elevated  spots,  surrounded  with  beautiful  groves. 


OCEANICA. 


Bread-fruit  tree. 


Under  this  title  are  embraced  the  numerous  islands 
of  the  Pacific,  which  contains  a population  of  perhaps 
20,000,000  of  people.  Among  them,  there  are  two 
leading  races — the  Malays,  who  inhabit  most  of  the 
islands,  and  a peculiar  kind  of  negroes,  who  are 
widely  scattered,  but  are  most  numerous  in  Australia 
and  New  Guinea. 


352 


OCEANICA. 


The  Malay  race  of  Oceanicas  have  a brown  com- 
plexion, long  lank  hair,  thin  beard,  high  cheek  bones, 
large  mouths,  short  noses  and  wide  nostrils.  In  sta- 
ture they  are  short  and  robust.  Some  of  these  people, 
as  those  of  Java,  Sumatra,  and  Celebes,  have  attained 
a secondary  degree  of  civilization,  but  in  general  they 
remain  in  a savage  state.  The  success  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Taheita,  New 
Zealand,  &c.,  gives  assurance  that  most  of  them  may 
be  brought  within  the  fold  of  enlightened  society. 

The  Oceanic  negro  race  are  small,  ill  shaped,  and 
to  the  last  degree  stupid  and  degraded.  They  go 
naked,  and  inhabit  hollow  trees,  caves,  or  slightly  built 
huts.  Their  weapons  are  spears  and  bows  and  arrows  ,* 
force  is  their  only  law ; and  cannibalism  is  but  one  of 
their  savage  customs.  They  paint  their  bodies  with 
horrid  figures,  and  seem  not  disgusted  with  the  stench 
of  the  foetid  fish  oil  they  use.  The  treatment  of 
women  is  in  the  highest  degree  atrocious.  Their 
religion  is  only  a belief  in  omens  and  witchcraft.  All 
attempts  to  wean  them  from  savage  life  have  proved 
abortive. 

The  natives  of  New  Zealand  furnish  a fair  example 
of  the  Oceanic  islanders  of  the  Malay  stock.  They 
are  intelligent,  have  made  some  advancement  in  the 
arts  of  life,  and  to  their  friends  and  each  other  are 
courteous  and  friendly.  But  they  are  subject  to  ter- 
rific impulses  of  passion,  and  still  devour  the  flesh  of 
their  captives,  taken  in  war. 

THE  END, 


